Thanks again gti_matt...you're the best! Probably won't get at it till the weekend (hopefully).
I should clarify that the reason for using the car's jack to support the suspension is so it takes the tension for you while you undo bolts. On the rear suspension, the shock's travel is the only thing that prevents the trailing arm from fully swinging down to the floor so that's why you want a jack under it to get it back up into position before you remove the shock in the first place.
Last edited by gti_matt; 03-01-2012 at 10:23 AM.
In an attempt to compensate for the 'falling-forward-feeling'...while riding in the rear bench seat/flip-out bed, I've been contemplating lowering the rear of my '03 EVMV ('non-poptop' model). After reading some older posts on the subject however, I'm a bit confused as to the best method of going about it.
Should I invest in new springs and/or different doughnut thickness? Perhaps I'd be better off leaving the Bilsteins shock install and (contemplated) rear lowering mod, to those more qualified? Unfortunately, I'm at a bit of a loss where to take it.
If you feel like you are falling forward in the rear seat, maybe the problem is that the front end has sagged. That's a noted problem with the front torsion bar suspension. Have that checked (it is easy to do). I needed to raise my 2003 and 2001 to stock height and it made a big difference in ride quality as well.
Back to the main topic: just replaced Bilstein HDs with regular Bilsteins on a 2003MVWK. Liked the handling of the HDs, but it just getting too harsh on the roads here. The regular Bilsteins give a more comfortable ride, though I was aware of the winds over the weekend on a 350-mile round trip. Granted, it was very windy here.
On a 2001-2001 that already have a lowered suspension from the factory, new rear springs won't get you much more lowering, so for the bang-for-the-buck I probably wouldn't quite bother (at lesat not with the full H&R Cup Kit which is pricey, often close to $800, but the springs a-la carte were usually about $200). On a 2001-2003 I would go for thinner spring pads instead as a bang-for-the-buck option.
FINALLY got around to installing the rear springs and shocks on our '03 Eurovan MV. Removal & installation (2hrs.) went well (thanks gti_matt). I went with the Bilstein HD shocks/HR Sport springs combo, rather than the "Sport Cup Kit." Gord & Tom at Essex Distributors (http://www.essexdistributors.com/) recommended the "more robust" mono tube HD's, over the twin tube design (included with the cup kit)...YMMV! They also assured me the ride will be firm but, not harsh...here's hoping they're correct! Being a bit of a cheapskate, I decided the $$$ saved on the 'sport shocks', should cover the cost of a 4 wheel alignment, if necessary...I'm not altering the front torsion height, just lowering the rear. I hope to get the front shocks done later today or tomorrow and will follow up once I've put some miles on 'em .
Last edited by euroger; 04-12-2012 at 01:22 AM. Reason: Moved from: "WTB H&R Cup Kit"
Got the front shocks installed in an hour-ish and after a few trips around town, first impressions are mostly favourable...less 'nose-dive' on hard-ish braking and quicker recovery on uneven (frost heaved) surfaces (less bounce). If there is a downside, pavement irregularities (ie. frost cracks) were more noticeable but, aren't something I can't live with. This may also be attributed, at least in part, to a change in rubber...Motomaster SE ('Crappy Tire' house brand) to Michelin "HydroEdge" (225/60R16). Speaking of swapping tires...anyone know the torque spec for stock 16" VW alloys?
They list 133 ft.lbs for "2006-1997"...which seems a bit high to me (for alloys). "1996-1993" is listed as 118 ft.lbs.
Last edited by euroger; 04-15-2012 at 01:55 AM. Reason: correction
FYI: Extra HD is secret code for "we added some compression and rebound to the shock." The heavier the vehicle, the stiffer you need to go on compression and rebound. So, if you have a GLS and it has no extra weight in it, as compared to a fully loaded camper, the stiffer shock would benefit the Camper but not the GLS. So, Extra HD doesn't make the shock any better, it's just utilized for a different application. If you really wanted to, Koni can revalve their shocks to whatever you want as they are rebuildable.
As I've said before, ride quality all on personal preference, just like when it comes to how hot a certain brand of salsa is (what's mild for you might be hot for me). I make a living as suspension engineering and pretty much tried to explain the difference as to what actually happens.
Anyhow, I get what you guys are saying. I don't want anything too stiff. Just something that won't 'dive' as much when breaking / or bounce when hitting dips in the road. The weekender can get bouncy and I figured that since i plan on doing a minimal lift, I might as well throw shocks in too. My wallet isn't too deep though. I'll probably get the regular HD's.
I am on regular HD's in all 4 corners and I like them a lot. Granted, for
I have two other cars (see on left) and the Eurovan serves strictly as stuff hauler. I took it to over 100 out west and it sat on the road like a flatiron on the ironing board. I did drop it by maybe 20-30mm all around though (removed upper perches in the back and wound down the front torsions to match the level).
two turbo quattros, one nano bus