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    Thread: '00 VW jetta VR6 A/C not working...help please

    1. Member
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      06-14-2011 04:16 PM #1
      Hello everyone,

      I have no cold air

      I have the VW manual and have read and re-read this forum with no success. Help...

      I have:

      Checked fuses inside of car and on top of battery=good
      Checked and wire brushed all 3 ground terminals beneath battery plate(which were not corroded)
      Replaced the FCM
      Replaced coolant(small) fan --unrelated, I was told it was bad, so I replaced it along w/radiator (cracked plastic flange issue)
      Hooked speaker wire from battery to thermoswitch and both fans work on low and high speeds
      Hooked speaker wire from battery to Compressor/Clutch connector and it clicks --I could turn the pulley with my hand w/o power applied and felt resistance w/power. So that means both the clutch and the compressor are good? or just the clutch coil.
      How can I test the compressor w/o taking it off? Or were the pulleys suppose to turn when I applied power thus indicating whether the compressor was bad?
      I jumped w/paperclip the terminals on the high pressure sensor and both fans came on high speed but not the compressor. Should I replace the sensor? Should not the compressor have come on? the Meineke guy said compressors rarely go...that the clutches are what goes. Same for VWs?
      Got Meineke to check pressure of coolant, but they said you can't check the pressure unless the compressor is working They did pull the coolant to see how much was in the system. They said it was a little low(3/4 lbs) and topped it off.

      How about the ambient temperature sensor---could that be the problem?
      the thermoswitch?
      the A/C thermal cut-out switch? (which I could not find btw) even w/ the manual.
      the A/C relay?
      high pressure sensor?
      the wiring?

      I'm out of ideas, any help would be greatly appreciated

      Thanks,
      Greg

    2. Member MasterNele03's Avatar
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      06-15-2011 10:38 AM #2
      Quote Originally Posted by gbagby View Post
      I have:

      Hooked speaker wire from battery to thermoswitch and both fans work on low and high speeds
      -Your fans are working which is good, but you need to check if they are coming on when you turn the A/C on. They should even though the A/C may not necessarily be working.
      Hooked speaker wire from battery to Compressor/Clutch connector and it clicks --I could turn the pulley with my hand w/o power applied and felt resistance w/power. So that means both the clutch and the compressor are good? or just the clutch coil. -That ressitance is just the clutch coil the compressor internals may be faulty therefore no turning (that's what happen to mine)
      How can I test the compressor w/o taking it off? Or were the pulleys suppose to turn when I applied power thus indicating whether the compressor was bad? -You can test the psi of the low pressure line and that will tell you if the compressor is working. If the psi is too high then the compressor is bad. If it's too low then you need to add freon. The pulley spins all the time when the car is running and when you turn the A/c on that's when the clutch will engage and begin to spin. This however does not necessarily mean the compressor is working.
      I jumped w/paperclip the terminals on the high pressure sensor and both fans came on high speed but not the compressor. Should I replace the sensor?-No Should not the compressor have come on?-No the Meineke guy said compressors rarely go...that the clutches are what goes. Same for VWs?-This is usally true for the majority of car manufacturers
      Got Meineke to check pressure of coolant, but they said you can't check the pressure unless the compressor is working They did pull the coolant to see how much was in the system. They said it was a little low(3/4 lbs) and topped it off. -You can test it but it doesn't matter as long as the car isn't overheating.

      How about the ambient temperature sensor---could that be the problem?-very unlikely
      the thermoswitch?-very unlikely
      the A/C thermal cut-out switch? (which I could not find btw) even w/ the manual.-doesn't have one
      the A/C relay?-possible, but if you tell us that the clutch engages when the car is running and the air isn't getting cool that will exclude this possibilty
      high pressure sensor?-need to check psi level with a gauge
      the wiring?-No

      ***All lot of this will be negated solely on the fact is the car is running and your turn the A/C on does the clutch in fact engage. Also what is the psi level on the low side of the system when this is happening. Let us know those results and I can narrow it down to one of three things: 1. The compressor (which is my guess, as that's what happen to me). 2. The clutch (I doubt b/c it's engaging) 3. Freon level is out of wack (poissibily)
      Hope this helps
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      06-15-2011 01:18 PM #3
      Thanks alot for getting back to me. I should mention that the car has 170K miles on it. What's the life expectancy of a vw compressor anyway?

      Let's see, just checked the fans. Neither come on after just starting the car(not warmed up to operating temps)with the a/c button on and the blower motor fan switch on to full. Not good?

      Even though I ordered a new(and working?)fan control module off of ebay for $70 (Autopartpro) is it possible they sent me one that doesn't work. Hence not allowing my a/c to work? I found the article to test all 14 pins/4 pins in the forum. I could go buy a multimeter and check them. All I have is a test light pen.

      I tested(w/a borrowed multimeter) the ohms on the compressor and got 4.1 which according to that guy mike is within the allowable range of 3-5 ohms. Doesn't that mean my compressor is good?

      I hooked a wire from the battery to the compressor with the car running(unplugged coil switch) and the inner pulley turned. I didn't hear a noise coming from the compressor. But then, would I? I only remember the click/klunk sound and a drop in rpms lastyear when it worked. It also made an occasional sound like Rudolph the reindeer's nose when it lit up. Related to a failing a/c compressor? A vw specialist didn't think so. But it hasn't always made that sound. It's abnormal. I don't think either noise or drop in rpms happened yesterday when I did this. I think I was concentrating on the spinning pulley belt next to my fingers though. I could do it again.

      About checking the pressure...I don't have a gauge. I guess I could go back to Meineke and get them to read it. What psi is low/high? the manual/forum reads about 30psi. The mechanics at Meineke said they couldn't get a reading on pressure because the compressor doesn't come on to create the pressure... Is this true? They said they pulled the freon to see how much the system contained and it was a little low. 3/4 lb. And that they topped it off. So, now will the pressure reading be accurate?

      Btw, the clutch does NOT engage with the car running and the a/c switch and blower fan on!!!
      It seems to me the compressor is not getting power. Because the fan control module or a/c relay is bad?

    4. Member MasterNele03's Avatar
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      06-15-2011 03:46 PM #4
      Quote Originally Posted by gbagby View Post
      Thanks alot for getting back to me. I should mention that the car has 170K miles on it. What's the life expectancy of a vw compressor anyway? - As long as you maintain it, should be quite a while (100k-150k). Mine went at just above 100k, so your lasted quite a while.

      Let's see, just checked the fans. Neither come on after just starting the car(not warmed up to operating temps)with the a/c button on and the blower motor fan switch on to full. Not good? - Even though the car hasn't warmed up yet the fan should still come on when you have the A/C button on.

      Even though I ordered a new(and working?)fan control module off of ebay for $70 (Autopartpro) is it possible they sent me one that doesn't work. Hence not allowing my a/c to work? -Yes, it could be defective(unlikely but possible) what could have happened is they sent you the wrong one. Just be srue that the part numbers match.I found the article to test all 14 pins/4 pins in the forum. I could go buy a multimeter and check them. All I have is a test light pen.

      I tested(w/a borrowed multimeter) the ohms on the compressor and got 4.1 which according to that guy mike is within the allowable range of 3-5 ohms. Doesn't that mean my compressor is good? Not necessarily, what it means is that the compressor is getting power, it still may not be spinning the blades inside. The power of the compressor operates teh magnet which is what engages the clutch as long as the psi level is within spec.

      I hooked a wire from the battery to the compressor with the car running(unplugged coil switch) and the inner pulley turned. I didn't hear a noise coming from the compressor. But then, would I? answer --> I only remember the click/klunk sound and a drop in rpms lastyear when it worked. It also made an occasional sound like Rudolph the reindeer's nose when it lit up. Related to a failing a/c compressor? -I don't know about failing but it's not suppose to do that. A vw specialist didn't think so. But it hasn't always made that sound. It's abnormal. I don't think either noise or drop in rpms happened yesterday when I did this. I think I was concentrating on the spinning pulley belt next to my fingers though. I could do it again.

      About checking the pressure...I don't have a gauge. I guess I could go back to Meineke and get them to read it. What psi is low/high? You should have between 30 psi and 55 psi. the closer to 55 the better as it will cool as quick as possible without being overfilled. the manual/forum reads about 30psi. The mechanics at Meineke said they couldn't get a reading on pressure because the compressor doesn't come on to create the pressure... Is this true? Yes, but what they need to do in order to get an accurate reading is vaccuum all the old freon and other gases, then fill it with fresh freon They said they pulled the freon to see how much the system contained and it was a little low. 3/4 lb.That's very low And that they topped it off. So, now will the pressure reading be accurate? Only if you can get the compressor going, if you can't then there's no use in filling it, b/c the compressor isn't going to move the freon.

      Btw, the clutch does NOT engage with the car running and the a/c switch and blower fan on!!!
      It seems to me the compressor is not getting power. Because the fan control module or a/c relay is bad?Check the relay, if that's good then the switch on the compressor may be bad and I believe it's internal I'll see if I can find out in my Bentley Manual.
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      06-16-2011 02:30 AM #5
      How exactly does one test the a/c relay? a multimeter...? or test light? smelling for burned electrical smell?

      Thx again.

    6. Member MasterNele03's Avatar
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      06-16-2011 11:59 AM #6
      You can use a multimeter or a test light. To test you will need to locate the trigger wire that goes out of the relay to the harness for the compressor. Turn the car on and turn the a/c on. Once you have that done check the pin off of the relay if your getting a reading then the relay is good if not then replace the relay.
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      06-17-2011 12:40 AM #7
      I took my car to a VW specialist(Auto Haus in Va. Beach, VA---they rebuilt my tranny) today to get the a/c looked at.

      They said the high pressure sensor isn't working. And the compressor is shot(makes a grinding noise of internal parts) though it does work. ??? Said it won't last. Duh! nothing does, but i don't want to drop $600 on something that will work. They said they checked the pressure on the high side and it was 250 psi. Norm is 230 ish. they said something's in the line. I asked can't you evacuate and refill to fix it? He said no. Or it might work, but it won't last. ? Mechanic sales pitch? I think it's original and if so it has 170K miles on it.

      My thoughts are to order a new high pressure sensor and replace it to see if my compressor will then work. Until it quits. Is it possible to replace it without having to evacuate the system? And do I need a new o-ring as well?

      The other thing to consider is for me to order a remanufactured or new compressor/clutch, dryer, and expansion valve, oil and do the work myself. Except the evacuate/fill part. Should cost about $600 I think parts and evac/charge. Sound right?

    8. Member VR6JETTA4u1998's Avatar
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      06-17-2011 09:11 PM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by gbagby View Post
      I took my car to a VW specialist(Auto Haus in Va. Beach, VA---they rebuilt my tranny) today to get the a/c looked at.

      They said the high pressure sensor isn't working. And the compressor is shot(makes a grinding noise of internal parts) though it does work. ??? Said it won't last. Duh! nothing does, but i don't want to drop $600 on something that will work. They said they checked the pressure on the high side and it was 250 psi. Norm is 230 ish. they said something's in the line. I asked can't you evacuate and refill to fix it? He said no. Or it might work, but it won't last. ? Mechanic sales pitch? I think it's original and if so it has 170K miles on it.

      My thoughts are to order a new high pressure sensor and replace it to see if my compressor will then work. Until it quits. Is it possible to replace it without having to evacuate the system? And do I need a new o-ring as well?

      The other thing to consider is for me to order a remanufactured or new compressor/clutch, dryer, and expansion valve, oil and do the work myself. Except the evacuate/fill part. Should cost about $600 I think parts and evac/charge. Sound right?
      I was gettinga quote of like $750 for parts, labor and refill. So I lookked on;ine and this place on Ebay (air_parts) sales everything, new compressor/clutch, dryer, and expansion valve and got it all for $230 with shiping.

      They did forget my o-ring kit, but she sent it out as soon as I told her as priority and should be here Sat and let the fun begain.

      Also here is an ok write up.

      http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=146151

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      06-18-2011 11:16 PM #9
      Thanks, I'll check it out. There is also a write up w/ pics on the forum btw. By FaelinGL. google," '99 jetta airconditioning doesn't blow cold".

      Can anyone tell me if the high pressure sensor can be replaced w/o evacuating the system?

      I ordered one from ECS and it should be here Monday.

    10. Member MasterNele03's Avatar
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      06-19-2011 12:33 AM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by gbagby View Post
      I took my car to a VW specialist(Auto Haus in Va. Beach, VA---they rebuilt my tranny) today to get the a/c looked at.

      They said the high pressure sensor isn't working. And the compressor is shot(makes a grinding noise of internal parts) though it does work. ??? Said it won't last. Duh! nothing does, but i don't want to drop $600 on something that will work. They said they checked the pressure on the high side and it was 250 psi. Norm is 230 ish. they said something's in the line. I asked can't you evacuate and refill to fix it? He said no. Or it might work, but it won't last. ? Mechanic sales pitch? I think it's original and if so it has 170K miles on it. - They can evacuate it out and then fill it up, that shouldn't be a problem.

      My thoughts are to order a new high pressure sensor and replace it to see if my compressor will then work. Until it quits. Is it possible to replace it without having to evacuate the system? - No And do I need a new o-ring as well? - if you take out any lines then yes you need new o-rings

      The other thing to consider is for me to order a remanufactured or new compressor/clutch, dryer, and expansion valve, oil and do the work myself. Except the evacuate/fill part. Should cost about $600 I think parts and evac/charge. Sound right? - A little high even with a new compressor
      Quote Originally Posted by VR6JETTA4u1998 View Post
      I was gettinga quote of like $750 for parts, labor and refill. So I lookked on;ine and this place on Ebay (air_parts) sales everything, new compressor/clutch, dryer, and expansion valve and got it all for $230 with shiping - Good price even if it was reman.

      They did forget my o-ring kit, but she sent it out as soon as I told her as priority and should be here Sat and let the fun begain.

      Also here is an ok write up.

      http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=146151
      Quote Originally Posted by gbagby View Post
      Thanks, I'll check it out. There is also a write up w/ pics on the forum btw. By FaelinGL. google," '99 jetta airconditioning doesn't blow cold".

      Can anyone tell me if the high pressure sensor can be replaced w/o evacuating the system?- No, if you take it out high pressure freon will come out at you, not fun.

      I ordered one from ECS and it should be here Monday.
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      06-19-2011 11:59 PM #11
      Thanks again for all of your feedback...so I see Buyautoparts.com sells an a/c kit. Looks great and for $365!!! New compressor, thermal expansion valve, dryer, pag oil and gaskets. Chinese I think. Anybody know what the quality is like? Longetivity?
      http://www.buyautoparts.com/buynow/2...-80135_RK.html

      I plan on going with it. Getting the system evacuated and then replace everything myself. Then go back and get Meineke to fill the system. The only thing I haven't figured out is how to blow out my empty lines. I don't have an air compressor or nitrogen. And the forum mentions clearing out the lines of old stuff. the mechanic I took my car to said something is in the lines clogging and creating too high pressure. Perhaps only inside the compressor? The metal breakdown of the oil/coolant (ie black death). Apparently, there is line clearing can of solvent which can clean debris/buildup and then follow that up with air then nitrogen to get rid of moisture. Or will it be enough just to use the solvent and air? then get the system charged? And let the dryer do its job?

    12. Member MasterNele03's Avatar
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      06-20-2011 12:07 AM #12
      Quote Originally Posted by gbagby View Post
      Thanks again for all of your feedback...so I see Buyautoparts.com sells an a/c kit. Looks great and for $365!!! New compressor, thermal expansion valve, dryer, pag oil and gaskets. Chinese I think. Anybody know what the quality is like? Longetivity? - Seems fine to me.


      I plan on going with it. Getting the system evacuated and then replace everything myself. Then go back and get Meineke to fill the system. The only thing I haven't figured out is how to blow out my empty lines. I don't have an air compressor or nitrogen. And the forum mentions clearing out the lines of old stuff. the mechanic I took my car to said something is in the lines clogging and creating too high pressure. Perhaps only inside the compressor? The metal breakdown of the oil/coolant (ie black death). Apparently, there is line clearing can of solvent which can clean debris/buildup and then follow that up with air then nitrogen to get rid of moisture. Or will it be enough just to use the solvent and air? then get the system charged? And let the dryer do its job?- This should suffice.
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      06-21-2011 12:06 AM #13
      So I called Meineke to ask what an evacuate/refill costs. And the guy says $160-170...does that sound about right?

      Since, I was told that something(oil/residue)is in the system causing unacceptable high pressure. I assume it needs be cleaned out. BUT how?

      The Meineke guy said putting it on the vaccuum for 30 mins will suck everything out. What if it doesn't? That means I gotta pay for another evac/refill? And then, take everything off, and back flush the system with a cleaning solvent followed by compressed air to push the solvent thru the lines. Then Nitrogen? then refill again.

      Or is all of this necessary? Will a vaccuum work? I mean the condensor could be gummed up beyond repair too right? So, I might have to replace that? No real way of knowing if the system is completely clean. Should I get a prefilter to prevent my new compressor from being damaged? In the event that some old gue is in the system and releases into it.

      The Bentley manual suggests using a solvent, compressed air and Nitrogen.
      AND the a/c kit company Buyautoparts.com website install video also suggest the same.

      ?

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      06-21-2011 11:22 AM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by gbagby View Post
      So I called Meineke to ask what an evacuate/refill costs. And the guy says $160-170...does that sound about right? -No way too high, it should be $80 tops

      Since, I was told that something(oil/residue)is in the system causing unacceptable high pressure. I assume it needs be cleaned out. BUT how? -Once you get it vaccuumed it'll be clean

      The Meineke guy said putting it on the vaccuum for 30 mins will suck everything out. What if it doesn't? That means I gotta pay for another evac/refill? And then, take everything off, and back flush the system with a cleaning solvent followed by compressed air to push the solvent thru the lines. Then Nitrogen? then refill again. - The vaccuum should get everything out that's in there especially b/c your pressure really isn't to far off from being normal so it's probably something miniscul.

      Or is all of this necessary? Will a vaccuum work? -Yes it should be fine for what your going through. I mean the condensor could be gummed up beyond repair too right? - Unlikely b/c then you would be having other issues and youwould see the ill effects happening on the surface of the codenser aswell So, I might have to replace that? No real way of knowing if the system is completely clean. Should I get a prefilter to prevent my new compressor from being damaged? - Once you have it vaccuumed it should be fine so no need really, you can if you want. In the event that some old gue is in the system and releases into it.

      The Bentley manual suggests using a solvent, compressed air and Nitrogen.
      AND the a/c kit company Buyautoparts.com website install video also suggest the same.

      ?- If your are going to use a solvent/Co2/Nitrogen it will help with clean but I don't believe it's necessary
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      06-21-2011 01:29 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by MasterNele03 View Post
      I am with Master, that price is up there. I looked online the other day and you can buy the whole AC vacume kit that includes gages for $150.00. Now I am not sure how great this will be, but if it vacuums, then I would say it’s good enough. Just leave it on for longer. Try looking at tire Kingdome or some other places around; you will be surprise who has evac systems.

      If you do decide to do the solvent cleaning they sell it at Advance Auto parts, then you use a can of compress air to clean it out. Again I am will Master, I think the vacuum is going to take care of this for you. Also if that place is only going to leave it for 30 min, you might want to go for sure to a different place. I cannot speak from experience, but everything I read says at least an hour or longer.

      So you got the Bentley manual. Is it help full? I have been kicking the idea around buying one. Also does it give anything good on getting to the compressor or tips?


      I am digging into mine tonight. These 100+ days is not a very pleasant drive to work and back.

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      06-22-2011 12:30 AM #16
      Thanks guys, for the input. I was planning on calling 2 other sources to compare prices. That rocks if its like $80!

      As for the Bentley Manual...It has a lot of great pictures(diagrams rather--- in black and white). It's big. Covers 7 yrs., 3 models and 5 engine types. And it does contain information. And some helpful tips. But, I thought it was going to be procedures in great detail. DIY detail you know and it doesn't. VW Vortex is crucial in that respect because of the colored photos for me and the step by step. I've replaced my inner/outer tie rods, window regulator, trunk lock mechanism, radiator, engine coolant sensor, coolant fan, and rear brakes and rotors thanks to it. Bravo Vortex. Still, I think it's worth the $75 bones if you do alot of the work on your car.

      Concerning, the compressor. check out the vw vortex DIY forum. It has a great picture/step-by step on removing the front bumper, and lock carrier. Looks like trouble, but it's really not. It takes like 30 mins/max to pull the bumper off and to loosen the lock carrier bolts. To get to the compressor and/or alternator. I spent more time than that trying to remove that stupid alternator. Because someone on vortex said, "it's take some work, but it will come out". Nonsense, that was so aggravating and I could NOT get it out after playing geometric puzzle with it for more than 30 mins. Very exhausting to hold that thing for that long laying on your back btw. Once I had the bumper off, and loosened the carrier lock 4 bolts it took seconds to pull the alternator out!!!!

      Today I pulled out my headliner and replaced it. Took video from my new Flip but don't know how or where to load it. Don't think Vortex has that capability. Is You tube my only option? I'd like to include it here.

      Oh, and about the high pressure sensor...the manual mentions that the high pressure "switch" (different than my car) can be taken off w/o evacuating the system. Because it has a Schrader(bike) valve on the fitting. And the high pressure "sensor" (same as my car) looks similar in the diagram.? Does it also have a Schrader Valve?

      Another topic of discussion is my gas mileage. I seem to be getting poor mileage now. 270miles/tank vs. 330/tank. Do I need new spark plugs? New O2 sensor? Or something else? Or is my car just worn valve-wise(internally)? Will gas additives to clean the valves help? I did get new tires. Continental DWSs. But they're also high performance all-seasons like the Michelin MXV4 Energys I had on before.

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      06-22-2011 12:31 AM #17
      Thanks guys, for the input. I was planning on calling 2 other sources to compare prices. That rocks if its like $80! I don't remember if the mechanic said the high pressure was 250 or 350 psi. If it were 350psi that would be significant? or still meniscule?

      As for the Bentley Manual...It has a lot of great pictures(diagrams rather--- in black and white). It's big. Covers 7 yrs., 3 models and 5 engine types. And it does contain information. And some helpful tips. But, I thought it was going to be procedures in great detail. DIY detail you know and it doesn't. VW Vortex is crucial in that respect because of the colored photos for me and the step by step. I've replaced my inner/outer tie rods, window regulator, trunk lock mechanism, radiator, engine coolant sensor, coolant fan, and rear brakes and rotors thanks to it. Bravo Vortex. Still, I think it's worth the $75 bones if you do alot of the work on your car. Concerning, the compressor. check out the vw vortex forum. It has a great picture/step-by step on removing the front bumper, and lock carrier. Looks like trouble, but it's really not. It takes like 30 mins/max to pull the bumper off and to loosen the lock carrier bolts. To get to the compressor and/or alternator. I spent more time than that trying to remove that stupid alternator. Because someone on vortex said, "it's take some work, but it will come out". Nonsense, that was so aggravating and I could NOT get it out after playing geometric puzzle with it for more than 30 mins. Very exhausting to hold that thing for that long laying on your back btw. Once I had the bumper off, and loosened the carrier lock 4 bolts it took seconds to pull the alternator out!!!!

      Today I pulled out my headliner and replaced it. Took video from my new Flip but don't know how or where to load it. Don't think Vortex has that capability. Is You tube my only option? I'd like to include it here.

      Oh, and about the high pressure sensor...the manual mentions that the high pressure "switch" (different than my car) can be taken off w/o evacuating the system. Because it has a Schrader(bike) valve on the fitting. And the high pressure "sensor" (same as my car) looks similar in the diagram.? Does it also have a Schrader Valve?

      Another topic of discussion is my gas mileage. I seem to be getting poor mileage now. 270miles/tank vs. 330/tank. Do I need new spark plugs? New O2 sensor? Or something else? Or is my car just worn valve-wise(internally)? Will gas additives to clean the valves help? I did get new tires. Continental DWSs. But they're also high performance all-seasons like the Michelin MXV4 Energys I had on before.

    18. Member MasterNele03's Avatar
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      06-22-2011 09:04 AM #18
      Quote Originally Posted by gbagby View Post
      Thanks guys, for the input. I was planning on calling 2 other sources to compare prices. That rocks if its like $80! I don't remember if the mechanic said the high pressure was 250 or 350 psi. If it were 350psi that would be significant? or still meniscule? - That would be significant

      As for the Bentley Manual...It has a lot of great pictures(diagrams rather--- in black and white). It's big. Covers 7 yrs., 3 models and 5 engine types. And it does contain information. And some helpful tips. But, I thought it was going to be procedures in great detail. DIY detail you know and it doesn't. VW Vortex is crucial in that respect because of the colored photos for me and the step by step. I've replaced my inner/outer tie rods, window regulator, trunk lock mechanism, radiator, engine coolant sensor, coolant fan, and rear brakes and rotors thanks to it. Bravo Vortex. Still, I think it's worth the $75 bones if you do alot of the work on your car. - Agreed, I have one aswell escpet mines in a digital PDF Concerning, the compressor. check out the vw vortex forum. It has a great picture/step-by step on removing the front bumper, and lock carrier. Looks like trouble, but it's really not. It takes like 30 mins/max to pull the bumper off and to loosen the lock carrier bolts. To get to the compressor and/or alternator. I spent more time than that trying to remove that stupid alternator. Because someone on vortex said, "it's take some work, but it will come out". Nonsense, that was so aggravating and I could NOT get it out after playing geometric puzzle with it for more than 30 mins. Very exhausting to hold that thing for that long laying on your back btw. Once I had the bumper off, and loosened the carrier lock 4 bolts it took seconds to pull the alternator out!!!!

      Today I pulled out my headliner and replaced it. Took video from my new Flip but don't know how or where to load it. Don't think Vortex has that capability. Is You tube my only option? I'd like to include it here. - You could upload it to Youtube and then embed the code on a post here and it will display the video on here.

      Oh, and about the high pressure sensor...the manual mentions that the high pressure "switch" (different than my car) can be taken off w/o evacuating the system. Because it has a Schrader(bike) valve on the fitting. And the high pressure "sensor" (same as my car) looks similar in the diagram.? Does it also have a Schrader Valve? - No, that's why you can replace it w/o evac

      Another topic of discussion is my gas mileage. I seem to be getting poor mileage now. 270miles/tank vs. 330/tank. Do I need new spark plugs? New O2 sensor? Or something else? Or is my car just worn valve-wise(internally)? Will gas additives to clean the valves help? I did get new tires. Continental DWSs. But they're also high performance all-seasons like the Michelin MXV4 Energys I had on before. - It could be new plugs(depends on the last time you changed them) but as your engine is getting older it becomes less efficient by loss of compression and just sensors not reading entirely accurately. It's just little things like that, as long as your not having any major issues with the engine running and there's no CEL on then it's just cause the engine has 170k on it. You could check the duty cycle of the O2 sensors and see if it's running up to par with the vagcom.
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      06-23-2011 01:06 AM #19
      Hey, do you know what my car would be like if I put new oem shocks, struts, control arm, control arm bushings, and strut bushings on? And do springs go bad?

      I'm wondering if my car would be like night and day. When going over bumps, it's very noisy, bumpy and rough. I bought the car @ 89K. and it's always been kind of rough(with stock everything).

      Is it worth spending the money? Will I get a more quiet and smooth ride then? And will it handle better? With less spongy feel in the steering?

    20. Member VR6JETTA4u1998's Avatar
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      06-23-2011 02:04 PM #20
      Quote Originally Posted by gbagby View Post
      Hey, do you know what my car would be like if I put new oem shocks, struts, control arm, control arm bushings, and strut bushings on? And do springs go bad? I would not go OEM, but thats just me. You can get performance lowiring kits and they ride reall smooth, that is if you dont have some over size wheels and don't go to low. Other wise you will start rubbing, but like the old saying goes, "if your not rubbing, your not dubing."

      I'm wondering if my car would be like night and day. When going over bumps, it's very noisy, bumpy and rough. I bought the car @ 89K. and it's always been kind of rough(with stock everything).

      Is it worth spending the money? Will I get a more quiet and smooth ride then? And will it handle better? Affter market yes...

      With less spongy feel in the steering?

      So I finally got all my parts instaled for the A/C, now ttime to put the poor thing back togeather and go get it vacumed and reffild.

    21. Member MasterNele03's Avatar
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      06-23-2011 02:33 PM #21
      Quote Originally Posted by gbagby View Post
      Hey, do you know what my car would be like if I put new oem shocks, struts, control arm, control arm bushings, and strut bushings on? And do springs go bad? - No need for the control arm unless yours is bent or something like that from an accident or something. The control arm bushings are a good upgrade and I'd suggest getting the OEM R32/TT bushings for the control arm. They are way better than the OEM ones that come with the jetta's and golf's and they are pretty cheap too ($35) With those you will feel less slop when braking and turning as the subframe is not moving as much anymore. IMO if your shocks/struts have never been replaced then your quite overdue as they are only good for between 60k-100k depending on driving style and road conditions. When you replace the shocks/ struts get new strut bushings for the front those should be changed just as frequently as the struts sometimes sooner if they get noisy. Springs usually don't go bad unless they are rusted beyond repair, but you can either get a really low-budget cup-kit and that will give you the ride you want or you can even go with an OEM GLI suspension. A little tighter and has a slightly higher spring rate, you can grab one cheap aswell.

      I'm wondering if my car would be like night and day. When going over bumps, it's very noisy, bumpy and rough. I bought the car @ 89K. and it's always been kind of rough(with stock everything). - Rough? As in how? Like too stiff or sloppy?

      Is it worth spending the money? - Up to you, depends what your looking for in the car Will I get a more quiet and smooth ride then? And will it handle better? With less spongy feel in the steering? - The control arm bushings with some ball joints and maybe tie-rod ends will address spongy steering (also keep in mind good tires) as far as handling a good cup kit or a GLI suspension will yield a smooth ride and fairly good handling. If you want better than that you'll have to address things such as the sway bars, higher end cup-kits/coilovers.
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      06-25-2011 03:36 AM #22
      Well, I just finished removing and installing my new compressor and dryer. Some 6 hrs. later. Of course doing it at night slowed things I'm sure. Though it was cooler... I got the front end off in like 20 mins. But getting at the top bolt of the compressor was tight and slow going. Fatigue was setting in too. Getting the top bolt out of the dryer was a beast. And I removed all 4 bolts on the lock carrier! I drilled through the top and made my own hole for an extension and the hex bolt. That made things alot faster. Then trying to get that dryer out was trying. I didn't know you could slide the half of the banjo bracket out. The oil that I poured out of my old compressor was dark yellow. But NOT black. So, maybe it will be ok not backflushing. I didn't do it. So we'll see tomorrow. I still have the expansion valve to remove and replace. Guessing an hr. at most.

      As for the suspension- I was looking at control arm bushings, strut mount bushings, and Bilstein OEM shock set at ECS tuning. Good choice? I don't want to have to lower the car. And that will be bumpier anyway. Not sure if my car is "sloppy" or "stiff". I bought the car at 89K and have always thought it was bumpy(due to tight sport suspension and short wheel base?) and at least lately think that bumps are not only bumpy but very noisy. I replaced the inner/outer tie rods recently. And that got rid of the vibrations on curves. I also just got all-season Continental DWSs which are suppose to be rated the highest on Tirerack.com. Better than Michelin. Softer, quiter ride., but I think that's why they feel spongy. Of course I have 35 psi in them. Because that's what the car's gas tank specs. read they should be. right? But the tires have " Max 50 psi. So I was thinking I'd try like 40-45 psi and see if that makes a difference.

      Oh, btw, I took off the high-pressure sensor. And it does have a Shrader-valve. So you can take it off w/o having to evac the system

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      06-25-2011 05:58 PM #23
      Back from Meineke and I now have functional a/c=cold air!! But, they did charge $195 including tax Not $80 bucks. For a grand total of $600. Better than $1200 quote I got
      Plus $70 for the high pressure sensor and $70 for the fan control module

      I still don't know if either of the old pieces were bad. I don't feel like swapping them out to try them.

      Breakdown: $ 80.00 for vacuum/charge
      $ 80.00 for R134a
      $ 25.00 for dye/check
      $ 10.00 for tax

      1.77 lbs of R134a I thought this would be cheaper --- another mechanic quoted $19.99/lb.

    24. Member VR6JETTA4u1998's Avatar
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      06-26-2011 11:16 AM #24
      Quote Originally Posted by gbagby View Post
      Back from Meineke and I now have functional a/c=cold air!! But, they did charge $195 including tax Not $80 bucks. For a grand total of $600. Better than $1200 quote I got
      Plus $70 for the high pressure sensor and $70 for the fan control module

      I still don't know if either of the old pieces were bad. I don't feel like swapping them out to try them.

      Breakdown: $ 80.00 for vacuum/charge
      $ 80.00 for R134a
      $ 25.00 for dye/check
      $ 10.00 for tax

      1.77 lbs of R134a I thought this would be cheaper --- another mechanic quoted $19.99/lb.
      Good stuff, glad to here you got it back. I find out tomorrow if all my hard work payed off. I take it into the shop tomorrow to get it vac/refilled. I hope it all works. I don't have to pay for the vac due to the shop charged me for the evac of thesystem beforoe I started, then when I broke the line open it was all still in there. Not good, after a few choice words with the manager, Now I just have to pay for the R134a. I am going to be standing there when they do the whole thing also. Iwould not even think about going back to this place, but they are so cheap. Looking a $35 giving me a total of $330.

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      06-26-2011 10:47 PM #25
      Wow, $330 for an evac/charge/w/dye? Or maybe I missed something. Good luck to you- hope all is well w/ your system. Until, the next job...suspension for me, I think. Gotta see if there is a DIY on that.

    26. Member VR6JETTA4u1998's Avatar
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      06-27-2011 10:39 AM #26
      Quote Originally Posted by gbagby View Post
      Wow, $330 for an evac/charge/w/dye? Or maybe I missed something. Good luck to you- hope all is well w/ your system. Until, the next job...suspension for me, I think. Gotta see if there is a DIY on that.
      Got it done today vac and re charged. I was with the tech and watching the whole process. The total for everything was $310. That was getting them tell me whats wrong, me replacing new Comp, new drier, o-ring kit, and then taking back to shop to get vacume and recharged. I allready had the expansion valve on hand so did not have to pay for a new one. Let the hot days come. lol


      Good luck with your suspension.

    27. Member VR6JETTA4u1998's Avatar
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      06-27-2011 09:08 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by VR6JETTA4u1998 View Post
      Got it done today vac and re charged. I was with the tech and watching the whole process. The total for everything was $310. That was getting them tell me whats wrong, me replacing new Comp, new drier, o-ring kit, and then taking back to shop to get vacume and recharged. I allready had the expansion valve on hand so did not have to pay for a new one. Let the hot days come. lol


      Good luck with your suspension.
      Ok, so I call myself stupid as well as the A/C tech helping me. Note to self and all else don't check A/C when its morning. This darn thing still blowing hot air. I am now thinking its up under the dash and something blocking the air from blowing into the car. Any tips on getting to the evaporator core under the dash?

    28. Member
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      06-28-2011 11:14 PM #28
      Are you sure you don't have a leak?
      Did you oil all the o-rings w/ pag oil?
      Maybe there's a leak/hole in your condensor?
      Did they put dye in the system to check for leaks?

      If so, and the system is still holding pressure then, it could be an air distribution flap controlling air flow under the dash I think. As far as getting to the evaporator...that's one for the manual.

      Do you have climatronic or manual knobs?

      There are some pics in the manual, but I can't seem to find anything related to getting to /removing the dash. I'm sure it's in here. I don't have a camera anyway to take pics for you. Let me know which version climatronic/manual and I'll search thoroughly for you.




      Quote Originally Posted by VR6JETTA4u1998 View Post
      Ok, so I call myself stupid as well as the A/C tech helping me. Note to self and all else don't check A/C when its morning. This darn thing still blowing hot air. I am now thinking its up under the dash and something blocking the air from blowing into the car. Any tips on getting to the evaporator core under the dash?

    29. Member
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      06-28-2011 11:22 PM #29
      I meant to ask...is the compressor spinning when the engine is running and the a/c button and fan speed knob are on?

      To make sure that the compressor is actually working. Is it possible that the compressor connection is disconnected? I unplugged mine when testing it and forgot to hook it back up. Even when I discovered this(while looking for the pressure release plug on the compressor) and hooked it back together it still didn't work. But it might be worth a look. If you don't see the compressor spinning counter-clockwise(toward the rear of the car) that is.

      Do any of the lines feel cold to the touch?

    30. Member VR6JETTA4u1998's Avatar
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      06-29-2011 06:44 AM #30
      Quote Originally Posted by gbagby View Post
      I meant to ask...is the compressor spinning when the engine is running and the a/c button and fan speed knob are on?

      To make sure that the compressor is actually working. Is it possible that the compressor connection is disconnected? I unplugged mine when testing it and forgot to hook it back up. Even when I discovered this(while looking for the pressure release plug on the compressor) and hooked it back together it still didn't work. But it might be worth a look. If you don't see the compressor spinning counter-clockwise(toward the rear of the car) that is.

      Do any of the lines feel cold to the touch?
      It is a manual control and that is what I am thinnking its not opining something. On the back side of the expansion valve it gets cold when I shut off the A/C. For the compressor, everything seems to be working fine on that part. It just sits there and then when I turn on the A/c the clutch engages and the fan comes on.
      That would be cool if you came across something with the dash digram and the shutter flap. I am at a lost. Thanks

    31. Member
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      07-02-2011 02:16 AM #31
      I looked in the Bentley manual again. This time for information pertaining to the "manual a/c system". I don't know what could be the issue unless it's a broken plastic part involved with one of the air distribution flaps or cables connected to the flaps. There are 3. One for each of the 3 control knobs on the car(right below the stereo).
      1-Central flap
      2-Footwell/defrost
      3-Heating and ventilation

      Or one of the cables attached to the flap is broken/not working(sliding)properly.

      To check, the manual reads," all air flaps must be heard to move onto end stops when operating controls". Turn the knobs like normal-without taking anything apart- and see if they sound right.
      If something doesn't sound right...check the cables.
      If you pull off the knob trim panel then you'll see the 4 screws that hold the control knobs panel in place. Pull knob assembly out to access the 3 cables. Move the cables back and forth(slide the wire in and out of the cable tube. Replace cables that are damaged or hard to move.

      If the flaps don't sound right the next step would be to get to the flaps at the end of the cables. Which appears to involve removing the dash, and a few other components.

    32. Member
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      07-02-2011 02:23 AM #32
      I looked in the Bentley manual again. This time for information pertaining to the "manual a/c system". I don't know what could be the issue unless it's a broken plastic part involved with one of the air distribution flaps or cables connected to the flaps. There are 3. One for each of the 3 control knobs on the car(right below the stereo).
      1-Central flap
      2-Footwell/defrost
      3-Heating and ventilation

      Or one of the cables attached to the flap is broken/not working(sliding)properly.

      To check, the manual reads," all air flaps must be heard to move onto end stops when operating controls". Turn the knobs like normal-without taking anything apart- and see if they sound right.
      If something doesn't sound right...check the cables.
      If you pull off the knob trim panel then you'll see the 4 screws that hold the control knobs panel in place. Pull knob assembly out to access the 3 cables. Move the cables back and forth(slide the wire in and out of the cable tube. Replace cables that are damaged or hard to move.

      If the flaps don't sound right the next step would be to get to the flaps at the end of the cables. Which appears to involve removing the dash, and a few other components.

    33. Member VR6JETTA4u1998's Avatar
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      07-02-2011 07:34 AM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by gbagby View Post
      I looked in the Bentley manual again. This time for information pertaining to the "manual a/c system". I don't know what could be the issue unless it's a broken plastic part involved with one of the air distribution flaps or cables connected to the flaps. There are 3. One for each of the 3 control knobs on the car(right below the stereo).
      1-Central flap
      2-Footwell/defrost
      3-Heating and ventilation

      Or one of the cables attached to the flap is broken/not working(sliding)properly.

      To check, the manual reads," all air flaps must be heard to move onto end stops when operating controls". Turn the knobs like normal-without taking anything apart- and see if they sound right.
      If something doesn't sound right...check the cables.
      If you pull off the knob trim panel then you'll see the 4 screws that hold the control knobs panel in place. Pull knob assembly out to access the 3 cables. Move the cables back and forth(slide the wire in and out of the cable tube. Replace cables that are damaged or hard to move.

      If the flaps don't sound right the next step would be to get to the flaps at the end of the cables. Which appears to involve removing the dash, and a few other components.
      Thanks for looking at this. I did come across something to show this, but everything look and felt good. So I took it back into the shop that vac and filled it for me. Well looks like I got a bad Compressor. I am getting like 73 on the low side and 110 onthe high side. the teck is saying its not pumping or the expanison valve is stuck open. I switch out the Expansion valve one more time, but did not work. So I contactedthe people I got the A/C comp from and they sending me a new one. So we will see if this works. I hope, but it gives me a chance to tear back into it and this time take out the SAI and replace it with the 42 draft plug.

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      07-08-2011 01:28 PM #34
      I have a related issue.

      Fans are on full(turn off when I pull the sensor), Clutch is disengaged, and the pressure on the low side reads SUPER HIGH in the red region on the pressure gauge around 150psi?

      I have no experience with the AC system but Im no slouch mechanically...

    35. Member erize's Avatar
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      07-09-2011 02:14 AM #35
      I had the same problem on the same car. I changed my Auxillary Fan Module. Bam!!!! Working like a champ!

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