#36
started out with quite a machine, I like where this is going!![]()
#38
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#40
Just a little update here. I had the engine mounting points on the subframe reinforced with welds. Sanded and painted with por15. This was right after I put the por on and I have yet to see it totally dry.
I also ordered a prothane control arm bushing kit that I found out that I may have to buy the r32 rear bushings.Sometimes I have to learn the hardway and I am thinking of still using the poly only based on my HP goals. If I dont like them I guess that they are easy enough to change.
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#41
I got something up my sleeve for the cross member........
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#42
So I went ahead and installed the prothane bushings but I quickly noticed why they arent recommended. The video below shows how much movement there is when the bushing was clamped in the vice.
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#44
ah the PO makes an appearance!
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#45
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#46
#47
Yea, it's best to go with the R32/Prothane hybrids.
Sweet build![]()
#48
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#49
While everyone was having fun at the H2Oi festivities, I was doin work. I got the subframe just about finished. Im just waiting for some hardware from the dealer. Does anyone know where to get the boot for the steering knuckle? I ordered it from 1stvwparts.com and they emailed me back that its obselete. The dealer said the same thing.
I dropped the axels and hubs today. I dont really need to but I am going to replace the axles. I also did some test fitting of the frame rail covers and started removing seam sealer. The engine bay will be my new home for a while.
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Last edited by ItsNotaScirocco; 09-25-2011 at 08:59 PM.
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#50
Picked these up from the stealership today. All the rest of the hardware for the control arms, swaybar, and subframe.
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#51
seam sealer is the enemy
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#52
So I have made a lot of progress in the bay. I have been sanding for days. I removed the entire heating and a/c unit from inside the car for heater core replacement and removal of the a/c lines. I need to order a heater core and I was thinking about one on germanautoparts for around $40. Claims to be "high quality aftermarket part." Being that this is such a pain in the ass job to do, I want to make sure I get a good one. Any suggestions?
Also I am ready to get my trans work done. Which includes , diff, arp hardware new bearings and seals. Parts and labor included. Work will be done by a very reputable vw shop. $1250. Does this sound like a good number? That number may grow if I decide to go with different 5th gear. Everything worked well as far as shifting goes before being pulled. Trans has around 100k I am assuming based on reciepts from when the trans was replaced the first time. Should I invest in new syncros or should they be fine? This whole "while I'm in here mentality" really puts a hurtin on the wallet. Thanks for any help or opinions.![]()
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#53
dropped off the trans for the peloquin and ring and pinion change. Should be done in a week or so.
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#54
I have been prepping the bay for what feels like weeks. Here is a pic of how the bay looks now. I should be able to lay down some paint next weekend. Dont mind the paint spot in the pic. It was just a test sample area.
The trans is done and ready for paint. Apparently the ring and pinion were the correct size for my build. But everything else is complete. All new bearings and seals, and peloquin. Everything else checked out and is all ready to go.![]()
Last edited by ItsNotaScirocco; 10-30-2011 at 06:58 PM.
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#57
#59
Surge tank came in the mail today. Decent piece and decent price from M20 Motorsports. Tank is alot bigger than I thought it would be.
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#60
Every time I see pics of a shaved bay at this stage the tips of my fingers have flashbacks.
Looks good guys! Keep up the sanding!![]()
#61
#62
Cool thing is your fingers don't leave fingerprints for awhile.![]()
#63
This will be the first and last bay I shave myself. If any of my cars have this done, I will be paying someone to do it for me. I am curious what a shop would charge for a project like this.
So I got a chance to lay down the first coat of primer. I am still learning how to use hvlp guns. Getting it dialed is somewhat of a challenge for this hvlp noob. 1st coat came out pretty good tho. I hope I can get this painting done before someone complains about the smell. This is being done in my garage in a residential neighborhood and just the primer was pretty potent.
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#64
Looking good, wish mine was in primer. Hopfully I can get some time away from work to work on it.
One question though, Why did you leave the AC drain vent and mounting bolts?
(School Haus)
#65
The mounting bolts I plan on using for fpr and possibly a bracket to support the turbo intake pipe and filter. The a/c drain I simply over looked.![]()
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#66
Having done a full on extended harness and soldering a ton can you expand on this using a lighter bit... I use the soldering iron to heat the wires and pull in the solder, but a lighter? What solder are you using here?
#67
I managed to get a some paint and clear on. I still need a couple coats of clear to finish but its coming along nicely.
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#68
it will be nice to get that new camera for xmas, these pics are terrible.![]()
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#69
Started bringing up the clear coat. I still have some wet sanding and buffing to do but so far its coming along nicely.
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#70
Looks awesome dude!!! One tip for ya if you haven't done it already, POR the under side of the tray. Mine weren't done and started catching a little surface rust so I had to hit with some rust remover and then POR it. Do it now while there is no engine, front end, etc..