Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    VWVortex


    Results 1 to 22 of 22

    Thread: FAQ: 1.8t Torque Spec List

    1. Member Sinner44's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 11th, 2006
      Location
      Reno, NV
      Posts
      1,732
      Vehicles
      2003 1.8T GTI, 1.8 16VT GTI Project
      07-12-2011 06:23 PM #1
      If a Mod could please add this this the DIY/FAQ info that would be great...

      ORIGINALLY POSTED BY Richard_Cranium on Fortitude:


      i see these being needed at least 5 times a week here. and even though most of the forum hates me for being me and wanting this place to stay engine related only, here they are AGAIN.

      someone should sticky this or put in in the FAQ.

      DISCLAIMER: no children were put in harms way while making this thread.



      Originally Posted by speeding-g60 aka Richard_Cranium

      ahhh, hell i will put it here as others may like to know these things.

      i took my ARP/FW bolts to like 95 ft/lb. this was done in part due to the research Andy (hypothetical) did in measuring stretch, fatigue, etc. this was observed by BobQ IIRC. and i do believe it was given the thumbs up. search poortex for this info in the archives for author hypothetical.

      water pump = 11 lb
      oil pump = 12 lb
      front main seal cover into block = 11 lb
      front main seal into seal housing thru oil pan = 11 lb
      oil pan = 11 lb
      oil pump pickup tube = 12 lb
      big oil pan bolt = 30 lb
      oil pump drive gear bolt = 16 lb
      oil pump chain tensioner = 12 lb
      oil filter housing = 11 lb + 1/4 turn

      cam caps = 7 lb
      cam tensioner = 7 lb
      cam position wheel = 18 lb
      cam position sensor = 7 lb
      cam gear = 48 lb

      serpentine belt tensioner = 18 lb
      shouldered bolt on large roller = 20 lb
      hydro tensioner body = 11 lb
      small idle roller = 15 lb
      guard bolts = 7 lb with loc-tite (blue is removable)
      power steering pump pulley = 18 lb
      balancer = 22 lb

      intake manifold = 7.5 lb
      fuel rail = 7.5 lb

      exhaust manifold = 21 lb
      valve cover = 7.5 lb
      coolant housing = 7 lb

      Fluidampr/factory balancer = 7 lb + 1/4 turn
      crank gear = 67 lb + 1/4 turn
      alt bracket = 38 lb
      water pump pulley = 17 lb

      and as for the ARP rod bolts, this is for all the torque values on the ARP rod bolts. i know this is a SCAT link, but the rod bolts (2000 series) are the same. and you just have to know what size bolt you have and you will know your torque.

      http://www.scatcrankshafts.com...s.pdf

    2. Moderator groggory's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 21st, 2003
      Location
      Long Beach, CA
      Posts
      11,828
      Vehicles
      2002 VW GTI 1.8 BT
      08-08-2011 03:53 PM #2
      Manual Timing Belt Tensioner Conversion:

      Timing belt should be tensioned such that the longest part of the belt can be turned 90 degrees. If it's whining like a supercharger, it's too tight. Belt tracking too far in is usually a bent / dented roller from an overtorqued nut

      The tensioner nut should be tensioned to 33 ft*lbs

      Note: If you have a tendency to overtorque you should use the IE manual timing belt tensioner backing plate to prevent your roller from bending.

      IE Manual Timing Belt Instructions

      Last edited by groggory; 10-19-2012 at 04:40 PM.
      My Build
      My FAQ / DIY Thread -- Look here for 90% of the questions you have

      Welcome to the world of racing! Budgets are ALWAYS exceeded, deadlines are never meet, end-goals never reached, and wives always unhappy... it's all worth it though!

    3. Moderator groggory's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 21st, 2003
      Location
      Long Beach, CA
      Posts
      11,828
      Vehicles
      2002 VW GTI 1.8 BT
      08-22-2011 02:56 PM #3
      turbo to downpipe studs: 30 ft-lb

      Dog Bone:

      According to the autotech instructions -

      18 ft-lb on the bolt holding the whole thing together
      15 ft-lb + 1/4 turn on the bolts holding hte mount to the subframe
      30 ft-lb + 1/4 turn on the bolts holding the mount to the transmission (both of them)

      Note: I haven't looked in the bentley, but VF's site does not mention the 1/4 turn...but Autotech does. Is it 1/4 turn or not?
      Last edited by groggory; 12-27-2011 at 08:45 PM.
      My Build
      My FAQ / DIY Thread -- Look here for 90% of the questions you have

      Welcome to the world of racing! Budgets are ALWAYS exceeded, deadlines are never meet, end-goals never reached, and wives always unhappy... it's all worth it though!

    4. Moderator groggory's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 21st, 2003
      Location
      Long Beach, CA
      Posts
      11,828
      Vehicles
      2002 VW GTI 1.8 BT
      09-15-2011 10:09 AM #4

      My Build
      My FAQ / DIY Thread -- Look here for 90% of the questions you have

      Welcome to the world of racing! Budgets are ALWAYS exceeded, deadlines are never meet, end-goals never reached, and wives always unhappy... it's all worth it though!

    5. Moderator groggory's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 21st, 2003
      Location
      Long Beach, CA
      Posts
      11,828
      Vehicles
      2002 VW GTI 1.8 BT
      12-23-2011 04:18 PM #5
      Does anyone know the torque spec for the OEM turbo -> downpipe nuts?
      My Build
      My FAQ / DIY Thread -- Look here for 90% of the questions you have

      Welcome to the world of racing! Budgets are ALWAYS exceeded, deadlines are never meet, end-goals never reached, and wives always unhappy... it's all worth it though!

    6. Banned
      Join Date
      Apr 20th, 2011
      Location
      not in the 1.8T Engine forum anymore
      Posts
      507
      Vehicles
      quick, quicker, and quickest.
      12-23-2011 06:08 PM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by groggory View Post
      Does anyone know the torque spec for the OEM turbo -> downpipe nuts?
      oil line to turbo = 7lb
      turbo bracket to turbo (nut and bolt) = 30lb
      turbo bracket to block = 33lb
      oil feed line to turbo = 18lb
      coolant supply pipe bracket to turbo = 7lb
      oil supply line bracket to head = 15lb
      coolant supply line to turbo = 18lb
      crankcase vent line to head = 7lb
      coolant return line to turbo = 22lb
      turbo to manifold = 26lb
      cat/downpipe to turbo = 22lb

    7. Member FTMFW's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 1st, 2008
      Location
      Lake Forest Park / Oak Harbor
      Posts
      6,900
      Vehicles
      Black whistle-sneeze noise maker, '81 Caddy diesel
      12-24-2011 07:12 AM #7
      Reading this scares the sh!t out of me because I have reused and improperly torqued bolts ALL OVER my engine.

    8. Moderator groggory's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 21st, 2003
      Location
      Long Beach, CA
      Posts
      11,828
      Vehicles
      2002 VW GTI 1.8 BT
      12-24-2011 01:08 PM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by FTMFW View Post
      Reading this scares the sh!t out of me because I have reused and improperly torqued bolts ALL OVER my engine.
      Rightly so!

      Here's the centerpiece of my specialty tool drawer

      My Build
      My FAQ / DIY Thread -- Look here for 90% of the questions you have

      Welcome to the world of racing! Budgets are ALWAYS exceeded, deadlines are never meet, end-goals never reached, and wives always unhappy... it's all worth it though!

    9. Member FTMFW's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 1st, 2008
      Location
      Lake Forest Park / Oak Harbor
      Posts
      6,900
      Vehicles
      Black whistle-sneeze noise maker, '81 Caddy diesel
      12-24-2011 03:19 PM #9
      The day before my transmission swap I picked one up. It's been a slow "repair" process. Still need to replace a few bolts though.

    10. 01-18-2012 09:50 PM #10
      ARP Head STUD/Bolt spec: 3 equal steps leading to 80 ft lbs (26, 27, 27)

      ARP Main STUD spec: 3 equal steps leading to 60 ft/lbs (20,20,20), Torquing from the top nut main cap #3 in a down and outward spiral ending at the bottom nut of main cap #5

      To install ARP head studs you will need the tool that arp sells which is a male triple square socket, the kits are offered with this tool included for like $10

      threw the main stud spec in there for your thread grog since I just torqued mine yesterday, crank spins like butter =)

    11. Moderator groggory's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 21st, 2003
      Location
      Long Beach, CA
      Posts
      11,828
      Vehicles
      2002 VW GTI 1.8 BT
      07-13-2012 05:07 AM #11
      Quote Originally Posted by 18T_BT View Post




      1. Subframe retaining brackets (on body)
      2. Welded nut (in body)
      3. Rear bonded rubber bushing for subframe
      4. Nut, self=locking (always replace)
      5. Bolt (always replace, tighten to 100Nm or 74ft/lb + 1/4 turn or 90 degrees)
      6. Rear bonded rubber bushing for control arm (press in/out)
      7. Bolt (always replace, tighten to 70Nm or 52ft/lbs + 1/4 turn or 90 degrees)
      8. Nut plate
      9. Nut, self-locking (always replace, tighten to 45Nm or 33ft/lb)
      10. Ball joint
      11. Bolts (always replace, tighten to 20Nm or 15ft/lb +1/4 turn or 90 degrees
      12. Control arm
      13. Stabilizer connecting link
      14. Bolt (tighten to 45Nm or 33ft/lb)
      15. Stabilizer bar (subframe must be lowered to remove and install)
      17. Bolt
      18. Bolt (always replace, tighten to 100Nm or 74ft/lb +1/4 turn or 90 degrees
      19. Front bonded rubber busing for control arm
      20. Bolt (always replace, tighten to 70Nm or 52ft/lb +1/4 turn or 90 degrees
      21. Bolt (always replace, tighten to 50Nm or 37ft/lb +1/4 turn or 90 degrees
      22. Bolt (always replace, tighten to 50Nm or 37ft/lb +1/4 turn or 90 degrees
      23. Pendulum support
      24. Bolts (always replace, tighten to 25Nm or 18ft/lb +1/4 turn or 90 degrees
      25. Stabilizer bar bushing
      26. Stabilizer bar mounting bracket
      27. Bolt (tighten to 25Nm or 18ft/lb
      28. Subframe (if damaged, do not repair threads in sub-frame for front control arm bolt)
      ^^
      My Build
      My FAQ / DIY Thread -- Look here for 90% of the questions you have

      Welcome to the world of racing! Budgets are ALWAYS exceeded, deadlines are never meet, end-goals never reached, and wives always unhappy... it's all worth it though!

    12. 07-13-2012 09:37 AM #12
      hehe i see what you did there
      Unitronic830cc/Racetronix 846cc flowmatched injectors/HP6262SP-b/ TurboSmart Race Port/PrecisionPW39/TurboSmart MBC/Snow W/M Injection/IE Rods/AEB pistons/ARP Main cap studs/ARP headstuds/3" turboback/ FMIC/Custom fuel surge tank/ Wally 255/AEB head/supertech single keeper valves/ IECVA1 cams/IE valve springs and retainers/034 motor mounts. SPEC Stg 4 6 puck clutch, Vr6 lightweight flywheel. KRM intake manifold/80mm tb

    13. Moderator groggory's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 21st, 2003
      Location
      Long Beach, CA
      Posts
      11,828
      Vehicles
      2002 VW GTI 1.8 BT
      07-13-2012 01:38 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by Mindfault View Post
      hehe i see what you did there
      My Build
      My FAQ / DIY Thread -- Look here for 90% of the questions you have

      Welcome to the world of racing! Budgets are ALWAYS exceeded, deadlines are never meet, end-goals never reached, and wives always unhappy... it's all worth it though!

    14. Moderator groggory's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 21st, 2003
      Location
      Long Beach, CA
      Posts
      11,828
      Vehicles
      2002 VW GTI 1.8 BT
      08-27-2012 01:57 PM #14
      ...
      Last edited by groggory; 10-19-2012 at 04:40 PM.
      My Build
      My FAQ / DIY Thread -- Look here for 90% of the questions you have

      Welcome to the world of racing! Budgets are ALWAYS exceeded, deadlines are never meet, end-goals never reached, and wives always unhappy... it's all worth it though!

    15. Moderator groggory's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 21st, 2003
      Location
      Long Beach, CA
      Posts
      11,828
      Vehicles
      2002 VW GTI 1.8 BT
      10-19-2012 04:16 PM #15
      Needs torque for motor and transmission mounts

      ...

      BFI motor and trans mount, complete replacement

      Top Bolt - 40 ft * lbs
      Last edited by groggory; 10-19-2012 at 10:09 PM.
      My Build
      My FAQ / DIY Thread -- Look here for 90% of the questions you have

      Welcome to the world of racing! Budgets are ALWAYS exceeded, deadlines are never meet, end-goals never reached, and wives always unhappy... it's all worth it though!

    16. Member Shamrock's Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 6th, 2004
      Location
      Harrisburg, PA
      Posts
      3,687
      10-19-2012 04:40 PM #16
      Quote Originally Posted by groggory View Post

      yea looks pretty simple out of the engine bay...

    17. Moderator groggory's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 21st, 2003
      Location
      Long Beach, CA
      Posts
      11,828
      Vehicles
      2002 VW GTI 1.8 BT
      10-24-2012 04:05 PM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by Shamrock View Post
      yea looks pretty simple out of the engine bay...
      I thought changing the timing belt with this manual tensioner setup was super easy compared to the stock tensioner. I was able to slip the timing belt on the cam gear much easier, and the tensioning part was cake.

      The way I did it was this...

      Time the belt first of all.

      Use your tension tool to turn the tensioner enough so that then tensioner is holding the belt tight'ish. Use your fingers to finger tight the nut so the tensioner keeps the tension.

      Use a wrench to put ~12 ft*lbs on the nut.

      Use the tensioner tool to put proper tension (90 degree twist) on the belt.

      Use a torque wrench to bring the nut to 33 ft*lbs. Double check belt tension. Readjust if the belt has become too tight.

      Turn the engine over by hand and double check your timing. If you're timing is off a tooth then repeat the process and fix your timing.

      Reassemble.

      This timing belt job was the easiest I've ever done.

      Note: With my tensioner tool the edge of the nut was flat against the side of my tool. In other words, I can't turn the nut AND have the tensioner tool positioned at the same time. That is why my procedure has the two step process of snugging the nut, tensioning, then torquing the nut, then double checking tension.
      Last edited by groggory; 10-24-2012 at 04:07 PM.
      My Build
      My FAQ / DIY Thread -- Look here for 90% of the questions you have

      Welcome to the world of racing! Budgets are ALWAYS exceeded, deadlines are never meet, end-goals never reached, and wives always unhappy... it's all worth it though!

    18. Moderator groggory's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 21st, 2003
      Location
      Long Beach, CA
      Posts
      11,828
      Vehicles
      2002 VW GTI 1.8 BT
      12-11-2012 01:47 PM #18
      My Build
      My FAQ / DIY Thread -- Look here for 90% of the questions you have

      Welcome to the world of racing! Budgets are ALWAYS exceeded, deadlines are never meet, end-goals never reached, and wives always unhappy... it's all worth it though!

    19. Moderator groggory's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 21st, 2003
      Location
      Long Beach, CA
      Posts
      11,828
      Vehicles
      2002 VW GTI 1.8 BT
      01-23-2013 02:13 AM #19
      Water pump bolts - 15 Nm
      Thermostat housing bolts - 15 Nm
      Camshaft pulley bolt - 65 Nm
      Crank pulley bolts - 25 Nm
      Serpentine belt tensioner - 25 Nm
      Engine mount to block - 45 Nm
      Engine mount to body - 40 Nm + 90 degree
      Engine mount bracket - 25 Nm
      Engine mount to mount to block - 100 Nm
      Cylinder head bolts - 40 Nm each + 90 degree each + 90 degree each
      Camshaft bearing cap bolts - 10 Nm
      Exhaust manifold nuts - 25Nm
      Crankshaft main bearing bolts - 65 Nm each + 90 degree each
      Spark plug - 30 Nm

      Front axle nuts (follow step by step)
      Vehicles with 12-point nut
      200 Nm then loosen 1/2 turn
      Turn hub 180 degrees
      50 Nm + 60 degree

      Vehicles with hex bolt
      250 Nm + 90 degrees
      Loosen 1/2 turn.
      Turn hub 180 degrees
      250 Nm + 90 degrees

      Rear axle nuts (FWD)
      175 Nm

      FWD suspension
      Ball joint to control arm -20 Nm + 90 degrees
      Pendulum support to sub-frame - 25 Nm
      Forward bolt for control arm - 70 Nm + 90 degrees
      Rearward bolt for control arm - 52 ft. lbs. + 90 degrees
      Coupling rod to stabilizer bar Axle shaft to axle flange - 30 Nm

      1 nm equals .737561 ft/lbs
      My Build
      My FAQ / DIY Thread -- Look here for 90% of the questions you have

      Welcome to the world of racing! Budgets are ALWAYS exceeded, deadlines are never meet, end-goals never reached, and wives always unhappy... it's all worth it though!

    20. Moderator groggory's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 21st, 2003
      Location
      Long Beach, CA
      Posts
      11,828
      Vehicles
      2002 VW GTI 1.8 BT
      06-09-2014 01:57 PM #20
      Flywheel torque spec thread
      * also discusses race applications, Eurospec and ARP bolts, dowel pinning, etc
      My Build
      My FAQ / DIY Thread -- Look here for 90% of the questions you have

      Welcome to the world of racing! Budgets are ALWAYS exceeded, deadlines are never meet, end-goals never reached, and wives always unhappy... it's all worth it though!

    21. 06-10-2014 04:06 PM #21
      Anyone know tq for arp conrod bolts??

    22. Moderator groggory's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 21st, 2003
      Location
      Long Beach, CA
      Posts
      11,828
      Vehicles
      2002 VW GTI 1.8 BT
      06-10-2014 04:27 PM #22
      Quote Originally Posted by shaft6s9 View Post
      Anyone know tq for arp conrod bolts??
      For ARP 2000's do this. Use the supplied ARP lube.

      Torque to 45 ft lbs
      Torque to 50 ft lbs

      This will ensure the caps are seated correctly.

      No extra turns. The ARP bolts are not stretch like the OEM fasteners.

      From http://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/Infos/ARP+Rod+Bolts.htm

      IMPORTANT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
      1. Disassemble rods and thoroughly clean (including bolt and beam threads) to remove rust preventative.
      2. Apply ARP Molylube to the threads and under the head of each bolt.
      3. Install rods by bringing cap and beam into alignment. Tap into place before installing bolts (DO NOT USE BOLTS TO PULL
      CAPS INTO POSITION) Each rod is numbered and MUST be assembled with the same number on cap and beam.

      Code:
      Type	Size Inch	Max. Toque US	Size Metric	Max Torque Metric	Stretch
      ARP 2000	5/16" x 1.500"	26ft./lb.	7,9mm x 38,1mm	35,25Nm	0.0056"
      ARP 8740	3/8" x 1.600"	45f.t/lb.	9,5mm x 40,64mm	61,01Nm	0.0047"
      ARP 2000	3/8" x 1.600"	50ft./lb.	9,5mm x 40,64mm	67,79Nm	0.0058"
      ARP 8740
      Wave Loc Bolt & Nut	3/8"	50ft./lb.	9,5mm	67,79Nm	0.0063"
      ARP 8740	7/16" x 1.400"	64ft./lb.	11,1mm x 35,56mm	86,77Nm	0.0046"
      SCAT 2001	7/16" x 1.500"	63ft./lb.	11,1mm x 38,1mm	85,42Nm	
      ARP 8740	7/16" x 1.600"	63ft./lb.	11,1mm x 40,64mm	85,42Nm	0.005"
      ARP 2000	7/16" x 1.600"	70ft./lb.	11,1m x 40,64mm	94,91Nm	0.0062"
      ARP 8740	7/16" x 1.800"	63ft./lb.	11,1mm x 45,72mm	85,42Nm	0.006"
      SCAT 2000	7/16" x 1.800"	63ft./lb.	11,1mm x 45,72mm	85,42Nm
      Last edited by groggory; 06-10-2014 at 04:30 PM.
      My Build
      My FAQ / DIY Thread -- Look here for 90% of the questions you have

      Welcome to the world of racing! Budgets are ALWAYS exceeded, deadlines are never meet, end-goals never reached, and wives always unhappy... it's all worth it though!

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •