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    Thread: 2.0T BPY Camshaft adjuster, Tensioner, and chain Installation

    1. Junior Member
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      09-16-2011 11:52 PM #1
      I'm looking for a good DIY guide to installing the Camshaft adjuster and chain on my 2.0T BPY FSI engine on my 2007 VW passat.

      Long story short my chain tensioner failed and my chain broke along with some teeth on the cam shaft adjuster.

      I need to install new camshaft adjuster, tensioner, and chain.

      I have all the replacement parts. I also have the vw 10252 cam locking tool, and the polydrive socket for the camshaft adjuster bolt.

      Just wondering if anyone has done this before, has any advice, pictures, guide for installation?

    2. Junior Member
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      09-17-2011 12:17 AM #2
      Here is a picture of my broken chain.



      Broken Chain

    3. Member IMAN973's Avatar
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      09-17-2011 08:04 AM #3
      You probably bent the valves as well. You also need the cam tool to remove the adjuster.

    4. Junior Member
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      09-17-2011 05:48 PM #4
      Not bent valves, thank god!

      I got it all back together, performed a compression test, and all is good.

      Engine started right up, and purred like a kitty.

    5. 09-24-2011 08:03 AM #5
      How often is the chain meant to be replaced?

    6. Junior Member
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      09-24-2011 07:41 PM #6
      Not sure how often you need to check it, but I would recommend around every 60,000 or whenever you check you timing belt.

      I R/R - timing chain, tensioner, cam shaft adjuster, and cam follower. After waiting on parts, and a few special tool orders all went well. No bent valves, and she started right up and sounded great!

      1. timing chain $76.88
      2. tensioner $101.95
      3. Gasket set $ 38.46
      4. Cam shaft Adjuster and sensor seal $309.00
      5. Cam follwer $68.40
      6. Cam locking tool $ 82.99
      7. VW Poly Drive Socket Set$ 41.89
      8. My Labor

      Grand Total $ 719.57 Not bad I guess, the stealership would have been a lot more!

    7. 05-19-2013 05:06 PM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by vdubdriver07 View Post
      Not sure how often you need to check it, but I would recommend around every 60,000 or whenever you check you timing belt.

      I R/R - timing chain, tensioner, cam shaft adjuster, and cam follower. After waiting on parts, and a few special tool orders all went well. No bent valves, and she started right up and sounded great!

      1. timing chain $76.88
      2. tensioner $101.95
      3. Gasket set $ 38.46
      4. Cam shaft Adjuster and sensor seal $309.00
      5. Cam follwer $68.40
      6. Cam locking tool $ 82.99
      7. VW Poly Drive Socket Set$ 41.89
      8. My Labor

      Grand Total $ 719.57 Not bad I guess, the stealership would have been a lot more!
      great list, but my early paper Bentley has nada on cam chain. can anyone list steps required for this? thanks. I have '06 GLI, with 223,000 miles..I think it is time...

    8. 05-19-2013 05:35 PM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by iGen3 View Post
      great list, but my early paper Bentley has nada on cam chain. can anyone list steps required for this? thanks. I have '06 GLI, with 223,000 miles..I think it is time...
      found this: http://volkswagen.workshop-manuals.c...ex.php?id=5393

      is that look good? anything different in Bentley? (my old paper manual has nothing on cam chain)

    9. Member Tutti57's Avatar
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      05-19-2013 06:28 PM #9
      That'll do it. Looks just like Bentley.
      2006 Passat 2.0T Tiptronic | Unitronic Stage 2 | DG Springs | Newsouth Boost Gauge | BFI Tranny Insert | Rev D DV | BSH PCV fix | eBay Downpipe w/cat | Autotech Exhaust | DDM HIDs | Bentley Manual | VCDS - Car for sale! $6,000
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    10. 05-19-2013 08:41 PM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by Tutti57 View Post
      That'll do it. Looks just like Bentley.
      thanks.

    11. 09-09-2013 10:28 AM #11
      my engine is making a not healthy, rattling noise and I was told a camshaft adjuster would solve the problem,

      it is a 2.0 FSI ( AXX ) engine, it has a timing belt on the left side of the engine, but does it have a timing chain on the right side too? because it looks like that on the picture posted by vdubdriver07,

      is the install of the adjuster the same for both engine codes ( AXX, BPY )

      where do you suggest to get the adjuster kit from?

      Thank you

    12. Member coatofarms's Avatar
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      09-10-2013 11:23 AM #12
      ircsabi,

      Where are you located? Your engine code is a timing belt drive. The chain you see is for the cams(it drives the intake), and does not run the entire length of your engine. Only in the top of your cyl. head.

      I cannot recommend parts as I don't know where you are.
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    13. 09-10-2013 12:44 PM #13
      Hi,

      thanks for your reply, I live in Cork, Ireland

    14. 09-10-2013 02:22 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by coatofarms View Post
      ircsabi,

      Where are you located? Your engine code is a timing belt drive. The chain you see is for the cams(it drives the intake), and does not run the entire length of your engine. Only in the top of your cyl. head.

      I cannot recommend parts as I don't know where you are.
      just to clarify, so I have a timing belt on the left side and a cam chain on the right side,
      i usually get my car serviced at a main dealer, but they never told me about this chain,
      does it need to be serviced? changed? or anything?

      there is 180k kms on my car and that side of the engine wasnt even opened so far...

      thank you

    15. Member Tutti57's Avatar
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      09-10-2013 04:47 PM #15
      Yes, the fsi has a chain on the cams like the pic shows. It's not considered a maintainable item but the tensioner could be failing causing extra noise and the chain coil potentially break causing a big repair bill.
      2006 Passat 2.0T Tiptronic | Unitronic Stage 2 | DG Springs | Newsouth Boost Gauge | BFI Tranny Insert | Rev D DV | BSH PCV fix | eBay Downpipe w/cat | Autotech Exhaust | DDM HIDs | Bentley Manual | VCDS - Car for sale! $6,000
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    16. n00b
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      11-11-2013 08:47 PM #16
      Quote Originally Posted by vdubdriver07 View Post
      Not sure how often you need to check it, but I would recommend around every 60,000 or whenever you check you timing belt.

      I R/R - timing chain, tensioner, cam shaft adjuster, and cam follower. After waiting on parts, and a few special tool orders all went well. No bent valves, and she started right up and sounded great!

      1. timing chain $76.88
      2. tensioner $101.95
      3. Gasket set $ 38.46
      4. Cam shaft Adjuster and sensor seal $309.00
      5. Cam follwer $68.40
      6. Cam locking tool $ 82.99
      7. VW Poly Drive Socket Set$ 41.89
      8. My Labor

      Grand Total $ 719.57 Not bad I guess, the stealership would have been a lot more!

      i have a 2006 passat 2.0. it has started to make a noise when it gets hot that sounds like the cam chain tension-er is going. i am planning on replacing the chain and adjuster myself before it breaks. Did you have a manual when you worked on your car? i have the bentley manual on my computer. i guess my question is, what are the must have tools to do this job? the manual has a whole list of them, but it seems like you did it with out a few of the tools on the list.

      thanks for sharing

    17. 11-11-2013 09:55 PM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by 25racine View Post
      i have a 2006 passat 2.0. it has started to make a noise when it gets hot that sounds like the cam chain tension-er is going. i am planning on replacing the chain and adjuster myself before it breaks. Did you have a manual when you worked on your car? i have the bentley manual on my computer. i guess my question is, what are the must have tools to do this job? the manual has a whole list of them, but it seems like you did it with out a few of the tools on the list.

      thanks for sharing

      I have the tools you need. I'll shoot you a PM.

    18. 11-12-2013 08:41 AM #18
      can you guys please call VWoA and let them know you guys are having to replace your chains and related parts. After I went through a month long hastle with them regarding this *maintenance*, it seems it is a very common repair that they are aware of but have stated they wont initiate a warranty unless they get more individual people responses in their system. While my car was at the dealership they quoted me a $7k repair/ engine replacement for this same exact work.
      formerly TVarmy04 & DUBMANG
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      Quote Originally Posted by sirswank View Post
      you're gonna run them regardless, so post pics when they're on. if they look stupid, we'll let you know.

    19. 12-03-2013 07:32 PM #19
      my 2006 passat 2.0T makes this noise

      help me check the link

      http://youtu.be/asuY1swCpKY

    20. 12-03-2013 07:40 PM #20
      my 2006 passat 2.0T makes this noise

      help me check the link

      http://youtu.be/asuY1swCpKY

    21. 05-12-2014 01:35 AM #21
      Did you ever figure out what the copper link on the timing chain was for ? I can find no literature on it and my buddy looked in Elsa to find nothing in the factory guide about it. I hate timing the cams on this motor with the lock tool because there is enough slop in the cams with it locked down where you can be a tooth off. There has to be a tooth count for these POS's

    22. 05-12-2014 09:33 AM #22
      I'm not sure that link means anything. I'm thinking it is just the link they assembled the chain with, as a sort of marker for manufacturing. Somebody correct me if they have more information, please.

      As for the slop, just pull back the timing belt cover and double check the markings. That should assure you that you are aligned properly.

    23. Member Tutti57's Avatar
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      05-12-2014 01:58 PM #23
      I dont remember seeing this link on the replacement chain I put in.

      Sent from my SPH-M950 using Tapatalk
      2006 Passat 2.0T Tiptronic | Unitronic Stage 2 | DG Springs | Newsouth Boost Gauge | BFI Tranny Insert | Rev D DV | BSH PCV fix | eBay Downpipe w/cat | Autotech Exhaust | DDM HIDs | Bentley Manual | VCDS - Car for sale! $6,000
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    24. 05-20-2014 12:34 AM #24
      how did you check for valve/piston damage without taking off the head?

      this just happened to my car

    25. Member theGLIguy's Avatar
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      05-20-2014 11:58 AM #25
      Quote Originally Posted by skateboy_918 View Post
      how did you check for valve/piston damage without taking off the head?

      this just happened to my car
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhhV1c7FYns

    26. Member
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      05-20-2014 07:31 PM #26
      So this is pretty straight forward in terms of how it's done. Take the cam timing cover off, take valve cover off, install cam locking tool, loosen Polydrive screw in the cam adjuster (don't try using a torx bit, it will strip... And there's a decent chance even using the Polydrive tool will strip it, it's a champfered screw that you tighten to 30ft-lbs and turn 45 to stretch... Doesn't feel like much, but man it's on there tight.

      Remove adjuster, remove chain, remove tensioner.

      Tensioner screws are 10Nm iirc.

      Place the chain on the adjuster, lay it over the intake cam
      Sprocket as you guide it onto the exhaust cam.

      The trickiest part is making sure you're dead on. Even with the cam locking tool I've read multiple reports (and even happened to me once) where the intake cam timing can be off by one tooth and you have to do the whole thing again.

      Only real way to know if it's off is by running it. If you have crappy power until about 4000 rpm, you might be off by one tooth. I don't know if someone can validate this, but from my searching you can be up to 3 teeth off before it will cause head dammage, so one tooth off, while an annoyance, won't kill your head if you start it up.

      If the cam locking tool doesn't insert and remove easily, you might be off by one tooth.

      Good luck

    27. 05-20-2014 08:23 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by majic View Post
      So this is pretty straight forward in terms of how it's done. Take the cam timing cover off, take valve cover off, install cam locking tool, loosen Polydrive screw in the cam adjuster (don't try using a torx bit, it will strip... And there's a decent chance even using the Polydrive tool will strip it, it's a champfered screw that you tighten to 30ft-lbs and turn 45 to stretch... Doesn't feel like much, but man it's on there tight.

      Remove adjuster, remove chain, remove tensioner.

      Tensioner screws are 10Nm iirc.

      Place the chain on the adjuster, lay it over the intake cam
      Sprocket as you guide it onto the exhaust cam.

      The trickiest part is making sure you're dead on. Even with the cam locking tool I've read multiple reports (and even happened to me once) where the intake cam timing can be off by one tooth and you have to do the whole thing again.

      Only real way to know if it's off is by running it. If you have crappy power until about 4000 rpm, you might be off by one tooth. I don't know if someone can validate this, but from my searching you can be up to 3 teeth off before it will cause head dammage, so one tooth off, while an annoyance, won't kill your head if you start it up.

      If the cam locking tool doesn't insert and remove easily, you might be off by one tooth.

      Good luck
      Can't you prevent being off by double checking the marks on the timing belt sign. If the mark there is aligned and the cam locking tool is in I would think there would be no chance of being off a tooth. Maybe I'm not thinking about it hard enough.

    28. Semi-n00b
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      08-28-2014 06:07 AM #28
      I hope some can help me with the following

      Vehicle details : VW Jetta 4 V5 2.3L 20V 2001 model
      Engine : AQN

      I have recently replaced all timing chains, chain tensioners and guide rails, Gaskets, Seals, Piston Rings due to engine sludge.

      After assembling the motor and checking all the timing marks over and over, When rotating the motor clockwise by hand to check that nothing is out of order I noticed that the cam adjustors are sticking. When the motor is turned over the cams seem to stick at certain intervals but automatically jump back into position, its as if the cams are stuck in the cam adjusters and at certain intervals release and jump back into position, even after turning the motor over about 30 times all the timing marks are still correct. Therefore the timing chain is not jumping the sprockets and offsetting the timing.

      The TDC mark on piston 1 is correct, the marks on the intermediate shaft/sprocket are correct as well as the marks on the chain showing the 16 links between the camshaft adjusters and the marks on the Valve timing housing.

      The cams are also in the correct position, using a plate at the rear of the cams to keep them in position, during initial timing setup.

      I had to remove the camshaft adjusters to clean out all the sludge and was wondering could this be because of no oil pressure in the camshaft adjusters ,that its sticking?

      If anybody can assist me with this or had a similar issue...PLEASE HELP

    29. Member theGLIguy's Avatar
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      08-28-2014 08:08 AM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by wesley rsa View Post
      I hope some can help me with the following

      Vehicle details : VW Jetta 4 V5 2.3L 20V 2001 model
      Engine : AQN

      I have recently replaced all timing chains, chain tensioners and guide rails, Gaskets, Seals, Piston Rings due to engine sludge.

      After assembling the motor and checking all the timing marks over and over, When rotating the motor clockwise by hand to check that nothing is out of order I noticed that the cam adjustors are sticking. When the motor is turned over the cams seem to stick at certain intervals but automatically jump back into position, its as if the cams are stuck in the cam adjusters and at certain intervals release and jump back into position, even after turning the motor over about 30 times all the timing marks are still correct. Therefore the timing chain is not jumping the sprockets and offsetting the timing.

      The TDC mark on piston 1 is correct, the marks on the intermediate shaft/sprocket are correct as well as the marks on the chain showing the 16 links between the camshaft adjusters and the marks on the Valve timing housing.

      The cams are also in the correct position, using a plate at the rear of the cams to keep them in position, during initial timing setup.

      I had to remove the camshaft adjusters to clean out all the sludge and was wondering could this be because of no oil pressure in the camshaft adjusters ,that its sticking?

      If anybody can assist me with this or had a similar issue...PLEASE HELP
      We probably can't help you. You are in the wrong section. I personally did mine but I have no idea about the chain system in the MK4 cars. You might want to check that forum first

    30. 09-07-2014 10:08 AM #30
      With the help of this thread I tackled my noisy chain and tensioner this weekend. I was off by a tooth the first time so I had to repeat, but it was much quicker the second time!

      A tip that I wish I'd known is that I could see that the cams were correct the second time by the alignment of the key way on the exhaust cam (3 o'clock), and the slot on the intake cam (12 o'clock). These are probably consistent on all engines and give another easy verification that all is well.

      In my case, when torquing the exhaust bolt I managed to stretch the small screws that hold the alignment tool together (the countersunk ones that hold the posts), so the posts were very wobbly. I was so confident that I'd got everything right because it took a lot of tries to get the sprocket on the cam, that I didn't verify my work and excitedly put it all together again. I do that kind of thing all the time, grrrrr. The symptoms were exactly as stated - gutless power until 4000rpm, and a loud induction roar.

      Oh, I have the tools now and hopefully won't need them again. If anyone wants them, $60 shipped to the lower 48. Edit: the tools have a new owner. Good luck Adam!
      Last edited by loach1; 09-09-2014 at 02:49 PM.

    31. Junior Member
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      10-09-2014 12:57 AM #31
      hey guys. I am new to the Vortex world. Please excuse me if I make any mistakes as this is my very first post.
      I have this P000A code. Changed the N205 valve but after about 180 miles, the CEL came back on. The engine is a bit noisy from when I initially bought it. I guess now my next option is to change the tensioner and the adjuster. There seems to be a lot of good info here on DIY. Does anyone have the tools to tackle this job for 2006 VW passat 2.0T. Please let me know.

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