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    Thread: 24v Quest for 550+HP experianced oppinions welcomed!

    1. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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      07-10-2011 10:13 PM #26
      Kinda Off topic, but its my thread so im allowed haha i got a lil bored and took some pics of my sexy bitch to show off a lil

      Heres a decent shot


      Kinda like this one a lil better though


      Sexy HID's


      Jetta center console is pretty much the only interior upgrade


      Coil overs


      20mm rear wheel spacers


      Drilled "BIG" rotors (all around)


      And of course the 24v in the flesh!!!!(lightweight pulleys, cold air, TT Borla muffler, Miltek down pipe and highflow cat-back, cold air intake, and this winter C2 STAGE 3 TURBO KIT BABY!!!!)
      ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

    2. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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      07-10-2011 10:16 PM #27
      Oh ya forge short throw shifter to BTW, and i want to randomly add a picture of my bike with the sexy GTI, ive put alot of love into the bike to, bought it brand new stock, i think she's a sexy beast now
      ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

    3. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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      07-10-2011 10:20 PM #28
      If Anyone knows of a way to fix these curb marks somehow let me know, i love these rims, just this one rim got curb checked, by a damn x-girlfriend stupid ***** lol
      ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

    4. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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      07-12-2011 10:45 AM #29
      Here's the Turbo wootwoot!!!!! Precision 6262 Ball bearing 680HP capible beast master!

      ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

    5. Forum Sponsor INA's Avatar
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      07-15-2011 08:53 AM #30
      Quote Originally Posted by Lieutenant Dan View Post
      Out of all the things you have listed engine-wise the only thing that's really necessary to make 500-550 are the pistons and rods. As well as the associated ARP hardware one would use with assembly to make sure all that money doesn't go to waste.
      Not Even. The stock VR rods are so robust that a simple ARP bolt installation + a line bore is more than enough.
      I only recommend going pistons & rods IF you need to really build your motor OR dont like the idea of a compression dropping gasket.
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    6. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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      07-15-2011 09:30 AM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by INA View Post
      Not Even. The stock VR rods are so robust that a simple ARP bolt installation + a line bore is more than enough.
      I only recommend going pistons & rods IF you need to really build your motor OR dont like the idea of a compression dropping gasket.
      Id say the main reasons i want them is to have a fresh "brandnew" shortblock for the build, seems like it will last alot longer if i go that route and the idea of a low compression gasket just seems like just a cheap way to go and one that wont last, just my oppinion though
      ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

    7. Member One Gray GLI's Avatar
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      07-15-2011 09:14 PM #32
      hmm..now let me ask you this question..why do you want to make 550+hp so badly? what are your intentions with it? anything more than 400whp is quite pointless on a FWD car on the street.

      I've been making 450+whp reliably on a stock motor (hg spacer, ARP head studs, no upgraded rod bolts) for quite some time now.

      with these cars, it's all about installation. if you wanna pinch pennies and not do it right the first time, this is the wrong platform to mod. (sorry if that sounds kinda dick, but I've been here long enough to see all the "oh I wanna turbo my car for cheap" threads.)

      it WILL cost money, most likely more than you planned, to do it correctly. I'll elaborate more when I have the chance or once you reply to why 550whp+ is your goal.
      The internet is serious business.

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      07-16-2011 01:24 AM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by One Gray GLI View Post
      hmm..now let me ask you this question..why do you want to make 550+hp so badly? what are your intentions with it? anything more than 400whp is quite pointless on a FWD car on the street.

      it WILL cost money, most likely more than you planned, to do it correctly. I'll elaborate more when I have the chance or once you reply to why 550whp+ is your goal.
      Can i answer that with a "because its AWD"

    9. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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      07-16-2011 12:17 PM #34
      Quote Originally Posted by One Gray GLI View Post
      hmm..now let me ask you this question..why do you want to make 550+hp so badly? what are your intentions with it? anything more than 400whp is quite pointless on a FWD car on the street.

      I've been making 450+whp reliably on a stock motor (hg spacer, ARP head studs, no upgraded rod bolts) for quite some time now.

      with these cars, it's all about installation. if you wanna pinch pennies and not do it right the first time, this is the wrong platform to mod. (sorry if that sounds kinda dick, but I've been here long enough to see all the "oh I wanna turbo my car for cheap" threads.)

      it WILL cost money, most likely more than you planned, to do it correctly. I'll elaborate more when I have the chance or once you reply to why 550whp+ is your goal.
      im not sure if you were referring to me? or someone elses post on this thread....but im def by no means doing it the "cheap" way, this is not a "oh I wanna turbo my car for cheap" thread, i mean go ahead a price out this project according to what ive posted so far its somwhere around $$,$$$dollars haha the whole reason i started this thread is so i can get experianced oppinions(as the title states) so i do it right the first time and as for the 550whp goal yes i understand its FWD and so what? i just wanna have an Elite VR6 their is no real reason when it comes to a "racing" stand point, im not trying to be a quick red light to red light car, cause clearly it wont be, i guess you could say i enjoy going fast on the highway??? lol but no i guess ive just allways loved this car and its badass motor design you could say its my "affordable dream car" haha and i would just love to squeez every bit of HP out of it that i possibly can just for 24v bragging rights haha i guess thats the reason for my goal man.....does this answer your question?
      ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

    10. Member Snitches Get Stitches's Avatar
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      07-16-2011 10:02 PM #35
      There is a couple different ways to look at building a VR Turbo. A complete blueprinted and balanced motor is not necessary for your power goals. 500-50whp has been easily attained and daily driven, as shown by posters in your thread. If you choose to build the motor for some cool-factor, that is a ton of money wasted, and better spent elsewhere. If you truly want to spend the money and have no nightmares or worries, I suggest choosing a very competent machine shop and having your crank knife-edged, and your entire rotating assembly balanced. You can always look for a bump in displacement, as I and many others have chosen 2.9L or 3L set-ups, with 82mm to 83.5mm bores. It is all about your goals and what helps you sleep at night. I have sunk a fair chunk of change into my motor, but originally I was simply going to run a spacer and be done with it. Look where that got me...the build on the motor added a year to my journey, and several extra trips to the machine shop for a micro-polishing on my crank to achieve the clearances I needed on my main bearings. Just know what you are getting yourself into, and make sure it is for the right reasons. The other big piece to keep in mind is if you go boom with a stock block, you lose alot less than going boom on a fuilly built monster. I just know that if i experience catastrophic failure on this block, there is no way in hell i would be sinking the same amount of time, energy, and money on another fully built money pit.
      Last edited by Snitches Get Stitches; 07-17-2011 at 01:53 AM.

    11. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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      07-17-2011 04:38 AM #36
      Quote Originally Posted by Snitches Get Stitches View Post
      There is a couple different ways to look at building a VR Turbo. A complete blueprinted and balanced motor is not necessary for your power goals. 500-50whp has been easily attained and daily driven, as shown by posters in your thread. If you choose to build the motor for some cool-factor, that is a ton of money wasted, and better spent elsewhere. If you truly want to spend the money and have no nightmares or worries, I suggest choosing a very competent machine shop and having your crank knife-edged, and your entire rotating assembly balanced. You can always look for a bump in displacement, as I and many others have chosen 2.9L or 3L set-ups, with 82mm to 83.5mm bores. It is all about your goals and what helps you sleep at night. I have sunk a fair chunk of change into my motor, but originally I was simply going to run a spacer and be done with it. Look where that got me...the build on the motor added a year to my journey, and several extra trips to the machine shop for a micro-polishing on my crank to achieve the clearances I needed on my main bearings. Just know what you are getting yourself into, and make sure it is for the right reasons. The other big piece to keep in mind is if you go boom with a stock block, you lose alot less than going boom on a fuilly built monster. I just know that if i experience catastrophic failure on this block, there is no way in hell i would be sinking the same amount of time, energy, and money on another fully built money pit.
      Thanks for the in-put "snithces" i really do appreciate it but just for the record im not spending 10,000+$ just for "cool points" trust me im not rich lol i just simply love VW i always have and finally got my hands on a 24v GTI which is a very BA motor, atleast to me and i want to build it up. Yes i know its not gonna be the fastest car EVER, yes its FWD (who caaaaaares), yes its gonna cost alot......for me! not for you lol so can everyone just accept my passion for VW and the VR6 24v GTI and give me some useful input please, btw thank you everyone that has already
      ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

    12. Member Snitches Get Stitches's Avatar
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      07-18-2011 12:38 PM #37
      Ok...i can understand your desires are not for the "cool factor", but your going to spend a ton of cash for those bragging rights or epic VR6 status.(same thing as "cool factor" in my eyes)
      Will you be assembling the motor yourself? Ever blueprint a motor before? Do you own the tools neccessary for the job?
      For a decent machine shop to line bore, bore your cylinders, hone, etc. with you doing the assembly yourself you will still spend $1200-1500 just on the simple stuff. For them to assemble your short block for you, add $2k to your final price. Thats not counting work needed on the head. Everything for the 24valves is expensive in comparison to 12v or 1.8T parts. I think for what it will cost you and the extra hassle, stick with just a spacer on a stock block. These motors are still "Epic" with a spacer and boost....you will still be very happy and impressed with how it turns out.

    13. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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      07-18-2011 03:55 PM #38
      i do realize the amount of time and money that is going to be involved ive been researching this project idea for some time now, i have a good machine shop (freind of mine) to do the machine work for much cheaper than you "quoted" im doing all the work myself with some freinds(all of which are no strangers to heavy engine work) besides the short block reasembly and obviously the machine work. if you think im just trying to be "cool" than thats your oppinion, but im 24years young haha and i think im past the teenage ****, it purely sm that ive always wanted to do, to be honest im not sure why your so concerned with the monetary part of this, its gonna be my money that im spending i realize it will cost somwhere between 10,000-15,000 but thats my problem. soooooooooooo back to why this thread has been started, for tips, pros, cons(besides cost) hidden problem factors anything anyone would like to let me and anyone elsewhos veiws this thread know about this project (BESIDES COST ISSUES) I KNOW ITS EXPENSIVE , there now that has been settled haha, btw snitches, i do appreciate your concern, thanks.
      ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

    14. Member One Gray GLI's Avatar
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      07-18-2011 04:06 PM #39
      pros:
      fun highway car.
      sleeper status.
      sounds amazing.
      something not many people have.
      reliable if put together correctly
      stock drivability (good power under boost still, even with lower compression)

      cons:
      ****ty platform, bad aftermarket support
      money (sorry. lol)
      traction issues
      the thought you could have built something else more fun for cheaper.
      VR6s are terrible to work on until you familiarize yourself with everything over time.

      the negatives outweigh the positive. Trust me, I was in your shoes before. But you've got your heart set out on it, so just research, read build threads from the past, and try not to make mistakes that people have in the past
      The internet is serious business.

    15. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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      07-18-2011 04:17 PM #40
      Quote Originally Posted by One Gray GLI View Post
      pros:
      fun highway car.
      sleeper status.
      sounds amazing.
      something not many people have.
      reliable if put together correctly
      stock drivability (good power under boost still, even with lower compression)

      cons:
      ****ty platform, bad aftermarket support
      money (sorry. lol)
      traction issues
      the thought you could have built something else more fun for cheaper.
      VR6s are terrible to work on until you familiarize yourself with everything over time.

      the negatives outweigh the positive. Trust me, I was in your shoes before. But you've got your heart set out on it, so just research, read build threads from the past, and try not to make mistakes that people have in the past
      hahaha thanks man, and DAMN again with the money lol JK! oh just curious in your oppinion when you say sm more fun....you mean like RWD or AWD platform? if so i do agree with you, but FWD is what i have and i only paid 5k for it with 70,000miles on it. so spending all the extra money on sm else with a different drive system plus the turbo set-up just isnt feasible
      ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

    16. Member One Gray GLI's Avatar
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      07-18-2011 08:01 PM #41
      haha, I mean..I'm just giving you the other side of the arguement. I love driving my car, it still puts a smile on my face..but realistically? I would have rather spent the money I spent on my mk4 on my STI... maybe a nice rotated kit for it.
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      07-18-2011 11:24 PM #42
      Quote Originally Posted by One Gray GLI View Post
      haha, I mean..I'm just giving you the other side of the arguement. I love driving my car, it still puts a smile on my face..but realistically? I would have rather spent the money I spent on my mk4 on my STI... maybe a nice rotated kit for it.
      That's all subjective man. I'd rather have a built 24v with a 3.2 head and high revving valvetrain even in a fwd golf than spend money on an STI.

      Variety is the spice of life

    18. Member One Gray GLI's Avatar
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      07-19-2011 06:05 AM #43
      well, good luck finding a trans/gear set that's strong enough to handle the torque over time, unless you plan on buying the o2m dogboxes that Ed has now. And that'll run you almost as much as your turbo kit alone. lol the fwd o2m gearbox won't take much more 550wtq when you actually have traction. It doesn't break as easily on a fwd platform because the tires just spin. -_-

      This is why I'm saying, there's a reason everyone aims for 500whp on a 24v. It's a safe point where tons of crap doesn't break. Single walbro/Bosch 044 is still enough for that power goal, trans/axles, bottom end.. everything.

      Whatever though, as I said, I do enjoy my car, I've just thought of everything i could that's negative. If I came here and said "omg 24vs are the greatest, gl" then I wouldn't be helping
      The internet is serious business.

    19. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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      07-19-2011 09:55 AM #44
      "omg 24vs are the greatest, gl" then I wouldn't be helping [/QUOTE]

      and you are right i wouldnt want everyone to come on here and tell me that all my ideas are 100% spot on and that, the 24v is bullet proof and the ****! , you need that contructive critizism to keep your head straight so thanks again "one gray GLI" on the other hand i think your not giving the stock O2M tranny the credit she deserves, a buddy of mine has pushed 547wtq and 568whp and that lil beast is still kickin, grant it he dosnt daily drive with the kind've boost to make that power but never the less it holds up just fine, just sayin
      Last edited by joeeveryman87; 07-19-2011 at 10:07 AM.
      ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

    20. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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      07-19-2011 10:03 AM #45
      Quote Originally Posted by Lieutenant Dan View Post
      That's all subjective man. I'd rather have a built 24v with a 3.2 head and high revving valvetrain even in a fwd golf than spend money on an STI.

      Variety is the spice of life
      and i agree with you buddy, i'd much rather have a built 24vT with a 3.2 head even if it is FWD, than and STI or an Evo that everyone and there mom has, no offense to you STI or EVO guys there nice cars but to many people have them, i want sm a lil more rare even if it does cost me a few extra dollhairs
      ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

    21. Member One Gray GLI's Avatar
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      07-19-2011 02:53 PM #46
      Sure, you can make power with the stock gears for a while but I'm sure your friend doesn't drive every day at that power level. you'll shear the teeth on 4th gear after a while, especially doing long pulls. My friend Dave with a turbo r32 with a t67 made over 600awhp/wtq and drove it around that power level often, really drives the car hard, and sheared 4th gear on stock gearbox, got a gearbox from Europe (DRP I believe, IIRC), broke that one the same way, and now he's on his 3rd gearbox. AND those are stronger than the fwd o2m's.
      The internet is serious business.

    22. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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      07-19-2011 03:24 PM #47
      Quote Originally Posted by One Gray GLI View Post
      Sure, you can make power with the stock gears for a while but I'm sure your friend doesn't drive every day at that power level. you'll shear the teeth on 4th gear after a while, especially doing long pulls. My friend Dave with a turbo r32 with a t67 made over 600awhp/wtq and drove it around that power level often, really drives the car hard, and sheared 4th gear on stock gearbox, got a gearbox from Europe (DRP I believe, IIRC), broke that one the same way, and now he's on his 3rd gearbox. AND those are stronger than the fwd o2m's.
      I hear where your comin from man, im curious, since we're on the transmission topic what do you know about the wavetrac LSD, any words of wisdom on the diff?
      ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

    23. Member One Gray GLI's Avatar
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      07-19-2011 04:24 PM #48
      not sure, I have a peloquin myself with much success so far, and a clutchmasters FX400 which I love, but I know many use the wavetrac's as well, as far as differentials go.
      The internet is serious business.

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      07-20-2011 02:57 AM #49
      Hello Boys, just read the topic.....from Australia

      The R32 head is the best option to the 2.8 head
      Ive just invested in the R32 head from 034motorsport from there Audi A4 racecar with 264/260 cams double valve springs
      and titanium retainers..
      Theres not much achievement in the porting of the head for the money anyway
      I can tell u the head will take 900hps as proven by 034motorsport,(no porting)just something to think about..

    25. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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      07-20-2011 09:55 AM #50
      so i keep hearing about the R32 head, and i want one for my build. sooooo can everyone help me in get my hands on one? and does it just bolt on? or do i need a new fuel rail? new VVT gears?
      ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

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