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    Thread: Rev hang... what actually causes it?

    1. 04-06-2011 12:34 AM #1
      So I have done a search on this topic and only found the solution of a bad clutch sensor. (For those that don't know what rev hang is, it in the hanging/increase in rpm when the clutch is pushed in to shift gears).
      My cars cruise didn't work when I got it so I installed a new one and cruise worked afterwards (which if the sensor was no good, it wouldn't).
      I'm sure I'm not the only one with this happening to them, so what are other people doing to solve it?

      Thanks in advance!

    2. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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      04-06-2011 02:46 AM #2
      Just an idea...but try a throttle body alignment.
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    3. Member schwartzmagic's Avatar
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      04-06-2011 10:45 AM #3
      The Uni 830 file I have gives me rev hang. Not too bad, but it is annoying. Its gotten worse lately but that might be because of my exhaust leak

    4. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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      04-06-2011 11:06 AM #4
      Quote Originally Posted by schwartzmagic View Post
      The Uni 830 file I have gives me rev hang. Not too bad, but it is annoying. Its gotten worse lately but that might be because of my exhaust leak
      I hear people blame rev hang on exhaust leaks too. And I noticed that as my exhaust leak got worse, the rev hang got worse. I'm fixing my exhaust leak SOON and so I'll report back if the rev hang goes away. Maybe the engine is getting bad data from the O2 sensors, and as such doesn't run all that great.
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      04-06-2011 11:19 AM #5
      Depends where the exhaust leak is. If it's after the first o2 sensor, it doesn't really matter as much. I've been told the rear o2 is there for nothing other than the OBD2 scan to tell e-check if your cat is working/there.

      Front o2 does the engine management stuff as far as air/fuel.

    6. Member elRey's Avatar
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      04-06-2011 11:37 AM #6
      vagcom block #66. check second(or third) value while pressing/depressing clutch pedal. one of the bits should toggle 0/1

    7. Member herb2k's Avatar
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      04-06-2011 02:58 PM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by elRey View Post
      vagcom block #66. check second(or third) value while pressing/depressing clutch pedal. one of the bits should toggle 0/1
      I had that problem. Replaced clutch switch F36 ($50 part from dealer) and all was good!

    8. 04-06-2011 03:02 PM #8
      My car is all stock and there is definately no exhaust leak. I will have to see what the stealership wants for a TB allignment as I don't have Vagcom (or Ross Tech or whatever its called now).

      I guess my next question, is there somewhere to pick up the Vagcom/Ross tech program for a cheaper price? I see its 249 on Ross techs site.
      Or is there a different program I can get that will allow me to diagnose and adjust the computer?

    9. Member 01TornadoWolf's Avatar
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      04-06-2011 05:26 PM #9
      Quote Originally Posted by elRey View Post
      vagcom block #66. check second(or third) value while pressing/depressing clutch pedal. one of the bits should toggle 0/1
      look at block 66: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/060-069.html

      if u dont have vagcom, check around. i guarantee someone local has one.

      i had nasty rev hang but my cc still worked. block 66 showed clutch signal at ecu wasnt changing. clutch switch was fine, actually turned out to be my ecu!
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    10. Member Three3Se7en's Avatar
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      04-06-2011 06:00 PM #10
      My eurodyne 630 flash has nasty rev hang.
      2.1L, 1000cc, Maestro, CompTurbo 5558, CTS, IE intake, Scat rods, more to come..

    11. 04-12-2011 11:01 AM #11
      So I got lookin a little further... I have 3 PCV hoses that are completely $%@#ed. Ordering some new ones from 034Motorsport this morning. Hopefully this is my problem.

    12. 04-17-2011 10:12 PM #12
      Got all my hoses changed but still no luck gettin rid of the rev hang. I'll be getting chipped by APR in 3 days so I will have to try that throttle body alignment after that and post my findings

    13. 04-26-2011 12:00 PM #13
      Tried the throttle body adaption and still no luck. The hang is definately less noticable with the apr program running, but it is still there.

      Any other ideas?

    14. Member schwartzmagic's Avatar
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      04-26-2011 02:00 PM #14
      Have you tried checking for exhaust leaks or pressure testing your charge pipes? Just a thought......

      I had all kinds of issues because of a boost leak right off the coupler on the compressor housing. My axle was rubbing on the tbolt clamp that tightens the coupler on the compressor exit and eventually got eaten away by the axle, no more clamping = boost leak. The boost leak was throwing off my idle and AFRs.

      Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

    15. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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      04-26-2011 02:43 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by schwartzmagic View Post
      Have you tried checking for exhaust leaks or pressure testing your charge pipes? Just a thought......

      I had all kinds of issues because of a boost leak right off the coupler on the compressor housing. My axle was rubbing on the tbolt clamp that tightens the coupler on the compressor exit and eventually got eaten away by the axle, no more clamping = boost leak. The boost leak was throwing off my idle and AFRs.

      Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
      I second this. I hear people saying on here all the time that they 'checked' and have no leaks. But to know you gotta test. Not just eyeball it or feel around.

      Turbo cars do not like air leaks. They live on the air. They get angry when you take or give air at the wrong times.
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      Welcome to the world of racing! Budgets are ALWAYS exceeded, deadlines are never meet, end-goals never reached, and wives always unhappy... it's all worth it though!

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