16Valve is Inside - Time For Externals

[16ValveInside]

Update - 16V Engine & Trans are installed, time for the external bolt on's.
I am so close to being finished with stuff that has to be cleaned and painted!
Next step was the starter and alternator. Both of these were working when removed but they were dirty. I thought about just taking them apart and cleaning, but good luck trying to take an alternator apart, so I found a local rebuilder and told them, take em apart, and clean em up. I am in no hurry, they worked before, project car, anything needs to be done inside, do it.
And here are the results:







starter installed - after hooking up the engine hoist for support and a jack under the engine just to be safe, hard to get use to having to support the weight of the drivetrain to replace/install a starter



they did a good job reasonable price and much cheaper than buying a reman Bosch plus shipping.
plus these are the oe Bosch units to the car.

Question - What is it that bolts to that little slotted bracket to left of the engine mount?

[VEE-DUBBER]

Knock sensor connector slides in the slot.

[16ValveInside]

Knock sensor connector slides in the slot.

thanks, now I know I can take it off since I'm going MegaSquirt

[16ValveInside]

I finally got a downpipe. I'm going with a complete Techtonics exhaust system, but I could not decide what to do about a downpipe. I wanted to buy theirs but its stainless which I'd love to have but just could not justify the $275.00 price tag for the 251-117S. I found one of the older non stainless versions in the classified but it did not have the flex coupling and the cost of a coupling and the 251-117 would end up being more. So I found the Bosal part number and the searched the net for the best price and prices went from 228.00 and up, but I found a place on E-bay that had 3 in stock for $150.00 so I bought one. This was made in Italy.

[IMG][/IMG]

[Eric24v]

Updates!!!!!

[16ValveInside]

updates indeed,

Got the axles installed, AutoTech has complete Loebro german right side axles on clearance sale for like 110.00 shipped. So I picked one up and then bought a new german inner and outer joints for the left side and reused the original axle, not a big fan of all the new cheap aftermarket axles, but if this was gonna be a stock daily driver they would be probably ok.

I've started going through the engine compartment wiring, hooking up the starter and alternator, cleaning terminals/grounds and thats where I am now, I'm going to clean/organize/hookup as much of the wiring that I'm going to use.

[Eric24v]

Keep us updated with pics as well... beautiful build (the last thread and this one).


btw, I have a metal coolant flange if you're still looking for one.

[16ValveInside]

Keep us updated with pics as well... beautiful build (the last thread and this one).


btw, I have a metal coolant flange if you're still looking for one.

Thanks for the comments, and as far as the metal coolant flange, I'm just going to go with
the plastic one on the side of the head since I've already installed it, but I'm using the OE metal one for the front.

[16ValveInside]

OE drivers side axle after I stalled new german inner and outer cv joints and boots



And the right side long axle, this is the one I got from Autotech, killer deal, new complete
german loebro axle, listed on their site under the clearance section. I think I got this for
110.00 shipped.

[Road Boss]

I need to get one of those down pipes.

[Eric24v]

as mentioned, sick build.

Why no euro 50mm manifold? I forget which cams you're going with, so if they're the stockers, nevermind..

[Sr. Karmann]

thanks, now I know I can take it off since I'm going MegaSquirt

I'm always a huge fan of removing/cutting brackets to save weight, but do have the question. Are you going to run knocksence?

http://www.viatrack.ca/

[chadr]

I've been running knocksense with ms. Nice to be able to see and log any knock, even when you can't hear it in the car. I have a red led on the dash too just so I can see it happening. I ran a tank of regular gas because I wasn't planning on pushing it, but there was detonation that would happen at certain times until I filled back up with premium. It certainly seems to be an accurate, inexpensive device.

[Sr. Karmann]

I've been running knocksense with ms. Nice to be able to see and log any knock, even when you can't hear it in the car. I have a red led on the dash too just so I can see it happening. I ran a tank of regular gas because I wasn't planning on pushing it, but there was detonation that would happen at certain times until I filled back up with premium. It certainly seems to be an accurate, inexpensive device.

[16ValveInside]

as mentioned, sick build.

Why no euro 50mm manifold? I forget which cams you're going with, so if they're the stockers, nevermind..

Thanks,

I'm running the AutoTech Sport Cams, and I'm using a stock 42mm intake that is in like new condition. I purchased it used from Autotech, it was used on one of their test engines and they purchased it new years ago.

I don't think the 50mm delivers enough "bang for the buck", all the gains are at high rpms. Plus you get softer low end and not as much torque.

[16ValveInside]

I'm always a huge fan of removing/cutting brackets to save weight, but do have the question. Are you going to run knocksence?

http://www.viatrack.ca/

I did not think you needed a knock sensor with a NA Megasquirt install, might be worth checking into, thanks for the link

[Sr. Karmann]

I did not think you needed a knock sensor with a NA Megasquirt install, might be worth checking into, thanks for the link

No problem, and it is not required if you wanna play it safe, but to tune to the max it is a real good idea

[MEGA 16v GLI]

No problem, and it is not required if you wanna play it safe, but to tune to the max it is a real good idea

Haha i think running the Knocksense would be "playing it safe" regardless if you are going to tune for max power or not. The stock EMS systems on are 16v's have knock sensors for a reason.

Us NOOB's need all the help we can get but i'm really glad you posted the link (Sr. Karmann). Its cool how you have the option of having knocksense connected to MS. I think i am going to hook up a buzzer instead of a red LED blinking light for knock/ping warning.

[Aggro Crag]

AHH! I just read both your build threads and then.. nothing for 9 months.

Subscribing, hoping for a megasquirt mega update

[16ValveInside]

working on getting the right fittings for fuel lines right now, got almost everything I need to go from the plastic fuel lines at the firewall (this was a digi II 8V car originally) to the ross fuel rail and then back from the fpr to the returrn line. Got a fuel pressue gauge in there also. update soon.

[16ValveInside]

Update:
Got the Bosch Fuel Injectors that I'm using cleaned and tested and Installed.





Fuel lines - this was a original 91 GTI digi II 8v car and that means it has the plastic fuel lines with the metal insert in the ends. When searching fuel line info I read somewhere on here that somebody used 1/4" fuel injection hose over ths plastic fuel lines with a clamp. No way, its to tight, you might get down far enough to put a clamp on it, but I wanted to get it down to the first bump where the origianl fuel line stopped. to do this you have to use the OE size fuel line which is 7mm ID X 13mm OD, 7mm internal diameter, 3mm wall thickness high pressure fuel line. German Auto Parts has it (of course they do) and its made in germany.

Next issue is going from OE fuel line to a -4AN fitting, including a fuel pressure gauge, and then ending up at a -6an 180 degree fitting going into the fuel rail, and what a pain it was.

In the hours it took to find the fittings I needed I found a really cool Earls fuel pressure gauge bracket with a T fitting that I wanted to use because I could also use it to make the transition from -4an to -6an.



Then the question was where to mount it. After playing around with different locations I noticed this bracket:



The 2 studs lined up perfectly with the ones for the bracket just had to make the holes a little bigger and the position worked out great.



The T-fitting that came with the bracket is NPT thread for the gauge and -6AN on each end.
I used a -6AN to -4AN adapter at the top to a -4AN 180 degree to barb fitting to connect to the fuel line. The clamp at the fitting is a 2 ear Oetiker Clamp.



The clamp for the rubber line to OE plastic line is a Wurth fuel injection hose clamp. At the bottom I used a -6AN to 90 degree 3/8" barb fitting with 3/8"fuel injection hose that goes to a -6AN 180 degree 3/8" barb fitting at the fuel rail. Both ends of the 3/8" fuel injection hose are secured using single ear Oetiker clamps. -6AN is 6/16" (3/8").





installed

[20v_boost]

Damn, everything is so nice and clean! I gotta say though, I'm not a fan of the crimp clamps nor the screw clamps (when I'm doing them at least). You could have used something like this to go from the OE plastic tube http://www.fluidsystemsengineering.c...&cat=14&page=6 You just have to make sure you get one for the OD of your tube. From there you could screw straight into your gauge adapter.

Either way, when done right, I'm sure those crimp bands work. Nice build.

-Alex

[16ValveInside]

Damn, everything is so nice and clean! I gotta say though, I'm not a fan of the crimp clamps nor the screw clamps (when I'm doing them at least). You could have used something like this to go from the OE plastic tube http://www.fluidsystemsengineering.c...&cat=14&page=6 You just have to make sure you get one for the OD of your tube. From there you could screw straight into your gauge adapter.

Either way, when done right, I'm sure those crimp bands work. Nice build.

-Alex

thanks, and thanks for the link

[MEGA 16v GLI]

How is the MS Setup coming along 16ValveInside?