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    Thread: I want to keep my Jetta alive.

    1. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-20-2011 12:25 AM #106
      I found a good deal on some seats, so I'll take a minute and inspect how much rust I have on the interior floor wells. Anyone wanna place some bets?

      Stats:

      97 Jetta, Northeast Ohio car. No idea how long its been here in the north. Few small rust spots forming on the exterior (see previous pages for pics)

    2. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-23-2011 11:57 PM #107
      So ever since I got my car, the oil sensor light has been on. At least, that's what I think it is. It could also be the oil pressure light, not sure. It flashes whenever I am over 900 RPM (speaking of which, I want to lower my idle down to about 650).

      I changed the oil sending unit a while back on the oil block under the intake mani because the po said it was cracked and he tried to seal it with silicone. Needless to say it did not hold up.

      I noticed another similar looking plug underneath the engine, near what looks to be the top of the oil pan, could be the oil pump. I'll post a picture tomorrow when it's not raining. Is that the same part? I happen to have another oil sending unit.

      There's no buzzer or anything, I'm not burning oil, and I am not leaking oil. I check it religiously, daily if not twice a day if I do heavy driving.

      Oh, and my CEL is not on. It will come on every once in a blue moon, and I get it checked immediately. It's always my main o2 sensor. I'll change it eventually.

    3. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-24-2011 02:58 AM #108
      Here is a video of the light. I don't know if theres sound or not, but there's no buzzing whatsoever. I'm just sitting in neutral, and the speed/tach decided to work this start.

      http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j3...=VIDEO0001.mp4

      Edit: just played the video. There's sound. You can also hear how loud my exhaust is. Some ******* decided to steal my muffler. I know who it was too, and I kick it's ass every time I see it. Damn road.
      Last edited by noodlesdefyyou; 07-24-2011 at 03:00 AM.

    4. Member FATANG!!'s Avatar
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      07-25-2011 02:11 PM #109
      Quote Originally Posted by noodlesdefyyou View Post
      So ever since I got my car, the oil sensor light has been on. At least, that's what I think it is. It could also be the oil pressure light, not sure. It flashes whenever I am over 900 RPM (speaking of which, I want to lower my idle down to about 650).
      Idle is fixed and un-adjustable, it'll almost stall out at 650. Why would you want to change it anyway? 890-910 is $$
      Quote Originally Posted by PKstrategy View Post
      easy+mk3= does not always compute
      Quote Originally Posted by sk8too View Post
      It's the car's way of saying I hate what you've done to me and take them out
      -Not quite a Fink, but still a rat. -MK3 OBD1 Issues? Start Here!

    5. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-26-2011 12:45 AM #110
      i thought you could adjust the idle by adjusting a screw near the throttle. it was just an idea, im in a lot of stop and go traffic usually and a lower idle will KINDA help fuel consumption.

    6. Member n0username's Avatar
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      07-26-2011 03:24 AM #111
      Quote Originally Posted by noodlesdefyyou View Post
      i thought you could adjust the idle by adjusting a screw near the throttle. it was just an idea, im in a lot of stop and go traffic usually and a lower idle will KINDA help fuel consumption.
      on these it's not adjustable (at least not like that), and it won't help fuel at all, although it may help destroy your motor by running it too lean (don't do it)

    7. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-26-2011 04:18 AM #112
      Quote Originally Posted by n0username View Post
      on these it's not adjustable (at least not like that), and it won't help fuel at all, although it may help destroy your motor by running it too lean (don't do it)
      meh, t'was a 2 am half asleep thought. im usually quick enough to forget them. but this one slipped through.

    8. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-26-2011 04:50 AM #113
      Current budget plans:

      Aug 4th check: Various nick-nacks, new seats, front bearing and hub set, and pay a few bills. (also gas to get back and forth from mississippi)

      2 weeks later: Rear bearings, spindles, and a rotor set (either front or rear)

      2 weeks later: Other rotor set, spark plugs, various gaskets, pay a few bills.

      2 weeks later: New pads all around, complete stainless steel brake line kit.

      2 weeks later: Control arms, ball joints (and all relevant hardware), hybrid poly/rubber bushings. I may actually get all this with previous checks if I have enough. Won't put them on until I get my suspension though, since it will all be off already.

      Latter checks: Save for Coilovers and stainless steel cat-back

      After all that is done, I plan on repairing rust damage and getting a respray. I'm not too worried about the respray before winter, but I definitely want to find a cheap beater to get me through the snow/salt season. I'd hate to find new rust/damage after doing the work because of salt. Plus I'd like to pull my engine out and clean the bay and engine.

      After the respray, I'll move on to interior work. I have a few ideas up my sleeves, hopefully I can manage correctly and get this done and ready for SoWo 2012.

      I've found someone that can hopefully help with the respray. Here in a while I can hopefully find someone to help strip and clean my interior.

      I may have missed a few things, but this is the general direction I am heading thus far, assuming Murphy's Law doesn't catch up to me.


      Also: I'd like to get new parts due to sentimental value of the car, but if anyone has the parts I will be getting that are barely used for cheaper than MSRP, I'll gladly buy them when I have the money (hopefully with the above schedule. I am going to try to follow it strictly.)
      Last edited by noodlesdefyyou; 07-26-2011 at 04:54 AM.

    9. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-26-2011 08:51 PM #114
      I am applying for a new job today. I doubt I will get it, but I know I can't get it if I don't even try.


    10. Member AtomixMK3's Avatar
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      07-26-2011 08:53 PM #115
      Good luck hope you get it.

      Quote Originally Posted by noodlesdefyyou View Post
      I am applying for a new job today. I doubt I will get it, but I know I can't get it if I don't even try.



      Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
      Vagcom available in Palm Springs area PM me

    11. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-26-2011 09:05 PM #116
      Quote Originally Posted by AtomixMK3 View Post
      Good luck hope you get it.





      Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
      Thanks! It's at ECS Tuning (I live literally 20 minutes from them) as a Mechanic/Parts installer. I really hope they overlook the lack of ASE Certs and hire me for the drive, motivation, and experience I'll acquire to get my ASE Certs. There's about 7 or 8 that I want to get.

      ASE Certified with A1, A3, A4, A5, A8, and X1 is what I am aiming for. Need 2 years experience to get ASE Certified unless you go to a school. I don't have the time or money for that.

    12. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-27-2011 09:37 AM #117
      After doing a little research I think I reduced my price cost a bit, meaning I'll HOPEFULLY be able to complete my schedule sooner than anticipated.

      I have been researching Slotted Cross Drilled vs Solid rotors (Zimmermans vs Brembos) and found that the slotted cross drilled zimmermans are for hi-speed braking and reducing the chance of wheel lock at said speeds; whereas the solid rotors have more surface area for braking. Correct me if I am wrong, but if what I read is correct, then 60 bucks for a set of Brembos is much more appealing than 150 for the Zimmers.

      I have also read that vented is slightly better on pad wear compared to solids.

      Too bad I can't find vented rear's on here.

      Is it also worth the 75 bucks a set for the HAWX pads, or would a standard set of ceramics from my local parts store be just the same for 40 bucks cheaper?
      Last edited by noodlesdefyyou; 07-27-2011 at 09:41 AM.

    13. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      07-30-2011 08:33 PM #118
      I feel my thread getting neglected! Where is the love?

      I'll be in Lucedale Mississippi Aug 5th or so until the8th or 9th, and will be hitting up the Hard Rock Casino in Biloxi if anyone wamts to meet up and make fun of my Jetta.

      I'll also let you in on my secret interior theme concept, as long as it doesn't get mentioned on here until its done


      Before I make a fs thread, would anyone be interested in my wheels? i dunno what theyre worth but i have 2 sets. the set on my car and another in storage. the storage set has rubber, but 2 of the tires are bad. i can get new tires for 10 bucks a pop though

      Last edited by noodlesdefyyou; 07-30-2011 at 08:58 PM.

    14. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      08-03-2011 05:32 AM #119
      I really wish I was lucky enough to acquire about $5000. I found a really nice Porsche for 4500, could probably talk him down to #3800.

      I always find these nice cars/project cars that I'd love to have/work on but never have the cash to get them


      Look at this thing.

      This one seems fishy though.

      (shamelessly disguised as a bump.)

    15. Member FATANG!!'s Avatar
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      08-04-2011 12:35 PM #120
      Quote Originally Posted by noodlesdefyyou View Post
      Thanks! It's at ECS Tuning (I live literally 20 minutes from them) as a Mechanic/Parts installer. I really hope they overlook the lack of ASE Certs and hire me for the drive, motivation, and experience I'll acquire to get my ASE Certs. There's about 7 or 8 that I want to get.

      ASE Certified with A1, A3, A4, A5, A8, and X1 is what I am aiming for. Need 2 years experience to get ASE Certified unless you go to a school. I don't have the time or money for that.

      I've known many a Shadetree mechanic using mostly 2x4s and chains that can outwrench most of the ASE certified idiots out there.

      The tech school by me cranks out certified techs all day long, but they mostly become landscapers.

      A good ASE certified mechanic was a good mechanic before he was certified.

      /end rant.
      Quote Originally Posted by PKstrategy View Post
      easy+mk3= does not always compute
      Quote Originally Posted by sk8too View Post
      It's the car's way of saying I hate what you've done to me and take them out
      -Not quite a Fink, but still a rat. -MK3 OBD1 Issues? Start Here!

    16. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      08-09-2011 01:23 AM #121
      I'm about to leave mississippi, either tonight or tomorrow. I'll be applying for ECS when I get back. Luckily their application said nothing about being ASE certified, so hopefully I can get the job as a parts installer.

    17. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      08-18-2011 04:17 PM #122
      So, I walk outside to find this.







      So, not only am I not able to sleep (due to noise and **** where I'm staying), the city broke my rear tail light the last time they were around, and I was forced to move my car again today so this could happen.

      When I am not so pissed off to the point where I want to shoot something, I will attempt to take that fender off and see how much of it I can pop back out. Pisses me off just thinking about it.
      Last edited by noodlesdefyyou; 08-18-2011 at 04:24 PM.

    18. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      08-20-2011 04:42 PM #123
      Was moving some things in my trunk, and noticed this sticker. There's no floor carpet in the trunk, so it stood out like a sore thumb.



      Pretty interesting this is in the trunk and not on the door frame or under the hood.

    19. Member AJmustDIE's Avatar
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      08-20-2011 04:52 PM #124
      I think all the cars have them in both spots.

      Mine is on my fuel pump cover.
      Quote Originally Posted by root beer View Post
      It's Timmy with mmmmMojo, i have returned
      8VALVETURBO - RIP White Jetta

    20. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      08-20-2011 04:54 PM #125
      Quote Originally Posted by AJmustDIE View Post
      I think all the cars have them in both spots.

      Mine is on my fuel pump cover.
      Most likely. It'd make more sense to have them under the hood, or on the door frame though. At least now I know my paint code without having to look at a list, what engine I have without guessing, and what tranny i have without guessing

    21. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      08-22-2011 02:51 PM #126
      I am getting bombarded with crap happening to me and my car these past 2 weeks. Got hit, got my tail cover chipped, and I just found my passenger mirror shattered. Not to mention the bearings getting worse, and I am pretty sure I'll need to replace the outer tie rod again (might just need an alignment, ill inspect it when I get my wheel bearing/knuckle/rotor).

      Oh, and I was suspended from work for eating a cheese quesadilla without paying for it. I wasn't even told about it till AFTER I got back from my trip. So I won't start work again till this coming Saturday.

      Good news is I am getting things out of my storage unit sold. If anyone needs any house items, let me know. I've got an entire house in a storage unit, and I am selling damn near everything.


      Does it ever end?

    22. Member AJmustDIE's Avatar
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      08-22-2011 02:57 PM #127
      Quote Originally Posted by noodlesdefyyou View Post
      Does it ever end?
      Welcome to mk3.
      Quote Originally Posted by root beer View Post
      It's Timmy with mmmmMojo, i have returned
      8VALVETURBO - RIP White Jetta

    23. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      08-22-2011 03:09 PM #128
      Quote Originally Posted by AJmustDIE View Post
      Welcome to mk3.
      It's a love/hate so far.

    24. Member Citizen_Erased's Avatar
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      08-22-2011 03:37 PM #129
      Quote Originally Posted by noodlesdefyyou View Post

      Does it ever end?
      It ends when you sell the car.

    25. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      08-22-2011 10:47 PM #130
      Quote Originally Posted by Citizen_Erased View Post
      It ends when you sell the car.
      too bad ill never sell it unless im offered like 3 or 4 times what its worth.

    26. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      11-12-2011 07:26 AM #131
      So after a short disappearance and my life up in the air, I finally found some gravity boots to get myself back on the ground. After going through a slight homeless phase, sleeping in my car and on friends couches when I was able, I finally got my own place. And now that my bills are a bit stable (after paying install fees, startup fees, all that happy horsedung) I can finally get back to getting parts for my Jetta. I just shot a message over to MJM Autohaus about some parts, so as soon as they get back to me I'll finally be able to get the front pads, front rotors, and wheel bearing sets all around. I'd get the rear rotors, but they're in decent shape (compared to the warped grounded front rotors).

      I WISH I had enough to get the hubs and bearing housing for the front axles, but rent's gotta come first sadly As soon as I am able to my next goal is to get my exhaust fixed. I had some guy throw a 8' steel ladder at my car for 'driving too fast' while delivering pizza. And by driving too fast I mean my exhaust system is non existent and I was in 2nd gear using downshifting to stop, so my revs were a bit high (just around 5k). After that I hope to have my tax return and get my coilovers and other misc. parts (bushings, sway bars, control arms, etc etc) to compliment the suspension.

      If it also comes down to it, I'll be getting my Red Baron (95 LeBaron soft top) back in January, so that may be up for sale/trade as well. I'll know more when that time comes. Of course, before I sell/trade it I need to replace the front driver fender and the rear shocks at least. So just in case I do get it back (I most likely will, the guy I sold it to is a good friend and hasn't paid squat on it since the 300 deposit back in July), what are some offers you have that may interest me? Cash, Turbo'd VR6 (highly doubtful I'd get that trade, but never hurts to ask), Nice coilovers, another VW (pref Rocco) with little/no rust, etc etc. My ultimate end goal is to become an Amateur Racer (legitimately at the tracks) and take it from there.

      On another note, I would like to formally apologize for my lack of presence for the past 4 months or so. Life's been giving me lemons, but I turned them in to combustible lemons and burned life's house down.

    27. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      11-20-2011 12:07 AM #132
      Getting my Red Baron back. Posted it here.

    28. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      03-01-2012 06:34 AM #133
      It's been a while since I was able to do actual work on my Jetta, but that's what tax returns are for.

      I'll be heading out to Boston to get several much needed parts for my car as well as fixing my exhaust 'properly'. Stay tuned for pics and work.

      On a side note, I've made a few various threads for things I am selling and looking for if anyone is interested.


      WTB Dual Exhaust Tip and Bentley



      FS/FT 2 12" Alpine Type R's w/ 1800wt Amp


      Until pics of said work, I am worthless.

    29. Member builtvw's Avatar
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      03-01-2012 01:22 PM #134
      Quote Originally Posted by noodlesdefyyou View Post
      I found a good deal on some seats, so I'll take a minute and inspect how much rust I have on the interior floor wells. Anyone wanna place some bets?

      Stats:

      97 Jetta, Northeast Ohio car. No idea how long its been here in the north. Few small rust spots forming on the exterior (see previous pages for pics)
      north east... your floors are probably ****ed. and your rockers possibly strut towers
      Quote Originally Posted by ZACHER3tuning View Post
      only on vortex, could this turn into a argument.
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...Project-molest

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      03-01-2012 03:02 PM #135
      I live in CT - i'm with you - last night on my drive home from work i could hear the road salt eating my rockers/floors.

      what can ya do...it's a DD, not a garage queen. i've made out pretty good though - my strut towers are rust free - i just swapped all my struts and shocks last weekend...good luck on your venture, MK3 (or any german in my opinion) is a true love/hate relationship...i've gone from kicking it to thanking it all within 20 mins.

    31. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      03-01-2012 06:42 PM #136
      Strut towers are rust free, rockers on the other hand... not so much.

      Got some work done today. Had a shop reweld my exhaust together with a new pipe and now its quiet as can be. Well, it's still loud if I floor it, but whatever. Also discovered I am in dire need of rear shocks (which I will be pricing after I post this). Here is a new list of critical parts I will be replacing in the near future, money permitting:
      Control Arms, Bushings, Ball Joints, All bearings, All rotors, All pads, Front Hubs, Front Knuckles, Front Shocks (not desperate, but if I'm replacing the rears I may as well replace the front), Starter, PS Delete Loop, and anything else I may have forgot about.

      On a side note: Any idea why my tie rod boots are getting destroyed? I've replaced both inner and outer tie rods, yet my passenger boot keeps getting shredded and I can't figure out why. This is the reasoning behind the PS Delete Loop thingie that someone's selling on here, I'm tired of dealing with it.

      Also, if anyone is looking to get rid of a set of coilovers, I've got a sound system I'll trade for them

    32. Member FATANG!!'s Avatar
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      03-02-2012 12:52 AM #137
      Quote Originally Posted by noodlesdefyyou View Post

      Also discovered I am in dire need of rear shocks (which I will be pricing after I post this). Here is a new list of critical parts I will be replacing in the near future, money permitting:
      Control Arms, Bushings, Ball Joints, All bearings, All rotors, All pads, Front Hubs, Front Knuckles, Front Shocks (not desperate, but if I'm replacing the rears I may as well replace the front), Starter, PS Delete Loop, and anything else I may have forgot about.

      On a side note: Any idea why my tie rod boots are getting destroyed? I've replaced both inner and outer tie rods, yet my passenger boot keeps getting shredded and I can't figure out why. This is the reasoning behind the PS Delete Loop thingie that someone's selling on here, I'm tired of dealing with it.
      The tie rod boot keeps shredding because you are so far toe out that it is rubbing on things. This is due to the rear height in relation to the front. It can only be fixed by restoring correct ride height (or the correct ride angle) or something close to it.

      If you skip the PS delete, and the steering knuckles (re use yours with a new bearing kit) you could buy some springs for the back. New shocks on worn springs is like throwing money away.

      I know your rear springs are shot because it didn't move when you took the box out.

      If I were you I would make a post in the classifeds for a used shock/cup kit for your stereo (maybe plus cash). A temp 60/40 kit while you repair isn't that bad of an idea. A used set of Rokkors or racelands (that aren't seized) couldn't hurt either since your suspension is so far gone.
      Quote Originally Posted by PKstrategy View Post
      easy+mk3= does not always compute
      Quote Originally Posted by sk8too View Post
      It's the car's way of saying I hate what you've done to me and take them out
      -Not quite a Fink, but still a rat. -MK3 OBD1 Issues? Start Here!

    33. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      03-02-2012 01:21 AM #138
      Quote Originally Posted by FATANG!! View Post
      The tie rod boot keeps shredding because you are so far toe out that it is rubbing on things. This is due to the rear height in relation to the front. It can only be fixed by restoring correct ride height (or the correct ride angle) or something close to it.

      If you skip the PS delete, and the steering knuckles (re use yours with a new bearing kit) you could buy some springs for the back. New shocks on worn springs is like throwing money away.

      I know your rear springs are shot because it didn't move when you took the box out.

      If I were you I would make a post in the classifeds for a used shock/cup kit for your stereo (maybe plus cash). A temp 60/40 kit while you repair isn't that bad of an idea. A used set of Rokkors or racelands (that aren't seized) couldn't hurt either since your suspension is so far gone.
      Thanks. I've actually just ordered new shocks to replace the blown ones, and I can get my hands on new coils relatively easily. As much as I love my sound system, I never use it because I simply cannot afford to power it correctly without destroying the battery/alt. I'm a music guy, and what I loved the most about the system was how the lows because audible. However, I may decide to get a nice set of Bose speakers instead. So for now, the system will be removed and sold, and I'll have to live with the torture of no lows (and I'm a metalhead).

      The entire system is already posted as FS/FT. I'm lookin for about $650 for it, so I'd settle for a set of used CX Racing coilovers for trade, even offer to drive for the swap to offset the cost. I'd have to throw cash on top of the system to get Konis, and thats just retarded since the Konis will be worth more than the entire car.

      So once I get the rear situation rectified, the front passenger boot should stop getting shredded? Or should I also look at replacing the control arms/bushings now (as opposed to a month or so from now). I've got a LITTLE bit of extra money to play with right now, but I'd like to put as much as I can towards bills.

    34. Member FATANG!!'s Avatar
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      03-02-2012 01:57 AM #139
      Quote Originally Posted by noodlesdefyyou View Post
      So once I get the rear situation rectified, the front passenger boot should stop getting shredded? Or should I also look at replacing the control arms/bushings now (as opposed to a month or so from now). I've got a LITTLE bit of extra money to play with right now, but I'd like to put as much as I can towards bills.
      Should. Bad CA bushings alone might shred it also, though. When your suspension is off angle, as in your case, along with questionable rubber for various mounts, your steering system gets twisted and stressed. Do whatever you can to resolve this first.

      Besides shredding the boot, you are killing tires, and prematurely wearing out parts.

      You should replace the shocks/struts on all four corners, along with mounts, Balljoints, and CA bushings along with at least new springs in the rear. That should stop most of your issues.

      Are the front wheel bearings bad? If they aren't, don't mess with them yet, use the $$ elsewhere.

      Have you checked your motor mounts? The OEM rubber is about worthless, more so this many years later. It could also account for alot of the movement in the suspension/damage. Easiest way to check, just grab the back of the intake manifold and pull towards the front of the car, if it moves at all, you need new mounts. There are three: Front, rear, and trans. Bad mounts alone could shred that boot. Bad CA bushings and bad mounts coulld as well.

      You said the rear wheel bearings are bad, and you need brakes, so start at the rear, along with some control arm bushings for the front (unless you don't have access to the press, in which case, buy the whole arm), then motor mounts (if they are spongy), then move onto front brakes and wheel bearings.

      The rear wheel bearings are inside the rear rotor. So:

      Rear wheel bearing kit (with new races), 2 new rear rotors, rear pads, and some grease. Should be like 150 or less if you do not break off a bleeder. You don't really need the special tool for the rear breaks, just a Quik Clamp and some bigger needle nose or snap ring pliers.

      Since you bought the shocks, you just need a set of rear springs and the upper mounts, then you can stop worrying about that half and move on to what is left in the front.

      ...and yeah, no bass sucks...
      Quote Originally Posted by PKstrategy View Post
      easy+mk3= does not always compute
      Quote Originally Posted by sk8too View Post
      It's the car's way of saying I hate what you've done to me and take them out
      -Not quite a Fink, but still a rat. -MK3 OBD1 Issues? Start Here!

    35. Member noodlesdefyyou's Avatar
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      03-02-2012 02:44 AM #140
      oh man are the front bearings bad. theyve been howlin since about 5000 miles ago. at least the driver side has. had intentions of replacing them when i replace the rotors pads and hubs, was trying to avoid the control arms/bushings/mounts until i get the front suspension. i mean, why take it all apart twice? its my daily, and i have very limited time and space do do little things here and there.

      as far as the rear bearings go, i COULD replace them, but i did replace them about 5000 miles ago after the car sat for a year or so, not sure if i did it right though. i just 'slid' them on and greased them up really good with bearing grease, no pressing at all. do the rear bearings need pressed in, or can they just be slipped on like that? im pretty sure the rear caliper seized up so i replaced it, come to find out it may have been my ebrake cable stuck. i thought the caliper was seized because i couldnt depress the piston when i was changing the pads. tried 'screwing' it, completely removing the breather valve, and broke 3 different piston press tools.

      the more and more i look at the parts on this car, the more i think that NOTHINGS been replaced since 97. the alternator has the original vw logo, mfg date of 06/97 on it. cant tell what the battery is cause the paper is so weathered. bushings/mounts are there, put look shot to hell and back.

      thanks for the info about the boots though, i think ill hold off on getting a new boot for now, and may just bite the bullet and replace the control arms/bushings without the front suspension. but i REALLY dont want to take it apart twice right now. if i had more time and/or another running car sure no problem.

      edit: oh, i completely forgot. the rear rotors look like 33 1/3's. as in, the records. i really wish all my bills would magically disappear so i can dump all my money in to parts i need
      Last edited by noodlesdefyyou; 03-02-2012 at 02:46 AM.

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