.:Shaved Bay Information Resource Thread:.

[Afazz]

Afazz -- for extending wires, do you recommend a specific type of wire? I know some wires you need to be careful with because using improper wire wont shield it enough and yuo can get interference. Let me know, I need to extend my MAF plug, ISV, IAT

The only shielded wires I found were the O2 sensor, crank position sensor, and knock sensor. Even those didn't seem to be truly shielded; they were wrapped with some busted ass foil insulation, but neither end was tied to ground. As long as your electrical connections are good and the splice is waterproof, you should be fine extending the MAF, ISV, and IAT.

As for wire, SXL or TXL or GXL are good wires to use. The insulation on these is cross-linked PVC, very similar to the stock wire if not identical. Stay away from regular PVC wire (GPL) because it doesn't have a very high temp rating, and it will burn/melt instead of just bubbling like cross-linked PVC. I used all teflon insulated wire, which is more expensive and harder to work with but comes with a higher temp rating.

[Afazz]

Here is a little A/C teaser

[harlequin80]

Any tips on separating the wiring harness engine wiring from the lights/other? Since I'm doing a swap I don't need the engine part and wanted to simplify the harness as much as possible. Me being dumb and not thinking about it disconnected all the plugs from the motor without labeling them first because I wasn't planning on reusing the harness. Now I have to go to a junkyard and pull a harness and label each connector so I know what goes to what so I can delete what I wont be using.

BTW is for a 2.0 engine harness

[harlequin80]

I spread the harness out on the floor and removed all the wrapping. I can not for the life of me figure out how you get some of the wires untangled. It looks like the only way is cutting and splicing back together or removing the pins from the connectors and putting them back...or am I just missing something?

[RUDE337]

Seems like Afazz is the man when it comes to shaving. You and a few others should start prefabbing them. Chase bays seems to only be for the jdm crowd. You'd make a killing if you did. It's my way of saying. I'm to lazy to one myself. But I did order a inline coolant filler cap. To delete the bubble. I'll post pics when I get it all set up.

[inertpyro]

I just stumbled on to this site. http://braunstadt.com/lugtronic/node/16
Not sure how they are doing their harnesses and/or if they are lengthened to be hidden or anything. Maybe something to look into? It kind of looks like you have to use their ecu, but maybe you could just snip off the ecu end and wire it into the stock ecu? For $500-600 its not a bad deal and appears to be made out of quality materials.

[AsWeFlyBy]

That would be Mr. Kevin Black's web site. He is a long time VW/Audi tuner. Those of you who know him know of his high quality work.

Great thread btw

[CasuallyWreckless]

there is a product called all metal dont use bondo if u actually drive the heat will crack it over time, all metal is kinda like bondo just a lil tip the street rod guys at work showed me

[BlueDevilCabby]

there is a product called all metal dont use bondo if u actually drive the heat will crack it over time, all metal is kinda like bondo just a lil tip the street rod guys at work showed me

Plenty of people have used "bondo" without any issues so I highly doubt your statement, although all-metal is a good product.

[inertpyro]

Plenty of people have used "bondo" without any issues so I highly doubt your statement, although all-metal is a good product.

I agree, your engine bay will be just as hot as a black car sitting out in the sun on a hot day. Not to mention street rods are going to have much larger, hotter engines in them. All metal it some good stuff though, I've used it in a few places, the resin activator stuff is kind of messy though. I would just get a good Evercoat body filler and you should be good.

[JohnStamos]

That would be Mr. Kevin Black's web site. He is a long time VW/Audi tuner. Those of you who know him know of his high quality work.

And that is a screaming deal for the harness.

[deadtofall89]

quick question while reading threw this thread someone said that the passat vr6 engine harness is longer then the vr6 gti harness and you do not have to lengthen it to tuck wires. If thats true why do people go about wasting their time lengthening the gti harness if you can just go get a passat harness and use that? that's just from what i read idk myself but i was asking also because i have a passat harness. thank you sweet thread tho

[skidplate]

I just stumbled on to this site. http://braunstadt.com/lugtronic/node/16
Not sure how they are doing their harnesses and/or if they are lengthened to be hidden or anything. Maybe something to look into? It kind of looks like you have to use their ecu, but maybe you could just snip off the ecu end and wire it into the stock ecu? For $500-600 its not a bad deal and appears to be made out of quality materials.

"The Custom Harness uses the inexpensive Wire-In ECU, and replaces your entire engine harness."
http://braunstadt.com/lugtronic/node/14

[harlequin80]

Holy ****, $1600-2000 for the harness/ecu......

Ill take my chances on separating and lengthening my own harness haha

[fastmaxxcooper]

whats everyone doing for the heater assembly in terms of mounting it to somewhere besides the firewall. any proven method?

[inertpyro]

"The Custom Harness uses the inexpensive Wire-In ECU, and replaces your entire engine harness."
http://braunstadt.com/lugtronic/node/14

Yes I seen that but you in theory could just snip off the end that plugs into the not so inexpensive ECU and rewire it to the OEM ecu. It would cut out 90% of the work making the rest of the harness.

[pubahs]

whats everyone doing for the heater assembly in terms of mounting it to somewhere besides the firewall. any proven method?

Define heater assembly?

If you're referring to the fan control module, i'd suggest first and foremost ditching the stock VR fans and going with dual slim fans and a shroud if you can. The shroud will only maximize your fan efficiency. i believe my fans are Flex-a-lite or Derale. Mounted on the engine side of my mishimoto radiator and they run as 'pushing' fans. I believe a 10" and 12" both fit. I have clearance issues with my short runner intake

As for the wiring maybe someone more knowledgeable can speak on it, but essentially you just wire the fans in to run off the relay/fan switch. Mine currently are either off or run in full mode. I deleted my AC, so that fan control module also has additional wiring for the AC fan controls.

Been awhile, so excuse me if I am incorrect in any of this.

[JohnStamos]

Define heater assembly?

If you're referring to the fan control module, i'd suggest first and foremost ditching the stock VR fans and going with dual slim fans and a shroud if you can. The shroud will only maximize your fan efficiency. i believe my fans are Flex-a-lite or Derale. Mounted on the engine side of my mishimoto radiator and they run as 'pushing' fans. I believe a 10" and 12" both fit. I have clearance issues with my short runner intake

As for the wiring maybe someone more knowledgeable can speak on it, but essentially you just wire the fans in to run off the relay/fan switch. Mine currently are either off or run in full mode. I deleted my AC, so that fan control module also has additional wiring for the AC fan controls.

Been awhile, so excuse me if I am incorrect in any of this.

You can remove the FCM, all its wiring, ect, which gets rid of almost 1/4 of the bays wiring.


This is my entire fan wiring setup. It is easily hidden, and uses the stock fan/fanswitch.




He seems to be speaking of the heater core though, which most people with shaved bays don't run anymore. It takes ALOT more work to do it "right" and have full functionality. (Ala Afazz. )

[pubahs]

i've been contemplating removing mine as well.. to delete the hoses going to it. I only kept it in the event the windows get foggy

[harlequin80]

Debating.....

Easier to weld a flat plate over the frame rail to get rid of all the holes and for later body work/paint or fill the holes in the frame rail and then body work those? I dont care about that lip that sticks up, Im not going for a full shave but I dont want to leave open holes and crap that won't be used.

Pros?
Cons?

[JohnStamos]

Debating.....

Easier to weld a flat plate over the frame rail to get rid of all the holes and for later body work/paint or fill the holes in the frame rail and then body work those? I dont care about that lip that sticks up, Im not going for a full shave but I dont want to leave open holes and crap that won't be used.

Pros?
Cons?

Make a removable plate, that sits flush with the lip, and hide your wiring/evap stuff underneath it.


Easy way to stay fully emissions capable.

[harlequin80]

I don't have emissions in my state
I have heard people talk about doing that though

[BlueDevilCabby]

I don't have emissions in my state
I have heard people talk about doing that though

Where do you live? In MI we don't either, same with front plates!

[harlequin80]

Car is registered in WV. No emissions no front plates

[Lamy207]

This thread needs to be sticky'd. Just sayin'.

[dceola]

This thread needs to be sticky'd. Just sayin'.

would be great if it could be.. sticky threads have to have been started by a mod :'(

[RATFINK]

can anyone tell me what you are using for radiator filling. i see some kind of inline reservoir between hoses.

[JohnStamos]

can anyone tell me what you are using for radiator filling. i see some kind of inline reservoir between hoses.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Inline...ign=GoogleBase

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...oducts_id=1598




You will need some form of overflow if it is a daily.

[Lamy207]

Started on the milspec harness today...

[skidplate]

Yes I seen that but you in theory could just snip off the end that plugs into the not so inexpensive ECU and rewire it to the OEM ecu. It would cut out 90% of the work making the rest of the harness.

True, but if I were to drop that kind of coin on a harness, I wouldn't want to cut it up.

[need_a_VR6]

The only shielded wires I found were the O2 sensor, crank position sensor, and knock sensor. Even those didn't seem to be truly shielded

They are, it's just done strangely. The shields all run together to a common harness ground wire that runs back out to the cylinder head ground point without connecting to the ECU ground plane as well.

The O2 you can probably ditch if you really wanted to, but crank and knock sensors *will* get grumpy without the shield if they're anywhere near a plug or coil wire.

[Afazz]

Are you referring to the black wire twisted up with the pairs? That is grounded and does act as a shield. The foil-lined sleeving was not grounded at either end on my car.

[Afazz]

I thought this conversation was familiar; we discussed this over PMs back in 6/2010. The shielding in my car was not tied to ground, the ground twisted with the O2/crank/knock sensors is not a shield. I have run my motor since then, it seemed to run fine from idle through redline but not under load (just running, not driving). If there was a signal noise issue, wouldn't it stall or stumble at some point through the rev range even free-revving?

[JohnStamos]

The O2 you can probably ditch if you really wanted to, but crank and knock sensors *will* get grumpy without the shield if they're anywhere near a plug or coil wire.

Found this out the hard way.

[Afazz]

What are the symptoms of electrical noise affecting the knock and crank sensors?