Got my wheels today. Haven't seen these in the vortex classifieds that often and really liked them so I had to get them. I'm planning on getting coilovers in the spring ( H&R Ultra Ultra Lows )
Enkei Apache V's 14 x 6 ET 18
So far looks like center bore needs increased about 0.7 mm or so and they are hitting front brake calipers. Not sure yet what to do if I will grind the calipers or look into spacers, but I don't want to poke. I would like them to be flush with the fenders.
I'm going to look into getting the lips with little nicks smoothed out and centers powder coated since there is some worn spots but overall in very good shape.
Today I got to check out the wheel fitment a little better. I removed the caliper and test fit the wheel and the center bore is good, must of just been my eyes deceiving me with the caliper. A friend stopped by and also brought a couple spacers he had. A 6mm spacer allowed me to just be able to clear the caliper. I believe I'm going to switch the front brakes out to the newer KH brakes. I won't really know how the the wheels will sit until I get my suspension, tires and alignment.
Been tinkering away on the rabbit in my free time but haven't updated in a while.
I finally took out my steering column to replace my wasted lower bearing. It steers very nice now with no rattling or bumps.
I took my head off for some work and also replace the head gasket. I had 4 new exhaust valve guides, new valve stem seals, valve job, cam seal and head resurfaced at Krimes. I also replaced the passenger side motor mount while I had the head off since I had put new mounts in for the rest.
Head back on with upper front strut bar.
I also add a NOS wooden Wolfsburg shift knob I picked up from a guy on the samba.
So I removed my early style calipers and rebuilt a pair of KH calipers to put on with vented rotors. I also got my H&R Ultra Ultra Low coilovers on with my wheels. I had to grind the caliper carriers a little and use 5mm spacers to clear, and I also used 15mm spacers in the rear. Suspension still needs to settle some and I need an alignment. The rear rubs the finders a bit going around corners with bumps I guess from body roll.
awesome finally pics of the KH i sold you
great job on the head, shifter knob, and steering column!
now you just need a pimp early scirocco style steering wheel
project is flowing along nicely, keep it up
Last edited by rabbitnothopper; 04-17-2012 at 09:24 PM.
not too bad.... i was the one who disconnected them off that 91 ea in the 100F dirt
and yea, my 81 had bronze colored fluid until i flushed it also
fluid needs to be flushed every few years
good thing you got them rebuilt like a pro
so tell us about the difference in braking?
does it seem stiffer, stop faster, no fade on the pedal?
how about the ET clearance on those rims?
those KH calipers were designed to accept Vents etc so glad you went with those rotors
although you could have gone either way
i didnt need those calipers
the Teves on my 78 work just fine
Brakes are a lot better. Not sure how much was due to my old lines flexing a bunch from most likely being old or the upgraded brakes.
So I had some issues Friday night, I was pulling into parking lot and my car starts steaming and leaking lots of coolant from the radiator cap. Called AAA and had it towed back to my house.
So far I've confirmed my radiator fan works by jumping it straight from the battery and also by adding a jumper wire across the connectors on the radiator fan switch. The fuse for the fan was also good. Today I topped my radiator off with coolant from what had spilled out and warmed the car back up in my driveway. The fan did not come on and I noticed steam starting to come out of the radiator cap again so I shut it off before it started leaking. The bitch of it is I have no coolant temp gauge to judge to know if its overheating. I was thinking of buying an infrared thermometer to check the temp of the block.
I'm trying to figure out what my issue is with the car.
Things done recently:
head gasket (very recently)
thermostat (put a new one in while doing head gasket)
water pump (4-5k ago)
Also my ignition timing is a bit more than the 6 BTDC as it seemed a little sluggish at 6. Can the ignition timing cause overheating issues? I did order a new radiator fan switch to try to see if that is why my fan is not turning on and also another radiator cap.
I'm really hoping this didn't just mess up my brand new head gasket and getting my head surfaced.
hmmmm...ignition timing can cause higher temp and so can fuel mix (lean is hot)
i think you need to find out if your coolant is flowing
if the radiator fan switch isnt getting hot then it may not be toggling the fan
of course if the switch is bad (you can test its resistance cold & hot) then obviously i wont switch the fan on
obviously cold you will have infinity or a HIGH ohms (open), HOT you should have zero or LOW ohms (closed)
check the upper/lower rad hoses as the car warms up
hmmm why no gauge??
there is normally a cheap sensor on the head outlet flange facing the transmission
it is possible to add too much coolant
coolant expands as it heats and the radiator cap is designed to vent pressure over 15psi
so is your block plugged?
tried opening or closing the heater core on the HVAC?
well the heater core is passive so no pressure really enters there
as long as your oil is black and not milky cream then your HG is fine
also smell your exhaust, if it smells "sweet" or is white colored then yes you broke the HG.
also pressure from the cyliners would enter into the coolant causing excessive pressure in the rad
since you dont have an overflow tank you cant really test that
Last edited by rabbitnothopper; 05-22-2012 at 12:33 AM.
sounds like your fan switch could have taken a **** and stopped working.. might be a good idea to get a low temp fan switch to be safe.
Where'd you get the new lower column bearing assembly?
My car just has cyclops dash bezel. I only have an idiot light, no gauge.
Yeah I might have to get a low temp switch and thermostat to put in. It currently just has standard 87 degree t-stat and switch.
I got the lower bearing from mk1autohaus. My inner race was still good yet, just a couple little cracks in it but nothing to hurt its stability. The bearing was the only part replaced.
i think i have a spare temp gauge if you want me to mail it
you can custom up your own mounting, wires are not difficult
but i believe it requires 10volts from the voltage stabilizer
its from a later style cluster (not early round cluster)
anything is better than nothing.
nice progress, might want to look into getting a dual round gauge cluster. it gives you a tach and a normal coolant gauge. kinda bummed i didnt see this earlier as I would've recommended doing more head work or even looking for a big valve 1.6 head. it really wakes up the 1.6. either way, keep it up. car looks great