i think i saw this car at h20 this year?
Loving all the new tricks and progress
VW's the older the better
http://www.4everkustoms.com/ <=THE BEST
BUY MY PARTS MKII MOSTLY
to start. i LOVE this thread, i'm in school now training to become a machinist and this thread is so inspirational! keep up the great work!
and about the bushings, i dunno how well it would really work to have solid ones, i remember when someone posted a video of the original 1985 introduction of the mk2 and they explained that the bushings were designed to help corning by letting the beam kinda move and go with the front.
i'll try and find and mark the vid.
love this thing! get a front valence and its sex! the front looks angry!
If you don't get that, the alternator is faulty.
If that voltage is good, then measure across these points:
- Between the + wire and the + post on battery.
- Between alternator body and - post on battery.
Both should be less than 0.05V (
2002 GTI 1.8t 249,000+ miles
VCDS 14.10.2 with KEY-USB interface
at startup, after jumping it, its getting 14.02 at the alternator and 13.85 at the battery.
after idling for 15 minutes the engine is up to 210* f. and im getting 13.68 at the alternator and 13.31 at the battery.
this shows that my in dash voltmeter is pretty accurate. so after a 20 minute drive it should be making around 12.5 at the battery which Im guessing is around 12.9 at the alternator.
All this is with lights and accesories turned off.
.051 between - post and main ground at tranny bell housing. .01 between alt. casing and maing ground at bell housing.
I have found a crimp connector in the main + wire between the atl and battery + post. It didnt seem to have much effect on the voltage drop though.
Ill either shorten it to get rid of it or solder and shrinkwrap it.
From those numpers above it would lead me to believe there is a fault in the positive side wiring, but it confuses me why it would put out less and less power the farther I drove. Maybe the wires getting hot increases resistance?