Bariman82's 1998 Jetta restoration

[builtvw]

nice. wish i could pick up another car so i could do this to my car

[Juggy]

Out of all the rusty areas I got you beat, this one is where I'm ok, but the area where I have to repair is where the inner wheel well meets thefiller hole. I'll be cutting that area out a replacing it, but was thinking of fiber glass. Not sure yet but I too have been putting this off due to it being the trickiest bit.

[Juggy]

Did you disconnect your fuel lines when u dropped ur tank, someone said you can drop the tank without unhooking the lines.

[Bariman82]

No, you don't have to disconnect the lines from the tank when you remove it. I disconnected them from the fuel rail, pulled them through and out it all came.

[Juggy]

No, you don't have to disconnect the lines from the tank when you remove it. I disconnected them from the fuel rail, pulled them through and out it all came.

Fuel Rail? Meaning from the engine bay you pulled them all the way through?

Wasn't planning on doing all that.

[Bariman82]

Yes. You can drop the tank and push it over to the side, though. Just be careful with the lines. You either disconnect them at the tank or the fuel rail.

[Thunderwolf78]

Well, since posting my question I've been under my car and had a real good look at the fuel tank so now I don't need a picture of that, the picture of the wheel well and the hole in it gives me an idea of what mine looks like, the metal around the filler neck is completely rusted away and it's just a small part where the screws for the flap hinge that's not completely gone yet... This will become most interesting indeed...

A small advice on welding the outer sheet back in(rear wing of car), make a strip of sheet steel and weld it to the body of the car and then put the outer pieces of the filler cap back onto that, tack it in and then fill up the space between the body of the car and the newly welded filler cap/flap piece with filler(sorry, don't have the correct vocabulary for everything technical in english since I'm swedish)... If I beat you to it, I'll make sure to post you some pictures, ok?

Thanks for the pictures you've shared, they help a lot!

[Bariman82]

Your English is fine. I understand what you mean.

I like your idea with the strip of metal behind the body. The extra metal might prevent burning through, which is something I've struggled with. My repair won't be pretty, but it will be rust free.

[Slayer]

Hah, cool thread.. going to be doing this on my 95 Gti at some point

[Bariman82]

Hah, cool thread.. going to be doing this on my 95 Gti at some point

[Bariman82]

Busy busy. I have the rear beam and backing plates blasted, POR'd and assembled with new stub axles. New bushings going in this weekend. I just did them 15,000 miles ago, but they're cracked already.


Floor, trunk and backseat etched.




Paint!






Pedal cluster, booster and new master cylinder are in too.

I still have to POR the rear wheelwells in order to get the suspension on. The Metal Ready is really making a mess in my garage on these larger areas. I'd like to get the car in the driveway so I can do the underside. Which brings me to suspension. A top-to-bottom suspension replacement is around $600 from GAP. Man, if anything gets you thinking about coils, THAT would be it. Let's see what my next paycheck brings. I've got one lowered car already...I'm not sure I want another. I know the answer is always to lower it, but what do you think? I would only consider good coils (H&R, B&G) because ride is more important.

[Insan3Vr6]

Nice. I like checking this thread every once and awhile. Still doing good work

As far as suspension. You don't HAVE to get coilovers to have a good ride. If you aren't really in to having another lowered car, I would suggest a good cupkit. Ride height is lower, obviously, but not to where most people spin their coils down, and the ride isn't the bouncy mess that cheap coils are.

For the record, my other GTI with a full Weitec 60/40 rode SO much nicer than my current JOM coils. Ride height was nice looking, and I really didn't have to worry about swerving all over the road to avoid the smallest crap. Just my experience.

All depends on what you really want for the car and of course, how much $$ in your pockets

[Bariman82]

I want it to be comfortable to drive and ride in for my passengers, as close to stock as possible. I'm not into having it look a certain way or scoring internet points with it. I think I just answered my own question.

[Insan3Vr6]

I want it to be comfortable to drive and ride in for my passengers, as close to stock as possible. I'm not into having it look a certain way or scoring internet points with it. I think I just answered my own question.

Sounds like it to me. Get some fresh OEM's on there and call it a day

[leecatd8209]

This is just insane, but I love it. I've restored quite a few legitimately collectible vehicles before, but I've never gotten this wrapped up in a "daily".

Your welds are really progressing, I still run into some of my old work every once in awhile and sometimes it's enough to make me cringe.

[Bariman82]

This is just insane, but I love it. I've restored quite a few legitimately collectible vehicles before, but I've never gotten this wrapped up in a "daily".

Your welds are really progressing, I still run into some of my old work every once in awhile and sometimes it's enough to make me cringe.

Believe me, I think about that all the time. Next time, if there is one, I'll do this to a vehicle that will actually have some value when I get done. Nonetheless, it's been fun. I wasn't ready to junk it.

I was so ashamed of one particular patch that I went back months later and redid it. The welding is almost done...I think.

[heerschap]

awesome work! you will pretty much have a brand new car when your done. lots of valuable info here too.

[mhjett]

Busy busy. I have the rear beam and backing plates blasted, POR'd and assembled with new stub axles. New bushings going in this weekend. I just did them 15,000 miles ago, but they're cracked already.

...

A top-to-bottom suspension replacement is around $600 from GAP. Man, if anything gets you thinking about coils, THAT would be it. Let's see what my next paycheck brings. I've got one lowered car already...I'm not sure I want another. I know the answer is always to lower it, but what do you think? I would only consider good coils (H&R, B&G) because ride is more important.

Just an FYI, but if you ordered your rear beam bushings from GAP - I've had bad luck with getting some non-OEM parts from GAP that didn't last worth a damn. For example, tie rod ends where boots cracked prematurely, parking brake cable boots that rotted in 9 months, etc. GAP used to be my go-to place, but I've now put more effort into making sure the stuff I buy is genuine OEM and not Chinese-made or some other crap.

[Bariman82]

The new rear axle bushings are from AutohausAZ, as is most of my recent round of parts. Rear strut bearings, rear springs, front spring perches are from GAP this time, and the rubber parts all say 'Made in Germany.' I've read complaints about GAP from people, but my experience has been great with them. Nonetheless, I am shifting my purchases to AZ when I can.

Meanwhile, work continues. I'll try to get something worth updating this weekend.

[Thunderwolf78]

Nice seeing your progress Bariman!
I took a few steps towards mine today by visiting the junkyard with my friends Mr Sawsall and Mr Ratchet. This netted me two much better looking rear fender liners(dunno the correct word, I'm sure you get what I mean anyway) of which the right one included the oh-so feared gas filler mayhem in quite good condition compared to mine(which is now see-through to the ground!) and three better-than-mine tank bands... Next week will be devoted to this "cheapo-restoration" of my car... I can't say I'm looking forward to it but it has to be done so I'll suck it up and fix the thing.

Thanks for the inspiration from your restoration!

[Bariman82]

You are more than welcome. I just got back from the junkyard myself. I took Mr. Cutoff Wheel. Also, my car is pristine compared to some of those hulks in there. Sheesh. Rusty piles...

[E-RustBox'er]

This is a serious restoration job.
I wish I lived close by so I can come over and check that car out...
Great job.

[Bariman82]

Where you at? I have burgers and homebrew.

[Thunderwolf78]

I've started stripping things off from my car today... Let's keep it simple by saying "OUCHIES!", both whole sides where the rear skirt mounts to(the sheet wings pointing downwards) are goners and I won't rebuild them, I'll cut them off and improvise new mounts from threaded rod or something similar... ugh I say, this will be one hell of a week... Your car is in mint condition compared to mine.

[Bariman82]

I'm confused. Which location are you referring to?

[E-RustBox'er]

Where you at? I have burgers and homebrew.

I'm in California and I'm impressed for all the work you've done to your almost junk-rusted car. You're going to have an almost brand new car there when you're done.

CHeers

[Bariman82]

Thanks for the thoughts. That's the plan and I'm stickin to it.

[Mk3vr97]

Awesome progress man

[LucidDisarray]

God Damn!

I have some serious catching up to do

Looks great

[Bariman82]

Hey, nice to see you again! Yes, you do. I've been busy.

[Thunderwolf78]

I'm confused. Which location are you referring to?

The sheet/pinch welded thingies that run from the rear wheel wells all the way back to the rear end of the car, inside the plastic rear bumper/skirt. The ones that facilitate mounts for the skirt/bumper... They are completely rusted away on my car.

I'll fire up a thread of my own right next to yours I think, just gonna get todays worth of pictures onto my computer... I've fixed that dang fuel filler cap first of all, now all I need to do is find a **** oscillating sander, sanding it all by hand is... awful at best.

Here's my thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...vier-than-rust...

[bherman13]

Well holy crap. In the time it took me to read through this thread, it has scared me about what my lurk in my car ('99 mk3 GLX), taught me a few things about my own, inspired me to make plans to do this once I graduate, then lose faith in the fact that it doesn't seem worth it to me personally, only to wish/hope I someday have the shop and tools to do this to a car I love just for the fun of it. Overall though, I have gained much respect for you and I cannot wait to watch it all come back together. I hope you enjoy your nearly brand-new mk3 that can last for decades more now.

Also, I'm glad the part of Illinois I live in is much farther south than you and there is much much less snow here during the winter (comparatively).

[Mex gti]

I feel ashamed i can´t even give my car a tune-up. Fantastic work, keep it up!

['dubber]

I'll bet that those rear bearings weren't tightened in correctly, or weren't packed well if at all with good grease. Get some coastal moly or some mobil1 synthetic grease and hand pack them even if they come greased. Then you want to follow the bentley install instructions because there is a process to install the nut before putting in the cotter pin. Then check the free play of the bearing every so often by grabbing top and bottom of jacked up tire and pushing and pulling it towards and away from you. There should be ***slight*** play.

[Bariman82]

Well holy crap. In the time it took me to read through this thread, it has scared me about what my lurk in my car ('99 mk3 GLX), taught me a few things about my own, inspired me to make plans to do this once I graduate, then lose faith in the fact that it doesn't seem worth it to me personally, only to wish/hope I someday have the shop and tools to do this to a car I love just for the fun of it. Overall though, I have gained much respect for you and I cannot wait to watch it all come back together. I hope you enjoy your nearly brand-new mk3 that can last for decades more now.

Also, I'm glad the part of Illinois I live in is much farther south than you and there is much much less snow here during the winter (comparatively).

Thanks. It's been fun, actually. It depends on how bad it is and how bad you want to keep it. I take my notes from the mk1 guys, some of who have rotted out rear beam bracket mounts. I would scrap a car over that, but some like to fix it. Some would scrap my car here, but I like to fix it.

I feel ashamed i can´t even give my car a tune-up. Fantastic work, keep it up!

Well, start with little things. Oil and filter is a great place to begin. Then try the spark plugs. Before long, you'll move up to brakes and maybe rear wheel bearings. It won't happen overnight, but start with easy things to build your confidence up.

I'll bet that those rear bearings weren't tightened in correctly, or weren't packed well if at all with good grease. Get some coastal moly or some mobil1 synthetic grease and hand pack them even if they come greased. Then you want to follow the bentley install instructions because there is a process to install the nut before putting in the cotter pin. Then check the free play of the bearing every so often by grabbing top and bottom of jacked up tire and pushing and pulling it towards and away from you. There should be ***slight*** play.

The problem I had was with the rear beam rubber bushings, not the wheel bearings. And yes, I screwed up the install of them. I did trash a rear wheel bearing (and almost the stub axle) last year when I thought it would be safe to leave the dust cap off. Oops.