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    Thread: DTA S40 pro tuning -- 16v on ITB's -- please advise--

    1. 04-21-2011 10:50 AM #1
      A while back I acquired a 16v on itb's and am finally working in the direction of completing the project and getting it tuned. It is a stock ABF with Jenvey throttle bodies. The engine does crank and run but is pig rich- 12.5 at idle and 10-11 under load. It appears that it was wired up without an 02 sensor.. Could it work correctly without this??

      Either way, heres the situation: I have access to a dyno and someone who is well versed in stand alone tuning- just not DTA. What is needed to tune DTA? I got no access cable or software. I hear the sofware is available from DTA's website, but, in looking on their website am not sure which to choose.

      Last, but, not least is there a "base map" out there that we could work from or atleast compare to what ive already got??



      Any info will be greatly appreciated-
      Chris

    2. 04-21-2011 05:29 PM #2
      you CAN do it without an o2 sensor, but you can also cut out your own appendix.

    3. 04-21-2011 05:57 PM #3
      Naturally I would think thats why its pig rich... but, if it can be done without im ok without Obviously its not a race car or forced induction, so, if we can tune or program it to where its closer to a good target AFR im cool..

      So, whats needed to communicate with my ECU? Its a S40 pro btw-

      Thanks,
      Chris


    4. 04-21-2011 08:10 PM #5
      Ok, where in the world do i get the appropriate cable?- what does it look like?? As far as sofware goes, its all on their website??

      Thanks-
      Chris

    5. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      04-21-2011 09:48 PM #6
      You can do serial I've done it on S80 but it took no less then 3hrs to find out wtf the pinout for their 15 pin connector was.. and if I knew it off the top of my head I'd post it right here.. and I can't find where I found it...

      You can tune it sans O2 but be sure to disable closed loop in the Lambda settings screen, and make sure you go to a dyno where you can map the ENTIRE rev and load range.
      -Paul
      1995 GTI VR6 - Retired - 12.90@106 R32 power - 12.833@106 12v power
      KPTuned - Official MegaSquirt: Sales - Repair - Installation - Tuning
      MK3 Race Car Partout

    6. 04-23-2011 10:06 AM #7
      ok, wow.. Sounds a little more complicated that I expected.. In years past I have tweaked electromotive, autronic and motec... but.. ive slept since then I was hoping that it was as simple as getting a cable for this plug on my ecu that plugged directly into my laptop... then downloading a bit of software and tuning... What is this plug for then??

      Thanks,
      Chris

    7. 04-23-2011 02:31 PM #8
      http://www.dtafast.co.uk/Downloads/Downloads_Index.htm

      download the one for the s series ecu (its the second one)

      as far as a cable goes you need to find a serial to usb so you can connect to the ecu

    8. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      04-23-2011 03:38 PM #9
      Even with usb to serial you still need to adapt the regular 9 pin to the dta 15 pin.
      -Paul
      1995 GTI VR6 - Retired - 12.90@106 R32 power - 12.833@106 12v power
      KPTuned - Official MegaSquirt: Sales - Repair - Installation - Tuning
      MK3 Race Car Partout

    9. 08-16-2011 09:48 PM #10
      So what did you end up doing with your DTA Stand Alone? Did you remove your appendix yourself? Or did you just pass along the problem to the new owner? How about that sensor, did you disconnect it?

      A proprietary 15pin/bus cable from DTA.uk would have been the first thing you would have needed. Then downloading the S Series Manual, the appropriate firmware, and the S40 software. Once you had these items on your laptop, you could then attempt to hook up your laptop to the ECU, and a dyno, and begin reading how to recalibrate the injectors and timing on the engine.

      Rather than attempt to do this myself, I am trying to locate a DTA/tech that DTA has referred to me, so that someone more knowledgeable can read the hyroglifics and address the starting/stalling/and backfiring issues.

    10. 08-29-2011 06:59 PM #11
      I did nothing with the DTA as I found a MAJOR vacuum leak that was making the car act the way that it was... After I repaired that, I drove the truck a few hundred miles without a problem..

      Whats this talk about removing my appendix myself?? makes no sense to me..

      If you'll ask around here, I do have a reputation for restoring nice stuff, and making alot of power dependably. I also have never "stiffed" anyone...

      If youd like some reference, click here-
      http://http://forums.vwvortex.com/sh...t=Chris+Barnes

      As for you- who knows??
      Last edited by Chris Barnes; 08-29-2011 at 07:07 PM.

    11. 09-29-2012 03:29 PM #12
      since you fixed the vacum leak have you had any other issues?

      how is the 16v running?

      did you end up making it a closed look with an wideband controller?

    12. 10-01-2012 10:10 AM #13
      After I fixed the vacuum leak, I drove the truck several hundred miles and then sold it on ebay.

      From what I understand, He later added an 02 sensor and dyno tuned the truck again. Its a stock ABF with throttle bodies and he got 147.7hp on a dyno dynamics dyno-

      Chris

    13. 10-01-2012 11:58 AM #14
      What size is that topfill radiator, looks like it would solve my fitment issues...

    14. 10-01-2012 09:31 PM #15
      im not sure what the size is, but, its the same as whats in my 80 scirocco from the factory..

    15. Member
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      02-25-2013 01:06 PM #16
      Anyone on here own this truck now?

    16. 03-03-2013 04:56 PM #17
      That is a good question..

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