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    Thread: 4 door golf, my first VW

    1. Member 4cedboost's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 16th, 2006
      Location
      Poland, Ohio
      Posts
      281
      Vehicles
      2008 FSI GTI (daily) 1991 GTI (work in progress)
      10-27-2011 03:00 PM #126
      i think i saw this car at h20 this year?

    2. 10-27-2011 09:17 PM #127
      No I wish I could have gone to H20. This is a down south car though, so I did make it to SoWo.

    3. Member
      Join Date
      Mar 13th, 2011
      Location
      Maine
      Posts
      209
      Vehicles
      MK4 Jetta 1.8t, MK2 GTI G60, MK1 Cabriolet 1.6na diesel
      10-27-2011 10:19 PM #128
      [/QUOTE]

      Did you leave those rubber patches on the road too?
      Good stuff man, can't wait to see more

    4. 10-29-2011 04:33 PM #129
      Its very possible I had something to do with the rubber on the road.

    5. 11-03-2011 08:06 AM #130
      So when I start the car cold and drive it I get around 13.2 volts for the first few miles. Once its up to temperature I am only getting 12.8 volts.

      Is there any test I can do to see if the alternator is going out?

    6. Member
      Join Date
      Feb 26th, 2011
      Location
      Pasadena, Tx
      Posts
      168
      Vehicles
      1991 Golf GL, 2014 Jetta SE (TSI)
      11-03-2011 10:12 AM #131
      Quote Originally Posted by Truckinduc View Post
      This picture cracks me up


      This made my day, man. This is seriously awesome.

    7. 11-03-2011 04:23 PM #132
      Thanks. most people dont notice it.

    8. 11-03-2011 04:24 PM #133
      started on my manifold. Got the first runner mocked up. Its the easiest one. the others will be much curvier.




    9. Member sin bar's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 12th, 2008
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      sin bar ga
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      18,689
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      wagoon.
      11-04-2011 12:48 AM #134
      colors are all over the place, but i'm likin' it.

      reshaping the control arms to clear the wheels?

      edit: the gerund, dammit!

    10. 11-07-2011 06:00 PM #135
      Ill be building new control arms at some point with different attachment points to the subframe to change the geometry more.

      tublar chromoly control arms.

    11. 11-07-2011 06:02 PM #136
      Picked up a gti rear beam with the built in sway bar. Ill be stiffining it up some more.


    12. Member GVZBORA's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 13th, 2008
      Location
      Colorado Springs CO
      Posts
      1,043
      Vehicles
      02 Bettle Turbo S. 00 Jetta VR6(Sold)
      11-07-2011 07:05 PM #137
      Quote Originally Posted by Truckinduc View Post
      Picked up a gti rear beam with the built in sway bar. Ill be stiffining it up some more.

      keep it up
      Quote Originally Posted by boostd12v View Post
      yeah I bet you would love to write a paper on how your a bish
      VRsociety member #122
      02 Beetle Turbo S, 3" catless downpipe, stock everything else.

    13. Member Mean 'n Green86's Avatar
      Join Date
      Dec 16th, 2006
      Location
      mount joy PA
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      2,838
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      07 Passat Wagon
      11-07-2011 10:32 PM #138
      Loving all the new tricks and progress
      VW's the older the better
      http://www.4everkustoms.com/ <=THE BEST
      BUY MY PARTS MKII MOSTLY
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...7#post82154097

    14. 11-10-2011 07:59 AM #139
      Here it the first of the beam modifications. Now just to weld it in.


    15. 11-10-2011 08:01 AM #140
      Anyone run solid bushings in the beams instead of the rubber deals? If I can figure out whats going on with them Id like to make some. And I dont mean the little red poly inserts. Im talking a full out replacement for the entire piece.

    16. 11-10-2011 08:33 AM #141
      Well it looks as though bushings are a bad idea in the beam. Hmm maybe Ill have to make some with some spherical bearings.

    17. 11-10-2011 08:34 AM #142
      to start. i LOVE this thread, i'm in school now training to become a machinist and this thread is so inspirational! keep up the great work!

      and about the bushings, i dunno how well it would really work to have solid ones, i remember when someone posted a video of the original 1985 introduction of the mk2 and they explained that the bushings were designed to help corning by letting the beam kinda move and go with the front.

      i'll try and find and mark the vid.

      love this thing! get a front valence and its sex! the front looks angry!

    18. 11-10-2011 08:44 AM #143
      Quote Originally Posted by chrisgilmour View Post
      to start. i LOVE this thread, i'm in school now training to become a machinist and this thread is so inspirational! keep up the great work!

      and about the bushings, i dunno how well it would really work to have solid ones, i remember when someone posted a video of the original 1985 introduction of the mk2 and they explained that the bushings were designed to help corning by letting the beam kinda move and go with the front.

      i'll try and find and mark the vid.

      love this thing! get a front valence and its sex! the front looks angry!
      Thank you. I plan on building full suspensions one day when I understand them a little better.

      I straightened my sheetmetal out under the bumper. I may paint it today if the rain lets up.


    19. Member BassNotes's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 15th, 2005
      Location
      Costa Mesa, Calif., USA
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      3,241
      Vehicles
      2002 VW GTI 1.8t
      11-11-2011 07:33 PM #145
      Quote Originally Posted by Truckinduc View Post
      So when I start the car cold and drive it I get around 13.2 volts for the first few miles. Once its up to temperature I am only getting 12.8 volts.

      Is there any test I can do to see if the alternator is going out?
      Yes. Take a DC digital voltmeter. With the engine running put the negative probe on the alternator body and pierce the point of the positive probe through the + wire coming out of the alternator. You should get about 14.0 V, ±0.2V or so.

      If you don't get that, the alternator is faulty.

      If that voltage is good, then measure across these points:

      • Between the + wire and the + post on battery.
      • Between alternator body and - post on battery.


      Both should be less than 0.05V (
      Bob Lee
      2002 GTI 1.8t 249,000+ miles
      VCDS 14.10.2 with KEY-USB interface

    20. 11-12-2011 10:46 AM #146
      at startup, after jumping it, its getting 14.02 at the alternator and 13.85 at the battery.

      after idling for 15 minutes the engine is up to 210* f. and im getting 13.68 at the alternator and 13.31 at the battery.

      this shows that my in dash voltmeter is pretty accurate. so after a 20 minute drive it should be making around 12.5 at the battery which Im guessing is around 12.9 at the alternator.

      All this is with lights and accesories turned off.

    21. 11-12-2011 10:51 AM #147
      .16 between the alternator + and + post. .058 between alternator housing and - post.

    22. 11-12-2011 11:18 AM #148
      .051 between - post and main ground at tranny bell housing. .01 between alt. casing and maing ground at bell housing.


      I have found a crimp connector in the main + wire between the atl and battery + post. It didnt seem to have much effect on the voltage drop though.


      Ill either shorten it to get rid of it or solder and shrinkwrap it.

      From those numpers above it would lead me to believe there is a fault in the positive side wiring, but it confuses me why it would put out less and less power the farther I drove. Maybe the wires getting hot increases resistance?

    23. 11-12-2011 02:28 PM #149
      13.53 at alt after long drive. 12.98 at battery. Im going to replace the alt. + lead to the battery and see what happens. Its causing the most voltage drop.

      also had a little mishap on the drive.

    24. 11-12-2011 02:28 PM #150
      said mishap


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