Intercooler on a Neuspeed supercharger

[VWxghost]

The cost of intercooling the supercharger with the space constraints under the hood made it not cost effective.

The best way to get the most power is:
C2 42# software.
9.0:1 forged pistons
Big valve/ ported to shiz head
Schrick turbo grind Stage 4 G60 cam and valvetrain
Methanol injection
2.4" pulley
A/C delete
P/S delete
Tuned length race header
S-ported housing
5th gen rotors

With the above, you can go to 12-14psi, kicking on the meth injection at WOT. You won't need the intercooler, and you should be making 220 WHP with a good clutch and built trans.

I have the head specs and cam specs needed to do this. I also have a NEW blower with the s-port
and teflon rotors.

edit: Jettared made 15psi

[cetanepusher]

edit: Jettared made 15psi

Wonder what it put to the wheels? the slush box trans rob almost 35% of the engines power.

Imagine just having 170WHP in a MKI or MKII, and peak torque at under 4000 rpm.

[VWxghost]

Wonder what it put to the wheels? the slush box trans rob almost 35% of the engines power.

Imagine just having 170WHP in a MKI or MKII, and peak torque at under 4000 rpm.

[cetanepusher]

Needs a smaller pulley, and you need to pull the brass orifice out of the vaccum inlet on the actuator with the linkage setups. It will allow the motor to "come on" boost quicker. The linkage actually takes more effort to pull, and slows the actuation, pull the orifice and problem solved.

[blubayou]

It's not going to work. As soon as you put heat to the manifold (I/E weld it) the bearing bores will be out of spec, and it will knock. Basically the call out on the bearing bores for the rotors, is +/- 0.0002

Trust me, all you did was destroy a good housing. The rotors are never gonna spin right in those bores again.

I see what you mean, though I have already reinstalled the rotors and spun the charger to a decent rpm level with no detectable knock. The welds aren't right by the rotor housing and they weren't done in one shot, so heat on the rotor housing was minimal. The rotor housing wasn't hot to touch with a bare hand and was arguably cooler than it might be when running the engine hard for any extended period of time.

There is still a bit of work to be done, and if I find that there is an issue with the rotor housing at some point, I'll be the first to admit that I f'd it up. No big deal. I'll pick up another non-neuspeed charger that I can make fit with custom mounts and an adapter plate on the outlet. Afterall, the only special thing about the Neuspeed charger is the fact that it includes the integrated manifold, which could also be seen as its biggest downfall if you're looking to increase its output.

Or I could just go to a turbo

The cost of intercooling the supercharger with the space constraints under the hood made it not cost effective.

The best way to get the most power is:
C2 42# software.
9.0:1 forged pistons
Big valve/ ported to shiz head
Schrick turbo grind Stage 4 G60 cam and valvetrain
Methanol injection
2.4" pulley
A/C delete
P/S delete
Tuned length race header
S-ported housing
5th gen rotors

With the above, you can go to 12-14psi, kicking on the meth injection at WOT. You won't need the intercooler, and you should be making 220 WHP with a good clutch and built trans.

I have the head specs and cam specs needed to do this. I also have a NEW blower with the s-port
and teflon rotors.

Do you mean that it wasn't cost effective for neuspeed or for me?

What's your cost estimate for all of the above, if you don't mind me asking, and has anyone actually run that setup to see the expected results? I don't think I've seen anyone come even close to 220whp with a neuspeed charger, even 200whp. It would seem like you would have a pretty healthy investment in the above.

I'd like to know more about the s-ported housing if you have any info to share. Sent you a PM, too

Thanks - Greg

[cetanepusher]

I see what you mean, though I have already reinstalled the rotors and spun the charger to a decent rpm level with no detectable knock. The welds aren't right by the rotor housing and they weren't done in one shot, so heat on the rotor housing was minimal. The rotor housing wasn't hot to touch with a bare hand and was arguably cooler than it might be when running the engine hard for any extended period of time.

There is still a bit of work to be done, and if I find that there is an issue with the rotor housing at some point, I'll be the first to admit that I f'd it up. No big deal. I'll pick up another non-neuspeed charger that I can make fit with custom mounts and an adapter plate on the outlet. Afterall, the only special thing about the Neuspeed charger is the fact that it includes the integrated manifold, which could also be seen as its biggest downfall if you're looking to increase its output.

Or I could just go to a turbo



Do you mean that it wasn't cost effective for neuspeed or for me?

What's your cost estimate for all of the above, if you don't mind me asking, and has anyone actually run that setup to see the expected results? I don't think I've seen anyone come even close to 220whp with a neuspeed charger, even 200whp. It would seem like you would have a pretty healthy investment in the above.

I'd like to know more about the s-ported housing if you have any info to share. Sent you a PM, too

Thanks - Greg

220whp was on E85 and 11:1 pistons. with 9:1 pistons and 91 octane, with serious headwork, 180-190 is more realistic at 7k + rpm.
S-ported housings were not available to the public. It's something I did on my housing.

If you want to get more power, I'd suggest a cutom MP62 setup with the intercooler. It could be mounted in much the same way as the Bahn Brenner setup.

[blubayou]

good info. I'll see what happens with the 45 and keep an eye out for an mp62 if I'm not happy with the results

[blubayou]

any chance of seeing a dyno of the 220whp run? I'd love to see what it looks like

[cetanepusher]

any chance of seeing a dyno of the 220whp run? I'd love to see what it looks like

I don't have any video, and it was done a quite a few years ago.

[blubayou]

oh, I was just looking for a plot. no worries if you don't have it though

[cetanepusher]

That I do have, however its proprietary data.

[jcthelight]

Needs a smaller pulley, and you need to pull the brass orifice out of the vaccum inlet on the actuator with the linkage setups. It will allow the motor to "come on" boost quicker. The linkage actually takes more effort to pull, and slows the actuation, pull the orifice and problem solved.

What orfice are you talking about pic please?

[cetanepusher]

What orfice are you talking about pic please?

The vaccumm line going from the manifold/rotor housing to the bypass actuator. Pull the line off and there will be a small brass fitting on the actuator. pull that off for quicker boost response and bypass.

NOT recomended unless your using the linkage setups for hood clearance on MKI chassis cars.

If you do it on a MKIV, you'll **** a piston.

[blubayou]

That I do have, however its proprietary data.

Thought that might be the case.

[Jay-Bee]

McNeil made 155whp with his NS/SC setup. I don't know where all these 170+ numbers are coming from.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...yno-with-video

[VWxghost]

McNeil made 155whp with his NS/SC setup. I don't know where all these 170+ numbers are coming from.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...yno-with-video

theres no head work or water meth on that list, that may be why

[cetanepusher]

McNeil made 155whp with his NS/SC setup. I don't know where all these 170+ numbers are coming from.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...yno-with-video

Thats a pretty basic setup. With major portwork, a dedicated dual pattern high lift forced induction cam, pistons and smaller pulley, along with lower compression 9:1 (pump gas) or higher compression 11:1 (e85) 200+ Whp is easily obtainable. You can work that blower to make 14psi if you know what your doing.

This part # is a must: 244.01.681-02

[blubayou]

The vaccumm line going from the manifold/rotor housing to the bypass actuator. Pull the line off and there will be a small brass fitting on the actuator. pull that off for quicker boost response and bypass.

NOT recomended unless your using the linkage setups for hood clearance on MKI chassis cars.

If you do it on a MKIV, you'll **** a piston.

Would it do the same on an ABA?

[VWxghost]

hey guys i finally have the charger fully installed. I love the whine

[blubayou]

[cetanepusher]

Would it do the same on an ABA?

Eh, probably not so bad. Weight of the car IE: torque resistance is the issue. Considering a MKI is close to 1000 lbs lighter than a MKIV, its not so harsh on the motor.

[blubayou]

Ah, I see. I've got mine on an ABA in a mk2, so kinda in between. I checked out that fitting on mine last night and it has a TINY hole in it. I can see how pulling it should make a noticeable difference. I didn't remove it, but wondered if it would be something to consider doing on mine for quicker response (or maybe even just opening up the hole in the fitting a bit).

[hookdub]

The following is ment to try to keep in the 16000 RPM supercharger limit.

With 6500 RPM rev limiter the smallest pulley you could run is a 2.2". That would put the actual blower RPM @ 16250

Raising the engine limit to 7000 would put you to a 2.4"pulley putting the blower @ 16042 RPM

The variability in these setups is when the blower comes on with respect to the engine RPM. I realy wouldn't think any of these setups would affect max boost. I'm currently running close to the latter set up. I just wanted to see if people have tried both and what they like.

Im running the C2 30# set up
TT 268/260 cam
TT dual valve springs
2.4" pulley

BTW thanks for the tip on removing the small brass fitting. I'm currently wrestling with my clutch set up. Long story, but after I get the parts checked its possible that the I got 2 flywheels that were machined wrong by the manufacturer. After I get it back on the road I'll have to try pulling that restrictive orifice.

[hookdub]

Oh, I one thing.

Considering the amount of work it would take to get an IC on the neuspeed SC, I always figured with the amount of work it would take to fab something up is beter directed in a different set up. Wouldn't time be beter spent on customing an M62 setup? I mean to have to cut, weld, machine and plumb it up, you may as well have a blower that can put out more volume, be more underdriven, and be closer to the efficient point in the boost map. Im not sure what the parasitic drag of an M45 is compared to the M62, but maybe thats the point? I wonder what the drag of an M45 is putting out 13# and compare it to an M62 putting out comperable volume/pressure? That is the big question!

..............and that whine from the Eaton is the sh*t.

[Glegor]

Do you guys think that 170 is realistic on the charger? As of right now i have an AT260 cam in there. I should be putting the charger on in like a week when i get the rest of the parts...But when i'm done i should have:
-C2 or United tune with 40lb injectors
-Full cold air intake (in fender)
-at 260 cam
-W/M
-Full exhaust
-2.2" pulley
-eventually a port job

I mean i have seen dynos up to like 176 IIRC

why are you running such a little cam? you are aware that a bigger cam will make bigger power on your setup?

[VWxghost]

why are you running such a little cam? you are aware that a bigger cam will make bigger power on your setup?

its what the PO did before i bought the car

[cetanepusher]

Ah, I see. I've got mine on an ABA in a mk2, so kinda in between. I checked out that fitting on mine last night and it has a TINY hole in it. I can see how pulling it should make a noticeable difference. I didn't remove it, but wondered if it would be something to consider doing on mine for quicker response (or maybe even just opening up the hole in the fitting a bit).

It will make the car come on boost and off boost way quick. It will also void the Nuespeed warranty.

Not recomended on the heavy cars, or for a daily driver. No reason to screw with the size. Basically, when you want to dick around, take it off, when your daily driving it, put it back on.

Think of it this way, it will slam the bypass shut a LOT faster, slaming the pistons with boost a LOT faster.

[cetanepusher]

The following is ment to try to keep in the 16000 RPM supercharger limit.

With 6500 RPM rev limiter the smallest pulley you could run is a 2.2". That would put the actual blower RPM @ 16250

Raising the engine limit to 7000 would put you to a 2.4"pulley putting the blower @ 16042 RPM

The variability in these setups is when the blower comes on with respect to the engine RPM. I realy wouldn't think any of these setups would affect max boost. I'm currently running close to the latter set up. I just wanted to see if people have tried both and what they like.

Im running the C2 30# set up
TT 268/260 cam
TT dual valve springs
2.4" pulley

BTW thanks for the tip on removing the small brass fitting. I'm currently wrestling with my clutch set up. Long story, but after I get the parts checked its possible that the I got 2 flywheels that were machined wrong by the manufacturer. After I get it back on the road I'll have to try pulling that restrictive orifice.

Where are you getting your supercharger RPM data?

[cetanepusher]

do you thinking you could swap out the snout for a longer one, moving the rotors further from the alternator? Not sure how long of a snout you can get though

Snouts can be had in pretty much any length you need. Contact Magnacharger.

As for the MP62, it would be great on a 2.0, but If I were doing it I would wait a few more months. Eaton doesn't just make the new TVS rotors in 1900 and 2300. They are available in R410cc, R900cc, R1320cc, and R1650cc .

[cetanepusher]

I went back and reread this post because you can do a better ignition system i seen a thread here on the tex that someone with the wasted spark system used 2 msd coils wired up to the module and it worked. I'd say give that a shot along with everything else.

I ran one MSD Blaster and it worked bitchin, It's for sale as well.

[blubayou]

It will make the car come on boost and off boost way quick. It will also void the Nuespeed warranty.

Not recomended on the heavy cars, or for a daily driver. No reason to screw with the size. Basically, when you want to dick around, take it off, when your daily driving it, put it back on.

Think of it this way, it will slam the bypass shut a LOT faster, slaming the pistons with boost a LOT faster.

Makes perfect sense not worried about the neuspeed warranty on mine. that's long gone

[VWxghost]

got my green tops today just need a 3" vr maf housing or a billet housing. I forgot ask a while ago, what are the benefits of going to a C2 or United 42# tune rather than the stock neuspeed tune?

[cetanepusher]

c2 has a lot of Supercharged application experience. IE datalogs.

[91RedWagen]

w long t e to build?

[jcthelight]

I ran one MSD Blaster and it worked bitchin, It's for sale as well.

How did you run one? What coil setup do you have?