you don't have to remove the whole strut.
undo the top nut
jack up the car
install the opposite way you took it apart
with the strut back where it should be carefully lower the car
tighten
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#1
Ok, I have been searching and I can't really seem to find anything that explains how to replace the strut mounts/ bearings.
With the car on the street - remove the nut, pull out the old strut mount/ bearing - install?
Or do you gotta jack it up?
Or do I have to get spring compressors etc and remove the whole strut assembly to R and R? Went with some OEM's and bearings for my 97 VR.
#2
you don't have to remove the whole strut.
undo the top nut
jack up the car
install the opposite way you took it apart
with the strut back where it should be carefully lower the car
tighten
![]()
#3
You'll need a spring compressor for sure. You have to be able to remove the 21mm nut that holds the strut bearing and bushing together. I guess you can probably try it with the strut still installed but its easy to remove and makes the job easier with it out. I just did mine this past weekend. You need a 22mm impact to get that top nut off or the vw special tool. I used a 22mm deep offset wrench and 7mm allen wrench at first, but then got the impact out and it was cake..
#4
Is the nut 21 or 22? Ide rather do it with it having to use a spring compressor tool (Ide have to rent one) and I don't have an impact. I guess I could borrow a buddy's if need be? How many do this with out removing the whole strut assembly?
#5
without an impact its gonna be a pain. if you have the newer style(96+ i think) its doable, if you have the older style that requires the special tool i wouldn't advise trying without an impact.
if the top nut has been covered and isn't rusty, you could grab the strut shaft with some big vise grips(as high up as possible where scratches won't matter) and use a 22mm socket wrench to free up that top bolt. just make sure the vise grips are not junk and that you've got them on there REAL tight, or you're just gonna give that shaft some nice scratches for nothing. make sure to payattention in what order stuff came off and put it back the same way. you're gonna need to use the vise grips on the shaft to tighten it all back up
Ruining volkswagens since 1996...or so i've been told
#6
I got a 97... So it's doable with out using a spring compressor tool?
#7
#8
yes can be done without the spring compressor, the weight of the car will compress the spring back down. did it that way a couple times way back in the day when tools were limited
Ruining volkswagens since 1996...or so i've been told
#9
I'm on h and r drop the black springs... Ok so remove nut jack car up, swap strut mount and bearing? Do I even gotta jack it up? Do you remove from up top of the shock or beneath in the wheel well?
#10
im sure once i get it apart itll be self explanatory but just trying to be prepared. Im gonna try and go to my buddys house to use his electric gun to zip off the top nut.
#11
sorry was at waterfest. so without the spring comp you need to zip off the top 2 bolts. the first one just holds that retainer ring thing on the top of the car, the 2nd holds the strut mount peices and spring cap onto the strut. yes you will need to jack the car up as it will be sitting on top of the part you want to change. also, in case it wasn't already assumed, tire off will give you alot more room to play around![]()
Ruining volkswagens since 1996...or so i've been told
#12
Undo top nut, jack up car, pry mount over the the nut that keeps the spring compressed, lower car back down to compress the spring, undo the second nut, take bearing out, place new bearing in, tighten nut back down, raise the car back up place mount on top of the strut, lower the car down carefully and the weight of it will pop the mount back over the nut, put the strut cap back on and tighten the last nut down.
Wagenwerx
#13
#14
#15
i can probably use that zip tool though hopefully. does it have to be torqued down specifically or just zipped down with the gun pretty good? just being able to do it with hand tools would be great, torque specs would be awesome but i can probably search for them or check my mk4 haines manual. great directions though thanks
#16
anyone know if there's any kind of grease/ spray for poly strut mounts for my rears, i hit some bumps and my drivers rear is creaking and squeaking like crazy driving me nuts but i dont think its bad.
Also mind you I have the black H and R lowering springs.
#17
yes can be done without a airgun, like i posted earlier, large visegrips high on the shaft(very very very tight)and a 22mm socket wrench and strong arms![]()
Ruining volkswagens since 1996...or so i've been told
#18
and no, torque not needed(or at least i never have in 15 years and haven't had an issue yet), just tighten it all the way
Ruining volkswagens since 1996...or so i've been told
#19
#20
yes from underneath, the only part above is the 1st nut and the large plate under it
Ruining volkswagens since 1996...or so i've been told
#21
ok thanks, I feel pretty confident. If i run into any snags i'll post up. Any advice for creaking poly strut mounts for the rear? Mine were quiet for a long time, since i bought the car they were on, i hit a decent pot hole and its been noisey ever since.
#22
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#24
I was able to get both nuts off, but I was unable to get the strut mount out? I tried getting over the 2nd nut 21mm but you can't take it out from the top of the strut tower on the body. It looks like it has to drop down, and with the spring there its impossible with out a compressor. I think what I need is a spring compressor on the spring while the shock is still in place so itll compress enough to get the strut mount out.
My strut mounts didn't even look bad though, they looked fine. I may have even weakened them by trying to pry them out with a screw driver.
This is why I bought them:, but when I removed the perch, everything looked fine.
#25
my other top perch thing is flush with the strut tower, while this one is popped up. I was searching and read if there a gap its not necessarily a bad thing. But while I have new strut mounts and bearings ide like to pop them in there.
the reason i bought them in the first place is someone pointed at the popped up perch in the pic and stated that i had a bad strut mount.![]()
#26
That is normal, not a bad strut bearing. All lowered VWs have a gap between the plate and the strut tower![]()
#27
My passengerside doesn't do it though only my drivers side. On the other hand my one poly rear strut mount is squeaking like crazy and driving me nuts. Does it just need lube or is it shot?
#30
I guess because my control arm bushings are poly, that it wasn't letting the tire drop down enough once the two nuts were removed to be able to get out the strut mount? I guess I should have pushed down on the tire more to drop the control arm down more. Its too hot today today to give it another go (no a/c) and since the strut mounts don't appear to be bad i'll just have to keep this in mind for the future.
#31
kus i have a half inch gap between my stop plate and strut tower. when wheel is off and car is jacked up if you lift up on the rotor the stop plate will move up and give it that half inch space. and once lowered on wheels the half inch gap remains, do i need to worry about this? do i need to replace my mounts or what? just want to be sure before i drive down the road and have my coil overs mess up. (mk4 vr6 jetta) advice would help. thanks
#32
I'm not sure. All i know is the one side does it more than the other which is weird. Also my strut tower brace is a little uneven maybe the towers are slighly uneven.