Suction pump DIY **w/ pix**

[Slimjimmn]

I haven't seen any writeups on replacing a suction pump on a 1.8t so here goes.

I was having some issues with cold start misfires. Then I was getting limp mode and check engine light no more than 5psi. Codes were for cyl 1/2 misfires, random misfires, system too lean, turbo throttle valve pressure drop. I have new coils, plugs, all new pcv system, no vacuum leaks I can find. At idle I had 16-18" vacuum and when you depress the brake pedal a couple times it would stumble some. Anyway, went to VW and bought the new "D" style suction pump and some extra hoses attached to it.
058-133-753D pump
06A-133-784P "c" shaped hose
06A-133-783AS other hose that goes to intake
you will need plenty of hose clamps so make sure you have the right sized ones.

Just a note, the pump should not have pressure blown through it and have pressure come out both nipples at the same time, only one nipple should have pressure come out. If both come out it has failed internally.

First take off engine covers if you have them. Next remove the 2 10mm nuts that hold the secondary air hose to the valve bracket and unclip hose and pull to the side next to throttle body. Next remove the 10mm nut that holds the other secondary air hose to the underside of the valve bracket, its right in the middle.

pic of the hose with the 10mm nut you take off


Next remove the 2 5mm allen bolts that hold the bracket to the intake manifold and pull up and away to separate it from the dipstick funnel. Unplug the solenoid here. (note this is a good time to replace the dipstick funnel if its broken, which it most likely is)


Next pull the bracket to the side and pull the small vacuum hose off the intake nipple.


Remove the pcv hose from the nipple and push aside. The suction pump is there, the "y" thing.


Next up top, cut off this hose clamp and pull the hose out, it will be stuck a little, it holds vacuum in the brake booster.


Next under the intake remove the hose from the other side of the dipstick funnel, this hose goes to the suction pump. Also remove this hose and clamp, it goes to the smaller port on the "y" part of the pump.


The assembly should be fully loose now, so just fenangle it out, usually the last part out is the big plastic hose that goes through the intake manifold runners. Once out it looks like this.


New one assembled.


Once all the new stuff is together make sure the angles and what not are the same or it will flex the rubber hoses too much and fail prematurely. Install is the same as removal, just use new clamps and you will be good to go.
After installing my vacuum at idle is now 20" when cold. Turbo spools a little quicker and it seems to hold boost better. I put my ecs n75 race valve back in and still need to test drive it. I know I need new boost hoses and a silicone TIP to be good to go, but I also need front brakes, downpipe (thats cracked) and full exhaust.

[manyDUBs]

Do you have a pic of the failure point?

Thanks

[l88m22vette]

Here is how I fixed mine



Seriously though, nice write-up

[Slimjimmn]

Do you have a pic of the failure point?

Thanks

it failed internally. It would not hold vacuum.

[Dub Ken]

I thought it was standard procedure to shítcan emissions stuff in this forum when they fail.

Great info for those looking to keep a factory-built engine.

[travis_gli]

I thought it was standard procedure to shítcan emissions stuff in this forum when they fail.

Great info for those looking to keep a factory-built engine.

When you're in a state that won't allow you to pass emissions unless this stuff is present it doesn't work that way. Good write up!

[l88m22vette]

^ The only way they know is by having a CEL, no way an inspection agent is going to go hunting around for specific pieces in the dozens of types of cars out there...

[travis_gli]

^ The only way they know is by having a CEL, no way an inspection agent is going to go hunting around for specific pieces in the dozens of types of cars out there...

The inspection machine checks for readiness. So no they don't just look for a CEL.

[Slimjimmn]

And if u live in pa, they do safety inspections

[Levi20AE]

I have a Uni MAFless file with all the readiness codes set and the suction pump is causing a boost leak when I charge the system to ~20psi with a leak tester. When you remove the suction pump are you putting a T in it's place or what other plumbing are you removing along with it? I don't have a problem passing a visual inspection and the software takes care of the rest.

[Slimjimmn]

if you were to delete the pump, just put inline a vacuum T at that point, but I dont know where you can find such a large T, its about 1/2" i think

[Dub Ken]

The inspection machine checks for readiness. So no they don't just look for a CEL.

Easily remedied with software edit which forces readiness.

[Slimjimmn]

Easily remedied with software edit which forces readiness.

or slip the tester a 50 and your golden...

[boostingti4ever]

or slip the tester a 50 and your golden...

this^ only thing that passes readiness is a/c

[powdercrazy]

good write-up

[manyDUBs]

I removed mine and now I get a CEL

[travis_gli]

this^ only thing that passes readiness is a/c

from my understanding those results get sent in to the state... so I'm not sure how he's slipping you stickers.

I removed mine and now I get a CEL

Improper flow? If so there's not much you can do unless you get it coded out of the ECU. While your doing that you might as well get the readiness monitors coded as well. Only problem with all that is if your using an APR ecu or another software vendor that encrypts their software whoever is attempting to code everything out may not be able to.

[Slimjimmn]

on a side note, use the right f-en hoses. I bought the incorrect hose that goes to the intake manifold "h" and the correct one was "as". Took about 2 weeks of driving for the hose to break off and make my car run like poo.

[dconfusion]

Hi guys, i have and 1.8T 25th anniv engine code AUQ, and i purchased a new suction pump by the reference that is in the post (058-133-753D), but searching in ETKA i've noticed that for my engine the suction pump part number are diferent than the current on this post (for AUQ engine code: 06A-133-751AE), can any one tell me diferences in them?

If i install the one that is in the thread will work fine, or i have to change it with a new one?

[Slimjimmn]

Post a pic

[cutchins]

Why not replace only the suction pump and keep the original hoses?

[Slimjimmn]

they were all rotted out and cracked anyway

contemplating a catch can setup and ditching the whole pcv setup now.

[cutchins]

they were all rotted out and cracked anyway

contemplating a catch can setup and ditching the whole pcv setup now.

What are the benefits of a catch can setup vs the pcv?

[Slimjimmn]

pcv oil and vapor goes into catch can, not the intake/intercooler. Only downside is in colder climates, if the can isnt emptied say weekly, sometimes the water vapor separates and freezes then when you start your car- Kapoweeeeee, can blows up lol

Plus its hard to find a spot to install one on a mk4 that is easy to service.

[Slimjimmn]

bump, because I see so many people asking questions every week on pcv stuff

[VOLKSGLI]

Car is on stands now and i.m in the middle of deleting everything except the PCV. Just waiting for SAI Plate and resistors from IE.

[Slimjimmn]

for IE. I got my plate from them along with the resistor plugs


for keeping the pcv

[Slimjimmn]

bumpski
no FAQ yet?

[Twopnt016v]

What system would that that effect readiness wise?

[Slimjimmn]

What system would that that effect readiness wise?

None.

[radlynx]

In short, do not use catch can to avoid weekly clean up.

pcv oil and vapor goes into catch can, not the intake/intercooler. Only downside is in colder climates, if the can isnt emptied say weekly, sometimes the water vapor separates and freezes then when you start your car- Kapoweeeeee, can blows up lol

Plus its hard to find a spot to install one on a mk4 that is easy to service.

[Shamrock]

from my understanding those results get sent in to the state... so I'm not sure how he's slipping you stickers.



Improper flow? If so there's not much you can do unless you get it coded out of the ECU. While your doing that you might as well get the readiness monitors coded as well. Only problem with all that is if your using an APR ecu or another software vendor that encrypts their software whoever is attempting to code everything out may not be able to.

Maestro Works for me