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    VWVortex


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    Thread: 4 door golf, my first VW

    1. 04-29-2012 10:40 PM #401
      cooking on some high temp paint



      and wrapping, what a ****ty job.



      then drying it out in prep for more high temp paint.



      looks like I wont be driving it to work tomorrow.


    2. Member Mean 'n Green86's Avatar
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      04-30-2012 07:20 AM #402
      All those skills and your car is sitting on cemented blocks? Haha
      VW's the older the better
      http://www.4everkustoms.com/ <=THE BEST
      BUY MY PARTS MKII MOSTLY
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    3. 04-30-2012 12:57 PM #403
      header is cooked and done.



      Anyone want an aluminum rabbit head? Ive got a couple extra laying around. I need to fund some MKIII spindles.




    4. Member BassNotes's Avatar
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      04-30-2012 06:11 PM #404
      Quote Originally Posted by Mean 'n Green86 View Post
      All those skills and your car is sitting on cemented blocks?
      That's what came to my mind too.
      Bob Lee
      2002 GTI 1.8t 250,000+ miles
      VCDS 15.7.0 with KEY-USB interface

    5. Member
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      04-30-2012 06:55 PM #405
      Positive you don't wanna make me some drop plates?

      Local company is being a pain in the arse to order from...

    6. 04-30-2012 07:37 PM #406
      Quote Originally Posted by Project_2501 View Post
      Positive you don't wanna make me some drop plates?

      Local company is being a pain in the arse to order from...
      Want the ones that are on the car now? Im about to change Them out for some other ones that I made.

    7. 04-30-2012 07:39 PM #407
      Quote Originally Posted by Mean 'n Green86 View Post
      All those skills and your car is sitting on cemented blocks? Haha
      Quote Originally Posted by BassNotes View Post
      That's what came to my mind too.
      I dont get it. Care to explain?

    8. Member oopseyesharted's Avatar
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      04-30-2012 09:05 PM #408
      This is totally badass!!!!!!
      I want the rabbit head. Could it be made into a shift knob?

      Also, could I get you to make me a shift lever extension rod?

    9. Member oopseyesharted's Avatar
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      04-30-2012 09:06 PM #409
      Quote Originally Posted by Truckinduc View Post
      I dont get it. Care to explain?
      They are question your car being on cinder blocks......they tend to be a bit crumbly...lol

    10. 04-30-2012 09:38 PM #410
      Quote Originally Posted by oopseyesharted View Post
      This is totally badass!!!!!!
      I want the rabbit head. Could it be made into a shift knob?

      Also, could I get you to make me a shift lever extension rod?
      I could weld two of them back to back and make an extension rod yes.

      Quote Originally Posted by oopseyesharted View Post
      They are question your car being on cinder blocks......they tend to be a bit crumbly...lol
      Ah got ya. Its not on cinder blocks. The front is on plastic ramps with wooden blocks and the rear is on an aluminum stand. Its just to lift the car up so i dont have to hurt my bad back by bending over to work on the engine. Not getting under the car.

    11. Member oopseyesharted's Avatar
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      04-30-2012 10:37 PM #411
      I think the rabbit head is fine as is. Is it thick enough for tapping?
      How much for that and a 6 inch extension with a slight bend to bring it closer to me?

    12. 05-01-2012 12:46 AM #412
      Quote Originally Posted by oopseyesharted View Post
      I think the rabbit head is fine as is. Is it thick enough for tapping?
      How much for that and a 6 inch extension with a slight bend to bring it closer to me?
      Ill take a picture of the back side for you. Its got two threaded studs in the back. I still think two welded back to back polished would be awesome. Ill let you know about the rod.

    13. 05-01-2012 12:49 AM #413
      Just measured my extra rear beam. Its about an inch wider than my stock one. Its braced up more too. Not sure what its out of.

    14. 05-01-2012 03:11 AM #414
      offtopic, but you live in a nice area.
      Girls and Money and New Clothes

      Quote Originally Posted by C4 A6 View Post
      Keep in mind the noise you hear in an S2000 is the ENGINE, and not the exhaust note that VR6 people jizz over. I'd rather have a nice sounding engine than a nice sounding exhaust.

    15. Member Mean 'n Green86's Avatar
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      05-01-2012 08:28 AM #415
      Quote Originally Posted by Truckinduc View Post
      I could weld two of them back to back and make an extension rod yes.



      Ah got ya. Its not on cinder blocks. The front is on plastic ramps with wooden blocks and the rear is on an aluminum stand. Its just to lift the car up so i dont have to hurt my bad back by bending over to work on the engine. Not getting under the car.
      Ok good. I love this car and your work. I don't want you to get hurt.
      VW's the older the better
      http://www.4everkustoms.com/ <=THE BEST
      BUY MY PARTS MKII MOSTLY
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...7#post82154097

    16. Member andrewmilie's Avatar
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      05-01-2012 12:28 PM #416
      Not sure if it's what you have but the mk3 rear beam is about an inch wider than a mk2 beam

    17. 05-01-2012 01:17 PM #417
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewmilie View Post
      Not sure if it's what you have but the mk3 rear beam is about an inch wider than a mk2 beam
      Ya thats what ive always heard. The guy I got it from really thinks its out of a mk II GLI or GTI. Its got quite a bit more bracing than my beam, which is a base model car, and its got a built in swaybar. I need to look at some MK III beams.

    18. 05-01-2012 01:22 PM #418
      here is the back side of the rabbit head. Its a mold for making chocolate bunnys. Ive got a few of them.



      replacing all my worn out shifter stuff. It took longer than I expected.



      Header is back on for hopefully the last time. For a while at least.



      Oh and here are my drop plates version three. They have 0 front to rear offset, unlike my other ones, and provide a 3.625" drop. They also have 1.5 degrees of negative camber built in. Im trying to avoid any type of shims. Toe should be 0 at the ride height I want. If I like them then Ill build a brace into the back of them to stop any flexing that might occur.


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      05-01-2012 01:46 PM #419
      Awesome. I might still want version 1.. Just ordered 1552's last set of B&G's, so we'll see how low those go first. I definitely don't need plates to drop the rear nearly 4" though; roughly 1/2 that would be ideal.

      I wanna see what you do in the front end for modifying the subframe pick-up points and control arms.

    20. 05-01-2012 04:26 PM #420
      It looks as though i have a set of mk III knuckles headed my way. Now i just need to buy a set of wheel bearings. I just put brand new bearings in my stock knuckles. Oh well. Ive got some tricks up my sleeve for the big brake setup. Lets just say i have not seen it done before on one of these cars. It should cut down on some unsprung weight and move the pole moment rearward slighly, both good things.

    21. 05-01-2012 04:31 PM #421
      Quote Originally Posted by Project_2501 View Post
      Awesome. I might still want version 1.. Just ordered 1552's last set of B&G's, so we'll see how low those go first. I definitely don't need plates to drop the rear nearly 4" though; roughly 1/2 that would be ideal.

      I wanna see what you do in the front end for modifying the subframe pick-up points and control arms.
      Well there will be two different versions of the front end. First one will have the stock pick up points with custom adjustable control arms. The arms will be adjustable for track width and castor. The ball joints on the mkIII knuckles will be moved out as far as possible to alter my scrub radius.

      The second setup will be later down the road. It will include a tubular subframe and very similar control arms. It will also be adjustable for antidive.

    22. Member
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      05-01-2012 05:27 PM #422
      Castor adjustment would change where the wheel sits in the well, if adjusted at the bottom, correct?

      If you need dimensions for a tubular subframe, I believe USRT has drafts / plans for one. Another item I'd love to have made; even just to use OEM control arms in, would be very cool.

    23. Member oopseyesharted's Avatar
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      05-01-2012 06:09 PM #423
      Quote Originally Posted by Truckinduc View Post
      Ill take a picture of the back side for you. Its got two threaded studs in the back. I still think two welded back to back polished would be awesome. Ill let you know about the rod.
      Ok....2 back to back then with the extension. How much sir?

    24. 05-01-2012 06:53 PM #424
      Quote Originally Posted by oopseyesharted View Post
      Ok....2 back to back then with the extension. How much sir?
      55$ shipped? How does that sound?

    25. 05-01-2012 06:55 PM #425
      Quote Originally Posted by Project_2501 View Post
      Castor adjustment would change where the wheel sits in the well, if adjusted at the bottom, correct?

      If you need dimensions for a tubular subframe, I believe USRT has drafts / plans for one. Another item I'd love to have made; even just to use OEM control arms in, would be very cool.


      Correct. Adjusting it in the top also effects how it sits in the wheel well, its just alot less movement.

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