All the write-ups I have found for ATF are for the DSG transmissions. The procedure is different for the 6 speed 09G tiptronics and I had to go it alone since no one here or on passatworld seemed to know how. The differences are the different filter and location, and a different tool is required for the oil pan; for the DSG trannies you just need the VAS 6262 tool, but that tool won't work for the 09G tiptronic. Instead you need a 6262/2. You can use the 6262 but if you do, you then need the 6262/2 which is an adapter. However, the adapter works fine by itself so you don't need both tools, you just need the 6262/2.
The DSG transmission has a much larger drain plug than the 09G which is why the 6262/2 is needed. The 6262/2 is basically just a hollow metal pipe with threads cut in the end that are the same as the drain plug... M10 I believe. The other end is just smooth and you attach a hose to it for the ATF to flow through.
VAS 6262/2 tool from AST Tools:
The DSG uses a different filter in a different location as well. The 09G has the filter inside the oil pan like most VW transmissions.
Stuff you'll need:
- ATF: 4 liters of VW G 055 025 A2, or you can get the Fuchs stuff which is equivalent and meets VW specs. It says Titan ATF 4400 on the front. This is one place that sells it: http://www.blauparts.com/vw/vw_fluid...nsmissionfluid
- VAS 6262/2 tool. AST tools makes one. Buy it direct by calling them and paying with CC. It isn't cheap... $30 or so. The tool number is 105 and you can see it here: http://www.asttool.com/detail_page.p...mber=ATF%20105
- Filter and gasket kit. I bought mine from germanautoparts.com. In the part number search field, use 09G325429A, and order the second one that displays "Transmission Filter ALTERNATE". The brand is Meistersatz. I notice that ecstuning.com has them as well: http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...sion/ES263463/.
- 5mm allen wrench
- 6 feet of 5/16" id hose. I got the clear vinyl stuff from Home Depot
- 10mm socket
- T25 Tool (for removing belly pan bolts)
- Transmission drain plug washer (from the dealer)
- Oil drain pan
- Ross-Tech VCDS (for checking ATF level)
Jack the car or put it up on ramp stands or on a lift.
Remove the belly pan using the T25 tool.
Put the drain pan below the transmission drain plug and remove the drain plug using your 5mm allen. Once that is removed, some oil may drain. Wait for it to slow down a bit, then insert your 5mm allen into the hole, deeper, and unscrew the fill level tube. The remainder of the ATF will now drain.
Drain Plug and crush washer:
Drain plug removed, showing allen portion of ATF level tube:
ATF level Tube removed:
Once it has drained, remove the 8 bolts holding the transmission pan in place and remove the pan. Remove the gasket from the pan. Clean the pan well, removing the magnets and giving them a good cleaning, then put magnets back in place. Note that the oil pan has lines stamped where the magnets are supposed to be. Keep the inside of the pan spotless.
Cleaned oil pan with level tube re-installed and new gasket:
Remove the filter via three bolts. When you do, be prepared as more ATF will pour out of that area.
Wipe the transmission where the oil pan and filter mate to it.
Put some clean ATF on the new cork filter and install it. Tighten the filter bolts to 7 newton meters.
New filter installed:
Put the new gasket on the oil pan, including the metal spacers in the holes, and rub some clean ATF on it, then bolt it in place. Tighten the bolts in a diagonal pattern to 7 newton meters (I tightened these by hand and did not use a torque wrench because I've stripped out one of these bolts on another car of mine when torquing them to factory specs... part of it is that I believe the specs are "dry" and when you are doing this job, the threads will end up coated in ATF. When threads are wet, the torque number goes down, so just snug them up to what feels right but they don't need to be super tight... just be careful you don't strip them!)
Re-install the fill level tube into the pan.
To fill, you put one end of your 5/16" hose on the AST tool, and the other end on the built-in spigot of the ATF bottles. The ATF bottles have a cool little spigot that comes out like a gas can. The problem is that it's a bit too big to get the 5/16" hose over it. What I did was soak the last inch or so of my hose in boiling water for 10 seconds to soften it, then dried it completely inside and out quickly, and then was able to slide it over the spigot. Once you do that, you can use that same cap+spigot for all the rest of the bottles. You could also warm the hose with a heat gun or hair dryer. If you use the water method like I did, make ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that you remove ALL traces of water from the inside the hose!!!!!
Cap and spigot connected to hose:
Thread the AST (6262/2) tool into the oil pan where the bolt normally goes, then put the 5/16" hose on the bottom of it, then screw your ATF bottle into the spigot cap. Hold the bottle high and turn upside down and squeeze. You can also use a razor blade to poke a little hole in the bottom of the bottle (which is now at the top since you are holding it upside down) which allows air to replace the fluid that is draining out. Put 3.5 quarts into the transmission.
6262/2 Tool with hose connected:
Filling with fluid:
Now the tricky part.... pull the hose off the AST tool and quickly plug the tool with a rubber plug of some sort to keep the fluid from draining. Start the car and let it idle. Put it in gear with your foot on the brake and leave there for about 10 seconds, then put it back in park.
Now you need to level the car so that you can check the fluid level. You can't check the level if the car is on jack stands or jacked up. If your car is lowered, it might not have enough clearance to leave the 6262/2 tool in place so while the car is running, you'll have to remove it and put the drain plug in place quickly (while fluid runs out over your hands making everything a slippery impossible mess). If your car is not lowered, you'll have enough clearance but lower slowly, or if on jackstands, back the car off VERY slowly.
With the car still running and now level, it's time to check the ATF fluid level. Use your VCDS to check the ATF temp. You check the ATF level when the ATF temp is 40 degrees (plus or minus about 5 degrees is ok). To check the fluid level, remove the drain plug bolt. If no fluid comes out, you need to add some. If fluid comes out, let it drain until it drips, then re-install drain plug and torque to 15 newton meters. Note that if the engine is NOT running, the fluid level will be much higher and will drain out with the bolt removed, causing you to have a low transmission fluid level.
Now re-install the belly pan and you're done. Your ATF and filter should be changed every 40k miles.