#386
I definitely think there would be a way to use just the blower segment, chop it down a bit, and put a small radiator in-line as your heater core (seal it all up) and route your heat w/ brake ducting (2") to the stock locations.
Haven't you already shaved the cut-out for the heatercore anyway? Thought I saw it smoothed in pics.
USMC Graduated 1st RTBN C.CO. PLT 1028
#388
Thanks guys. I guess Ill be pulling out my dash this weekend to look it all over.
Still have a big list of things to do before So Wo.
Re do the exhaust. It sounds great but Is way too loud. Right now im running a Ducati carbon fiber 2" straight through muffler. Ill be putting another identical muffler in line and a side exit to try to cut down on in cabin fumes.
figure out what the hell im going to do about my intake - air filtration. Ive got some 2.125" silicone tubing im going to use as runners between the carbs and one of these filters that will be under the windshield.
Ive still got to hook up my in dash gauges. All thats hooked up right now is the oil pressure idiot light.
I have to finish my air oil seperator. Basically just some welding but I have to find the time to do it.
OH YA ive still got to make a fan shroud for thr radiator. I could throw the stock one back in But I think its Hideous. Ill make an aluminum one with a more modern fan.
#389
forgot to mention, IM LOOKING FOR MKIII SPINDLES.
Im looking for some spindles I can made caliper adaptors for my 11.3" brakes. Id really like to have that done for sowo also, but im just dreaming at this point.
11.3" powerslot rotors and hawk pads are on their way to my place.
#390
Are you staying 4x100? 280mm will be easier if so (11"). Or you can just drill your own bolt patterns I bet, but that's out of my realm..
USMC Graduated 1st RTBN C.CO. PLT 1028
#392
Is that the largest you can stuff under those wheels? 12.3" TT/R32 brakes aren't hard to get in there if already at 11.3". I do recall you saying something about the max rotor size due to what calipers you're using (from an xterra?).
Anyhow, love the work.
It's inspired me to stick w/ 17's and hack and chop until it sits where it should, and rides how it ought to.![]()
USMC Graduated 1st RTBN C.CO. PLT 1028
#393
Yes 11.3 is the biggest that will fit in my wheels. Some 15's wont even fit that large of a rotor. My calipers are huge too, but they will fit. Ive got that all worked out. My only problem is I need some mk 3 spindles.
Last edited by Truckinduc; 04-28-2012 at 01:13 PM.
#394
USMC Graduated 1st RTBN C.CO. PLT 1028
#396
Hover car
chopping up the intake manifold to make the carbs fit better
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#398
When i first saw you building the carb set up i had a feeling it wasn't gonna fit but i figured you had it worked out
Its looking great![]()
#399
#400
manifold for about the 30th time.
I made a solid wooden front motor mount. But I decided aluminum would be better.
carbs are angled up a little more now. Back of motor is dropped down to .375" above stock and the front of the motor is a little lower than stock.
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#401
cooking on some high temp paint
and wrapping, what a ****ty job.
then drying it out in prep for more high temp paint.
looks like I wont be driving it to work tomorrow.
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#402
All those skills and your car is sitting on cemented blocks? Haha
MY BUILD THREAD http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...nt-VW&highligw
http://www.4everkustoms.com/ <=THE BEST
#403
header is cooked and done.
Anyone want an aluminum rabbit head? Ive got a couple extra laying around. I need to fund some MKIII spindles.
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#404
Bob Lee
2002 GTI 1.8t 231,000+ miles
VCDS 11.11.5 with KEY-USB interface
#405
Positive you don't wanna make me some drop plates?
Local company is being a pain in the arse to order from...
USMC Graduated 1st RTBN C.CO. PLT 1028
#406
#407
#408
This is totally badass!!!!!!
I want the rabbit head. Could it be made into a shift knob?
Also, could I get you to make me a shift lever extension rod?
#409
#410
I could weld two of them back to back and make an extension rod yes.
Ah got ya. Its not on cinder blocks. The front is on plastic ramps with wooden blocks and the rear is on an aluminum stand. Its just to lift the car up so i dont have to hurt my bad back by bending over to work on the engine. Not getting under the car.
#411
I think the rabbit head is fine as is. Is it thick enough for tapping?
How much for that and a 6 inch extension with a slight bend to bring it closer to me?
#412
#413
Just measured my extra rear beam. Its about an inch wider than my stock one. Its braced up more too. Not sure what its out of.
#414
offtopic, but you live in a nice area.
#415
MY BUILD THREAD http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...nt-VW&highligw
http://www.4everkustoms.com/ <=THE BEST
#416
Not sure if it's what you have but the mk3 rear beam is about an inch wider than a mk2 beam
#417
#418
here is the back side of the rabbit head. Its a mold for making chocolate bunnys. Ive got a few of them.
replacing all my worn out shifter stuff. It took longer than I expected.
Header is back on for hopefully the last time. For a while at least.
Oh and here are my drop plates version three. They have 0 front to rear offset, unlike my other ones, and provide a 3.625" drop. They also have 1.5 degrees of negative camber built in. Im trying to avoid any type of shims. Toe should be 0 at the ride height I want. If I like them then Ill build a brace into the back of them to stop any flexing that might occur.
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#419
Awesome. I might still want version 1.. Just ordered 1552's last set of B&G's, so we'll see how low those go first. I definitely don't need plates to drop the rear nearly 4" though; roughly 1/2 that would be ideal.
I wanna see what you do in the front end for modifying the subframe pick-up points and control arms.
USMC Graduated 1st RTBN C.CO. PLT 1028
#420
It looks as though i have a set of mk III knuckles headed my way. Now i just need to buy a set of wheel bearings. I just put brand new bearings in my stock knuckles. Oh well. Ive got some tricks up my sleeve for the big brake setup. Lets just say i have not seen it done before on one of these cars. It should cut down on some unsprung weight and move the pole moment rearward slighly, both good things.