Here is a little A/C teaser
As for wire, SXL or TXL or GXL are good wires to use. The insulation on these is cross-linked PVC, very similar to the stock wire if not identical. Stay away from regular PVC wire (GPL) because it doesn't have a very high temp rating, and it will burn/melt instead of just bubbling like cross-linked PVC. I used all teflon insulated wire, which is more expensive and harder to work with but comes with a higher temp rating.
Any tips on separating the wiring harness engine wiring from the lights/other? Since I'm doing a swap I don't need the engine part and wanted to simplify the harness as much as possible. Me being dumb and not thinking about it disconnected all the plugs from the motor without labeling them first because I wasn't planning on reusing the harness. Now I have to go to a junkyard and pull a harness and label each connector so I know what goes to what so I can delete what I wont be using.
BTW is for a 2.0 engine harness
I spread the harness out on the floor and removed all the wrapping. I can not for the life of me figure out how you get some of the wires untangled. It looks like the only way is cutting and splicing back together or removing the pins from the connectors and putting them back...or am I just missing something?
Seems like Afazz is the man when it comes to shaving. You and a few others should start prefabbing them. Chase bays seems to only be for the jdm crowd. You'd make a killing if you did. It's my way of saying. I'm to lazy to one myself. But I did order a inline coolant filler cap. To delete the bubble. I'll post pics when I get it all set up.
I just stumbled on to this site. http://braunstadt.com/lugtronic/node/16
Not sure how they are doing their harnesses and/or if they are lengthened to be hidden or anything. Maybe something to look into? It kind of looks like you have to use their ecu, but maybe you could just snip off the ecu end and wire it into the stock ecu? For $500-600 its not a bad deal and appears to be made out of quality materials.
quick question while reading threw this thread someone said that the passat vr6 engine harness is longer then the vr6 gti harness and you do not have to lengthen it to tuck wires. If thats true why do people go about wasting their time lengthening the gti harness if you can just go get a passat harness and use that? that's just from what i read idk myself but i was asking also because i have a passat harness. thank you sweet thread tho
If you're referring to the fan control module, i'd suggest first and foremost ditching the stock VR fans and going with dual slim fans and a shroud if you can. The shroud will only maximize your fan efficiency. i believe my fans are Flex-a-lite or Derale. Mounted on the engine side of my mishimoto radiator and they run as 'pushing' fans. I believe a 10" and 12" both fit. I have clearance issues with my short runner intake
As for the wiring maybe someone more knowledgeable can speak on it, but essentially you just wire the fans in to run off the relay/fan switch. Mine currently are either off or run in full mode. I deleted my AC, so that fan control module also has additional wiring for the AC fan controls.
Been awhile, so excuse me if I am incorrect in any of this.
You can remove the FCM, all its wiring, ect, which gets rid of almost 1/4 of the bays wiring.
This is my entire fan wiring setup. It is easily hidden, and uses the stock fan/fanswitch.
He seems to be speaking of the heater core though, which most people with shaved bays don't run anymore. It takes ALOT more work to do it "right" and have full functionality. (Ala Afazz. )
Easier to weld a flat plate over the frame rail to get rid of all the holes and for later body work/paint or fill the holes in the frame rail and then body work those? I dont care about that lip that sticks up, Im not going for a full shave but I dont want to leave open holes and crap that won't be used.
You will need some form of overflow if it is a daily.
The O2 you can probably ditch if you really wanted to, but crank and knock sensors *will* get grumpy without the shield if they're anywhere near a plug or coil wire.
1995 GTI VR6 - 12.90@106 R32 power - 12.833@106 12v power
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I thought this conversation was familiar; we discussed this over PMs back in 6/2010. The shielding in my car was not tied to ground, the ground twisted with the O2/crank/knock sensors is not a shield. I have run my motor since then, it seemed to run fine from idle through redline but not under load (just running, not driving). If there was a signal noise issue, wouldn't it stall or stumble at some point through the rev range even free-revving?