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Insan3's GTI Build

232K views 1K replies 129 participants last post by  MYGTI_MA 
#1 · (Edited)
Bought the car in October 09, loved it. 1998 T-Red GTI w/ DE leftovers. CEL came on the second I rolled out of the used dealer I bought it from, knew I was in for it :rolleyes: This is a glimpse from the two years ago, to today with my car, so if you don't want to read, look at the pics.

The day I brought it home:



Strong VR, no mechanical issues, just needed an ignition switch and 02 sensors and was good to go. Deleted res on the exhaust gave it a great sound. At the time HS and barely a part-time job didn't give me much 'play money', but I managed the little things over time like smoked side markers and eventually smoked ecodes.

Center dummies fell off :mad:


Went through 2 Jersey winters so far, and the winter won. Rust got beyond bad, and got to the point of where it wasn't structurally safe anymore.


This was after hitting a nice pothole caused by the weak pavement after the snowstorm: :banghead:


Car sat for a week or so until I could drop the extra cash on a replacement panel and then labor (don't want to talk about the price) But I was far too attached to the car at this point.

All done:


Threw in my Jahre belts:



THEN the transmission went, could have avoided it, but my cheap ass didn't want to buy the bit to check the trans fluid, lesson learned :( But I got a used trans w/ a bonus B&M short shifter for a good deal and with the help of vortex got it all swapped and buttoned up, even got the billet shifter bushings while I was at it (SO WORTH IT).



Fogs filled with water, so this was a cheap fix to my lack of fog lights, and pretty much how the car sits today.


Now I'm hooked. Loved working on it before, but now I want more. Made the car last for another winter while I hoarded parts to rebuild the motor, along with coilovers and some go fast goodies. Also threw on some Passat bottlecaps and Inpro smoked tails. No point in installing suspension or go-fast stuff since that rust I was talking about? Got worse.





Floor is completely fked, holes everywhere and bending down on the driver side, pass side needed love too. Fenders / fender wells had holes, both rockers went bent to hell (covered by sideskirts) and rusted, hatch was rusted behind plate tub, and the gas cap started bubbling up.






:mad::what::facepalm::(

THEN I found a DIY thread for the rockers, which is how I got in contact with Bob (silentdub on here) and when I can't say enough about what this guy can do with bodywork. Truly phenomenal. Awesome guy and he did an excellent job on EVERYTHING. The pics speak for themselves.











So then I got it back home, ready to swap the motor from my recently purchased 96 GTI (brother's old car, he bought a 2011 GTI so I took his mk3 off his hands, lots of motor work done).

I figure instead of taking the time to rebuild my VR, why not take one that has already been rebuilt a few months ago and swap it into the red one? Makes sense to me, so I proceed.





Crane, meet motor:


Out:



That's as far as I got for now, I'll be working on it more tomorrow so I'll keep this thread updated. Plans for this season is to give it a nice T-Red respray and get the new motor running perfect. Next season is boost. My other GTI is in the background in the last pic, You'll see me at WF:thumbup:

:wave:
 
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#8 ·
USED to have a smashed rocker, USED to :laugh:

I'm glad you are happy with my bodywork. That hood had more waves than a god damn ocean. I think we got them all though.

Anyone with an MKIII with rotted rocker panels, the rockers are not the only thing rotted! The floor and other mount points are rotted too.

This car took a lot of bodywork. The two lower fenders were rotted, wheel wells had hole, wheel well lip was blasted, gas cap area was lasted.

New rear floor pans, structural support was replaced as well.

While I was working on that and waiting for stuff to dry, we went ahead and fixed all of the dings on this car. The sides look like someone played morse code down each body line.

The roof was in perfect condition and required 0 work though. :thumbup:
Can't say it enough. Phenomenal work = understatement.

:thumbup: And a :beer: to you for helping out in my trans thread last season.

ECS sells replacement rocker panels. Check it out.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_III--VR6_12v/Search/Rocker/ES2180509/

They also sell replacement wheel arches.
ECS didn't have them ready to be shipped when I bought mine, I got them from shermanparts for like $66 per side + shipping. It's the same brand so getting them from ECS now is a STEAL for them. Fit perfectly.

Didn't get much done today, because I decided to go to the beach instead. Managed to get the front crossmember down to check the frame rails for rust. There's some, but it's not too bad.
 
#3 ·
I'm glad you are happy with my bodywork. That hood had more waves than a god damn ocean. I think we got them all though.


Anyone with an MKIII with rotted rocker panels, the rockers are not the only thing rotted! The floor and other mount points are rotted too.

This car took a lot of bodywork. The two lower fenders were rotted, wheel wells had hole, wheel well lip was blasted, gas cap area was lasted.

New rear floor pans, structural support was replaced as well.

While I was working on that and waiting for stuff to dry, we went ahead and fixed all of the dings on this car. The sides look like someone played morse code down each body line.

The roof was in perfect condition and required 0 work though. :thumbup:
 
#4 ·
Anyone with an MKIII with rotted rocker panels, the rockers are not the only thing rotted! The floor and other mount points are rotted too.
How do you normally go about replacing rockers? Floors are pretty straight forward, but do you source new rockers or search for a donor car?
 
#15 · (Edited)
Yeah, I'm game. If anyone needs some work done, I'm in Newark De.

I work out of my house, this is a side thing. I just need whoever to plan accordingly since I only have so much space. I just got a Pontiac G5 in that hit a deer, so this is what I am working on now while rebuilding a 1.6 Diesel.

here's a link to my 1st MK3 Rocker Job. http://www.mk1dubz.com/forums/showthread.php?t=642


That car took me 3 months. New Rockers, Floors, Dent/Ding removal, Shaved door handles, Shaved rear hatch, Shaved license plate area, gas filler, Shaved the side bodyline as well as the gutters on the roof, all perfectly smooth.

Oh, we also modified the hood.



The hood follows the contour of the car and covers the headlights. This took a little bit to get it right. There were two bends in it, so it took some time.

Don't even ask me how much, because you probably couldn't afford it, that entire car was a major project.


Oh, forgot to mention I also had to replace the rear QTR panel as well as the inner wheel well.
 
#19 ·
Really? I'll check it out next time (if it's still there). I wish I jumped on the $40 OEM hoods when they were still available, prob woulda saved you a ton of work. Looks just as good now though!

Replaced my steering rack boots when I did the R32 / poly control arm bushings, but the passenger side boot is all ****ed up again. So I ordered another boot and got some poly sway bar bushings while I was at it. Found out that I didn't have swaybar bushings at all :facepalm: That explains some really dumb noises.

Also decided to keep my current exhaust / dp on there. It's gonna be changed when I boost it next season so I'm not going through the hassle now.

Now I have to start unboxing everything I have hoarded over the winter. :D
 
#26 ·
:thumbup:

any more pics of the hood process?.... apreciate it....

good luck bro :thumbup:
The boser? Not mine so I can't help you there. But Bob did my hood perfectly, this is the only pic I have right now:


the power here in north east ohio was shot for about 8 hours. be glad you weren't here trying to do this work with no ac or power whatsoever.
I wouldn't have done work until the power came back. Having a garage is great so I'm not directly in the sun, but it's still crazy hot to do work.

Today I fought with my tie rods to get them out, no good. Due to the heat I got impatient and got out my cutting wheels ;) Problem solved.


Then I removed the inner tie rod with the KD Tools 3312 piece, per DJR recommendation. Made removing the tie rods easy as can be. :thumbup:

Also started removing the struts but since I don't have air tools I realized I can't get the top bolt off without that special tool. :banghead: No big deal, just need to hold off on them right now. Also got a new steering rack boot and some poly swaybar bushings today so they will go on shortly.
 
#27 ·
a torch would have help out on that. as for the heat theres only one thing to do. reach down in ur pants and see if you have a sack hanging in between your legs. if there is a sack make sure there are balls there. if there is then heat shouldnt be an issue. what part of jerz are you from? my girl said it was pretty hot up there but im used to 130 deg so i just called her a pus. good luck with the car man. looking pretty good so far :thumbup:
 
#29 ·
Haven't had a lot of time last week to work on it. Everything I touched when the car was apart before came out very easy. Everything I didn't touch (suspension and such) was a bitch and a half to get out. I :heart: my breaker bars.

Stock suspension out:




Guess which ones gave me trouble?


Got my swaybar bushings on. I had to drop the subframe to get them in there tight (didn't plan on that) but it's done. Tomorrow I should get the control arms bolted back in. so the subframe will be done.


Took this to show off more of Bob's work, the rockers are perfect.


And my crazy dirty interior, I have some plans but the motor / body is more important :p
 
#31 ·
BTW does anyone know where I can get the OEM vr6 door sills? They were adhered to my old rockers but there was no way to reuse them. I like them. I know there are some aftermarket ones available (I have them on my other GTI) but I would prefer the ones that came stock on 97-99 Vr6 GTI's.
 
#35 ·
Small update. I still haven't gotten the control arms back in :mad: All the bolts line up except the one that goes through the bushing. Bottom half lined up, top half isn't moving for ****.

Hopefully tonight I can get it back together and get some real work done. All of this was because of those freaking swaybar bushings. Yesterday was a wasted day.

While I gave up on that I owned some more rust on the rails, all gone now. Some little spots on the underbody to get yet but that's not a big deal. :cool:
 
#36 ·
Tonight I got the control arms back in so the subframe is all good to go. I started installing my coilovers and I think I'm just getting paranoid about missing things. Brand new coils, HD strut mounts / bearings, new self locking nuts. Maybe these are just extra? Unless I'm missing something which is throwing me off.

This is how they came:


HD mounts / bearings / self locking nut


This is how I put them together based on the stock suspension / bently. Spun the coils down, put the bearing / mount on and tightened the self locking nut. Went to put it on the car and then put the new silver nut on over the cap to hold it there. What is the extra nut for, if anything? Did I miss something?



Next update will be some good progress.
 
#37 ·
lower it.

haha, but yeah man that looks like all the parts.
Do you have that special tool to tighten the top nut?
It's needed bc you need to hold it in place with this tool and then draw an allen key through the top of it to hold it in place while you turn.

now some ppl will tell u to just use an impact gun, gotta be easy if u do. :thumbup:
 
#40 ·
Yeah PK I have the special tool. I use it on the black nut pictured right? And then a regular socket for the one that goes above the cap? The special tool just keeps that nut tight to the new mounts?

Looking at this thread again, man that body looks smooth!


We have to get that F'er painted. I think we should use a 3 stage instead of 2 stage.

Base Coat, Mid Coat (Clear with 10% color added) Clear Coat.

3 coats of each should do it and add a depth to the car.

You should save up and go with Glasurit paint. If not, we'll go with pro-spray which is also excellent.

Let me get a few more sprays under my belt and then we'll talk. I got a G5 to paint next week, I'll see how that comes out with my new gun and let you know.
I'm making good progress now that the annoying stuff is done. I'm all for a 3 stage. I'll look into Glasurit and how much it's gonna cost me, I don't want to paint it and wish I used a different paint afterwards. Doing it ONCE. Keep me posted on your other cars because I miss when mine was red :(;)

Question for the OP. When you pulled out the motor and opened the A/C, did you have a shop vacuum it or did you just crack open a line and let it leak? :laugh: I'm getting ready to pull out the motor in my car.
I used the drain line near the firewall, no I didn't use a shop vacuum, yes that's illigal. I think you can pull the motor without draining the AC by removing the compressor / condenser and leave the lines attached but that was WAY too much of a hassle for me.
 
#38 ·




Looking at this thread again, man that body looks smooth!


We have to get that F'er painted. I think we should use a 3 stage instead of 2 stage.

Base Coat, Mid Coat (Clear with 10% color added) Clear Coat.

3 coats of each should do it and add a depth to the car.

You should save up and go with Glasurit paint. If not, we'll go with pro-spray which is also excellent.

Let me get a few more sprays under my belt and then we'll talk. I got a G5 to paint next week, I'll see how that comes out with my new gun and let you know.
 
#39 ·
Question for the OP. When you pulled out the motor and opened the A/C, did you have a shop vacuum it or did you just crack open a line and let it leak? :laugh: I'm getting ready to pull out the motor in my car.
 
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