***Autocross and trackday pics-info and chat thread******

[mgyip]

The only downside to triangulating the rear beam is that fix is 1) permanent and 2) impossible to repair when (not if) the rear beam gets bent.

[thepaintcanman]

If any trailing arm gets bent I wouldn't "fix" it. It's not permanent. I can take the arms out if I choose.

[thepaintcanman]

some guys "box" in the arm. I wouldn't. That is permanent and more of a PITA than it's worth.

Boxing in the rear arm and triangulation are 2 different things.

[Daskoupe]

well just bought the everything i need to do the rear end.Should be doing it the last saturday of the month

[ncbrock]

well just bought the everything i need to do the rear end.Should be doing it the last saturday of the month

Triangulated or boxed?

[Daskoupe]

Triangulated or boxed?

that one

[thepaintcanman]

that's mine!!!!

[Daskoupe]

that's mine!!!!

Coping the **** outta you!Where did you get your threaded rods and hiem joints from

[huichox4]

Coping the **** outta you!Where did you get your threaded rods and hiem joints from

hey DasKoupe your inbox is full....... sorry for the threadjack

[Daskoupe]

fixed!

[thepaintcanman]

summit racing has a bunch of new fab parts with rod ends, heims and all sorts.

Did you get the SCCH kit or doing your own?

[ncbrock]

now ive seen beams triangulated different ways. Some have the pyramid on the bottom of the strut mount and some are one top. Any advantages or is it just a preference of space?

[Daskoupe]

summit racing has a bunch of new fab parts with rod ends, heims and all sorts.

Did you get the SCCH kit or doing your own?

doing my own.I got a fully metal shop to use lol


And Ncbrock i'm not sure of the advantages but this is what VWMS designed for there race cars so its gotta be good if not best

[thepaintcanman]

It's to keep toe and camber in check when the car is loaded in a corner. Also aided more for the ralley tarmacs to keep **** from bending

[Daskoupe]

It's to keep toe and camber in check when the car is loaded in a corner. Also aided more for the ralley tarmacs to keep **** from bending

but it makes a huge difference in handling i hear?

[thepaintcanman]

it's argumentative. I'll be taking it off next track day in a couple weeks. Only cars faster than us at the Porsche events are the Cup cars.

I want to see the difference between 1) triangulated no sway 2) triangulated sway 3) no triangulation w sway.

[mgyip]

[QUOTE=thepaintcanman;76761851I want to see the difference between 1) triangulated no sway 2) triangulated sway 3) no triangulation w sway.[/QUOTE]

Me too - could you be convinced to post results?

I just picked up a spare rear beam - I'm tempted to have it triangulated but don't want to throw money at it just because it sounds like a good idea.

[thepaintcanman]

I will. Still do it. I know the handling is better than not having, I just want to see by how much. I went to 500 rates in the rear.

[Daskoupe]

I will. Still do it. I know the handling is better than not having, I just want to see by how much. I went to 500 rates in the rear.

anyone know where to get different springs?These St's are understeer city

I have a buddy who has ITB winning mk2 with 440's all the way around and a bsi rear bar.He wants a bar like yours Bryson

[thepaintcanman]

you guys wanna a teaser?

[Daskoupe]

you guys wanna a teaser?

[mgyip]

I will. Still do it. I know the handling is better than not having, I just want to see by how much. I went to 500 rates in the rear.

Great - it's always nice to have empirical data from someone with a bit of experience

Then again, it's amusing to read the replies of "Yo, this bar is tight - the car handles so good that it out-turns the Porsches"...who are all slowing down to avoid getting hit by the spinning VW...

What rates are you running in front? I'm running 600# front and 450# rear on a 16v. On an 8v, I could see 450# front and rear although my driving style (or lack thereof) prefers a heavier front spring.

[thepaintcanman]

mk2 euro Carbon bumpers getting ready to go in the moulds...

[thepaintcanman]

Then again, it's amusing to read the replies of "Yo, this bar is tight - the car handles so good that it out-turns the Porsches"...who are all slowing down to avoid getting hit by the spinning VW...

umm?

running 450 front and 500 rear

[choochoo]

Great - it's always nice to have empirical data from someone with a bit of experience

Then again, it's amusing to read the replies of "Yo, this bar is tight - the car handles so good that it out-turns the Porsches"...who are all slowing down to avoid getting hit by the spinning VW...

What rates are you running in front? I'm running 600# front and 450# rear on a 16v. On an 8v, I could see 450# front and rear although my driving style (or lack thereof) prefers a heavier front spring.

I run 325#front and 250#rear. I feel so inadequate but then again, I drive this car on the normal streets with potholes and such.....

[CHETVW007]

Great thread! Not enough of this in the mk2 forum.
FWITW I got 195/50/15 Dunlop Star specs last year. They did awesome in the dry and heavy wet (the BMWs couldn't catch me in the rain)
A friend gave me some half worn 205/50/15 RA1s...bought myself RPF1s for Xmas....excited and nervous to use them this year. How many warm up laps should I do with the RA1s before I can trust their warm enough?

[choochoo]

It really depends on how old and how many heat cycles those RA1's have gone through. I can't say for the track, but I had some worn old RA1's that I autocrossed with. Took about 5~6 0:40~0:50 second runs to get the rears up to temp. The fronts would take a couple of runs.

[naterkane]

It really depends on how old and how many heat cycles those RA1's have gone through. I can't say for the track, but I had some worn old RA1's that I autocrossed with. Took about 5~6 0:40~0:50 second runs to get the rears up to temp. The fronts would take a couple of runs.

i know tirerack offers a heatcycling service for $10 or so per corner. it might be something worth looking into if you don't have a place to go and setup a car before an event.

mk2 euro Carbon bumpers getting ready to go in the moulds...

since the plastics themselves aren't very heavy, what about instead moulding some bumper support bars and brackets? (since the euro bumper supports are flimsy as hell and useless for 5mph touching anyway)

i know that i'd prefer to just run lighter bumper bars myself over replacing plastic with carbon. in the meantime, there's always drillium.

[thepaintcanman]

doing those too

[Project_2501]

This is a good read thus far.

I'm swapping Mk3 GL running gear on to my Coupe (10.1" / 200mm drums), and going to be upgrading everything in the process (making everything like new). Are powerflex bushings a no-no for the rear beam as well as the rear bushing in the front a-arm? (due to directions of flex) I figure it stands to reason given that's the general consensus for Prothane bushings.

What's the difference between the rear beams? I can't imagine that it's the plus suspension, (so to slightly change the subject) I can't see the front control arms being wider, but if they are, will Mk2 arms fit in the Mk3 rack, and the Mk3 spindle and brakes (ball joint, basically) onto the Mk2 arms? I wish to have Mk3 style rear engine and transmission mounts (VF engineering).

I also can't really decide on coilovers; I want something that'll handle well but not break the bank TOO hard. I'm currently considering ST's w/ Swift springs (perhaps slightly increased in stiffness over stock). It'll get semi-daily use, but for reference my last daily that had coils were PSS9's set to full stiff and I loved it.

Edit: Wheels & Tires shall be 15x7 et28 RPF-1's and 195/50 Star Specs. I'm considering the K-mac caster&camber plates that USRT has currently, other option is Ground Control plates.

This car is to have little to no interior, just chassis stiffening (not going crazy, but trying some ideas out.

[VDub2625]

All Mk3 rear beams seem to be the same width, as for the front, a Mk3 subframe with Mk3 ctrl arms should give you added track over Mk2. But the VR stuff will get you even wider in the front, I think. And even bigger brakes. Though the 10.1s and GL stuff is an upgrade for Mk2.

[naterkane]

To clarify. Though all mk3 rear beams are the same... IIRC they're 12mm wider than a mk2 rear beam.
Mk2 rear sway bars with heim joints typically wont work carry over unless you run longer hardware and a spacer, otherwise the end linkages 'may' be under too much stress.

best,
Nater Kane

[naterkane]

Another thing to note....

Though ball joint extenders and flipping tie rods work great.... they're illegal accorting to SCCA Solo2 rules, unless you want to run in F Street Modified (a class that mk2 vws will never be competetive in) to stay in F Street Prepared, I'd raise the front, run Caster plates and use wobble bolts for camber adjustment.

best,
Nater Kane

[Project_2501]

I appreciate the input, both of you.

I hope I have 100mm drive flanges... I don't wish to muddle this thread up with questions not befitting for it.

Any input on suspension options / offerings? I know there are a few smaller companies making tailor-made options in the $1200-ish range, I'd be willing to make the already >1 year project wait a bit longer for better pay-off in the end...

When / if (hopefully the former) this car ever sees a track it'll be "hey marshall, what class will I run in? sounds good!" and I'll go out and just enjoy the car. I'm not super interested in adhering to a rule-book as I am just doing what I'd like to / feels right and running with it. As-is I'll likely not fit into any reasonable class w/ the cutting I've been doing.

[VDub2625]

I hope I have 100mm drive flanges... I don't wish to muddle this thread up with questions not befitting for it.

Why is that? i honestly never understood the benefit, except maybe they can hold a bit more power. But the cups are easily swappable too.