Hall Sensor - 2113 code - RESOLVED

[oldfolkswagen]

HALL SENSOR CODE ---- SOLVED!
************************************************** ******************************
BOTTOM LINE - FOR THOSE WHO DON'T WANT TO READ FURTHER -
I turned my distributor counterclockwise about 10 degrees

************************************************** ******************************

Here is the log from the Ross-Tech Vag-com software.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tuesday,08,March,2011,17:18:44:09955
VCDS Version: Release 10.6.3
Data version: 20101206


Chassis Type: 1H - VW Golf/Vento III
Scan: 01 02 03 08 12 15 25 41 56

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 037-906-258.lbl
Part No: 037 906 258 AA
Component: MOTOR PMC 1
Shop #: 1267358108
VCID: 5AB06938EC99

1 Fault Found:
00515 - Camshaft Position (Hall) Sensor (G40)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus
Readiness: N/A

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------
************************************************** ******************************

First off - here are two very good links that helped me solve my problem.

http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/th...309050&#309050
http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/me...essageID=17808

Pay special attention to where one writer said that a loose TB will cause it.

************************************************** ******************************
I have a 1995 2.0l ABA engine with OBD I (not OBD II.)
It all began with the CEL light coming on occasionally.
Then the check engine light stayed on and it started running like crap.
It got to the point that the engine would start and run for only a few seconds and die.
I could restart as many times as I wanted but it would not stay running.
Everything pointed to a bad hall sensor in the distributor.
I was able to find a new distributor on one of the forums and had it sent to me.
I put it in thinking the problem would be solved... WRONG... no change.
I realized that the new distributor had 4 windows an my old one had only 1 window.
Thinking that it was an easy fix to just change out the the sensor itself,
I took my old distributor apart as was instructed by other related internet searches.
Then I proceeded to take the new one apart. It would not budge -- I smacked it too hard
and broke the cast aluminum housing, thereby rendering the new distributor useless. I did
manage to get the hall sensor out of it and into my old distributor and back together.
Placing the old distributor with the new hall sensor back into the engine should now
eliminate the CEL and I should be up and running again -- WRONG -- still no go.
Then I double checked the Camshaft against the Crankshaft timing marks to see if they
were on the marks - they were dead on -- timing must be OK then -- NO GO - still wouldn't run!
Thinking that I screwed something up with the hall sensor swap,
I found another used distributor and put it in. STILL no go.
Now it began throwing all kinds of codes according to the Vag-com.
I replaced the Crank Sensor -- still NO GO.
I tracked down all the wiring and checked the voltages -- no go.
Well, I thought, it MUST be the ECU itself. The ECU must have bit the dust.
Not wanting to spent the money on a new one - I was able to track down a used one -- thought
that I would chance a used one and see what happens.
Replaced the ECU -- STILL no go.

Now I was at the end of my rope. Thinking back over what I had done to the engine
in the past year, I realized that I had loosened up on the timing belt because it
was too tight. I adjusted it to what seemed to be the right tension. That did not
have an immediate effect on the CEL, but as time went by, the belt continued to loosen up
a bit in the next few thousand miles. That's when my INTERMITTENT CEL started. As the belt
continued to loosen - that in turn started to throw the intermediate shaft out of sync with
the other CAM and CRANK shafts. That's when the CEL came on steady. The intermediate shaft
was too far out of sync with the other two. So rather than take the lower pulley off the
crankshaft so that I could get all the covers off to do the Timing marks over again,
I thought that if I turned the distributor, it would compensate for the intermediate shaft
being out of sync with the other two. It seemed logical that if the ECU was not getting
the signal from the Hall sensor at the right time it would throw a 2113 (hall sensor) code.
With the engine running, I turned the distributor clockwise about 10 degrees -- NO GO -- CEL
light still remained ON. So I turned the distributor back to its original position -- CEL
remained ON. Then I turned it counterclockwise 10 degrees from where it is supposed to be.
BINGO, SHAZAM, JOY, -- CEL light went OFF. PROBLEM RESOLVED! Engine runs GREAT again!

I figured that the intermediate shaft had either jumped a tooth on the belt (which translates to
8.5 degrees) or the belt is just too loose (which I don't think so.) It made sense that the
open window in the dizzy wheel that sends a signal (which would be a drop in voltage) to the
ECU wasn't getting there. So by turning the distributor housing counterclockwise it lined up
the window with the hall sensor, and it would then send the signal to the ECU again. I will have
to eventually take the crank pulley off and the covers that encase the timing belt and align
all the marks again to make it right. Then I will have to put the distributor back to where
it is supposed to be, and not 10 degrees advanced.


************************************************** ******************************

The problem that I found on the various forums, was that people posted their
issues, but never followed up after they fixed the problem. That is what this
post is all about -- I wanted to give you my solution.
I am hoping that my three months of trouble shooting this issue, and the final
results will help someone in the future.

************************************************** ******************************

[VW_MK3_270]

It's going to help me... thanks!
My car is acting like it is misfiring but I think the belt is loose and may have jumped a tooth on the dist. Intermediate shaft.

I dont have the "special tool" that fits the tensioner pulley so that makes it kind of hard to get tight.

[911_fan]

I dont have the "special tool" that fits the tensioner pulley so that makes it kind of hard to get tight.

You don't need a special tool for this. Just use a small pair of needle-nose pliers. Its all I've ever used.

[VW_MK3_270]

You don't need a special tool for this. Just use a small pair of needle-nose pliers. Its all I've ever used.

Cool. Thanks.

[Anony00GT]

HALL SENSOR CODE ---- SOLVED!
************************************************** ******************************
BOTTOM LINE - FOR THOSE WHO DON'T WANT TO READ FURTHER -
I turned my distributor counterclockwise about 10 degrees

************************************************** ******************************

If that worked for you, great. Bad advice though. The proper repair is to remove the timing belt and line the balance shaft up properly. What you did was just a band-aid.

[oldfolkswagen]

What you did was just a band-aid.

I know -- but I've only got about 1/4" clearance to work with after the swap. That's why I put it off.