How it looks now...still in winter mode:
With DRL only:
With all the lightning switched on:
hey Randy i have a question for you.
I have a golf tdi with fogs and halogens. based on what ive read here, that will give me a midline cecm. basically this is my plan.
I want to have the 2011 projector (non LED) bixenons but dont really care for auto leveling or any of that. are the motors and such needed or can I just install the projectors and manually aim them and have them work?
if thats the case will I still need to upgrade to a highline cecm?
ps. sorry if that was covered in the thread, if it was I didnt catch it.
thanks for any input
Can you post pictures/trick if you know about it ?
A little FYI on the highline cecm sourcing. Prices at oemplus and ECS, etc. were higher than I'd like, US EBay never has them, so decided to hit eBay Germany. Jackpot! German eBay is flush with highlines and I got mine for under $200 shipped...not bad and it is late enough to support LEDs.
I am in the process of installing the Bixenon + LED in my halogen US specs 2010 TDI mk6. I was lucky to have the highline CECM with 576 software flashed by the dealer as a routine update in 2011. I want to note that the car had factory installed this module altough it was a fogs+halogen version. So there are highline CECM out there even without factory xenon.
As much I understand, the AFS modules need to have a CAN+ and CAN- connection getting into the headlight. The original halogen connector obviously does not carry those lines. However, the Kufatec auto leveling adapter has 2 can lines that go into the headlights. The auto leveling module also connects to the CAN bus on the car side. So as much I understand the steering wheel position data goes from the CECM (?) via CAN into the auto leveling module, mixes up with the leveling sensor data from the rear axle sensor and then from there goes to the Bixenon headlights to the AFS modules to move the lights via the 2 can lines running into each headlight. To make this more complicated the, AFS need an ignition 12V+ on, so they can be active and on-line even with lights off. Maybe you can also connect them to the actual bulb Xenon power, but then they will go on/off with the lights.
I am still about to install the auto leveling sensor, module and the CAN wires. I have a german step by step guide with pictures. So I have not tried out what I describe above. Please correct me if you know better.
I also played arround a lot with the halogen 10-pin connector and was not able to find anywhere the correct pin-out. So here is what you have on the halogen 10-pin connector:
4 - DRL
5 - GROUND
6 - low beam
8 - high beam
9 - turn signal
10 - parking light
In order to get the Xenon HID to work the adapter will have to do the following transformation:
10 pin halogen ----> 14 pin xenon:
4 to 12
5 to fork up to 5 + 7
6 to 6
9 to 9
10 to 10
direct from BCM wire to 11 for high beam shutter
Now what is interesting for the LED to work, I found out that you need to supply power to both pin 10 and 12 at the same time. If the power is only to one of these they wont turn on. This is an interesting finding and some people corrected this with just connecting 10 and 12 withing the adapter. This is why you need to recode. Normally the DLR go off anytime you turn on any other light. That is why the LED won't work on the halogen programed setting.
the pin 1 and 2 on the 14-pin xenon are for CAN high and CAN low from the leveling module. Pin 4 apparently needs a constant 12V ignition to keep the AFS modules on at all times. These wires have to be threated to the headlight. This can be done in conjunction with the shutter wire.
Last edited by vukymk6; 03-25-2012 at 08:59 PM.
Hi, i'm planning on installing the autoleveling kit. But to save some money it seams that if you buy all peaces seperate you could save at lease 100€...
The only problem is that i don't know the part number of the Leveling Sensor needed for my car..
Can anyone help me with this??
So i need the controller; 5M0907357C
The wiring from Kuftech.
And the leveling sensor ??????PN?????
Does anyone know if you need one or two leveling sensors?? I think only one on the rear left???
Installing on a Golf VI GTI (2010 2doors)
If i get all the parts i'll try to make a DIY!
I've placed the order for the R-line housing which is on back-order until Oct. 7th:
R line housing is the only bi-xenon option that looks good. GTI bi-xenons have too much chrome, imo
2015 Oryx White Golf R. DSG, DCC and NAV
2012 GTI, 4-door, DSG, Deep Black Pearl Metallic, Base Model. - squashed by a Winnebago
Anyone have any recommendations on where to draw a constant 12v source for the AFS headlight modules; and where to purchase or create the correct wiring? Pin 4 is occupied with the 14 pin kufatec harness--pin 3 is open would that be the pin to connect in order to provide power? Or do I tie power to pin 4?
Last edited by jackchit; 09-10-2012 at 10:03 PM.
no it works however it is setup to perform autolevel function not AFS; from what I have read and the schematics I have, pin 4 may need a little juice to keep the AFS modules on and able to communicate with the sensor placed behind the steering wheel. However I don't know for certain...
I wish; autolevel for what I know only deals with the vertical motion of the xenon light in order to accommodate for increased weight in the back. AFS deals with movement of the xenon light in accordance with the steering wheel at a certain speed. The kufatec retrofit is for autolevel, however their harness may only lack on step--power to the AFS modules on either headlight which will allow them to come online and communicate with the range control module which came with the kufatec retrofit. And from the schematics, pin 4 of the 14 pin harness may be the pin that requires a 12v+ connection. (** at least this is what I believe right now)
And did the kufatec harness come with connectors for both Front AND rear sensors? I called kufatec and they said the golf 6 only needs the rear sensors
Pin 1 does not have an input on the stock harness and the kufatec harness runs from pin 1(stock side) to 4 (14 pin side); 4 requires an additional 12 volt continuous power; once hardwired in everything works like a charm; just had to recode the master control module for address 55 to 1446940...