its been a while, but here is a little vid my friend came up with. Oh and I have power slot slotted rotors and geenstuff brake pads in the trunk right now.
Time for an update.
Since I last posted in this thread I have installed power slot slotteed front rotors and greenstuff pads front and rear. Great set up for the price.
Also I deleted my muffler and put on techtonics tuning exhaust tips, I had them turned up a little. I really like the noise itand how it pops.
I put 2.0fsi coilpacks and integrated engineering adaptors.
Unfortunatly my diverter valve blew yesterday. So a forge 007 is in the mail as of right now.
Thats pretty much it on with the pics
I also got around to polishing the shaft so it would match all the polished parts of the gated shifter
A quick question as well. I saw PLAYED's build thread and noticed that all of the lines ontop of the motor had been removed. I pmed him and he said he relocated them to underneath his battery. Does anyone have a DIY on how to do this?
Pic for reference all of the stuff in the black circle
Last edited by DaCabrioGuy; 04-03-2012 at 11:03 PM.
Last edited by DaCabrioGuy; 04-10-2012 at 09:16 PM.
Its been a while looking good so what's next
^^^Big Turbo build lots of pics^^^
Best shop for repair and custom workin ma
The mk2 wheels look awesome, I always liked them and wondered how'd they'd look on our TT
N249/vac delete: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-1-N249-delete
(note: you do not need a resistor for the project, just keep the N249 plugged in and tucked away in the engine bay, same goes for the N112 evap valve, if you decide to ditch the SAI stuff as well)
Last edited by l88m22vette; 08-20-2012 at 08:50 PM.
Audi TT mk1 FAQ ███ Clutch and other **** next week
The spaghetti mess you refer to are all of the vacuum hoses connected to the N249. While I didn't hide mine, I did replace all of those rubber hoses with silicone hoses. I could have moved the N249 by just using longer hoses where necessary.
I believe others have moved theirs, moved them to below the metal plate at the front of the engine (where the N75 is hiding), below the plastic plate at the oil dip stick. There is actually quite a bit of room there and it is easier to get to than say, below the battery, if you need to change things out at a later date.
The key is: the N249 is the center of the spaghetti hub. So, you only need longer hoses to got back to the DV (if it is in the original spot). Of the two hoses that go from the N249 to between the opening in the intake manifold, one is already connected to the N75 (below that metal plate) and the other is connected to a nipple on the bottom left-side of the intake manifold. All of the others are very visible so easy to run longer hoses.
You will need 3.5 or 4mm (I used 4mm as it is easier to find) for the two going thru the manifold. Use 6mm for the DV to N249 and 8mm for the others. The only one you will not replace with normal silicone, is the rubber y-connector that is on the right side of the N249 that has that little black valve attached to it.
If you decide to do this and have any questions, PM me.
You don't own a TT, you support it: 2001 LZ7W coupe; REVO chip; Forge hoses and DV relo; MadMax DV; Modshack VTDA; BlueFlame Catback, OSIR corners, Forge bling, H&R, Bilsteins, DEFCON2, 986 seats, 18in OZ Vela II; OEM TTQS alcantara steering wheel, knob, ebrake; OEM: BBS RS IIs; roof rack; trunk rack; phone bracket; trunk mat; all weather floor mats; 4-piece Votex kit. My Mods here: http://public.fotki.com/TTQ2K2/. 2007 3.2 S-Line A3.
^Thanks for that post,
I have run into a bit of a problem lately with my boost pressure.
About a week ago I was driving on the hwy and noticed that my car was exceptionally slow. I looked at my boost gauge and sure enough it was only putting out 5 psi vs. the normal 18psi.
I immeadiatly came to the conclusion that it was a boost leak, but I couldnt hear a leaking sound. Evrything was spooling up just find and then it just flatspots at 5psi.
I just remembered that during the track day I did two weeks ago I got a cel. Someone at the track scanned it for me and gave me the code. I looked it up and it had to do with the maf. It didnt effect performance so he just cleared it
I didnt have another cel until about 2 days ago when another one popped up which im guessing its for the maf.
So my question is do you think my maf is causing the boost failure? I tried cleaning the maf, but that didnt do anything.