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    Thread: I want to keep my Jetta alive.

    1. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      97 Jetta, 95 LeBaron Convertible
      07-16-2011 03:32 PM #101
      I finally figured out how to start my list, and going through adding all my parts I finally came to my brake/rotor system.

      I'd like to replace as much of the brake lines as possible with stainless steel (I have to deal with salty roads in the winter), and I came across this.

      NOTE: Six (6) line set for VR6 vehicles with factory 11.0" front rotors, and rear disc brakes.
      Is that set for the VR6, or does the bottom there tell the truth in that it will fit my 97 2.fast Jetta?

      I also assume this is the full line set? I need to replace as much of the brake line as i can without digging it ALL out. Just whats visible underneath the car, and to the calipers. Same for my fuel lines. I noticed that both are fairly rusted.
      Last edited by noodlesdefyyou; 07-17-2011 at 02:23 AM.

    2. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-17-2011 02:29 AM #102
      Apart from my last post, I finally got off my lazy ass and made a moderate parts list.

      Have I missed any major mechanical part, not including a full tuneup and fluid flush?

      Please note, I am NOT looking to do any sort of performance (that includes the chip) until the car is 110% mechanically sound. I also have my suspension and a new exhaust picked out, but I won't worry about them as they're both $800 a pop new.

      Wheel Bearings
      Front (http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...vetrain/242/12)
      $35 per side + $28 per side

      Rear (http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...ivetrain/243/3)
      $20 per side + $3 per side.

      Control Arms (http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/p...oducts_id=3470)
      $150

      Ball Joints (http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...Suspension/9/7)
      $12 per side + $2.70 per side + $3 per side

      Intake Manifold Gasket (http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...a/Engine/320/9)
      $10 total

      Check other various gaskets

      Rotors
      Front Set (http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/p...oducts_id=1220)
      $130

      Rear Set (http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/p...oducts_id=1964)
      $160

      Calipers and Rotors as well, didn't have time to pull that info just yet.


      Oil Pan (http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/p...oducts_id=1365)
      $45 High RPM Pan W/ Gasket.
      I'm looking at about 800 - 1000 bucks for all this so far, if I buy each part separate and new. Maybe someone has something slightly used I can get for cheaper, or maybe MJM will hook me up with a package deal of some sort. We shall see as time goes. Not sure if that rough price guess included the fuel/brake lines or not.

      As for these parts, please bear in mind I live in the north and have to deal with salty roads.

      And if I can get away with it, I'll hold off on the control arms until I get these.
      Last edited by noodlesdefyyou; 07-17-2011 at 02:31 AM.

    3. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-18-2011 06:32 PM #103
      Anyone have any tips/suggestions on the same or similar parts for cheaper? As well as other mechanical things I could check in to that I may have missed?

    4. Member
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      Current 97 Jetta GLX, Stolen 98 Jetta VRT , Sold 1980 Caddy VRT , Sold 1997 Cabrio VR6
      07-19-2011 11:37 AM #104
      Quote Originally Posted by noodlesdefyyou View Post
      Anyone have any tips/suggestions on the same or similar parts for cheaper? As well as other mechanical things I could check in to that I may have missed?
      Your list looks good but for that price I would get a different set of coilovers, I'll have to find a link but I know there is a second Tier KW coilover for same price. Other than that make sure you pick up a mk3 Bently book to help with the labor.

    5. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-19-2011 01:04 PM #105
      Quote Originally Posted by VR6T-Rex View Post
      Your list looks good but for that price I would get a different set of coilovers, I'll have to find a link but I know there is a second Tier KW coilover for same price. Other than that make sure you pick up a mk3 Bently book to help with the labor.
      I've been keeping my eyes open for a cheap used Bently.

    6. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-19-2011 11:25 PM #106
      I found a good deal on some seats, so I'll take a minute and inspect how much rust I have on the interior floor wells. Anyone wanna place some bets?

      Stats:

      97 Jetta, Northeast Ohio car. No idea how long its been here in the north. Few small rust spots forming on the exterior (see previous pages for pics)

    7. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-23-2011 10:57 PM #107
      So ever since I got my car, the oil sensor light has been on. At least, that's what I think it is. It could also be the oil pressure light, not sure. It flashes whenever I am over 900 RPM (speaking of which, I want to lower my idle down to about 650).

      I changed the oil sending unit a while back on the oil block under the intake mani because the po said it was cracked and he tried to seal it with silicone. Needless to say it did not hold up.

      I noticed another similar looking plug underneath the engine, near what looks to be the top of the oil pan, could be the oil pump. I'll post a picture tomorrow when it's not raining. Is that the same part? I happen to have another oil sending unit.

      There's no buzzer or anything, I'm not burning oil, and I am not leaking oil. I check it religiously, daily if not twice a day if I do heavy driving.

      Oh, and my CEL is not on. It will come on every once in a blue moon, and I get it checked immediately. It's always my main o2 sensor. I'll change it eventually.

    8. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-24-2011 01:58 AM #108
      Here is a video of the light. I don't know if theres sound or not, but there's no buzzing whatsoever. I'm just sitting in neutral, and the speed/tach decided to work this start.

      http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j3...=VIDEO0001.mp4

      Edit: just played the video. There's sound. You can also hear how loud my exhaust is. Some ******* decided to steal my muffler. I know who it was too, and I kick it's ass every time I see it. Damn road.
      Last edited by noodlesdefyyou; 07-24-2011 at 02:00 AM.

    9. Member FATANG!!'s Avatar
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      07-25-2011 01:11 PM #109
      Quote Originally Posted by noodlesdefyyou View Post
      So ever since I got my car, the oil sensor light has been on. At least, that's what I think it is. It could also be the oil pressure light, not sure. It flashes whenever I am over 900 RPM (speaking of which, I want to lower my idle down to about 650).
      Idle is fixed and un-adjustable, it'll almost stall out at 650. Why would you want to change it anyway? 890-910 is $$
      Quote Originally Posted by PKstrategy View Post
      easy+mk3= does not always compute
      Quote Originally Posted by sk8too View Post
      It's the car's way of saying I hate what you've done to me and take them out
      -Not quite a Fink, but still a rat. -MK3 OBD1 Issues? Start Here!

    10. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-25-2011 11:45 PM #110
      i thought you could adjust the idle by adjusting a screw near the throttle. it was just an idea, im in a lot of stop and go traffic usually and a lower idle will KINDA help fuel consumption.

    11. Member n0username's Avatar
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      07-26-2011 02:24 AM #111
      Quote Originally Posted by noodlesdefyyou View Post
      i thought you could adjust the idle by adjusting a screw near the throttle. it was just an idea, im in a lot of stop and go traffic usually and a lower idle will KINDA help fuel consumption.
      on these it's not adjustable (at least not like that), and it won't help fuel at all, although it may help destroy your motor by running it too lean (don't do it)

    12. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-26-2011 03:18 AM #112
      Quote Originally Posted by n0username View Post
      on these it's not adjustable (at least not like that), and it won't help fuel at all, although it may help destroy your motor by running it too lean (don't do it)
      meh, t'was a 2 am half asleep thought. im usually quick enough to forget them. but this one slipped through.

    13. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-26-2011 03:50 AM #113
      Current budget plans:

      Aug 4th check: Various nick-nacks, new seats, front bearing and hub set, and pay a few bills. (also gas to get back and forth from mississippi)

      2 weeks later: Rear bearings, spindles, and a rotor set (either front or rear)

      2 weeks later: Other rotor set, spark plugs, various gaskets, pay a few bills.

      2 weeks later: New pads all around, complete stainless steel brake line kit.

      2 weeks later: Control arms, ball joints (and all relevant hardware), hybrid poly/rubber bushings. I may actually get all this with previous checks if I have enough. Won't put them on until I get my suspension though, since it will all be off already.

      Latter checks: Save for Coilovers and stainless steel cat-back

      After all that is done, I plan on repairing rust damage and getting a respray. I'm not too worried about the respray before winter, but I definitely want to find a cheap beater to get me through the snow/salt season. I'd hate to find new rust/damage after doing the work because of salt. Plus I'd like to pull my engine out and clean the bay and engine.

      After the respray, I'll move on to interior work. I have a few ideas up my sleeves, hopefully I can manage correctly and get this done and ready for SoWo 2012.

      I've found someone that can hopefully help with the respray. Here in a while I can hopefully find someone to help strip and clean my interior.

      I may have missed a few things, but this is the general direction I am heading thus far, assuming Murphy's Law doesn't catch up to me.


      Also: I'd like to get new parts due to sentimental value of the car, but if anyone has the parts I will be getting that are barely used for cheaper than MSRP, I'll gladly buy them when I have the money (hopefully with the above schedule. I am going to try to follow it strictly.)
      Last edited by noodlesdefyyou; 07-26-2011 at 03:54 AM.

    14. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-26-2011 07:51 PM #114
      I am applying for a new job today. I doubt I will get it, but I know I can't get it if I don't even try.


    15. Member AtomixMK3's Avatar
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      07-26-2011 07:53 PM #115
      Good luck hope you get it.

      Quote Originally Posted by noodlesdefyyou View Post
      I am applying for a new job today. I doubt I will get it, but I know I can't get it if I don't even try.



      Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
      Vagcom available in Palm Springs area PM me

    16. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-26-2011 08:05 PM #116
      Quote Originally Posted by AtomixMK3 View Post
      Good luck hope you get it.





      Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
      Thanks! It's at ECS Tuning (I live literally 20 minutes from them) as a Mechanic/Parts installer. I really hope they overlook the lack of ASE Certs and hire me for the drive, motivation, and experience I'll acquire to get my ASE Certs. There's about 7 or 8 that I want to get.

      ASE Certified with A1, A3, A4, A5, A8, and X1 is what I am aiming for. Need 2 years experience to get ASE Certified unless you go to a school. I don't have the time or money for that.

    17. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-27-2011 08:37 AM #117
      After doing a little research I think I reduced my price cost a bit, meaning I'll HOPEFULLY be able to complete my schedule sooner than anticipated.

      I have been researching Slotted Cross Drilled vs Solid rotors (Zimmermans vs Brembos) and found that the slotted cross drilled zimmermans are for hi-speed braking and reducing the chance of wheel lock at said speeds; whereas the solid rotors have more surface area for braking. Correct me if I am wrong, but if what I read is correct, then 60 bucks for a set of Brembos is much more appealing than 150 for the Zimmers.

      I have also read that vented is slightly better on pad wear compared to solids.

      Too bad I can't find vented rear's on here.

      Is it also worth the 75 bucks a set for the HAWX pads, or would a standard set of ceramics from my local parts store be just the same for 40 bucks cheaper?
      Last edited by noodlesdefyyou; 07-27-2011 at 08:41 AM.

    18. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-30-2011 07:33 PM #118
      I feel my thread getting neglected! Where is the love?

      I'll be in Lucedale Mississippi Aug 5th or so until the8th or 9th, and will be hitting up the Hard Rock Casino in Biloxi if anyone wamts to meet up and make fun of my Jetta.

      I'll also let you in on my secret interior theme concept, as long as it doesn't get mentioned on here until its done


      Before I make a fs thread, would anyone be interested in my wheels? i dunno what theyre worth but i have 2 sets. the set on my car and another in storage. the storage set has rubber, but 2 of the tires are bad. i can get new tires for 10 bucks a pop though

      Last edited by noodlesdefyyou; 07-30-2011 at 07:58 PM.

    19. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      08-03-2011 04:32 AM #119
      I really wish I was lucky enough to acquire about $5000. I found a really nice Porsche for 4500, could probably talk him down to #3800.

      I always find these nice cars/project cars that I'd love to have/work on but never have the cash to get them


      Look at this thing.

      This one seems fishy though.

      (shamelessly disguised as a bump.)

    20. Member FATANG!!'s Avatar
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      08-04-2011 11:35 AM #120
      Quote Originally Posted by noodlesdefyyou View Post
      Thanks! It's at ECS Tuning (I live literally 20 minutes from them) as a Mechanic/Parts installer. I really hope they overlook the lack of ASE Certs and hire me for the drive, motivation, and experience I'll acquire to get my ASE Certs. There's about 7 or 8 that I want to get.

      ASE Certified with A1, A3, A4, A5, A8, and X1 is what I am aiming for. Need 2 years experience to get ASE Certified unless you go to a school. I don't have the time or money for that.

      I've known many a Shadetree mechanic using mostly 2x4s and chains that can outwrench most of the ASE certified idiots out there.

      The tech school by me cranks out certified techs all day long, but they mostly become landscapers.

      A good ASE certified mechanic was a good mechanic before he was certified.

      /end rant.
      Quote Originally Posted by PKstrategy View Post
      easy+mk3= does not always compute
      Quote Originally Posted by sk8too View Post
      It's the car's way of saying I hate what you've done to me and take them out
      -Not quite a Fink, but still a rat. -MK3 OBD1 Issues? Start Here!

    21. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      08-09-2011 12:23 AM #121
      I'm about to leave mississippi, either tonight or tomorrow. I'll be applying for ECS when I get back. Luckily their application said nothing about being ASE certified, so hopefully I can get the job as a parts installer.

    22. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      08-18-2011 03:17 PM #122
      So, I walk outside to find this.







      So, not only am I not able to sleep (due to noise and **** where I'm staying), the city broke my rear tail light the last time they were around, and I was forced to move my car again today so this could happen.

      When I am not so pissed off to the point where I want to shoot something, I will attempt to take that fender off and see how much of it I can pop back out. Pisses me off just thinking about it.
      Last edited by noodlesdefyyou; 08-18-2011 at 03:24 PM.

    23. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      08-20-2011 03:42 PM #123
      Was moving some things in my trunk, and noticed this sticker. There's no floor carpet in the trunk, so it stood out like a sore thumb.



      Pretty interesting this is in the trunk and not on the door frame or under the hood.

    24. Member AJmustDIE's Avatar
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      08-20-2011 03:52 PM #124
      I think all the cars have them in both spots.

      Mine is on my fuel pump cover.
      Quote Originally Posted by root beer View Post
      It's Timmy with mmmmMojo, i have returned
      8VALVETURBO - RIP White Jetta

    25. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      08-20-2011 03:54 PM #125
      Quote Originally Posted by AJmustDIE View Post
      I think all the cars have them in both spots.

      Mine is on my fuel pump cover.
      Most likely. It'd make more sense to have them under the hood, or on the door frame though. At least now I know my paint code without having to look at a list, what engine I have without guessing, and what tranny i have without guessing

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