Instead, I lowered the car as low as I could get it while still allowing the tires to roll and putting a coil over where the shock would go. I will then adjust the coil so it raises the car slightly so there is plenty of clearance while stiffening the suspension. I'm only talking about a 95ft spring.
I was thinking the same about the stock shock mounts not being rated. So with just a 95# spring, will it actually raise the car up (instead of the spring simply compressing and the ride height staying the same)? Is that's all that's needed?
Let's say the spring on the coil is heavier. That will put more of the vehicle load on the actual coilover and mounts. So you've found that 95# is a happy medium, where it's not too light that it wont do anything, and not too heavy that it will take too much load. Is that the general idea?
Ok, so quick update...
The last wheel is finally sealing properly so that can be crossed off the list.
The next item was coilover fitting. Unfortunately, the upper mount on the car is too narrow to accept the 2.5" ID coil spring so a bit of trimming/notching is necessary.
I borrowed this pic from the thesamba library to show how narrow and close to the support beam the upper shock mount is:
So what I'll need to do is to notch the area on the right of the mount at the same height as the one on the left. I only need about 1 to 1.5" but it'll get boxed in for strength.
Damn these projects
I just heard back from Strange Engineering and they're saying that I can mount the coil upside down as long as I take the provision of checking that there is no air in the tube.
This is great news because it means that I don't HAVE to notch anything.
There is a chance that the car will be together this weekend /*jinx*
Looks great Raff...I followed your squareback thread as well on the samba, this looks to be equally as epic.
Very interested in seeing how the coils work out...will any of the weight be sitting on the torsion bar once the coils are dialed in to have it raised slightly?
Actually, most of the weight is going to be supported by the torsion bars. In my application, all I need the coils to do is to carry the last % of the weight that allows for fine tuning of the ride height and shock valving. In other words, all the coil is going to do is to allow me to fine tune the height while stiffening the dampening/rebound.
I started buffing the hood yesterday. I only did the one side with Meguiars M105 before deciding that the buffs I was using just weren't doing the job. I mean, it doesn't look bad but I'm not shooting for 'not bad'.
On a tip from a friend, he let me know that there was a 67 fasty at a local scrap shop so I decided to head over during my lunch break.
It seems to have been in a front end accident and yes, those are bug lights screwed onto the fenders.... so I automatically set my expectations way way low...
But lookie here.... Z-ARM RESTS! (both fronts and rears!)
And a little bamboo tray to boot...
These were really the only thing on the car that was worth saving. Everything else was either tore up or extremely dented or rusted through. Nonetheless, very productive lunch break.
Thought I'd clean up the front apron a bit since it was the ugliest part of the car. This is the before
And the marginally better after. I'm not too worried about it since you'd practically have to be on your knees to see under there.
Thought I'd do a bit more polishing. This is what Meguiars M105 on a rotary buffer at about 1500 rpm gets you.
Took the fender off to get to the spray paint. Happy to find the inside of the fender is in pretty good shape; dirty, but in good shape.
A little all purpose cleaner and a steel wool pad and the paint is gone. That line is where, somewhere in its life, a PO didn't bother removing the fenders for a respray. Alas, its all clean now. I'll polish it next and get the other fender ready to go on.