Here are some pics, it should give you an idea:
http://www.kineticmotorsport.com/tec...nstallpics.pdf
#1
So started the tear down to boost my 24v... and quickly took a look at the front end and my Kinetic front mount intercooler - but I haven't the slightest idea where to mount it??
Front end:
Intercooler:
I'll move along with the other stuff for now - but would I have to sawzall the re-bar? Where the hell do I mount those tabs (on the intercooler) to the front end? Anyone have pics installed?
Thanks
#2
Here are some pics, it should give you an idea:
http://www.kineticmotorsport.com/tec...nstallpics.pdf
#3
"OP sounds like a MKIV guy"
#4
having the same problem, did anyone figure it out? cause all internet sources about this kit get rerouted to cts's homepage?
#5
First of all, I gotta say, the support from kinetics is THE WORST of any business I have ever dealt with.
I installed a stage two kit this winter in my MK4 Jetta, and had so many issues, it was unreal.
Anyways, core mounts with the ports at the bottom, the tigged brackets pointing up, facing forward.
You take a disc grinder and cut the lip off the bottom of the steel bumper, cuz you'll dull every blade you have using a saw, the bumper must be made of spring steel.
I got some aluminum bar stock roughly the size of the brackets and fabbed straps that I bolted onto the front of the bumper and bolted the cooler straps to them. With minor carving, the foam stays on.
There is no way I could find a way keep the stock bumper cover, I order a Vortex from Extreme Dimensions. There is a bit modifying to make that one work. so I'm leaving my carved up stock cover on and building my own hot/cold piping this winter so I don't have to completely butcher the new cover. Kinetics 'master fabricator' makes crap piping. Maybe he's smoking crack piping while he bends up the junk that they send out.
It's kind of a pain getting pictures up on this site, e-mail me at bikertard@hotmail.com and I can send you some pics.
I did the entire kit myself this winter, the local shop that I choose wasn't that great for help either, so there was a lot of head scratching going on. I have a buddy who works for the local dealer, he was a MASSIVE asset!
The car is running now, I did a LOT of learning, and there is a bunch of stuff to re-do this winter.
Meth kit, external oil cooler, proper hot n cold piping, etc.
It runs freakishly fast, makes more boost than I know what to do with, and hasn't broken anything yet, other than my brain. I have about a thousand km on it now and some new front tires, we'll see what happens next.
#6
TBH I sold this and got a Eurojet race FMIC. Much, much, much easier install and pipes are hidden without the need for cutting / trimming on a Votex bumper.
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#7
#8
"OP sounds like a MKIV guy"
#10
1. I don't need your turbo pro-building tip.
2. If you go to sleep at night convinced that you are the first person with a cutoff wheel then you are more stupid than your screen name is.
3. Remember ANY tool is as accurate as the user. Your inability to use a sawzall is independent of me, go practice.
4. When you have built the number of forced induction cars that I have get back at me.
"OP sounds like a MKIV guy"
#11
1. If you like doing things the hard way; that's fine. I personally wouldn't recommend using a sawzall for anything precision. Its a demolition tool.
2. Nope. Im pretty sure more automotive professionals would agree with my choice of tools thanks.
3. Im a general contractor for a living, and have plenty of experience with a sawzall. Consequently i know their limitations. Sure it can be used, but why use a chainsaw when a scalpel should be used?
4. I've built more Turbo cars than you. The username is new, I am not. When you signed up here in 05'; I already had ten years under my belt.![]()
#12
I sincerely doubt that.
You are pretty cocky, which is fine if you are intelligent... you are not.
If you had a hint of analytical ability you would realize that my original post was in direct response to a question about a Sawzall, the angle grinder was not introduced in the conversation up to this point.
Since you wanted to make a contribution why would you not do so on your own merit? You had to dick ride my post to validate your own. FYI, you have NO clue how long I have been doing forced induction, just saying.
Go build houses and/or find a Home Depot thread to troll... Mr General Contractor and stop derailing the nature of the thread.
Pro-tip.![]()
"OP sounds like a MKIV guy"
#13
Shouldn't you be shopping eBay right now for your next build?
You offered a hack solution, and I offered a clean proper solution; yet you're questioning MY experience?
Sawzall is a demo tool. There are many much cleaner, more efficient ways to cut steel.
I apologize for stepping on your dick; as your hack methods are the only obvious solution![]()
Last edited by Rod Ratio; 09-02-2012 at 12:38 PM.
#14
you got the job done with the sawzall, but that does look pretty hacked up. It looks like you turned that part of the bumper you cut into a giant steak knife. also, jeff wasn't the only one to recommend a grinder, and I also would have used a grinder for that job. to hack off some exhaust piping, sawzall all day.
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My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, GodSpeed Aluminum Radiator, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESSPAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*
#15
"OP sounds like a MKIV guy"
#17
My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, GodSpeed Aluminum Radiator, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESSPAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*
#19
· ·we're only gonna die for our own arrogance that's why we might as well take our time...
· · /
· · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · On a long enough timeline, the survival rate for everyone drops to Ø
#20
FYI in the above pics I used an acetylene torch. Then I used an angle grinder to clean things up.
Last edited by 24vGTiVR6; 09-05-2012 at 01:16 PM.
#21
Rich, I've got your old set-up sitting in my basement waiting to go onto my TDI next spring
The whole sawz-all vs. angle grinder was funny to watch. Plasma would have that rebar cut-out in about 5 minutes max, plus clean-up time with a grinder. All depends what tools one has access to at the time... I just liked the boobies & mini-skirt in the photo!
zombie threads can be dangerous... boosting cars should not...
· ·we're only gonna die for our own arrogance that's why we might as well take our time...
· · /
· · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · On a long enough timeline, the survival rate for everyone drops to Ø
#22
I'm glad you're so familiar with my work - don't really know how so. You actually confuse/concern me.
Seems to indicative of my earlier statement that you are a troll and unable to comment unless you have someone else's statement to springboard off. Yes, you will probably respond yet again.
You should probably be more concerned with your retirement plan, Viagra, Propecia and diabetic meds rather than my intercooler installation techniques.![]()
"OP sounds like a MKIV guy"
#23
#24
"OP sounds like a MKIV guy"
#27