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    Thread: How to modify Hella projectors to eliminate E-code upward splash.

    1. Member Daemon42's Avatar
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      09-29-2002 05:02 AM #1
      Well, I promised I'd show how this works.
      The full instructions with detailed photos can be found here.
      http://www.houseofthud.com/cartech/hids
      Do check it out.
      Here are some snippets..

      That's the Hella projector shield. (screwhole already drilled)

      That is the new brass shield.

      mounted.
      Plus alternate orientation (shown above) for a modified splash. I like this one best and will probably use.

      Before and after. (Note this is with a 55 watt halogen bulb. The HID kit will be here next week)


      The modified orientation..

      Took me only 20 minutes to make both shields.. and a couple hours to test
      and document everything. Also did a test where I painted the new shield black
      to eliminate stray reflections, and found absolutely zero difference in the light
      pattern between that and the unpainted one. To be absolutely sure I
      took photos of each pattern at F4.4 1/15th 1/30th and 1/60th with
      all different configurations so I could look for any stray light, and found nothing.
      The area above the cutoff was virtually identical in all of them.
      The final shields are thus unpainted.
      I'll try to stick the HIDs into the same housing and add some photos of it
      when they get here next week.
      The brass sheet cost about $2, and 4 screws were $0.07/each,
      Need tin snips, a drill and a screwdriver. My hella projector
      housing is held together with 3 philips screws. The shield and lens
      assemble is held to the rear reflector with 4 philips screws.
      ian




      [Modified by Daemon42, 2:35 AM 10-15-2002]

    2. 09-29-2002 06:30 AM #2
      Thanks for the great info [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    3. 09-29-2002 12:40 PM #3
      That's sweet. One question though. You showed how hot it was in there with a halogen. Does an HID run hotter? Will the housing support an HID? I want to do this, but I don't want to melt stuff. And also, what lights are those projectors in? Looks great.

    4. Member CorradoCody's Avatar
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      09-29-2002 12:43 PM #4
      I'll be doing mine like this in a few weeks. Great write up and pictures. Helped me out a lot.
      CC

    5. 09-29-2002 12:44 PM #5
      What's so bad about this upward splash? I thought e-codes had a much tighter beam pattern than DOT approved housings.

    6. 09-29-2002 01:20 PM #6
      Looks great. I would run them with the shield in the position in the 3rd picture.
      quote:
      What's so bad about this upward splash? I thought e-codes had a much tighter beam pattern than DOT approved housings.
      The upwards splash is not too bad with halogen light, but when you put 3x the light in there, the glare can be awful for other traffic. The 3rd picture look just like an OEM HID beam pattern.

    7. Member Daemon42's Avatar
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      09-29-2002 02:36 PM #7
      quote:
      That's sweet. One question though. You showed how hot it was in there with a halogen. Does an HID run hotter? Will the housing support an HID? I want to do this, but I don't want to melt stuff. And also, what lights are those projectors in? Looks great.
      Well, the H1 Halogens are 55 watts and the HIDs are only 35 watts. I think the Halogens are generating more heat
      and less light, while the HIDs generate more light and less heat. I don't think there'll be a problem.
      Those lights are my Projektzwo dual rounds.

      They have Hella projector lows and reflector highs just like the normal Hella dual rounds,
      but the low beams also have the city lights at the top, and a funy little extra reflector
      and opening on the bottom which casts light down on the ground close.

      ian


      [Modified by Daemon42, 12:37 PM 9-29-2002]

    8. 09-29-2002 05:59 PM #8
      Niiiiiiceeeee!!! Now get some pics with the HID´s installed [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    9. Geriatric Member GS Audio's Avatar
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      09-29-2002 06:17 PM #9
      Excellent details and pics! I may have to do this......for my ....uhm.....nevermind. You guys will see soon!

      GS-Photography.com
      Photography for all occasions - Formal Events, Corporate Events, School Sport Events
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    10. 09-29-2002 06:43 PM #10
      quote:
      Excellent details and pics! I may have to do this......for my ....uhm.....nevermind. You guys will see soon!
      For your HDR projectors that you keep bumping everyday in the classifieds

    11. Geriatric Member GS Audio's Avatar
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      09-29-2002 07:52 PM #11
      quote:
      For your HDR projectors that you keep bumping everyday in the classifieds
      I have 4 projectors, not just 2. 2 in the dual rounds, 2 EXTRA NEW ones for sale!

      GS-Photography.com
      Photography for all occasions - Formal Events, Corporate Events, School Sport Events
      SUPPORT THE ORIGINATORS ----> http://www.parts4vws.com/

    12. 09-29-2002 09:22 PM #12
      BTW if you all want to paint the part you should use high temp engine enamel. 1000 degrees handling.

    13. Member Daemon42's Avatar
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      09-29-2002 10:02 PM #13
      quote:
      BTW if you all want to paint the part you should use high temp engine enamel. 1000 degrees handling.
      Ya, I noticed that the paint I experimented with got soft in that kind of heat.
      However, I've gone over the dozens of photos I took in control conditions, of the
      original shield, and the new one both with and without black paint, and I can't
      find any stray reflections so I'm not worried about it yet.
      I'll check it again when the HIDs are in.
      ian

    14. Member CorradoCody's Avatar
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      09-30-2002 02:59 AM #14
      I'll definately be looking forward to seeing those pics. Glad to see some creative people here. Luckily I won't have to buy the dual xenon projectors I thought I had to get to eliminate the right flare these lights produce. Is there a light leveling system you know of that we can use with the HDR's? That's the next mod for the lights I want to do.
      CC

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      09-30-2002 08:07 AM #15
      Ian,
      The only concern I have with those pics is the "big ball of light" against the garage door...
      Just wondering if it will "smooth out" a bit or not.
      I should take a snippet of my HID's in those E46 projectors and show how much smoother a pattern it puts out.
      The cutoff is awesome compared to the OEM HDR cutoff-perfect for HID. I'm just wondering if the "splotchiness" will be be there with HID???
      Good work dude!!!
      Later,

    16. Geriatric Member GS Audio's Avatar
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      09-30-2002 11:19 AM #16
      Yeah....you haven't shown us the BMW HID's you did.....better post pics soon!!!

      GS-Photography.com
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    17. Member Daemon42's Avatar
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      09-30-2002 12:32 PM #17
      quote:
      Ian,
      The only concern I have with those pics is the "big ball of light" against the garage door...

      Note those pictures were not taken against a garage door. It's the
      projector alone (sans outter housing) shining against a door inside my house from only about
      4 feet away, thus the hot spot. It's also only one light so there's no fill from the
      second. And ultimately, I don't mind if it puts down most of the light forward
      like that as long the cutoff is clean. What shows as a hot spot at 4 feet here will fill
      the lane projected 50-100 feet down the road.
      ian


    18. Global CSI Moderator
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      10-01-2002 11:19 AM #18
      quote:
      Ian,
      The only concern I have with those pics is the "big ball of light" against the garage door...
      Note those pictures were not taken against a garage door. It's the
      projector alone (sans outter housing) shining against a door inside my house from only about
      4 feet away, thus the hot spot. It's also only one light so there's no fill from the
      second. And ultimately, I don't mind if it puts down most of the light forward
      like that as long the cutoff is clean. What shows as a hot spot at 4 feet here will fill
      the lane projected 50-100 feet down the road.
      ian

      Oh, cool. It looked so much like a garage door. Sorry Ian.
      I understand now. That explains why the big ball of light was there on the door. It does show the modified cutoff which is good.
      These are still a bit different projectors than the HDR's-but just barely. I think we talked about the small opening at the bottom of them.
      And, to whomever asked, I will get pics up within a few weeks of my car with both Ultinons and OEM 4100K setups in my Bimmer's against a garage door and up front.
      I think I'll also try to get one 4100K on the left and a 6000K on the right.
      Anyway, looks good Ian...and def an improvement over that HID-hating right side cutoff on the HDR's!!!
      Later,
      EDIT: for spelling...


      [Modified by nater, 11:20 AM 10-1-2002]

    19. Member Brake_Dust's Avatar
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      10-01-2002 10:35 PM #19
      GOOD WORK!!!!
      Thanks for taking the time to display your talents [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    20. Member germanrox's Avatar
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      10-02-2002 03:26 AM #20
      Hey just a thought did you loctite down that screw at all? Any worries of it wiggling itself loose?
      Sean Winkler
      Sales & Leasing Consultant | Barrier Audi
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    21. Member Daemon42's Avatar
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      10-02-2002 04:40 AM #21
      I didn't and I don't really expect it can come loose.
      Both the old shield and new brass one are soft enough that the screw
      bites pretty well and the metal will deform a bit when it's tightened down good
      so I don't think that screw will go anywhere.
      BTW, my HIDs should be here tomorrow judging by the UPS tracking
      number. Wythenshawe, GB monday.. Louisville, KY Tuesday.. Denver
      tomorrow.
      ian



      [Modified by Daemon42, 12:13 PM 10-2-2002]

    22. Member Daemon42's Avatar
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      10-02-2002 02:18 PM #22
      Arrived this morning. Not bad. Less than 3 days in transit.
      They're *almost* plug and play. The female plug that goes to the stock H1
      now will plug into a wire with a male plug that goes to the relay to switch it on.
      The relay has two leads going to the battery, and another set of leads going to the ballast
      which then has a big thick wire coming out of it which splits and goes to the HID bulb/capsule.
      The HID bulb base is thicker and wider than the stock H1 bulb's base so getting the clip that is supposed
      to hold it in, to actually clip, is a bit of an adventure but doable with a pair of pliers to manhandle it.
      The "almost" part though is that the back of the HID bulbs sticks back quite
      a distance more than the stock H1 bulbs and the wires stick straight out the back further
      so now the cap that goes over the back of the projector housing will no longer fit
      over the back of the bulb base. The projector housing has rubber
      seals at every seam including that cap, and a rubber grommet the stock wiring goes through,
      all in an attempt to keep water out of there. Since there's an airspace above
      and below the mounting point for the H1 bulb it is important that the rear
      of the projector be sealed from water. Water on the outside of a Halogen bulb
      will destroy it nearly instantly, and I assume that is a similar case for the HIDs.
      To fix this, I intend to make a hole in the center of the cap just large enough to fit
      the larger of the two plugs on the HID bulb's wires. Stick the large plug through,
      then the small plug should fit through next to the wire of the first, then seal it up
      with a small patch of black duct tape or similar. I could use hot melt glue and seal
      it up that way, but I don't the HIDs permanently attached to the cap just yet.
      BTW, I tried to fire up the HIDs in my testing environment above.. projector
      out of the car, driven by a battery charger in 50 amp start mode. Problem is
      the charger is cheaply rectified (AC -> DC conversion) so it's a pulsed DC current and
      while it appears to be able to power the ballast just fine and the HID fires up, it
      totally freaks out the relay. *click*click*click*click*....*flash*flash*flash*fl ash*....
      Oops. That's not good.
      I still think I'll try to find a way to set this up in a testbed so I can get an objective
      measure of brightness with the camera under controlled conditions. Need a spare battery
      is what I need. I also need to reaim my headlights with the old halogens so I have
      a fair comparison. I got some body work done recently and they completely messed
      up the aim on my left headlamp. Stay tuned.
      ian

    23. Member Daemon42's Avatar
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      10-04-2002 05:13 AM #23
      Some initial photos.
      Before.. 55 watt Halogens.


      and after with 35 watt 4100K HIDs.
      A few things to note.
      The camera exposure and white balance were fixed for both photos at 1/15th of a second
      at F4.4 and the flash whitebalance (which is actually pretty close to daylight whitebalance).
      This gives you a good idea of the difference in color, and absolute brightness.
      The HIDs are two full stops (a camera term) brighter than the halogens. To make
      the HIDs appear the same brightness (dimness ), as the halogens I shot
      at 1/60th F4.4.
      The marks on the wall are my aiming marks.
      Note that I eliminated the splash on the left light, and the right one has a modified
      splash pattern. It's not immediately obvious because of the difference in brightness
      but the right side splash goes up, and then cuts off a little early and continues
      horizontal. (See other previous photos above).
      Note that while the cutoff is very sharp, there's a little glare above the line.
      That's from the very worn "clear" rock protection on the front lens. I know this
      because I can stand at a 45 degree angle and still see the entire plastic
      cover glowing. It may scatter the whiter light a bit more as well.
      My intention is to peel them all off, clean with acetone and apply
      new covers (they really do save my lenses in Colorado every year).
      I'll put together a page with more photos and documentation to
      go along with the one referenced above.
      [edit]one extra pic


      ian
      [edit]fixing some broken links.


      [Modified by Daemon42, 12:13 PM 2-8-2003]

    24. Global CSI Moderator
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      10-04-2002 08:14 AM #24
      Good job,
      especially with eliminating the right side flare on the left-hand projector.
      My E46 projector still has that (but it's the step up-type so it's not a problem) but I'd still like to get the cutoff more flat on that left side.
      Looks good, man.
      Looks like OEM 4100K, right???
      Later,

    25. Member sdriver's Avatar
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      10-04-2002 06:26 PM #25

      The question is... how much does this cost? Just the low beams right?
      -Stef

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