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    Thread: TSI Intake Manifold Removal DIY + Valve Cleaning

    1. Member
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      07-06-2011 12:06 AM #1
      I've shared an album of pictures of the removal. Look for the red arrows pointing to the bolts, screws, sensors, etc. I apologize for the iphone quality.

      Link to Picture Album:

      http://s758.photobucket.com/albums/x...old%20Removal/

      Overall the removal is pretty easy and straightforward. Just take your time removing and disconnecting everything. Take pics so you can reference during the reinstall. Overall removal time is about 1-2 hours depending on your speed and access to tools. Having the right tools makes it simple.

      Tools Needed

      • Sharpie marker and plastic baggies to store screws / bolts and label where they came from
      • 3/8’ inch ratchet with 90* adjustable angled head
      • Socket that will hold torx bits
      • #10 triple square (12 point)
      • T-30 bit for all manifold related screws
      • 9” ratchet extensions
      • Protective gloves
      • Respiratory mask for valve cleaning
      • 17mm open wrench
      • 10mm socket for disconnecting battery
      • Sockets for hose clamps on throttle body, etc.
      • GM Top Engine Cleaner, Part# 1052626 (aerosol can)
      • Shop rags
      • Wire brushes (cylinder bottle type)
      • Metal pics
      • Compressed air
      • Vacuum cleaner
      • Good ventilation


      Manifold Removal

      1. Lift front end of car
      2. Disconnect fuel pressure sensor on top of fuel pump; turn on car and let idle for 10-15 seconds to lower fuel pressure from pump and rail.
      3. Disconnect battery
      4. Remove air intake (I have a Carbonio intake; I could have probably kept it on the car but it made it much easier to get to the fuel pump with it off)
      5. Remove throttle body pipe
      6. Disconnect PCV hose from manifold and PCV assembly on engine.
      7. Disconnect sensor located on head beside PCV assembly.
      8. Remove the 2 T-30screws that hold down the fuel rail and the 1T-30screw holding EVAP hose on top of mani. Use wire tie to suspend fuel rail out of the way. (I used the hood bracket and engine lift bracket to tie wire-ties around.
      9. Remove 1 T-30screw on top of mani that is holding down fuel hard line .
      10. Remove 2 T-30screws for wiring harness assembly that connects to the mani on the right side; remove sensors from assembly and take note of their orientation so you can assemble them into the wiring bracket later.
      11. Remove 1 T-30screw located left of throttle body that holds the coolant line harness to mani.
      12. Remove 1 T-30screw located on far left side of coolant harness (about 6” left of throttle body).
      13. Disconnect spring clamp from purge valve and pull purge valve hose from valve. – store hose out of the way.
      14. Place rags underneath bolt attaching fuel line to fuel rail assembly under intake mani , disconnect bolt using a 17mm open wrench then disconnect bolt under fuel pump using 17mm wrench. Use caution cause fuel will spill and may be under pressure if step # 2 wasn’t followed correctly. Use eye protection.
      15. Disconnect vacuum actuator flapper sensor by sliding off of assembly mounted to mani and remove the vacuum line.
      16. Disconnect fuel pressure sensor located underneath 1&2 runners.
      17. Remove throttle body sensors.
      18. Remove throttle body by unscrewing 4T-30bolts located underneath the throttle body assembly.
      19. Disconnect EVAP hose from manifold located underneath runners 2&3
      20. Remove the M10 triple square bolt for the intake manifold support bracket to the engine. This bolt is difficult to see. The location is below the intake manifold and behind the throttle body.
      21. Remove the 5 upper T-30 bolts fastening the intake manifold to the cylinder head.
      22. Remove the 2 additional lower T-30 bolts are accessible just above and to the left and right of the TB Module.
      23. Remove the additional two M6 nuts located on the underside of the cylinder 1 and 4 intake runners.
      24. Disconnect sensor on right side of oil filter / left side of mani; I believe this is the power source for the fuel injectors IIRC
      25. Verify that all sensors are disconnected
      26. Verify that everything has been disconnected then gently pull up on manifold making sure fuel injectors don’t stay connected to fuel rail assembly. It’s okay if the injectors stay connected but it will most likely leak fuel onto the engine.

      Valve Cleaning

      1. Wear protective mask and gloves at all times. The GM cleaner is very strong and harmful to inhale and touch!! Use caution and common sense.
      2. The GM cleaner works very, very well. It does most of the work for you. You just have to be patient mopping up the carbon soup it creates in your intake ports.
      3. Remove intake flaps and soak in GM cleaner. Use wire brushes if necessary to scrape off the excessive amounts of carbon. Use rags to wipe away the carbon. Keep applying cleaner to areas that have the most build-up.
      4. Hand turn the belt around alternator to turn the crank so it closes off valves on intake side. Once closed, spray GM cleaner into each valve one at a time. Let soak for 10 minutes then scrape with wire bottle brushes to loosen carbon. Tear apart 2” x 2” rags to use to soak up GM cleaner from each valve port. Use picks to move rags between the front and back of valves thoroughly cleaning all sides and “mopping” up the dirty cleaner. Keep repeating until valves are shiny silver. Use vacuum to suck out carbon bits. Use compressed air to assist with cleaning. Be careful not get bits of carbon in your eyes.
      '09 GTI TSI 11.53@121.18
      '12 TT-RS TBD!

    2. Member JRMGTI's Avatar
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      07-06-2011 01:06 PM #2
      Excellent write-up. Lucky for me just got the new manifold and valve cleaning done under warranty.
      2012 VW Golf R Rising Blue 2-DR | APR Carbonio Intake | APR Stage 1 ECU | Clear Sidemarkers | R Mats | Blind Spot Mirrors | H&R Sport Springs | 19x8 TSW Nurburgring Wheels | 235/35/19 Michelin Pilot Super Sports | Gone.

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    3. Member
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      07-06-2011 01:47 PM #3
      Quote Originally Posted by JRMGTI View Post
      Excellent write-up. Lucky for me just got the new manifold and valve cleaning done under warranty.
      '09 GTI TSI 11.53@121.18
      '12 TT-RS TBD!

    4. Member onevrsix's Avatar
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      07-06-2011 04:19 PM #4
      You Sr. I owe a Beer and a hand shake! I plan on ordering a manifold very soon and wasn't sure if I was going to tackle this myself, but after reading your write up, I'm more than confident I can pull it off

    5. Member
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      07-06-2011 07:44 PM #5
      Quote Originally Posted by onevrsix View Post
      You Sr. I owe a Beer and a hand shake! I plan on ordering a manifold very soon and wasn't sure if I was going to tackle this myself, but after reading your write up, I'm more than confident I can pull it off
      Cool bro. It's intimidating when you look at it. Let me know how it goes and PM me if you need help in the process.
      '09 GTI TSI 11.53@121.18
      '12 TT-RS TBD!

    6. Junior Member Made in America's Avatar
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      07-07-2011 05:49 PM #6
      Thanks for the write up. I'm thinking of selling my 2010 VW Passat Wagon because of this issue. But I may not sell it if I can do this procedure myself. The thought of having to fork out $700 every 40k miles is nauseating.

      I'm wondering if investing in a borescope like this might be helpful? Would it be easy to put this down the pipe and see the fuel injectors without ripping it apart?
      Last edited by Made in America; 07-10-2011 at 12:13 AM.

    7. Member
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      07-07-2011 07:00 PM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by Made in America View Post
      Thanks for the right up. I'm thinking of selling my 2010 VW Passat Wagon because of this issue. But I may not sell it if I can do this procedure myself. The thought of having to fork out $700 every 40k miles is nauseating.

      I'm wondering if investing in a borescope like this might be helpful? Would it be easy to put this down the pipe and see the fuel injectors without ripping it apart?

      I wouldn't buy the scope and you don't need to do this every 40k. I'm a performance guy so I wanted to do it but you could go 80-100+k miles without needing to do it. The only time you really need to do it is if you experience misfires,loss of performance, cold start issues.

      Will a scope work? Yes. Just go through the IAT sensor and make sure the camera and camera tube diameter will fit into the IAT port before you buy it.
      '09 GTI TSI 11.53@121.18
      '12 TT-RS TBD!

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      07-07-2011 09:59 PM #8
      I've updated the photo album with some better pics of the dirty valves and removed the bad pics. I've also placed some helpful installation notes in the description fields of the photos that have titles (excluding the cylinder pics).
      '09 GTI TSI 11.53@121.18
      '12 TT-RS TBD!

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      07-09-2011 07:42 PM #9
      How many miles did you have on the tsi when you did this? Just to get an idea of what I can expect in my engine. Thanks.

    10. Member
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      07-09-2011 09:54 PM #10
      Roughly 48k
      '09 GTI TSI 11.53@121.18
      '12 TT-RS TBD!

    11. Member onevrsix's Avatar
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      07-10-2011 05:38 PM #11
      I just ordered my manifold today; I have a question though. where did you find the Triple square tool? I want to make sure I have all the correct parts before I tackle this. So looking forward to getting this replaced, I simply cannot take it any more.

    12. Member VWRedux's Avatar
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      07-10-2011 07:22 PM #12
      Nice write-up. A better way than using all that dangerous paint killing solvent (not to mention what it does to your eyes, skin, and lungs) is to blast it clean using a forced walnut shell blaster instead. Just make sure both valves for that cylinder are closed, and have someone hold a powerful vac to suck up the shells and debris as you work blasting out the port. I've done this for decades without issue.
      "There's nothing like a well tuned car on an open road". Paul Newman
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      07-11-2011 10:08 AM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by onevrsix View Post
      I just ordered my manifold today; I have a question though. where did you find the Triple square tool? I want to make sure I have all the correct parts before I tackle this. So looking forward to getting this replaced, I simply cannot take it any more.
      I ordered mine thru ECS tuning but they sell them at pepboys and other local auto stores. They may be hard to find depending on your area. Snap-On sells them too so you could always find your local rep and meet him somewhere. That route will cost $$ though.
      '09 GTI TSI 11.53@121.18
      '12 TT-RS TBD!

    14. Member ViRtUaLheretic's Avatar
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      07-11-2011 11:28 AM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by steelcurtain View Post
      I ordered mine thru ECS tuning but they sell them at pepboys and other local auto stores. They may be hard to find depending on your area.
      I have SCOURED EVERY local automotive store as well as home depot, lowes, sears, etc.. and NOBODY that I am aware of sells triple squares at a retail store.
      You have to order them from amazon, ecs tuning, ebay, or metalnerd.
      :APR -stage 2 :BSH -Intake,Mounts,RSB,TB Pipe :Whiteline -A.L.K. :Porsche 17Z BBK
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      07-11-2011 01:41 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by ViRtUaLheretic View Post
      I have SCOURED EVERY local automotive store as well as home depot, lowes, sears, etc.. and NOBODY that I am aware of sells triple squares at a retail store.
      You have to order them from amazon, ecs tuning, ebay, or metalnerd.
      Yea my pepboys just started to carry them.
      '09 GTI TSI 11.53@121.18
      '12 TT-RS TBD!

    16. Member ViRtUaLheretic's Avatar
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      07-11-2011 07:15 PM #16
      I'll have to call up my pepboys and see if they have them.
      I need a set of stubby tripple squares.
      :APR -stage 2 :BSH -Intake,Mounts,RSB,TB Pipe :Whiteline -A.L.K. :Porsche 17Z BBK
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      07-11-2011 11:09 PM #17
      Good write up, but those valves didn't look that bad. I work for a dealer and seen some real bad ones even on the newer 3.6s. There are a lot of sprays that different companies are coming out with but i have yet to see a chemical clean better than CLR. Make sure the valves are closed, poor it in, let it sit, wire brush it, blow it out and they are shiny clean.

      Almost every vw tech has a set of these exact ones:
      http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VIM-8...motiveQ5fTools

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      07-12-2011 09:37 AM #18
      CLR as in the acid advertised on TV?

    19. Member ViRtUaLheretic's Avatar
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      07-12-2011 12:03 PM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by BoBa524 View Post
      Almost every vw tech has a set of these exact ones:
      http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VIM-8...motiveQ5fTools
      Perfect, Thanks!
      :APR -stage 2 :BSH -Intake,Mounts,RSB,TB Pipe :Whiteline -A.L.K. :Porsche 17Z BBK
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      :Eurojet -Ceramic Coated TBE :DEFI :Unibrace :Tyrolsport :Bildon :Hawk :034
      TSI FAQ: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4042736

    20. Member onevrsix's Avatar
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      07-13-2011 11:22 AM #20
      Question, are you sure its an M10 triple square and not 8? I have an 8 that fits all the other triple square attachments under the hood (heat shield, engine lift/jack brackets on top of the engine) I was able to get my hands on an 8 but no dice with a 10. also, did you replace the fuel injector seal kits when you pulled the mani? I'm trying to determine if its needed, if not I can do this tonight and be done with it. if it is, I'll have to wait till the weekend cause I won't be able to get to a dealership until then.

      Thanks,

    21. Member ViRtUaLheretic's Avatar
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      07-13-2011 03:06 PM #21
      You only have to replace teh injector gaskets if an injector pops out when you pull the manifold.
      I ordered 4 just in case...
      :APR -stage 2 :BSH -Intake,Mounts,RSB,TB Pipe :Whiteline -A.L.K. :Porsche 17Z BBK
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      07-13-2011 03:08 PM #22
      Quote Originally Posted by onevrsix View Post
      Question, are you sure its an M10 triple square and not 8? I have an 8 that fits all the other triple square attachments under the hood (heat shield, engine lift/jack brackets on top of the engine) I was able to get my hands on an 8 but no dice with a 10. also, did you replace the fuel injector seal kits when you pulled the mani? I'm trying to determine if its needed, if not I can do this tonight and be done with it. if it is, I'll have to wait till the weekend cause I won't be able to get to a dealership until then.

      Thanks,
      Yes, it's a 10. I wouldn't replace the seals unless you see damage. I had damage on two of mine but they stayed in their bore when I pulled the mani. If they're damaged now, it's just a matter of time before they go bad so might as well knock it out now. I replaced all of my seals. 2 were cracking and 1 was gone.
      '09 GTI TSI 11.53@121.18
      '12 TT-RS TBD!

    23. Member onevrsix's Avatar
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      07-13-2011 04:01 PM #23
      Quote Originally Posted by ViRtUaLheretic View Post
      You only have to replace teh injector gaskets if an injector pops out when you pull the manifold.
      I ordered 4 just in case...
      Are the injectors attached to the bottom of the manifold?
      Quote Originally Posted by steelcurtain View Post
      Yes, it's a 10. I wouldn't replace the seals unless you see damage. I had damage on two of mine but they stayed in their bore when I pulled the mani. If they're damaged now, it's just a matter of time before they go bad so might as well knock it out now. I replaced all of my seals. 2 were cracking and 1 was gone.
      so only if there is damage. got it. fortunately I'll be doing the job at my mom's house and shes walking dist. from the dealership. if they're damaged I'll simply acquire as needed. hopefully none of them pop out.
      Mani should get here today, have the gasket, just need the G'damn 10 trip. square still can't find it

    24. Member 24vEngineer's Avatar
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      07-13-2011 05:16 PM #24
      Thanks for the DIY. Removed the manifold and cleaned the ports and valves. Went back together with no problems.


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      07-13-2011 06:22 PM #25
      Quote Originally Posted by 24vEngineer View Post
      Thanks for the DIY. Removed the manifold and cleaned the ports and valves. Went back together with no problems.

      That's awesome! I think you're the first to respond to actually performing the DIY on all of the forums I have posted on. Glad to hear it went well and thanks for letting me know.

      How did the GM cleaner work for you?

      -patrick
      '09 GTI TSI 11.53@121.18
      '12 TT-RS TBD!

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      07-13-2011 06:26 PM #26
      Quote Originally Posted by onevrsix View Post
      Are the injectors attached to the bottom of the manifold?

      have the gasket
      You probably won't even need it if you leave the original in the mani. Good to have as a spare for the job though.
      '09 GTI TSI 11.53@121.18
      '12 TT-RS TBD!

    27. Member 24vEngineer's Avatar
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      07-13-2011 06:49 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by steelcurtain View Post
      That's awesome! I think you're the first to respond to actually performing the DIY on all of the forums I have posted on. Glad to hear it went well and thanks for letting me know.

      How did the GM cleaner work for you?

      -patrick

      Used the Gunk heavy duty gel engine cleaner. It worked fine. Scrapped a ton of Shyte off of the splitters in the intake ports. It didn't come out as bright and shinny as yours did, but I probably didn't spend as much time. Finished it off with carburetor cleaner and a good vacuuming.

      Didn't even need a new gasket for the intake manifold. Old one worked fine.

    28. Member onevrsix's Avatar
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      07-13-2011 08:02 PM #28
      Quote Originally Posted by steelcurtain View Post
      You probably won't even need it if you leave the original in the mani. Good to have as a spare for the job though.
      I'm actually replacing my manifold, turns out it comes with a gasket so I hope the dealer will take it back. I wanna tackle this tomorrow but that damn M10 is holding me up. In step 23 you also mentioned an m6? Are thee two different sized triple squares?

      Sent from my Galaxy S using Tapatalk

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      07-13-2011 09:00 PM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by onevrsix View Post
      I'm actually replacing my manifold, turns out it comes with a gasket so I hope the dealer will take it back. I wanna tackle this tomorrow but that damn M10 is holding me up. In step 23 you also mentioned an m6? Are thee two different sized triple squares?

      Sent from my Galaxy S using Tapatalk
      12 points can be a pain like that. Call your local tool delivery trucks like Snap-on, Cromwell, etc. They are hard to find but these guys will have them. They're whoes. It's all about selling tools so they'll sell to you out of the truck. It'll just cost $$ but you might be able to just get a single 10 instead of buying a set. Plus it'll be a quality tool. Or make friends with the mechanics and borrow their ****. That's what I had to do for a M14 for the rear brakes!

      Sorry, the M6 is the size of the bolt. It's a standard bolt For VW's. You'll need a small ??mm 3/8" socket with at least a 6" extension. (sorry forgot the actual size). You'll be going underneath runners with the wrench/extension to the 2 m6 bolts that are underneath the manifold runners. These bolts hold the bottom of the mani to the head. It's a narrow gap between the runners so you need an adequate diameter extension.
      Last edited by steelcurtain; 07-13-2011 at 09:10 PM.
      '09 GTI TSI 11.53@121.18
      '12 TT-RS TBD!

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      07-13-2011 09:15 PM #30
      BTW - if I had a new mani then I would use the new gasket. IMO, it will seal better than a used gasket since it doesn't have the "form" of the old mani. I could be wrong but I would still use the new one! Haha
      '09 GTI TSI 11.53@121.18
      '12 TT-RS TBD!

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      07-13-2011 09:17 PM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by 24vEngineer View Post
      Used the Gunk heavy duty gel engine cleaner. It worked fine. Scrapped a ton of Shyte off of the splitters in the intake ports. It didn't come out as bright and shinny as yours did, but I probably didn't spend as much time. Finished it off with carburetor cleaner and a good vacuuming.

      Didn't even need a new gasket for the intake manifold. Old one worked fine.
      Cool man. Thanks for letting me know how it went.
      '09 GTI TSI 11.53@121.18
      '12 TT-RS TBD!

    32. Member EngTech1's Avatar
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      07-13-2011 11:11 PM #32
      Seems Like a Good Fuel Cleaner would have done as good , and really looking at the Pic's

      Hope You Stuffed three layer of Cotton and Rags in there before the Wire Wheel on the end of a Drill , can see the Marks . Just to - Keep out the Debris !

      Done Plenty of Port and Polishing - those are small wire wheel marks - all day long !



      I have done this Method and Cheated to do a Slight Port on Bowl , then Vac , then Air.
      Last edited by EngTech1; 07-13-2011 at 11:15 PM.
      I'll do My Best to Help You: ** Fall Sale is On ! ** -


    33. Member onevrsix's Avatar
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      May 27th, 2010
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      2009 GLI, 2008 yzf-R1, 01 yzf-600r
      07-13-2011 11:52 PM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by steelcurtain View Post
      BTW - if I had a new mani then I would use the new gasket. IMO, it will seal better than a used gasket since it doesn't have the "form" of the old mani. I could be wrong but I would still use the new one! Haha
      Cool; yeah I bought one from the dealership and the manifold came with a new throttle body gasket and mani gasket as well. So now I have two. looking forward to tackling this tomorrow afternoon. so long as I can find that trip square. think I'm going to try and borrow it from a local

    34. Member
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      2012 Audi TT-RS
      07-14-2011 09:28 AM #34
      Quote Originally Posted by EngTech1 View Post
      Seems Like a Good Fuel Cleaner would have done as good , and really looking at the Pic's

      Hope You Stuffed three layer of Cotton and Rags in there before the Wire Wheel on the end of a Drill , can see the Marks . Just to - Keep out the Debris !

      Done Plenty of Port and Polishing - those are small wire wheel marks - all day long !



      I have done this Method and Cheated to do a Slight Port on Bowl , then Vac , then Air.
      No wire wheel on drill was used. I used wire handheld bottle brushes. That was listed in the DIY.
      '09 GTI TSI 11.53@121.18
      '12 TT-RS TBD!

    35. Member onevrsix's Avatar
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      07-14-2011 11:35 PM #35
      I don't know how you guys did it. All but the two triple squares and the rear left intake mani bolts are taken off. there simply isn't enough clearance for me to get any tool in there to take the rear left TB bolt off. It's driving me crazy I was at the local hardware store buying smaller flex socket wrenches, mini ratchets, and nothing. not to mention I can't see the trip squares yet. the GLI noise pipe is causing/had caused a lot of problems. there is a bracket that supports it that comes off the alternator that blocks the hard pipe from moving, I removed that bracket (by undoing both alternator bolts) and have a little more room to play but that was about 45 mins ago and the lack of light had me calling it quits. very frustrating.
      I'm going to pick up tomorrow after work. everything else came out with ease, and when I can actually see/get to the triple squares I'll tackle them now that I have the right tool.


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