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Thread: FAQ: 1.8t Torque Spec List

  1. Member Sinner44's Avatar
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    07-12-2011 06:23 PM #1
    If a Mod could please add this this the DIY/FAQ info that would be great...

    ORIGINALLY POSTED BY Richard_Cranium on Fortitude:


    i see these being needed at least 5 times a week here. and even though most of the forum hates me for being me and wanting this place to stay engine related only, here they are AGAIN.

    someone should sticky this or put in in the FAQ.

    DISCLAIMER: no children were put in harms way while making this thread.



    Originally Posted by speeding-g60 aka Richard_Cranium

    ahhh, hell i will put it here as others may like to know these things.

    i took my ARP/FW bolts to like 95 ft/lb. this was done in part due to the research Andy (hypothetical) did in measuring stretch, fatigue, etc. this was observed by BobQ IIRC. and i do believe it was given the thumbs up. search poortex for this info in the archives for author hypothetical.

    water pump = 11 lb
    oil pump = 12 lb
    front main seal cover into block = 11 lb
    front main seal into seal housing thru oil pan = 11 lb
    oil pan = 11 lb
    oil pump pickup tube = 12 lb
    big oil pan bolt = 30 lb
    oil pump drive gear bolt = 16 lb
    oil pump chain tensioner = 12 lb
    oil filter housing = 11 lb + 1/4 turn

    cam caps = 7 lb
    cam tensioner = 7 lb
    cam position wheel = 18 lb
    cam position sensor = 7 lb
    cam gear = 48 lb

    serpentine belt tensioner = 18 lb
    shouldered bolt on large roller = 20 lb
    hydro tensioner body = 11 lb
    small idle roller = 15 lb
    guard bolts = 7 lb with loc-tite (blue is removable)
    power steering pump pulley = 18 lb
    balancer = 22 lb

    intake manifold = 7.5 lb
    fuel rail = 7.5 lb

    exhaust manifold = 21 lb
    valve cover = 7.5 lb
    coolant housing = 7 lb

    Fluidampr/factory balancer = 7 lb + 1/4 turn
    crank gear = 67 lb + 1/4 turn
    alt bracket = 38 lb
    water pump pulley = 17 lb

    and as for the ARP rod bolts, this is for all the torque values on the ARP rod bolts. i know this is a SCAT link, but the rod bolts (2000 series) are the same. and you just have to know what size bolt you have and you will know your torque.

    http://www.scatcrankshafts.com...s.pdf

  2. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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    08-08-2011 03:53 PM #2
    Manual Timing Belt Tensioner Conversion:

    Timing belt should be tensioned such that the longest part of the belt can be turned 90 degrees. If it's whining like a supercharger, it's too tight. Belt tracking too far in is usually a bent / dented roller from an overtorqued nut

    The tensioner nut should be tensioned to 33 ft*lbs

    Note: If you have a tendency to overtorque you should use the IE manual timing belt tensioner backing plate to prevent your roller from bending.

    IE Manual Timing Belt Instructions

    Last edited by groggory; 10-19-2012 at 04:40 PM.
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  3. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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    08-22-2011 02:56 PM #3
    turbo to downpipe studs: 30 ft-lb

    Dog Bone:

    According to the autotech instructions -

    18 ft-lb on the bolt holding the whole thing together
    15 ft-lb + 1/4 turn on the bolts holding hte mount to the subframe
    30 ft-lb + 1/4 turn on the bolts holding the mount to the transmission (both of them)

    Note: I haven't looked in the bentley, but VF's site does not mention the 1/4 turn...but Autotech does. Is it 1/4 turn or not?
    Last edited by groggory; 12-27-2011 at 08:45 PM.
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  4. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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    09-15-2011 10:09 AM #4

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  5. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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    12-23-2011 04:18 PM #5
    Does anyone know the torque spec for the OEM turbo -> downpipe nuts?
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    12-23-2011 06:08 PM #6
    Quote Originally Posted by groggory View Post
    Does anyone know the torque spec for the OEM turbo -> downpipe nuts?
    oil line to turbo = 7lb
    turbo bracket to turbo (nut and bolt) = 30lb
    turbo bracket to block = 33lb
    oil feed line to turbo = 18lb
    coolant supply pipe bracket to turbo = 7lb
    oil supply line bracket to head = 15lb
    coolant supply line to turbo = 18lb
    crankcase vent line to head = 7lb
    coolant return line to turbo = 22lb
    turbo to manifold = 26lb
    cat/downpipe to turbo = 22lb

  7. Member FTMFW's Avatar
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    12-24-2011 07:12 AM #7
    Reading this scares the sh!t out of me because I have reused and improperly torqued bolts ALL OVER my engine.

  8. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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    12-24-2011 01:08 PM #8
    Quote Originally Posted by FTMFW View Post
    Reading this scares the sh!t out of me because I have reused and improperly torqued bolts ALL OVER my engine.
    Rightly so!

    Here's the centerpiece of my specialty tool drawer

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  9. Member FTMFW's Avatar
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    12-24-2011 03:19 PM #9
    The day before my transmission swap I picked one up. It's been a slow "repair" process. Still need to replace a few bolts though.

  10. 01-18-2012 09:50 PM #10
    ARP Head STUD/Bolt spec: 3 equal steps leading to 80 ft lbs (26, 27, 27)

    ARP Main STUD spec: 3 equal steps leading to 60 ft/lbs (20,20,20), Torquing from the top nut main cap #3 in a down and outward spiral ending at the bottom nut of main cap #5

    To install ARP head studs you will need the tool that arp sells which is a male triple square socket, the kits are offered with this tool included for like $10

    threw the main stud spec in there for your thread grog since I just torqued mine yesterday, crank spins like butter =)

  11. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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    07-13-2012 05:07 AM #11
    Quote Originally Posted by 18T_BT View Post




    1. Subframe retaining brackets (on body)
    2. Welded nut (in body)
    3. Rear bonded rubber bushing for subframe
    4. Nut, self=locking (always replace)
    5. Bolt (always replace, tighten to 100Nm or 74ft/lb + 1/4 turn or 90 degrees)
    6. Rear bonded rubber bushing for control arm (press in/out)
    7. Bolt (always replace, tighten to 70Nm or 52ft/lbs + 1/4 turn or 90 degrees)
    8. Nut plate
    9. Nut, self-locking (always replace, tighten to 45Nm or 33ft/lb)
    10. Ball joint
    11. Bolts (always replace, tighten to 20Nm or 15ft/lb +1/4 turn or 90 degrees
    12. Control arm
    13. Stabilizer connecting link
    14. Bolt (tighten to 45Nm or 33ft/lb)
    15. Stabilizer bar (subframe must be lowered to remove and install)
    17. Bolt
    18. Bolt (always replace, tighten to 100Nm or 74ft/lb +1/4 turn or 90 degrees
    19. Front bonded rubber busing for control arm
    20. Bolt (always replace, tighten to 70Nm or 52ft/lb +1/4 turn or 90 degrees
    21. Bolt (always replace, tighten to 50Nm or 37ft/lb +1/4 turn or 90 degrees
    22. Bolt (always replace, tighten to 50Nm or 37ft/lb +1/4 turn or 90 degrees
    23. Pendulum support
    24. Bolts (always replace, tighten to 25Nm or 18ft/lb +1/4 turn or 90 degrees
    25. Stabilizer bar bushing
    26. Stabilizer bar mounting bracket
    27. Bolt (tighten to 25Nm or 18ft/lb
    28. Subframe (if damaged, do not repair threads in sub-frame for front control arm bolt)
    ^^
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  12. 07-13-2012 09:37 AM #12
    hehe i see what you did there
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  13. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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    07-13-2012 01:38 PM #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Mindfault View Post
    hehe i see what you did there
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  14. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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    08-27-2012 01:57 PM #14
    ...
    Last edited by groggory; 10-19-2012 at 04:40 PM.
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  15. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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    10-19-2012 04:16 PM #15
    Needs torque for motor and transmission mounts

    ...

    BFI motor and trans mount, complete replacement

    Top Bolt - 40 ft * lbs
    Last edited by groggory; 10-19-2012 at 10:09 PM.
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  16. Member Shamrock's Avatar
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    10-19-2012 04:40 PM #16
    Quote Originally Posted by groggory View Post

    yea looks pretty simple out of the engine bay...

  17. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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    10-24-2012 04:05 PM #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Shamrock View Post
    yea looks pretty simple out of the engine bay...
    I thought changing the timing belt with this manual tensioner setup was super easy compared to the stock tensioner. I was able to slip the timing belt on the cam gear much easier, and the tensioning part was cake.

    The way I did it was this...

    Time the belt first of all.

    Use your tension tool to turn the tensioner enough so that then tensioner is holding the belt tight'ish. Use your fingers to finger tight the nut so the tensioner keeps the tension.

    Use a wrench to put ~12 ft*lbs on the nut.

    Use the tensioner tool to put proper tension (90 degree twist) on the belt.

    Use a torque wrench to bring the nut to 33 ft*lbs. Double check belt tension. Readjust if the belt has become too tight.

    Turn the engine over by hand and double check your timing. If you're timing is off a tooth then repeat the process and fix your timing.

    Reassemble.

    This timing belt job was the easiest I've ever done.

    Note: With my tensioner tool the edge of the nut was flat against the side of my tool. In other words, I can't turn the nut AND have the tensioner tool positioned at the same time. That is why my procedure has the two step process of snugging the nut, tensioning, then torquing the nut, then double checking tension.
    Last edited by groggory; 10-24-2012 at 04:07 PM.
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  18. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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    12-11-2012 01:47 PM #18
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  19. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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    01-23-2013 02:13 AM #19
    Water pump bolts - 15 Nm
    Thermostat housing bolts - 15 Nm
    Camshaft pulley bolt - 65 Nm
    Crank pulley bolts - 25 Nm
    Serpentine belt tensioner - 25 Nm
    Engine mount to block - 45 Nm
    Engine mount to body - 40 Nm + 90 degree
    Engine mount bracket - 25 Nm
    Engine mount to mount to block - 100 Nm
    Cylinder head bolts - 40 Nm each + 90 degree each + 90 degree each
    Camshaft bearing cap bolts - 10 Nm
    Exhaust manifold nuts - 25Nm
    Crankshaft main bearing bolts - 65 Nm each + 90 degree each
    Spark plug - 30 Nm

    Front axle nuts (follow step by step)
    Vehicles with 12-point nut
    200 Nm then loosen 1/2 turn
    Turn hub 180 degrees
    50 Nm + 60 degree

    Vehicles with hex bolt
    250 Nm + 90 degrees
    Loosen 1/2 turn.
    Turn hub 180 degrees
    250 Nm + 90 degrees

    Rear axle nuts (FWD)
    175 Nm

    FWD suspension
    Ball joint to control arm -20 Nm + 90 degrees
    Pendulum support to sub-frame - 25 Nm
    Forward bolt for control arm - 70 Nm + 90 degrees
    Rearward bolt for control arm - 52 ft. lbs. + 90 degrees
    Coupling rod to stabilizer bar Axle shaft to axle flange - 30 Nm

    1 nm equals .737561 ft/lbs
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