The only downside to triangulating the rear beam is that fix is 1) permanent and 2) impossible to repair when (not if) the rear beam gets bent.
well just bought the everything i need to do the rear end.Should be doing it the last saturday of the month
it's argumentative. I'll be taking it off next track day in a couple weeks. Only cars faster than us at the Porsche events are the Cup cars.
I want to see the difference between 1) triangulated no sway 2) triangulated sway 3) no triangulation w sway.
Last edited by thepaintcanman; 04-05-2012 at 04:39 PM.
[QUOTE=thepaintcanman;76761851I want to see the difference between 1) triangulated no sway 2) triangulated sway 3) no triangulation w sway.[/QUOTE]
Me too - could you be convinced to post results?
I just picked up a spare rear beam - I'm tempted to have it triangulated but don't want to throw money at it just because it sounds like a good idea.
Then again, it's amusing to read the replies of "Yo, this bar is tight - the car handles so good that it out-turns the Porsches"...who are all slowing down to avoid getting hit by the spinning VW...
What rates are you running in front? I'm running 600# front and 450# rear on a 16v. On an 8v, I could see 450# front and rear although my driving style (or lack thereof) prefers a heavier front spring.
Great thread! Not enough of this in the mk2 forum.
FWITW I got 195/50/15 Dunlop Star specs last year. They did awesome in the dry and heavy wet (the BMWs couldn't catch me in the rain)
A friend gave me some half worn 205/50/15 RA1s...bought myself RPF1s for Xmas....excited and nervous to use them this year. How many warm up laps should I do with the RA1s before I can trust their warm enough?
WTB Tornado Red Mk2 Jetta rear pass door
WTB 16V mk2 Eurosport header
It really depends on how old and how many heat cycles those RA1's have gone through. I can't say for the track, but I had some worn old RA1's that I autocrossed with. Took about 5~6 0:40~0:50 second runs to get the rears up to temp. The fronts would take a couple of runs.
since the plastics themselves aren't very heavy, what about instead moulding some bumper support bars and brackets? (since the euro bumper supports are flimsy as hell and useless for 5mph touching anyway)Originally Posted by thepaintcanman
i know that i'd prefer to just run lighter bumper bars myself over replacing plastic with carbon. in the meantime, there's always drillium.
This is a good read thus far.
I'm swapping Mk3 GL running gear on to my Coupe (10.1" / 200mm drums), and going to be upgrading everything in the process (making everything like new). Are powerflex bushings a no-no for the rear beam as well as the rear bushing in the front a-arm? (due to directions of flex) I figure it stands to reason given that's the general consensus for Prothane bushings.
What's the difference between the rear beams? I can't imagine that it's the plus suspension, (so to slightly change the subject) I can't see the front control arms being wider, but if they are, will Mk2 arms fit in the Mk3 rack, and the Mk3 spindle and brakes (ball joint, basically) onto the Mk2 arms? I wish to have Mk3 style rear engine and transmission mounts (VF engineering).
I also can't really decide on coilovers; I want something that'll handle well but not break the bank TOO hard. I'm currently considering ST's w/ Swift springs (perhaps slightly increased in stiffness over stock). It'll get semi-daily use, but for reference my last daily that had coils were PSS9's set to full stiff and I loved it.
Edit: Wheels & Tires shall be 15x7 et28 RPF-1's and 195/50 Star Specs. I'm considering the K-mac caster&camber plates that USRT has currently, other option is Ground Control plates.
This car is to have little to no interior, just chassis stiffening (not going crazy, but trying some ideas out.
Last edited by Project_2501; 04-08-2012 at 08:06 PM.
All Mk3 rear beams seem to be the same width, as for the front, a Mk3 subframe with Mk3 ctrl arms should give you added track over Mk2. But the VR stuff will get you even wider in the front, I think. And even bigger brakes. Though the 10.1s and GL stuff is an upgrade for Mk2.
To clarify. Though all mk3 rear beams are the same... IIRC they're 12mm wider than a mk2 rear beam.
Mk2 rear sway bars with heim joints typically wont work carry over unless you run longer hardware and a spacer, otherwise the end linkages 'may' be under too much stress.
Another thing to note....
Though ball joint extenders and flipping tie rods work great.... they're illegal accorting to SCCA Solo2 rules, unless you want to run in F Street Modified (a class that mk2 vws will never be competetive in) to stay in F Street Prepared, I'd raise the front, run Caster plates and use wobble bolts for camber adjustment.
I appreciate the input, both of you.
I hope I have 100mm drive flanges... I don't wish to muddle this thread up with questions not befitting for it.
Any input on suspension options / offerings? I know there are a few smaller companies making tailor-made options in the $1200-ish range, I'd be willing to make the already >1 year project wait a bit longer for better pay-off in the end...
When / if (hopefully the former) this car ever sees a track it'll be "hey marshall, what class will I run in? sounds good!" and I'll go out and just enjoy the car. I'm not super interested in adhering to a rule-book as I am just doing what I'd like to / feels right and running with it. As-is I'll likely not fit into any reasonable class w/ the cutting I've been doing.