Here is the list of details on my mishaps on saturday night.
Drove 30 miles out to long island to go to sonic with no incident
Drove 30 miles back to queens and had no incident
Drove 10 miles around queens and all was well until I was about 10 minutes from home and the car started revving to 1100 rpm. Now the interesting thing was the car didn't lurch, well more like didn't lurch any more than normal. When I pressed the accelerator it raised the rpms to about 1500 and then started moving. Get to the next light back to 600 rpm, 30 seconds before moving it shoots back up to 1100. Did this 3 more times.
Then back to normal so odd.
Candy White 2008 .:R32 #4804
A lot of the new problems MK V R32s are starting to experience may be old problems to MK IV R3s.
I remembered this old thread, went searching for it and actually found it
Post #8 mentions an old battery being the culprit, making the alternator work overtime, thus raising the idle, and post #19 shows a bad wire link in the box above the battery.
Hope this helps.
Thanks again everyone. I checked my battery connections in the rear and front, air intake box, and floormat (knew it wasn't this, but what the hell). Nothing was loose as far as I could see. Didn't drive much this weekend, but it did happen once, then didn't another time. Consistent again this morning. Got video again, but after it was already idling high, and with crappy settings. Will try again tonight.
At least I can have the shop first check the battery/voltage and for any vacuum leaks as these seem like the 2 likely culprits.
Both ways to work today R ran flawlessly, idled at 650 rpm like a rock, no hint of issue.
So without checking battery box connections, problem was vacuum leak at CAI connectors.
Of course now that I say this it'll probably do it tomorrow to make a liar out of me!
P.S. the 39 psi certainly improved the ride/handling and pleasure of dRiving again.
You can do whatever you want to the suspension, but stock is perfect unless tracking, just amazing.
(Can you tell I did a 90+ entrance ramp blast onto the Greenway today? ? I only did it because there was a WRX up my a** going in - at the exit of the ramp - 100 deg turn, he was 20 cars back.
He either didn't bring enough car or driving skills..... he did a flyby and thumbs up on the highway.)
No animals or guard rails were threatened in this incident, used S with TC off, no rear drift as 90 wasn't fast enough to upset the R, fun watching him slide out to the left white line in the mirror though.
I love this car!!!!
I think I'm believing the battery opinion since my car seems to take longer to start now plus I have a stock airbox and my lines look fine
UPDATE: well checked my battery, looks good with the green dot, checked connections and seemed fine, still at a loss
Last edited by GoVdubSPEEDGo; 08-23-2011 at 09:38 PM.
Whoever appeals to the law against his fellow man is either a fool or a coward. Whoever cannot take care of himself without that law is both. For a wounded man shall say to his assailant, "If I Die, You are forgiven. If I Live, I will kill you." Such is the Rule of Honor.
so when that happens what goin on with the engine? ie is it cold/ hot all the time, has it been idling for a long period of time? if it does it after idling for a period of time i could be like a evap system running/ purging and there is a fault with that system. if you have a vag- try running the evap test.
2014 F150 fx4
One note is that it doesn't happen immediately after starting. IE, the first few stops it won't happen, but once it does, it will happen again at each long stop for the rest of the drive (even after 2-3 hours of highway driving).
I am getting the sub-frame bolts replaced next week and will have the dealership investigate the following things based upon feedback in this thread:
I need to keep this limited as this issue is a black box to the shop, even if they can reproduce it in a tech test drive and I will be charged for diagnosis time.
And just to note again, I have no mods except a disconnected and plugged flapper vacuum tube and AFE panel lifetime air filter. All maintenance should be up to date AFAIK.
^ No, increase in idle speed is very audible and adds vibration when it happens, (at least to me).
OK 1 small item I left out, I added 6 oz's of Marvel Mystery Oil when I fixed the loose CAI clamps and checked the connections under the hood.
Probably not important, but I run it thru the fuel system about once/month, (3 tanks/month is all I use normally). I've used this stuff since I started driving, (46 years ago) at my dad's advice, always keeps the fuel system pretty clean & haven't ever had an issue with any vehicle....
personal experience, you may not care!
As of today, running perfectly, not a hint of anything, I even tried tapping the accelerator pedal at 4 stops in a row to trigger it - Nothing, dead steady 650 rpm idle is back.
I firmly believe it's a vacuum leak in my case, but all other hypothesis are legitimate possibilities guys....
I'm giving the R to the lead footed test driver tomorrow - (wife) and she if she can trigger it....
I will be driving Das Boost, which now has a license plate frame that says that!
Always a surprise to drive 310 ft lbs after the R... sudden wheelspin is not part of the r life....
I'll just add again that for me, it only happens after I've parked outside all day...never after leaving from my garage.
Luckily, it seems to have gone away again on its own...for now.
If your gas cap light comes on even if you think you tightened the cap, try pulling on the cap as you tighten it. Worked for me.
Help us with suspension specs!
Vag Evolution: MkI Rabbit -> MkII 16v GTI -> B5 S4/MkV .:R32