Insan3's GTI Build

[Insan3Vr6]

Tonight I got the control arms back in so the subframe is all good to go. I started installing my coilovers and I think I'm just getting paranoid about missing things. Brand new coils, HD strut mounts / bearings, new self locking nuts. Maybe these are just extra? Unless I'm missing something which is throwing me off.

This is how they came:


HD mounts / bearings / self locking nut


This is how I put them together based on the stock suspension / bently. Spun the coils down, put the bearing / mount on and tightened the self locking nut. Went to put it on the car and then put the new silver nut on over the cap to hold it there. What is the extra nut for, if anything? Did I miss something?



Next update will be some good progress.

[PKstrategy]

lower it.

haha, but yeah man that looks like all the parts.
Do you have that special tool to tighten the top nut?
It's needed bc you need to hold it in place with this tool and then draw an allen key through the top of it to hold it in place while you turn.

now some ppl will tell u to just use an impact gun, gotta be easy if u do.

[silentdub]

Looking at this thread again, man that body looks smooth!


We have to get that F'er painted. I think we should use a 3 stage instead of 2 stage.

Base Coat, Mid Coat (Clear with 10% color added) Clear Coat.

3 coats of each should do it and add a depth to the car.

You should save up and go with Glasurit paint. If not, we'll go with pro-spray which is also excellent.

Let me get a few more sprays under my belt and then we'll talk. I got a G5 to paint next week, I'll see how that comes out with my new gun and let you know.

[Bariman82]

Question for the OP. When you pulled out the motor and opened the A/C, did you have a shop vacuum it or did you just crack open a line and let it leak? I'm getting ready to pull out the motor in my car.

[Insan3Vr6]

lower it.

haha, but yeah man that looks like all the parts.
Do you have that special tool to tighten the top nut?
It's needed bc you need to hold it in place with this tool and then draw an allen key through the top of it to hold it in place while you turn.

now some ppl will tell u to just use an impact gun, gotta be easy if u do.

Yeah PK I have the special tool. I use it on the black nut pictured right? And then a regular socket for the one that goes above the cap? The special tool just keeps that nut tight to the new mounts?

Looking at this thread again, man that body looks smooth!


We have to get that F'er painted. I think we should use a 3 stage instead of 2 stage.

Base Coat, Mid Coat (Clear with 10% color added) Clear Coat.

3 coats of each should do it and add a depth to the car.

You should save up and go with Glasurit paint. If not, we'll go with pro-spray which is also excellent.

Let me get a few more sprays under my belt and then we'll talk. I got a G5 to paint next week, I'll see how that comes out with my new gun and let you know.

I'm making good progress now that the annoying stuff is done. I'm all for a 3 stage. I'll look into Glasurit and how much it's gonna cost me, I don't want to paint it and wish I used a different paint afterwards. Doing it ONCE. Keep me posted on your other cars because I miss when mine was red

Question for the OP. When you pulled out the motor and opened the A/C, did you have a shop vacuum it or did you just crack open a line and let it leak? I'm getting ready to pull out the motor in my car.

I used the drain line near the firewall, no I didn't use a shop vacuum, yes that's illigal. I think you can pull the motor without draining the AC by removing the compressor / condenser and leave the lines attached but that was WAY too much of a hassle for me.

[PKstrategy]

Yeah PK I have the special tool. I use it on the black nut pictured right? And then a regular socket for the one that goes above the cap? The special tool just keeps that nut tight to the new mounts?

Correct.

Say, what size are the bolts to the back of the exhaust manifold/downpipe? how many?

Do you know what you used to undo the motor mounts?

Sorry, if this is jacking your thread, i'll remove the posts

[Insan3Vr6]

K now I feel better about the coils then. Thanks!

I am horrible at remembering bolt sizes. I have a whole set so I just keep trying until they fit. With the radiator off you can get to the front mount easily, I wanna say 16mm? Could be wrong. Two extensions for the rear motor mount, one for the trans mount.

I separated the downpipe from the headers, 6 in total because there's 3 on each header. Again the size, I don't remember. They are nuts, not bolts, and one of my studs actually broke on the way out from rust, so I need a new header now

[Bariman82]

I used the drain line near the firewall, no I didn't use a shop vacuum, yes that's illigal. I think you can pull the motor without draining the AC by removing the compressor / condenser and leave the lines attached but that was WAY too much of a hassle for me.

That's what I did this morning; just left it hooked it, but completely out of the way. Thanks anyway.

[Insan3Vr6]

That's what I did this morning; just left it hooked it, but completely out of the way. Thanks anyway.

Got the front coils on, I am going to need one hell of an alignment after all this.


Also took off the brakes. Front and rear will be getting some nice fresh red on it. For whatever reason I guess the PO replaced the brakes and left one side red and the other not. Always bothered me.



Need to find my loctite, I bought a bottle last week for my new tie rods and I can't find it

[silentdub]

I posted some general prices for the work I do here:

http://www.mk1dubz.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6406

I'm not always here checking messages, so email me if you need anything. I get it on my BB.

[Insan3Vr6]

I posted some general prices for the work I do here:

http://www.mk1dubz.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6406

I'm not always here checking messages, so email me if you need anything. I get it on my BB.

Dope prices

Got some more done today. Rust on the frame rails is officially all taken care of.


This is a pic from last night when I finally got my R32 bushing equipped control arms back in place and bolted up.


Got my KD tool out again and put some red loctite on the threads of my new inner tie rods. Put my torque wrench on em and it was easy as can be. Both sides are done now.




Was going to get the boots / outer tie rods on today as well but I had to stop to pick these up. Got a good deal so I couldn't refuse.

[Bariman82]

Do you have any rust IN the frame rails?

[Insan3Vr6]

Do you have any rust IN the frame rails?

Nope, completely solid. Just some 12 year old surface rust.

[silentdub]

Nope, completely solid. Just some 12 year old surface rust.

If you want to stiffen up those frame rails, fill them with the spray foam. I will add about 15% rigidity to the rails, make it quiet and seal it up at the same time. The spray foams in a car are urethane, so they will seal out moisture.

[kevind91]

yo Evan!The Cars come a long way since highschool man..looking forward to the end result!

Hopefully I'm gonna be ripping my vr out soon and putting in work on my junk.

[Bariman82]

See, that's my issue; surface rust INSIDE the rear frame rail. I need to get that out before I can coat or spray anything.

[Insan3Vr6]

If you want to stiffen up those frame rails, fill them with the spray foam. I will add about 15% rigidity to the rails, make it quiet and seal it up at the same time. The spray foams in a car are urethane, so they will seal out moisture.

May be doing this. Do I just spray it in one of the holes in the rails? Seems easy enough.

yo Evan!The Cars come a long way since highschool man..looking forward to the end result!

Hopefully I'm gonna be ripping my vr out soon and putting in work on my junk.

Kev!! Dude you need to come over and check everything out, we can discuss some vr6 goodness. Haven't seen your car since that day in front of Target, haha. You back in Jersey? Hit me up

See, that's my issue; surface rust INSIDE the rear frame rail. I need to get that out before I can coat or spray anything.

Best of luck with your Jetta man, def a lot more rust than I would want to deal with. Hope you get it all done though

[Insan3Vr6]

Unfortunately this car won't make it to H20 , unless I come in to some serious cash to get all the cool stuff I want to get before paint. School is going to be starting up soon also so my priorities are going elsewhere.

I have the next few days off of work so I should get the front steering / suspension components all buttoned up and have the rear coils on. I found one of my sway bar end links ripped so I have to order a new ones.

This is the car I'll be driving to H20, just put in my recaro seats. This was my brother's old car, all props go to him for the mods done. Excuse the iphone pics.

[PKstrategy]

keep your head up Evan
It's a worthy temp replacement and at least this won't stop u from going to H20.
U know I'm in a very similar boat as you and even though I'm gonna keep truckin hard, i'm 100% ok if I don't finish in time. Better to take your time and do it right, than to rush to get it done and forget a critical thing or 2.

[Insan3Vr6]

Thanks PK. Def not stopping, and I have no issues whatsoever with not finishing it since I have my other GTI. Just gives me more time to do everything I want to the car without rushing. This will be my first H20, can't wait to meet some of you cool dudes

I want IN on that mk3 GTG on that rooftop thing...lol

Anyway today I got the front suspension buttoned up and back on the ground, yeah I didn't put the brakes on, but that's because I'm working on them.

Stock out back, coils in the front:


I need to move on the rears now, but my hatch lock never worked. I always used the button on the inside of the car to open it, now the battery is out so that wont' work. How do I open the hatch WITHOUT breaking anything? This is what I'm working with. Should I just put the battery back on so I can hit the button?


Also did a quick pchop of what the back of my car will look like after everything (minus the euro bumper). Shaved body line under tails, no badges, shaved wiper hole / emblem. Shaved keyhole. My question is on the keyhole. How would I shave that? Thanks doods.

[Insan3Vr6]

NVM It's 4am and I went out to my garage to get a drink. Played with the lock a bit more and got the hatch open (pull plastic rod thing with the boot on it to the right (as would happen when the button is pressed) and pop goes the hatch.

Rear coils will be on tomorrow (today).

[Insan3Vr6]

Progress slowed a bit because I'm helping a friend replace the steering rack on a 93 mustang w/ cobra swap.

Going to sears to replace some broken bits / wrenches, hopefully get some good progress on the brakes before I start school again. Any info on the plate tub lock shaving mentioned above?

[PKstrategy]

I think for the key hole shaving, you'll need another spare tub and use it as a donor.
The material (hard plastic?) seems different than anything else on the rest of the body.

[fukdapo9]

Watching

[Insan3Vr6]

I think for the key hole shaving, you'll need another spare tub and use it as a donor.
The material (hard plastic?) seems different than anything else on the rest of the body.

I do have another plate tub from my other GTI, so I can use that when the time comes. Guess I need to look into a plastic welder? and I assume a body filler is used to smooth it out?

[PKstrategy]

sounds about right
lay down some primer, paint, wet sand (?), then clear.
I'm no paint/body pro, but those steps should get ya a result looking like it came from the factory that way.

[Insan3Vr6]

Nice. I'm no body pro either, that's what Silentdub is for! Thanks for the info PK.

[catalina2.o]

damm youuu.. i needa replace my rockers toooo

[Insan3Vr6]

damm youuu.. i needa replace my rockers toooo

It's nice knowing I have minty rockers. OH and BTW, that plate you made for the engine stand? I want.

[bmxdublover]

animal

[silentdub]

damm youuu.. i needa replace my rockers toooo

hmmmm. maybe we can work something out there VR man.

[Insan3Vr6]

Small update:

Almost done installing everything I collected before I can start focusing on the motor again. All I have left is the rear brakes / rotors. I was just going to rebuild the stock rear calipers but I'm leaning towards upgrading to mk4 units w/ stainless lines. Seems like a cheap enough mod that is well worth it, especially since I'm taking them off anyway.

SO

I'll just remove my stock calipers for now, and when I get a good deal on some mk4 ones I'll throw them on. Latest pic of the car:




Also, I finally got my second set of Jahre belts, only the fronts, and they are were blown, but since I'm becoming somewhat of a genius at mk3 seatbelts, I got the jahre webbing into NA belt housings like I did with my first set. Already got one finished and ready to be installed:



I would have installed them in my other car already but for whatever reason that little black 'button'(? seen on the black belt in the below pic) was removed that keeps the clicker part up near the b-pillar, and not on the floor. I still could use them but it would drive me nuts. Have to find out if I can get a new one pressed on the belt before I put the put the webbing on.

[PKstrategy]

jealous of the seatbelts!
but yeah def do the mk4 caliper "upgrade"
it's a bit of a pita, but def doable.

[SlowVRT]

Watching.

[Insan3Vr6]

Are they that bad? From what I understand they bold right to the mk3 carriers. Then you just need the lines with a banjo bolt?

Seems pretty plug and play.