maybe not these colors but this look![]()
#1
To start I ordered HPI's 200mm BMW M3 E30 EVO since the Tamiya only came in 190mmthen to keep the car at its period look I ordered Tamiya's 2 piece BBS's
I also decided that I wanted fully working lights so I order an hid look light kit on ebay pretty cheap. I also ordered mirrors with blue directional indicators
Im sure you've seen my chassis if not its a Nitro TC3 factory team version II
The look I'm shooting for is a weekend garage built m3 mix match fenders, trunk ,doors, bumpers kind of like it got wrecked and pieced back together using various donor parts I'll post as the parts come in
#3
#4
I decided to go with colors offered in 1987 on the m3 so I'm gonna go with alpine white on the body and black diamond metallic for the fenders, hood,bumpers and body kit
#5
I just ordered those wheels, but not sure what body to put it on (product description said they're wide, but didn't give any offset or dimensions).
Do you use cans or airbrush?
2.0 for life, 224k miles (unless I'm in the 2.5xt)
Saw the light, now rocking fender gap on RPF1s
#7
Got the body and mirrors today. I painted the hood, driver side fender, and front bumper black, the rest of the body is getting alpine white
#8
oh yeah and the driver side door is also black. I'm going for a crashed, repaired, and unpainted look
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#12
Yeah alot of minor fucc ups but over all im happy cant wait till the beebs (BBS) come in
#13
Mine is pictured here sitting on a HPI RS4 2 carbon chassis and medial pro tires w/ HPI whels:
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#14
you should put some 6mm offset wheels in the front and 9mm offset in the rear let the rims poke out
#15
Here's a little video of how it looks now with rims light working muffler
#18
Nice build! Care to share some info on the LED system you're using, and how you installed the leds?
My Pagani Zonda body is in the mail, getting anxious to build it up!
2.0 for life, 224k miles (unless I'm in the 2.5xt)
Saw the light, now rocking fender gap on RPF1s
#19
its pretty easy I got the led kit from ebay. Make sure the body shell you use comes with light buccets if not you can use a reamer to make holes for the leds but it doesnt look that great when you do it that way. If you run a nitro car I suggest you dont drive the shell that has leds the motor will melt the wires like I found out this weekend.And also if you run nitro stay away from pvc tire's they succ ass on nitro carsas I also found out.the led mirror's I also got on ebay they are dope as hell.I THINK I MIGHT SELL THIS CAR OR TRADE FOR AN ELECTRIC message me. I have enuff parts to build another ntc3 witch I will include in sale or trade
#20
well, you have inspired me to create my own bmw-e30 rc, but based on a tamiya ta02 chassis.
#22
definately...i have a ta02 frp chassis, and that same clear hpi body. black roof, gunmetal paint...pictures to come. going to do the same wheels you started with from tamiya (2 piece)
#24
Ok sorry to revive this thread..but what chasis will this go onto? The HPI m3 body is 200mm and the Tiyama is 190mm. When choosing a Chassis....what do you have to look for to make sure it fits? I was going to get the cheap premade Electric Drift Cars and put the e30 body onto it. Such as this....
http://www.rc-tradingpost.com/greens...repxdrift.html
Will it work...and what about the difference in length as well. Wont that allow it to not fit? Thanks.
#25
It is all about finding a complete setup that works. Some of the chassis are short, some are long. 190mm vs. 200mm is the width of the car. Measurements can be found all over the internet for the various sizes. I got it to work with adding Tamiya 2 piece wheels (wide set in the back and narrow in the front, and then pushing them to the max offset. (by being 2 piece they have two offset options) You can also get 1 piece wheels with different offsets that push the wheels out into the fenders.
#26
I have the Tamiya body on a HPI sprint2 drift. With Tamiya mesh wheels, I think 3mm offset.
The stock staggered wheels fit better though. But they do rub, when running.
No pictures since I have put the grill in.
-Jon
#30
I have a feeling he cut off a little bit off the outside rim of the tire. With a hard drift tire, you could even sand a contour to match the desired amount of stretch.
-Jon
#31
They make different width wheels and different width tires. Just like in real life you can put a smaller width tire on a larger width wheel. I did it on my vw models...if you look closely:
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#32
#33
Actually, the 185mm refers to the track/width of the chassis, and most Tamiya chassis sedans are 185mm, which is more true to scale. When the TA02 chassis came out they offered the TA02Wide chassis which was 190mm, which also was a dimension that HPI latched onto when the RS4 first debut back in 94/95' (It was adjustable between 190mm and 200mm track) . HPI then began making sedan bodies like they had a gun to their heads, from Porsche to BMW and Ford, etc. They were mostly 190mm, which never quite fit Tamiya 185mm track very well. Tamiya has also done slightly wider tracks with the TA04 and TL01 chassis sedans in the late 90's, which bumped them up to be more in line with HPI's 190mm standard. When the Nitro RS4 came out in the late 90's, the stock setup was 200mm, likely because the power to weight realized better handling with the wider track. You could still adjust the track, but by now HPI had a majority of their bodies offered in 200mm so it wasnt necessary. Sorry, I'm old and remember all this stuff and how it has evolved over the last 22 years.