I want to keep my Jetta alive.

[noodlesdefyyou]

I am fairly certain that this is the correct board to post this; however feel free to move it if necessary. I have a 97 Jetta (sadly, with a 2.0 non-turbo engine )

This car means a lot to me. It is the last thing my dad ever bought me before passing away. Picked it up for 1200 bucks back in October. I now realize why it was so cheap; he replaced the transmission but not the clutch cable. It snapped on me in Bowling Green, KY. 850 bucks later I had it fixed. It is my intention to do everything possible to keep this car for as long as possible. With only 156k miles, the engine is just starting to be broke in.

My long-term goals:
Redo paint job.
Custom Wheels.
Performance Suspension (not hi-performance, but not stock)
Custom Interior
Custom Sub woofer installation
Halo lights
Exhaust System
New Seats (The ones that are in it look like they blasted out of the 80's.)
Possibly find the 1.9 Turbo engine for it. Edit: I was an idiot here. The 1.9T is a diesel engine. NOT doing that swap . May eventually get a Kinetic Stage 3 Turbo kit after I research engine modification.

My short-term goals:
Replace all wheel bearings
Replace all tie-rods
Replace all ball joints
Replace rear shocks/struts
Replace muffler/exhaust tip (someone stole the one that was on it )
General mechanical maintenance.

My car sat for 6 months after I drove to Mississippi and back (when my clutch cable snapped in BG, KY) because I thought the rear caliper had seized up. Turns out it wasn't, but I already had it off so I replaced it. I also replaced the same tire's wheel bearings, as the dust cap came off somewhere and all the grease came out, causing the bearings to weld to the spindle.

You are probably reading this thinking "What the crap, this is an ego posting." Keep reading:

My questions to you, the readers of this post; is simply this:

Being paid bi-weekly about $400 or so, what are some of the best solutions to get the short-term goals achieved. The only parts store I really know about is Autozone, but there is most likely better parts online somewhere. The only parts site I know about is Carid.com, which is the interior/exhaust stuff. Keeping in mind I also have to get food, gas, and cigarettes. I know the most important things for me to fix RIGHT NOW are the tie rods. Should I also do the ball joints while I am there? Or can I get them later? The ball joints don't really need replacing right now, but the tie-rod is froze up from the salt on the roads here and I am fairly certain it has knocked itself loose. The rear end also sags, and I was thinking about getting these. Anyone know anything about them? Will I also need to get new coils?

I am also hearing a slight knocking sound from my driver side rear wheel (the same wheel I just replaced the bearings on). It wasn't there until I replaced the bearings. Could it just be my caliper or caliper mount not tightened tight enough? Could it be the rear suspension? The knocking seems to happen as the wheel turns a full rotation. At higher speeds I don't seem to notice it, but the wind may dampen the noise.

What is a good way to stop rust damage? I do plan on getting a new fresh metallic black (possibly even dark blue) paint job on it some time in the future, so just a quick fix for the rust is all I really need. There is some slight rust in the normal spots for a snow-driven car. Nothing that sticks out, but I notice it's there and would like to prevent what happened to my LeBaron from happening to my Jetta. My brother let the rust eat through the spoiler mounts and gas tank on the LeBaron. And on the bottom of the doors. It's really bad.

Most of the work I can do myself (and recruit a friend to help), it's just a matter of finding the tools I will need. I am not looking to make this a street racer or anything, just something to look nice, run well, and last a good 10 years or more.

Apart from what I have listed, are there any other suggestions I could do to help keep this car in tip-top shape?
Thanks in advance; and sorry for such a long post.



You can see here how the rear sags.



That rust is probably the most rust in a single spot on the car. The rest are just 'spots' here and there. It honestly looks like the guy tried to paint over the rust.

[vwishndaetr]

In my sig.

germanautoparts.com

mjmautohaus.com

Best people for parts. MJM has free shipping on a bunch of stuff. GAP is awesome and ships stupid fast with super ridiculously friendly service.

Get all the stuff there.

I did ball joints, tie rod ends, bearing on front of car 2 weeks ago. No need to be concerned about money. $120 +/- $10 will get you those parts. Install yourself to save $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.

As far as exhaust goes, all depends on whether you want OE or aftermarket performance. Tectonics is the way to go as far as exhaust goes.

Suspension. Everyone will say coilovers. But all depends on what you want, a cupkit may be a good option for you, or just buy some simple replacements until you have decent $$$ to do what you want/ "need".

Good luck. nice first post, you don't seem like a retard with an inflated ego.

Post pics.

[noodlesdefyyou]

Thanks for the links. I'll check out those brands, read up on them. I've mostly heard everyone going with Bilsten for the suspension, and Borla for the exhaust.

As far as the shock go (I will most likely replace them with my next check) I found these for a bit cheaper on the site you recommended. These are supposedly the OEM's for 40 bucks less. Might as well dish out the 40 bucks for the good set. As I had asked before; if I should get these, would I also need a new coil; or will the original coils be fine? Sorry if that seems retarded, I am not an expert on shocks/struts. I honestly don't know the difference between the two.

And like you said, they're not necessarily parts I need per se, but parts I'd like. If I am already taking the painful parts off, might as well put the ones I want on. Saves doing the work twice. I'm pretty sure the bearings have been the hardest part to change out so far, simply because I had to take the spindle to a shop and have them torch off the old bearings. I can do most of the work myself, I just lack the proper tools.

[noodlesdefyyou]

Also, where can I find replacement interior parts? For example, the steering column cover. There are other bits missing from the dash near the radio, but I am fairly certain they are included with the interior kit, whenever I get around to getting it.

This is the interior kit I am talking about. I will most likely get it in Carbon/Dark Blue. I wanted to include the door panels because I don't know what the interior's original color was. It appears to have been red, painted over with black. Or maybe someone painted it red, then repainted it black. Either way, it looks terrible after wear and weather have beat chips of paint off. This is something I'd get after the car is mechanically sound.

I've also considered looking for a junked 97 Jetta with a good body in my area to keep around as a parts car. Is this a wise idea, or should I just get actual replacement parts as needed?

[Citizen_Erased]

Perhaps you should just focus on general maintenence ie your shocks and tie rods. Sort that out, then begin to replace interior parts. I like the idea of having a parts car it'll make it easier to source parts. I also agree, your first post was nice.

Good luck!

[noodlesdefyyou]

Haha, thanks.

Yea, I had planned on getting all the cosmetic 'eye candy' when I get my tax returns.

After I make sure the car is mechanically sound, then I'll get things like the interior dash kit, new steering wheel, body kit, new wheels etc etc as I can with my next tax return and after.

I'd like to ultimately be able to take it to several VW Shows next year.

I just hope I can find someone that knows how to properly lift and clean an engine. Lol.

[AtomixMK3]

You can find parts like the clamshell for the steering column in the classifieds when people part their cars out. I know you're thinking of the blue carbon fiber but ECS has 3M film for a decent price and some people have be used it and like it. http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...or/DiNoc_Film/

But in addition to GermanAutoparts, MJM Autohaus there is AutohausAZ which I personally use the most. Then you've obviously got ECSTuning which has an OEM part number search but they tend to be on the higher end of the price range.

[noodlesdefyyou]

So I just found a guy parting out his 98 Jetta. I can get the minor interior quirks that have been bothering me finally. Sucks, cause I'd pay more money for other parts I could use, but he's got an automatic, and it's red.

[Lolasaurus_Rex]

Rockauto.com has both control arms, new, WITH ball joints and new bushings (yours are probably shot) for ~$30 each. Look around online for a 5% off coupon.

[noodlesdefyyou]

You can find parts like the clamshell for the steering column in the classifieds when people part their cars out. I know you're thinking of the blue carbon fiber but ECS has 3M film for a decent price and some people have be used it and like it. http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...or/DiNoc_Film/

But in addition to GermanAutoparts, MJM Autohaus there is AutohausAZ which I personally use the most. Then you've obviously got ECSTuning which has an OEM part number search but they tend to be on the higher end of the price range.

Id really rather get the actual pieces. ill keep that tape in mind, and pribably use it for detailing as needed. like on the interior door handles.

[noodlesdefyyou]

This post is more or less for future reference for myself; but after I fixed the mechanical things I plan on going with a dark blue/black theme for my Jetta. What are some recommendations? Since I will ultimately be turning this in to a DD+Show Car, should I keep the original seats and just throw some seat covers on? Or would it be better to get some newer, updated steats and keep the originals stored away?

What about the engine housing? Should I pull out the engine to clean and shine everything? Or just the visible bits? I'm new to the concept of a show car, but after lookin around I feel that this would be the best thing I can do for my car in memory of my father.

Since it's not a restoration, do I have to worry about replacing old/worn chasis parts? Keeping in mind I don't really have a garage loaded with tools and space to do a whole lot of work, but I am willing to do what is necessary to make it a decent show car, while still being my daily driver until I save more money for another VW (Probably the Diesel Jetta, same year or newer).

Should the opportunity present itself, how difficult is it to pull apart the engine to clean it? With 156k miles, I am sure there is a crapload of gunk in the engine I could clean out. Or would it be easier to just get a new engine when the time comes? There is nothing wrong with the one in it right now, it's just slowly approaching 200k and I want to be prepared. I can put roughly 30k miles on a car in a year, driving 200 miles round trip to see my mother usually once a week. Should I bother replacing ALL the hoses, or just the ones that need replaced?

Important Questions Here

Apart from the bits I've listed, what other mechanical things should I keep an eye on? What is common to go out on these Jetta's? Would a bi-tankly dose of injector cleaner be beneficial, or is it not necessary that often? I usually get Lucas Oil Injector Cleaner from Autozone, is there a better brand?

Thoughts/Recommendations?

[mk3golf<3]

For interior, junkyard is always a good deal. I'm pretty sure half my cars interior was from the junkyard. And, it's always fun to go to the junkyard.

Sometimes I just get stuff I "may" need for my car, lol. But for now, it's sitting in the garage.

[noodlesdefyyou]

I am about to head to bed, but when I get a chance to I will draw up the basic schematics I have in mind for my custom sub woofer installation. I think it will look unique, and add an extra element to the Jetta, assuming my two 12" sub woofers fit where I want them to. If it looks like I would need to move the rear speakers, then I most likely won't bother.

First and foremost, I have to figure out what is knocking. I just had a friend in my car, and they said they felt it vibrating real bad under the passenger floor there. When I kick the front passenger tire, it makes a metal clanking sound and seems loose. Fairly certain that's my tie rod knocked loose, which I will be replacing (as well as the ball joints, and most likely control arms, being that it sat for 6 months) in about 4 days.

[noodlesdefyyou]

This is by far the worst interpretation of what I would like to do, but it does give a rough idea.



The red is my rear seat head rests.
The blue circles are my rear speakers.
The green ovals are the sub woofers.
The brown thing is the custom box (which will have a slit on the bottom maybe 3-4" wide in the middle to allow air flow)
The gold/yellow thing is the amp (and the blue's are the wires obviously).

But as you can kinda see, they'll sit in the rear deck area, angled so they are about 30 degrees.

The giant VW things are covers I would consider getting. It would be something spandex-esque to allow air flow, yet not snap from the vibrations, and allow decent sound passage; to cover the woofers. Most likely a single rectangular piece of material that says VW, Volkswagen, or Alpine (all the speakers in my Jetta are Apline, Type S door speakers and Type R woofers)

I should also note that the rear seats have 2 pull pins in the corner by the door that allow the entire rear seat back piece to fold down for trunk access. Even the bottom part of the rear seats removes very easily. I just pull a strap and up it comes.

I am not sure what material to make the mounting frame out of, but it's not really too important right now. Any ideas though, shout

[noodlesdefyyou]

As an update, the knocking has gotten worse (but i am fixing it thursday) and I have noticed that I am leaking power steering fluid somewhere. I wouldn't mind taking out the power steering pump and bypassing it, but I don't know if its cost effective; let alone how to do it.

Has anyone else removed the power steering?

[AtomixMK3]

I haven't personally done it but you need to pull the lines off the rack and use a loopback line. Theres a guy on here that sells them. I'll see if I can find

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...+Steering+Loop

[FATANG!!]

For interior, junkyard is always a good deal. I'm pretty sure half my cars interior was from the junkyard. And, it's always fun to go to the junkyard.

Sometimes I just get stuff I "may" need for my car, lol. But for now, it's sitting in the garage.

^Seconded.

This is by far the worst interpretation of what I would like to do, but it does give a rough idea.

Rear deck mods are really saves the trunk space.

Also, alot of what you are looking for is easily found through the Search tool.

[MYGTI_MA]

BUY THIS BOOK

http://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Jet...8742401&sr=1-4

not saying that amazon has the best price just giving a link to the book.

I feel like I go into a lot of the newer mk3 threads and say this but seriously had I done this from the start of my build it would have gone sooo much smoother. The book explains how to take apart and put back together 90% of your car in a way that even a moron like myself who doesn't work on cars for a living can understand. If you really want to keep this car running without having to spend tons of money or hours an hours searching and begging for answers to basic* questions buy this book.

* meaning that they are covered in the Bentley so people get sick and tired of a new thread popping up asking questions that are covered in the Bentley by people too cheap to buy the book.

[noodlesdefyyou]

So I just spent the past 6 hours hacking away at my left driver side tie rod trying to change it. First, the tie rod shaft (the part with the nut) broke off, so it just spun. Hacked the nut off. Then, the nut on the inner tie rod was stuck. Hacked that off. Then, it started raining, and the tie rod itself wouldn't budge.

I blasted that POS with PB Blaster, WD40, using vice grips and a pipe wrench. The only thing I haven't done is heated the tie rod with a torch. Don't have one. I even tried to hack off one side of the tie rod, and after 20 minutes I was making very little progress.

I'm sure this would be a lot easier if I had a garage and an actual jack to use. Right now it's on the side of the road with a little 2 ton jack. I am honestly surprised that my car didn't fall off the jack with as much pressure I was applying to the tie rod.

Anyone have any better suggestions other than heating it up with a torch and trying to turn it?

[vwishndaetr]

Be careful man.

I have heard stories from my Dad about people losing their legs from working on cars that weren't properly jacked.

As far as the struggles go, get a torch man. Even a smaller one from HomeDepot will get the job done, that's what I use. No need for fancy acetylene torches. Heat = butter.

[johnxfaceless]

Be careful man.

I have heard stories from my Dad about people losing their legs from working on cars that weren't properly jacked.

^^this
for proper jacking

[ADeHelian]

I like that your first ideas were maintenance and not the usual "what can i bolt to my car to make it go fast for cheap???"

as for the torch buy a 15 dollar propane torch from ACE or home depot. 15 bucks and it gets hot enough to free stubborn bolts, ask me how i know.

goodluck

[FATANG!!]

I like that your first ideas were maintenance and not the usual "what can i bolt to my car to make it go fast for cheap???"

as for the torch buy a 15 dollar propane torch from ACE or home depot. 15 bucks and it gets hot enough to free stubborn bolts, ask me how i know.

goodluck

Seconded. Maintenance, and maintenance minded mods, are where it's at.

[noodlesdefyyou]

Thanks guys. Yea, there's no logic in making a car look like its straight out of F&F if the chasis is falling apart, or the wheels are about to fall off. These are also known as Honda Ricers. I don't own a Honda. I own a Volkswagen,

Tomorrow after my hospital appointment I'll go pick up a torch from my local hardware store ( for local hardware shops, even if they are a tad more expensive). How long would you say, 15 minutes of steady heat then try turning it with the pipe wrench? Also, is it easier to try and turn the tie rod end or seat the tie rod end and turn the inner tie rod after applying the heat?

Tie rods, ball joints, control arm, possibly re-do the brake and fuel lines, new calipers and roters, new brake pads, new suspension, full tune up, etc etc. Drive it for like 3 months steadily to make sure nothing else needs replaced. THEN start putting money in to looks and cosmetics.

As far as jacking goes, would it be safe to get jack stands and lift the entire front end up to sit on 2 jack stands?

[ADeHelian]

Tomorrow after my hospital appointment I'll go pick up a torch from my local hardware store ( for local hardware shops, even if they are a tad more expensive). How long would you say, 15 minutes of steady heat then try turning it with the pipe wrench? Also, is it easier to try and turn the tie rod end or seat the tie rod end and turn the inner tie rod after applying the heat?

Tie rods, ball joints, control arm, possibly re-do the brake and fuel lines, new calipers and roters, new brake pads, new suspension, full tune up, etc etc. Drive it for like 3 months steadily to make sure nothing else needs replaced. THEN start putting money in to looks and cosmetics.

As far as jacking goes, would it be safe to get jack stands and lift the entire front end up to sit on 2 jack stands?

heat it for about a minute evenly around the whole thing. heres how i got mine off

and double yes to the jackstands. im sure youre familiar with the jack point in the front of a mk3. if not theres an arrow on the rocker pointing to where to place the jack. super simple.

[noodlesdefyyou]

I am also reading up on repairing rust damage, and notice a lot of people use POR-15.

If I grind the rust away (it has not eaten through, it's just starting from the looks of it), can I apply POR-15 directly to the exterior? Or is there another method that is simpler?

I will probably attempt to repair the rust in august or september or after i get all my general maintenance taken care of; whichever comes last.

I also plan on getting a paint job next spring, after I install a body kit during the winter. Will that be effected by the POR-15 if I use it?

[noodlesdefyyou]

heat it for about a minute evenly around the whole thing. heres how i got mine off
*le image*

and double yes to the jackstands. im sure youre familiar with the jack point in the front of a mk3. if not theres an arrow on the rocker pointing to where to place the jack. super simple.

I actually can't find a solid enough spot in the front of the engine bay to place a jack, so I have been putting the jack just behind the wheel well near where the door hinges are, on the frame itself.

Hopefully the stands aren't too expensive. I know Autozone has the jack+2 stand package, but i don't want to spend 50 bucks just for the stands when I already have the same jack.

[FATANG!!]

Tie rods, ball joints, control arm, possibly re-do the brake and fuel lines, new calipers and roters, new brake pads, new suspension, full tune up, etc etc. Drive it for like 3 months steadily to make sure nothing else needs replaced. THEN start putting money in to looks and cosmetics.

As far as jacking goes, would it be safe to get jack stands and lift the entire front end up to sit on 2 jack stands?

You'll need a pickle fork ( "tuning fork" ) to spit these, well, you won't need it, but it'll be much easier. And, safety first, get manual spring compressors for the struts.

The fuel lines are tough because they run through the frame, replacing the engine to filter lines, and filter, would be an/a easier/better option (though full braided lines would be sweet), unless there is a leak. Also look into your fuel pump sender gasket, mine was pretty worn out and gave off a slight fuel smell.

If you can't find propper jackstands, you can use concrete "cinder" blocks (but not actual cinder) and a piece of 2x8" ontop, with the block holes facing up. Anything is safer than just a jack. Also, chock the wheels. Use the center bolt of the front motor mount as a jack point to set the stands.

[vwmercer98]

ok so anything that is making a knocking sound should be use tie rods or your ball joints but is there a possibility that u didn't torque down the axle nut properly. not doggin you about its just something i have to ask. even i sometimes forget to tighten the wheels all the way when in a hurry. since you car isnt lowered look under the car while a friend plays with the wheel and u can see if anything has free play in it.
i have removed my power steering and i just bought another car where the pump is toast and i can honestly say its not bad driving it. u just have to learn that its not worth trying to turn the wheel while standing still. just get a little movement and it 100 times easier.

and for the love of god do not walk into an autozone!!!! they are worthless! always with the wrong parts and when you ask a question you get the "what???" look. asked for a vacuum line recently and got that answer.

[noodlesdefyyou]

I only mentioned the fuel/brake lines because it is a '97. There's no leak or anything, but I may as well replace them when I can. Not a priority, but knowing my luck I'll be putting the finishing touches on my car a year from now and my fuel line will rupture or something and ruin all my work somehow.

Murphy's Law and all...

As far as the ball joints go, will I still need that pickle fork if I buy the full control arm and replace the whole unit?

[noodlesdefyyou]

ok so anything that is making a knocking sound should be use tie rods or your ball joints but is there a possibility that u didn't torque down the axle nut properly. not doggin you about its just something i have to ask. even i sometimes forget to tighten the wheels all the way when in a hurry. since you car isnt lowered look under the car while a friend plays with the wheel and u can see if anything has free play in it.
i have removed my power steering and i just bought another car where the pump is toast and i can honestly say its not bad driving it. u just have to learn that its not worth trying to turn the wheel while standing still. just get a little movement and it 100 times easier.

and for the love of god do not walk into an autozone!!!! they are worthless! always with the wrong parts and when you ask a question you get the "what???" look. asked for a vacuum line recently and got that answer.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! If I had ANY other parts store to go to for parts right now, I would. I went it today to get the tie rods, and while they were looking it up they asked if i had the press on dust cap or screw on dust cap. I was like uh.... wtf does it matter? They told me I had to know to get the right part. An hour of arguing with them later, they discovered that both parts were the exact same.

After I fix the tie rods since they DESPARATELY needed replacing, I will be ordering all non-critical parts (meaning if I don't get it fixed right now my car could break down) from either Rock Auto, GAP, or that mjm whatever site I was linked to earlier.

When I get back from my hospital appointment tomorrow, I will snap a quick pic of what I am working with.

[AJmustDIE]

I am fairly certain that this is the correct board to post this; however feel free to move it if necessary. I have a 97 Jetta (sadly, with a 2.0 non-turbo engine )

My long-term goals:
Redo paint job.
Custom Wheels.
Performance Suspension (not hi-performance, but not stock)
Custom Interior
Custom Sub woofer installation
Halo lights
Exhaust System
New Seats (The ones that are in it look like they blasted out of the 80's.)
Possibly find the 1.9 Turbo engine for it

As for the engine.. the 1.9 you are speaking of is a TDI. I'm almost positive you don't know about these engines that were available in these cars so I'll give you some background.



You have an ABA, It's a 2.0l 8v. That's the only way it came. No turbo there.
The TDI is a very reliable diesel (turbocharged) engine
The other engine they were available with of course was the VR6.

Surprised nobody said this yet..

[vwmercer98]

i was to tired and i didnt feel like mentioning that.

[noodlesdefyyou]

As for the engine.. the 1.9 you are speaking of is a TDI. I'm almost positive you don't know about these engines that were available in these cars so I'll give you some background.



You have an ABA, It's a 2.0l 8v. That's the only way it came. No turbo there.
The TDI is a very reliable diesel (turbocharged) engine
The other engine they were available with of course was the VR6.

Surprised nobody said this yet..

Thanks for the info. I know jack squat about the engines. I mean, I know a bit about engines, but I don't know precise details.

Thinking more about it now, I'd be willing to bet I would need the transmission to fit the 1.9. If I am fortunate enough, I may decide to just install a turbo kit on the 2.0 (or the 2.slow as I have seen others call it, but I don't think it's slow at all)

The turbo kit is honestly one of the LAST things I would do, if I even decide to do it. You know, like after I get another car to drive daily, then take the turbo-Jetta to the local drag strip and spank the 19 year olds that don't know squat about real performance mods. A real drag strip, not in the street.

[AJmustDIE]

HEY! I'm 19...

Sticking a turbo on 2.0? I'm in the process of it.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...o-Build-Thread

Give it a good read, lots of information in there from good people here on the forum.