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    Thread: 85 URQ Joins

    1. Member
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      07-24-2011 04:15 PM #26
      So, to continue the saga, the reason the car was sitting on the street instead of in my driveway was that I couldn't get reverse, nor, for that matter, 1st or 2nd! It was allright when I left the shop but by the time I was nearing home, about 20 minutes, 1st became 3rd and I kept stalling at the lights 'cause it don't like to set off in 3rd. Shift lever was feeling a bit woolie too.

      I nursed it back to my shop the next day, got it on the lift and found the shifter bushing, #27 in the picture below, had distintergrated. This must have hapenned gradually over a number of years and I guess, with the elevated temperatures lately, it just crossed the threshold of being able to move the selector shaft enough to find the outermost gears. Once I fix this it should feel like a short shifter compared with the long throw that I thought was normal.



      The bushing is, of course, no longer available but I found out that 034 Motorsport are making them and I also picked up an OE one from a guy on ebay UK along with some other goodies (see below). Now I have a lifetime's supply.



      Apparantly, the short rod, #35 often fails and they are NLA too. Mine seems fine thankfully. The ball on the top of #33 can come loose too but again, mine seems good. It was a little tight in there above the tranny and after finding water in my basement last night I said "Sod this" and booked it in at Auto Europe. As much as I like to work on my cars I just don't have time to tackle this fiddly job with all the other stuff crumbling around me right now. Thank god my Jeep's fixed; and the Subaru moves under its own power too now, sort of.

      Some stuff I dd take care of myself though:

      I managed to get a gas strut for the trunk. Apparantly it needs two to support the weight of the trunk and that huge spolier and if you only have one like I had it will crash down on your bonce while you are deep in conversation with your spare tire. OUCH!. Couldn't find an OE one at a decent price so went with a Stabilus to match the other side. So much nicer than the stick I was using. Much more civilised.

      I've been trying to track down a fuel smell for some time now. It was often there but seemed to be worse with the windows open and after taking some corners, particularly left handers. It was worse the more fuel was in the tank too, I think. Initially I suspected the long breather pipe that goes from roughly the middle of the tank to the filler neck. The original one was very soft so I thought it might be sweating if not actually leaking. I replaced it with a bit of basic hose temporarily and thought it made a bit of a difference but later realised that might have been wishful thinking. I may yet put the original hose back on.



      Later I discovered that the gas cap was getting wet with fuel after spirited drives so I replaced the fuel cap gasket with an OE one from the dealer. So far (not very far actually) so good. Fingers crossed. No picture; it's a round piece of rubber with a big hole in the middle. Use your imagination.

      When I initially test drove the car the passenger side window stopped working. Well, not completely. It would just go down a couple of inches, make a horrible grinding noise and stop. Fortunately it decided to go back up so I bought the car anyway. So I finally got a chance to get inside the door motivated by the increasing temperatures and lack of air conditioning in the car. Door card came off easily once I located all the screws and clips (didn't braek any either )


      I was happy to find that the wire that pulls the window mechanism had come derailed from the bottom pulley and with a bit of effort I managed to get it back on there. It works now but does make some funny noises sometimes. The same noises the driver's side makes so I figured they are factory. Job done!


      While I was in there I took the opportunity to have a look at the door lock mechanism. The button was going up and down when I operated the driver's side lock but the key was doing nothing in the passenger side, not that one ever uses the key in that side. It did cross my mind that perhaps it was a design feature then I realised, why would they have a lock. Anyway, brain back in gear it soon became apparant that the little plastic ear on the back of the lock had become detached from its actuator rod. Two minutes and a skimmed knucle later it was back on and working as Audi intended all along. Look:


      While messing around in the cabin with the various knobs and switches I found out that my blower fan goes to ELEVEN. Well, it goes to four but that's amazing as the the panel only indicates 3. It works too; fan goes even faster! I can't for the life of me figure out why the switch goes to 4 while the panel only goes to 3. What were they drinking in Ingoldstat in the mid-eighties?


      I put back the undertray that giudes air to the intercooler. It came with the car but not actually attched to it. I had to do a bit of rally-rigging with some zip ties as it's missing a couple of screw holes now.


      Part of my ebay UK haul was a pair of new sun visor clips in more or less the original color. A snap to swap out but they totally transform the car. Handles as if on rails. OK, they hardly made any difference, even to the visors, but it feels good to have replaced more broken stuff.



      More UK parts: dash vents, middle and sides. Only my middle one was broken but it's good to have spares right?

      Broken vent. All flippity floppoty:


      New vent. All nice and together. You can see the tabs that hold it in place too....


      ....so I know where to stick my screw driver.


      Maybe I should just leave it like this:


      Nah!


      Man, that was a lot of venting.

      In the category of interesting aside did you know, Wikipedia says "The Illuminati, a Bavarian secret society, was founded in Ingolstadt..." and my business is called Team Illuminata Motorsport. Coincidence? I'm saying nothing. Schtum!

      Now, off to Auto Europe with you Stiggy (Hmm. I think I just named my car)
      Last edited by team illuminata; 07-24-2011 at 04:22 PM.

    2. Member
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      07-27-2011 03:09 PM #27
      Just got the car back from Auto Europe and it now shifts beautifully

      Thanks to Kenny who did a great job and worth every penny to let a professional fiddle with it this time. Here's what came out:



      26 year old German rubber. Yuk!

      Kenny said the short rod #35 was OK but getting a little worn. I should start looking for one but they are NLA of course. Anyone have one or want to make me one?



      When I went to pick the car up they had it parked next to a Corrado. Interesting comparison don't you think?





      The Corrado almost looks like a next generation quattro more than the one that actually followed it.

      Now the shift libkage is sorted I've started thinking about a suspension rebuild. Have all the bushings bought but Kenny also gave me some NEW Bilsteins for the car. They are actually from a later car but might fit. Anyone know?







      Also, it looks like my gas cap gasket has solved my fuel smell issues too

    3. Member Sepp's Avatar
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      07-27-2011 11:46 PM #28
      ohh jeez..the fuel cap issue...
      I had the same, but worse. Take a sharp left turn, and the side of the car is wet with gas...

      New gasket (home made), and good to go!
      If you have a 5 cylinder, you don't need a stereo.

    4. Member Sepp's Avatar
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      07-27-2011 11:57 PM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by team illuminata View Post

      While messing around in the cabin with the various knobs and switches I found out that my blower fan goes to ELEVEN. Well, it goes to four but that's amazing as the the panel only indicates 3. It works too; fan goes even faster! I can't for the life of me figure out why the switch goes to 4 while the panel only goes to 3. What were they drinking in Ingoldstat in the mid-eighties?



      you might want to pop that piece off, and check for a date stamp on the backside... your's should look like this!

      I won't know if I have a spare one of these from an '85 car, until the fall...if you're looking for a replacement.

      If you have a 5 cylinder, you don't need a stereo.

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      07-28-2011 08:39 AM #30
      Quote Originally Posted by Sepp View Post
      ohh jeez..the fuel cap issue...
      I had the same, but worse. Take a sharp left turn, and the side of the car is wet with gas...

      New gasket (home made), and good to go!
      I used an OE. What did you make yours out of?

    6. Member
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      07-28-2011 08:39 AM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by Sepp View Post
      you might want to pop that piece off, and check for a date stamp on the backside... your's should look like this!

      I won't know if I have a spare one of these from an '85 car, until the fall...if you're looking for a replacement.

      Interesting. Do you think mine was replaced at some time or built like that?

      Oh, and how does it "pop off" ? Does one just pry it our with a screw driver or dismantle the console? I intend replacing the radio soon. Maybe that's when this should happen.
      Last edited by team illuminata; 07-28-2011 at 08:42 AM.

    7. Member Sepp's Avatar
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      07-28-2011 08:21 PM #32
      the take cap on my car had a thin rubber gasket, that had indents from the years...so I found a similar roll of rubber sheeting (that we use to make gaskets out of at work), and copied the pattern.
      Pretty easy.

      With the vent control plate, it's been a few years since I've taken one off.

      I do remember is that the lever knobs pull straight off, as well as the fan speed knob.

      On the back side (after you remove the plate, there is a plug that goes to the AC rocker switch, and a lamp that is the back light.

      It's a tough guess if someone replaced that at a later date....but it looks like it.
      The date will be stamped on the back in typical German fashion. stamped in blue are the part numbers, and the build date. Mine 11/84
      If you have a 5 cylinder, you don't need a stereo.

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      07-28-2011 10:43 PM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by Sepp View Post
      the take cap on my car had a thin rubber gasket, that had indents from the years...so I found a similar roll of rubber sheeting (that we use to make gaskets out of at work), and copied the pattern.
      Pretty easy.

      With the vent control plate, it's been a few years since I've taken one off.

      I do remember is that the lever knobs pull straight off, as well as the fan speed knob.

      On the back side (after you remove the plate, there is a plug that goes to the AC rocker switch, and a lamp that is the back light.

      It's a tough guess if someone replaced that at a later date....but it looks like it.
      The date will be stamped on the back in typical German fashion. stamped in blue are the part numbers, and the build date. Mine 11/84
      Yes, I'd like to replace it though it's not a top priority. I rather like the idea that there is a secret "4". I'm probably not going to mess with it unless I have an replacement to hand though.

      I think it is quite interesting that as well as the additional speed the ac swicth is reversed and the design of the hot/cold. red/blue bands are different. Oh, and the legend "AIR CONDITIONER" have been added. Nearly missed that one.
      Last edited by team illuminata; 07-28-2011 at 10:46 PM.

    9. Member Sepp's Avatar
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      07-28-2011 10:51 PM #34
      hmm...let me double check the part number on this piece.....

      I found it in my spares box. It might be from a vw...
      If you have a 5 cylinder, you don't need a stereo.

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      08-07-2011 11:07 PM #35
      Some updates:

      I bought an OE steering wheel off eBay UK. Seller said it was in great condition and he was not wrong. I like the Audi Sport one that came with the car but it has always bothered me that it is not original. It's indicator cancel tab was offset too so the left turn signal cancelled too soon and the right too late. Swapping them was easy but you have to pull the cover harder than feels right to get it off. I like that I never need a steering wheel puller on this car

      Before:



      After:




      I know most of you would prefer the Sport one especially as it's chunky and 14" vs 15" for the OE but I actually kind of prefer the way it drives with the ugly one.

      Replacing the steering wheel cured my intermittent horn issue too. I also seem to have fixed the spare tire leak. Well Auto Europe did by remounting it. Gas cap is still leaking despite the new gasket maybe I'll try a new cap next.

      Of course I had to road test the car with it's new steering wheel so I took it on a tour of local car events. First off was a car show someone gave me a flier for at Cars and Coffee yesterday. Lots of muscle cars and old domestic stuff as you might expect but a few import gems namely a rather nice black Testarossa, a BMW 850 coupe and a 90's Mercedes but I don't know my Mercedes like I should. The quattro would have fit right in there but I'm not sure I'm cut out for car shows. Seems like you park the car then sit next to it for five hours. Sounds boring. Is it?

      Next up was a autocross at Belle Isle. A bautiful setting if you ever get the chance. The events are held on the newish cement paddock they poured for the Detroit GP we had a few years ago. I didn't mean to run, the car's not up to it and cones make a mess of paint but I did hope to do a fun run or two at the end by way of a demo as many people said they wanted to hear it run. Alas, it was not to be. Apparantly you had to have run the event to do fun runs so off to the Motor City Mayhem event at the Silverdome in Pontiac just round the corner form our shop.

      I didn't know much about this thing except that seemed to involve some drifting and a time attack event along with other crazy stuff. Mayhem is a good word as reports at the autocross were that the previous iteration was a bit chaotic. I got there n time for the drifting and was ushered into the "Display" parking are as I had such a nice car. There were a lot of strange cars there let me tell you but plenty of spectators so maybe we should get involved in this mayhem one day. car was well received especially as the Michigan Gumball rally finished there while I was in attendance so some slightly more normal car people were around.



      Then I took the car down Woodward but nobody was out as it was still a little early in the day.

      I did discover that I have no brake lights which is a little disconcerting. They are on the same fuse as the horn interestingly but that works. Bulbs are fine too seemingly. Any known issues with these?

    11. Member Sepp's Avatar
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      08-08-2011 12:18 AM #36
      Quote Originally Posted by team illuminata View Post
      Some updates:





      I did discover that I have no brake lights which is a little disconcerting. They are on the same fuse as the horn interestingly but that works. Bulbs are fine too seemingly. Any known issues with these?
      You can pull the quick disconnects on the rear lights.
      I've seen two problems with these.

      A bad ground, and overheating due to a poor connection.

      both are caused normally by the tongues (on the light housing side) being corroded, and not making a good connection.
      On my car it seems the right side was always troublesome, until I cleaned up the contacts really good, and used some conductive grease.
      If you have a 5 cylinder, you don't need a stereo.

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      08-08-2011 08:48 AM #37
      Quote Originally Posted by Sepp View Post
      You can pull the quick disconnects on the rear lights.
      I've seen two problems with these.

      A bad ground, and overheating due to a poor connection.

      both are caused normally by the tongues (on the light housing side) being corroded, and not making a good connection.
      On my car it seems the right side was always troublesome, until I cleaned up the contacts really good, and used some conductive grease.
      Thanks Sepp. I had this problem with a turn signal last week too and on landscape lighting when I used to be involved with that. Actually what happened to the turn lamp and what used to happen on landscape lights was thet the nub contact on the lamp base would flatten over time from heat and no longer make good contact. I'll have to check these.

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      08-08-2011 08:55 AM #38
      Quote Originally Posted by team illuminata View Post
      Thanks Sepp. I had this problem with a turn signal last week too and on landscape lighting when I used to be involved with that. Actually what happened to the turn lamp and what used to happen on landscape lights was thet the nub contact on the lamp base would flatten over time from heat and no longer make good contact. I'll have to check these.
      Just had a fiddles with it and got them to come on. Seems to be the wire going into the bottom of the driver's side bulb housing. if I tug on it they come on again. They are working right now but obvioulsy I'm going to have to get in there and rectify this properly. Can't have people rearending the car.

    14. Member Sepp's Avatar
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      08-08-2011 08:08 PM #39
      Yep, the quick disconnects....

      It's easy to remove the lamp housings, while leaving the lens on the car... they are held in place by a squeeze clip.

      The lamp housing side is male, and the plug end is female.

      Once I cleaned the males up real good with a wire brush, a little grease on the female side..no problems in 9 years.

      I'll post s pic in a few minuets.
      Last edited by Sepp; 08-08-2011 at 08:10 PM.
      If you have a 5 cylinder, you don't need a stereo.

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      08-10-2011 09:56 AM #40
      Am I missing something, literally?

      I noticed my front grill was a bit loose along the bottom so had a fiddle with it. All the top clips are in place but I'm not sure what is supossed to hold it in place along the bottom. It seems like it might latch behind the bumper via some tabs but they don't reach high enough. There is evidence of one potential securing device roughly in the center but it may be broken. Can't believe that's athe only means of securing the grill so how do the 85 grills attach, anyone know or care to probe theres?

      Some pictures to illustrate:










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      08-14-2011 06:04 PM #41
      I've been driving the car quite a bit recently, mostly aolng Woodward Avenue, the venue for the upcoming Dream Cruise. For those of you who are not familiar with this crazy event check out this web site. Basically, Woodward, which is a mile from my house, hosts the biggest car event on the planet next week and has been building up to this climax for the last couple of months. The street is the ultimate car guys hangout during the summer months. I spend way too much time here but the car is a big hit and it can't hurt business. I will skip the actual cruise itself as I'll be at a RallyCross but by then it is so far out of controll as to be not worth it. The preceeding week is the best IMHO with every conceivable type of car on display driving right by you. Here it is taking on two modern iterations of the theme:



      So as a result of all this hanging out on Woodward a few issues came to light. First of the car cut out as I was leaving a prime Woodward vantage spot last Friady. I popped the hood/bonnet and fiddled with the ignition equipment looking for anything obvious. The only thing I found out of place was the connector on the side of the distributor which had come loose. The screw holding it on would not thread back into the distrubutor body so I zip tied it in place in proper rally fashion. Car started right up and has been fine since.




      I got it into the shop the next day but could not get the screw to tighten up. It seems as if the threads have stripped so we are sticking with the zip tie for now. I broke the bracket in the process too I have no idea what this connector is for or if it could have caused the engine to cut out like it did but it seems to run fine now.

      I did notice the rotor arm seemed a little worse for wear when I looked at it so I cleaned it up with a bit of sand paper for now and ordered a new one for next week.






      I also had some issues with the driver's window. It wouldn't go back up a few times. I had had this happen once before but disproved it later when it slid up nice and smooth but this time it definately needed some assistance. I've since figured out that it only does this if it's raining or I've jsut washed the car. Seems as if the guides are a little loose so the window can wobble in them and if it's wet stick. Are the guides adjustable or do you have to replace them? I did try to have a look in the door but failed at the first hurdle: I couldn't get the door handle off the door card! Oh, the screws came out OK but I couldn't figure out how to disconnect the wires from the power mirror switch in the handle. I couldn't even create enough slack to rotate and release the top mount so I could see the connector so was doing it blind. Any trcks here or can anyone tell me how it comes apart?


      I also need to replace a breather shown below as it it perishing and looks about to fail. Of course it is no longer available new and the generic pipe I had in the shop was too small.






      Why do I have two heated window switches? Neither of which seem to do anything anyway. The top one even feels broken as it does not flip on or off positively. Why two and what do they do? Are they readily available and easy to replace?





      I found this relay on the floor under the driver's seat.



      Anyone have any idea what it's for?

      See you on Woodward this week?

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      08-17-2011 03:24 PM #42
      Thanks to some tips from some helpful Audi owners I got into the door again yesterday. The switch does just pry out of the handle and is easy to unplug with the help of a screwdriver:





      Then it was easy to get the door card off and find out what is causing my window to stick.



      Here's one obvious issue. Two of the isolator studs that hold the motor to the door have sheared so the motor flops around under load. Can't be ideal.





      Fortunately there was a threaded hole in the motor that lined up with the big hole that I assume was for a hand crank on lesser models. I used a big washer and secured it in place. I couldn't locate it where it wanted to be as it wouldn't clear the big aftermarker speaker that a previous owner added. maybe this is the cause of the shearing.



      Hopefully that helps though the window still felt loose in its guides. To help I shoved some large cable ties behid the guides to push them out a bit and take up some of the slack. It work somewhat.





      I tried to replace my rotor arm but was supplied with the wrong part. Hole is too small.



      I did mange to find a self tapping screw to hold my hall sensor in place though. no more cable ties. Looks almost OE.



      I had a go at my over-abundance of heated rear window switches too. I loosened the bezel but it wouldn't come off without removing the steering wheel and indicator stalks. Fortunately I still had enough room to pry out the switches and blank and this is what I found taped up:





      Looks like someone nearly had a fire. This might explain the two HRW switches and why one was iffy. The undamaged one wasn't connected to anything nor were there any extra wires back there so I suspect a prevoius owner bought a new switch to try to fix a non-funtioning HRW and just left them both in place when he found the melted mess. Im not sure if I'm going to deal with this one either.



      I am wondering if there is a short in the HRW wiring somewhere. I had a quick look in the under-hood fuse box but didn't find a relay for it.





      Maybe one day when the dash is apart I'll splice in a new HRW connector for that newer switch.

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      08-17-2011 07:02 PM #43
      I've never had any of the switches out of my Ur, but, on my 4kq, ALL the plugs look like your melted one-SUPER common issue. The headlight ones do it SUPER bad, especially as the wiring gets older. I was lucky enough to find a PERFECT harness, have it soldered in place, and got a good switch. I want to have it relayed to reduce the draw. You can touch the switches and feel them get warm, actually hot, when they are all messed up. Glad to hear that you got the panel and handle off.

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      09-02-2011 12:28 PM #44
      So a couple of weeks ago now (I've been on vacation) I took the car to a RallyCross. before you get too excited, no, I didn't run the car, just took it out there to see the new Detroit Region course and hang with my RallyCross buddies most of whom haven't seen the car yet. Parked it right in the middle of the paddock for maximum exposure but was soon joined by another red Audi:



      On the way there I tried the cruise control as I was on a freeway for about 30 minutes. I was very impressed that it still worked but even more impressed how it held the speed rock steady over hill and dale. Awesome.



      No. that's km/h not mph. I beleive this represents exactly 70mph

      The last 15 minutes to the event was on the smoothest dirt road I have ever seen. The car thought it was at Rally Finland!



      I booked it out of there before a big storm rolled through but had a great time doing ride alongs with some of the competitors. Glad I took my helmet. I was quite pleased with how the car drove and that it didn't, for once, break any parts or show any previously hidden issues; or so I thought. This is what I discovered the other day:



      Yep, broken exhaust hanger. Anyone know where to get one of these? Car is still serviceable thanks to the wonders of cable ties.



      No wonder they call these a rally icon. There's more cable ties on this than my rally car now!

      I'm still struggling to find the correct distributor rotor for the car. The first had the same electrode as the current one but was too small to fit over the shaft. The latest (#3) fits but the electrode is smaller. Can I use this one?



      Still need a new gas cap too.

      Cars and Coffee at Kart 2 Kart tomorrow.

      Later

    20. Member Sepp's Avatar
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      09-07-2011 02:15 PM #45
      You can actually get new hangers, with a chain inside of them, to help deal with the very heavy Quattro exhaust.
      I'd have to search for some sellers, but they are the same size as the VW's of the same era have.

      I'm pretty sure I'm running a rotor arm like the narrow one....no running issues.
      If you have a 5 cylinder, you don't need a stereo.

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      09-07-2011 02:22 PM #46
      Quote Originally Posted by Sepp View Post
      You can actually get new hangers, with a chain inside of them, to help deal with the very heavy Quattro exhaust.
      I'd have to search for some sellers, but they are the same size as the VW's of the same era have.

      I'm pretty sure I'm running a rotor arm like the narrow one....no running issues.
      Thanks Sepp,

      I picked up a hanger from Francois over the weekend. OE rubber same as the original. Should work for a while. I'll try my rotor arm and see if it blows up.

    22. Member Sepp's Avatar
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      09-07-2011 05:27 PM #47
      Quote Originally Posted by team illuminata View Post
      Thanks Sepp,

      I picked up a hanger from Francois over the weekend. OE rubber same as the original. Should work for a while. .
      Should last another 26 years!!!
      If you have a 5 cylinder, you don't need a stereo.

    23. Member Sepp's Avatar
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      09-07-2011 05:31 PM #48
      ..and some folks use a heated window switch for the use of turning on/off (added in) front fog lights, or driving lights as it's easier to find a WH switch than a fog light switch.
      If you have a 5 cylinder, you don't need a stereo.

    24. Member
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      10-03-2011 04:04 PM #49
      Time for an update. Been doing a bit of driving and a bit of maintenance. Car has been behaving itself lately too. Took it on a 3 hour round trip to Northern Ohio a few weeks ago:



      Though it was daylight I ran it with the headlights on both ways as a test. Someone, perhaps on here, had mentioned how the headlight switch can get really warm and sometimes can melt the connector behind the switch. I thought, with Fall approaching, it might be an idea to see if they would survive and indeed they did but, I must say, the switch did get alarmingly warm. In fact I would go as far as to describe it as "hot"! So when I got back I put it on my list to investigate the wiring with a view to maybe adding some relays.

      It was during this process that I decided my main beams weren't working as I couldn't get the inner-most set of lights to come on. Later, with the car in the shop I could clearly see the main beams change from low beam so was a little puzzled. Once I got the lights off the car I realized that it has dual filamet H4s or something and they are wired up and work but the innermost high beams are not wired up wihch is why I didn't see them come on and why I thought they weren't working. In the daylight I couldn't see the H4s change to main beam. This must all be a consequence of the Euro headlight conversion the car underwent sometime in its past. So, I am going to rewire the headlights and all main beams to function using the headlight switches to control relays powered directly from the battery. I think I can create a harness for this that will just plug into the existing wiring without doing any cutting or splicing too. We will see.

      I did discover that the headlight adjusters are missing too. Apparantly these were automatic motorized jobbies on the Euro cars but manual ones can be used too. Anyone shed any light on this?



      I also discovered a bit of rust behind the right side headlight. I'll have to get a bit of stop-rust on that later.



      While I had the lights out I thought it a good idea to have a look at the air filter as it seems impossible to get at it from above. Look:



      I manged to pry the lid off enough, but just enough, to ease the filter out.



      It was really tight and the clips were hard to reach. In fact it looks like the previous owner managed to pinch one of the pleats between the lid and housing last time it was replaced. Probably wasn;t sealing too well I bet:



      Turns out it has a washable K&N filter so I washed it, oiled it and put it back



      After checking the filter I thought it might be a good idea to check the spark plugs especially as they are so easy to get at. hey were all in pretty good shape but were of the triple electrode type from Bosch. I thought these were a bit hokey so went in pursuit of some replacements only to be told that these are the correct ones the car came with. Is ths right?





      I tried the new narrow contact rotor arm on the run to Ohio. The car ran fine but didn't feel as powerful so I have swapped back the wider one. Feels better again. I have found a Porsche part number for the wide rotor arm and endeavoring to acquire one through our local Porsche dealer. The pld w one is not in bad shape but a new one can't hurt.

      My brand new gas cap came in too and proved successful during the Ohio trip. I can now run a full tank withought is pouring down the side of the car.

      On the way back through Canada last week I swung by the previous previous owners shop for a visit. I had hoped to be in the quattro but those plans fell through but still, it was good to visit with Rob and share stories of the car. I snagged a few original parts to such as the quad lights and ac parts. perhaps I'll put them on one day.Thanks Rob.





      I'm trying to drive the car as much as possible rather than working on it as winter is approaching but I still have a few things I want to do sooner rather than later such as the headlight relays, rotor arm, breather hose and radio though I must say I am enjoying my 80s Duran Duran albums lately.

    25. Banned StormChaser's Avatar
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      10-04-2011 10:55 PM #50
      Maybe I'm confused, I thought 84.5+ didn't have the quad headlights?

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