**** you, Danz. It's not that I can't get the thing to start.
Fellas, check this sheit out!! Maybe some of you western/midwest guys would be interested, this is insane!
i'll just deal with it and daily my super unless my family decides to do something for me for once and get me an mk2 or mk3 jetta.
im just thinking making it drivable and putting chalkboard paint on it just for fun until i completely rebuild it.
champagne taste with a beer budget.
so I've been having a ticking noise for the last few hundred miles, adjusted the valves, but it came back after another 50 miles or so. Took the rocker arms off today and the vale lash caps are pretty worn out .... could that cause it ? I've never had lash caps on my stockers before
Hi! 71 ,
Make sure you don't have a cracked or broken shaft saddle(#16)
Make sure you don't have a broken Cclip(#20) or wavy washer(#19) if you don't have solid rocker shafts
which should be securely(red Loctited ) bolted at the ends .
Those'd be possible lateral alignment problems .
For vertical alignment problems if you're running a hotter cam you'd need to check the valve geometry http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&b...w=1280&bih=806 or general search "geometry" on http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/smf/index.php .
Make sure you don't have bent pushrods(#3) which continue to bend more & more as you adjust them tighter more & more:
Pull 'em out 1 by 1 & mark each for it's placement with a Sharpie,then just roll 'em over a known flat surface to check for any wobble .
While the rocker assemblies are off grab the valve retainers(#36) and try to rock those in any opposing directions on a clock face
12 to 6 shown here,do 1 to 7.....etc to make sure you aren't looseing a valve seat or wearing out a guide in the head(= rebuild the heads) .
One of the other things that causes the valves to appear increasingly looser is just that there's some head studs pulling outta the engine case(= rebuild the whole engine) .
You can reverify most of this with either a commpression http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&b...-8&sa=N&tab=iw &/or leakdown http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&b...w=1280&bih=806 test before rippin' & tearin' everything apart.
Or ,ya just didn't tighten down the locknuts on the adjusting screws enough .
Something here's gonna click the ticket bro
Thanks for all that
I have solid shaft rockers with the CB 9mm adjusters on it. I realized yesterday after posting this that I had replaced 2 adjusters (they just broke !) and guess what the two I replaced (#3/4 exhaust valves) are the two that the valve caps are worn out bad, I wonder if it had to do with the fact I put new adjusters.
I checked the rocker shaft and arms and they all look good. I did the valve geometry when we put these heads on, measured and cut and marked each pushrod. I did have the #3 exhaust pushrod wear a groove on the lifter side, nothing really bad but it's there so I will re-install it the other way around to see if it wears like that again. They were all straight when I checked them yesterday.
On the valve retainers, when I rock them back and forth what am I looking for ? Just a loose retainer ? Head studs (well the ones that are accessible when engine is in the car) were all tight.
I got my compression tester out yesterday but haven't checked it yet, I'm going to put it all back together and do it
One thing I was told by a friend who also had a similar problem was ovaled-out lifter bores ..... I hope it's not that !
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifie...php?id=1179758 what's wrong with this picture? and located in Brazil but the dudes in Spain?.....Bus is beautiful though
No movement on retainers, I did pull out all the pushrods again and one is definitely bent Don't know how I didn't notice it yesterday !
Also went around to the 1/2 side and the 1 exhaust pushrod didn't want to come out, like it was catching on something.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&b...1992l6-1.1l2l0 or just a large screwdriver stetho
to try to isolate whether the clicking is coming from the head or from within the engine case.
A bent pushrod generally indicates an over resistance to full valvetrain free movement by something binding within the head,but since you're now having problems with just the exhaust valves on both sides that'd pretty much indicate a failure of the cam bearings inside the case, = cam's waggin' from side to side .
You can check that before hopefully not having to crack the case open by just removing the heads & using 2 screwdrivers to play the #'s1&3 then #'s2&4 exhaust cam followers against each other through the case openings for those pushrod tubes to see if you get side-to-side movement of the cam.
No movement there = you just need to rethink your geometry because the valves are hitting the tops of the pistons @ high RPM's(& now probably bent also) or the rockers are too tight on their shafts.
I hope I'm wrong bro .
Last edited by 4supreme2gambino0; 08-19-2011 at 03:45 PM.
Sorry Justin all those thread are locked or deleted.. Our boy Gaybino had a rough intorduction to the air cooled forum mostly stemming from him being overly sensative to also owning a cabby.. His skin had grown thick over the past couple of months as we have all bonded together battling the tyranical reign of the dreaded cow finger..
RIP 1.9L Lysholm Corrado (I8AVR6) and your Turbo charged sister (TRBRADO) 68 Baja and 64 slammed standard. Too many GTi's to count..