Rockerdan's Build/Mod/DIY Thread!!!

[autodan]

A video of the RVC in action! enjoy!

I tackled the rvc install today, and I have to say a huge thank you to Rockerdan, your detailed DIY saved my life, and the rvc works perfectly! I had read and researched this DIY so much prior that it feels so good to be done with it. I'm pretty much a novice at wiring and trim removal, but anyone can do this mod if they're patient and follow the instructions. Thanks again!

[dampine]

I knew I would eventually regret going with the RCD-510.

[rockerdan]

Hey all....

Was up at my winter home for the winter snowmobiling, had some great success with my new arctic cat F1100 turbo, got the ECU tune from Turbo Dynamics and was able to run 134 on radar. The tune upped the boost from stock 11lbs to 22lbs, hold on!!! what a blast we had this winter!

Now back home and spring is here....got the car out of the shop, unplugged the battery tender and fired her up! Man i miss this little car, I forgot how much i love driving it. Gonna be so nice to go from 12MPG in my dodge ram to 25-30MPG in the GTI!

Now i gotta get her dropped, and some wheels finally! Got some things ordered to cure the 4x4 status!

Ill keep updating things as i get them done.

Dan

[tonyh215]

Good to have you back man! I too am in the process of doing the wheels/suspension. My wheels came yesterday, and will go to the powdercoater soon.

[rockerdan]

Good to have you back man! I too am in the process of doing the wheels/suspension. My wheels came yesterday, and will go to the powdercoater soon.

Awesome cant wait to see.....Ill check out your thread!

[hilld]

Nice work. Lots of inspiration.

[VW Pfeffer]

Welcome back Dan! I took delivery of my CW Golf R on March 6th. Your thread was very helpful, especially the backup camera notes. My R is an automotive brother from another mother to your GTI.

Thanks for your help!

[hussdog426]

Welcome back

[E CODE]

Not to sound lazy, and I'm not sure if it was posted elsewhere in the thread - but where did you find instructions for all the extra VagCom tweaks? Like turning the DRL off when signalling and stuff?

[wolfsburgfanatic]

Was up at my winter home for the winter snowmobiling, had some great success with my new arctic cat F1100 turbo, got the ECU tune from Turbo Dynamics and was able to run 134 on radar. The tune upped the boost from stock 11lbs to 22lbs, hold on!!! what a blast we had this winter!

134 on a snowmobile

Looking forward to seeing your wheel/suspension choices.

[f00kie]

rockerdan,

I just received my RVC from the same place you got it. It contained 3 extra things that I think your kit didn't contain:
Plastic tube and rubber plug for the drain
Splice thing (assuming for red wire)
Fuse

Any idea where the fuse would go?

Also, for the yellow/black wire connection, you attach it to some sort of a harness coming out of the car; where did that come from?

[E CODE]

On a related note.... thing the RVC install would be the same with a RNS 510?

[johnnyR32]

On a related note.... thing the RVC install would be the same with a RNS 510?

yes...exactly the same.

[rockerdan]

rockerdan,

I just received my RVC from the same place you got it. It contained 3 extra things that I think your kit didn't contain:
Plastic tube and rubber plug for the drain
Splice thing (assuming for red wire)
Fuse

Any idea where the fuse would go?

Also, for the yellow/black wire connection, you attach it to some sort of a harness coming out of the car; where did that come from?

the seller did contact me about this DIY for RVC, I believe he took some points and added some things to the kit, great!

Fuse I assume is for power, depending on where you hook into for power. Where i hooked in it is already fused.

Dan

[f00kie]

the seller did contact me about this DIY for RVC, I believe he took some points and added some things to the kit, great!

Fuse I assume is for power, depending on where you hook into for power. Where i hooked in it is already fused.

Dan

Awesome, yet more reason to buy from the seller! I have not seen a shipped item be so well packed before (the cables had more bubble wrap around them than anything I've ordered before, let alone the camera piece which had even more). Highly recommend the Polish seller.

[rockerdan]

rockerdan,

Also, for the yellow/black wire connection, you attach it to some sort of a harness coming out of the car; where did that come from?

Yell is trigger and black is ground....

I copied and pasted this from my DIY back on post #54 , please read closely the entire DIY before starting the RVC install.....Dan

The only wires that need to go completely from camera to front head unit are the RED and COAX.(Leaving the Yell and Black wires within the wrap is easier then unwrapping them altogether, as the yell and black are ONLY NEEDED to run from cam to tailight, so we just leave them alone after cutting off the 48 needed inches from cam to tailight)

The Yellow and black wires will only go from CAM to right rear tailight, approx 48" only needed

At the camera end, remove 48" of the black wrapping, to expose the yellow,black and red wires.

**Cut the yellow and black wires 48" (4ft) measured from the CAMERA end.DO NOT CUT COAX!!!

**Cut the RED wire 36" from the CAMERA END(see tape measure in pic below)DO NOT CUT COAX!!!

MY RVC DIY:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...1#post73683334

[f00kie]

I copied and pasted this from my DIY back on post #54 , please read closely the entire DIY before starting the RVC install.....Dan

The only wires that need to go completely from camera to front head unit are the RED and COAX.(Leaving the Yell and Black wires within the wrap is easier then unwrapping them altogether, as the yell and black are ONLY NEEDED to run from cam to tailight, so we just leave them alone after cutting off the 48 needed inches from cam to tailight)

The Yellow and black wires will only go from CAM to right rear tailight, approx 48" only needed

At the camera end, remove 48" of the black wrapping, to expose the yellow,black and red wires.

**Cut the yellow and black wires 48" (4ft) measured from the CAMERA end.DO NOT CUT COAX!!!

**Cut the RED wire 36" from the CAMERA END(see tape measure in pic below)DO NOT CUT COAX!!!

MY RVC DIY:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...1#post73683334

My question was more about this picture:



Where did that gray harness come from? Is it part of the car?

[rockerdan]

My question was more about this picture:



Where did that gray harness come from? Is it part of the car?

The grey harness is for R LED tailights....you will not have this unless you installed LED tails.

Dan

[GTI FST]

does the touch on the hatch still work? with the keyless on the autobahn. with that camera

[rockerdan]

does the touch on the hatch still work? with the keyless on the autobahn. with that camera

hatch lever works exactly same in every way, as before cam....

Dan

[GTI FST]

hatch lever works exactly same in every way, as before cam....

Dan

thanks. This is my 1st VW GTI . Always had nissan.

[rockerdan]

Got a couple deliveries this week....nothing else to report but hoping to get time to work on the GTI this coming week.....


Thanks to AWE tuning for the great price on Springs....$217 shipped!




Many thanks to Achtuning for a awesome deal, and perfect shipping, Mounting/balancing. They all look flawless!



More to come later this week....and ofcourse pics!

Dan

[tonyh215]

Good stuff Dan! Excited to see what the wheels and springs look like.

[rockerdan]

Good stuff Dan! Excited to see what the wheels and springs look like.

thx bud! cant wait to get it all done!!

[Aonarch]

[tonyh215]

Any plans for an ECU flash? That is by-far my favorite upgrade to my car so far. I'm toying with the idea of K04, but buying a house is priority number 1.

[E CODE]

Any plans for an ECU flash? That is by-far my favorite upgrade to my car so far. I'm toying with the idea of K04, but buying a house is priority number 1.

I thought about flashing too.... but for now, I want to stick to stuff that can be somewhat easily reversible and enjoy my 4 years of bumper to bumper warranty (which was a big reason I bought the car).

[rockerdan]

Any plans for an ECU flash? That is by-far my favorite upgrade to my car so far. I'm toying with the idea of K04, but buying a house is priority number 1.

I was going to get it done last week during the sale....But looks like ill have to wait abit.

I think when APR has their next sale ill be going stage 1 for sure though, thats the one thing i cant wait much longer for!

Dan

[rockerdan]

I finally got my springs and wheels done! It was actually rather easy for my first time, and even though i read several DIYs none of them seemed to be very detailed. Some of them use the remove HUB method while others use a simpler method. I did the simpler method. There also seemed to be alot of questions about jacking the car up properly, so i decided to detail how i did mine.

I think anyone could do this, just have the proper "special tools" and at minimum you should replace the stretch type bolts that hold the pinch spindle around the strut itself. Other bolts/nuts i reused. Many replace all bolts/nuts but IMO the ones that are truly needed i only replaced. My car only had 5k miles on it, so i did not replace the bearings or anything else, I will be adding koni yellow sport shocks at a later date.


Rockerdan's H&R Super Sport DIY

**Special tools needed:**

Strut spreader tool



M14 Triple Square



Coil Spring Compressor



13/16 or 21mm Offset box wrench




**Bolts needed:N-909-548-02, 2 needed



FRONTS REMOVAL:
1. With car on flat surface, apply hand brake and put car in gear or park.

2. Jack up front under rocker panel where VW jack would go, I used a piece of OAK approx 4"x3.5" between my floor jack and car. At this time do not raise tire off ground.













3. With tire still contacting ground slightly, crack loose wheel lugs just a tad using 17mm socket or VW lug wrench(I did job alone so had noone to put foot on brakes to keep wheel from turning)


4. Now jack up the car far enough to place a jackstand under where the LCA(Lower Control Arm) connect to car.




5. now that one side is on jackstand, lower jack and go to other side, it makes the job much easier and faster to get entire front
up in air.


6. Jack up other side in same spot, loosening lug nuts a tad, then jacking rest of way and placing jack stand at rear of LCA.



7. Now entire front end is in air, now remove jack altogether and remove both front wheels/tires from car.



7a. At this time locate the ABS wires, I highly recommend pulling them out of their anchors, this allows alittle more free play in wiring so they dont get stretched when removing struts.




8. Locate the sway bar link, and remove the top 18mm nut that attaches link to strut, Just lay
each link down out of the way. Do BOTH sides of car.










9. Remove three 16mm nuts on very bottom of LCA. These need a deepwell or wrench, do both sides of car.






10. Push down on LCA so they come off and away from ball joint, just push it down and out of way best you can,do both sides of car.





11. PINCH SPINDLE: At bottom of strut, using a M14 Triple Square on stretch bolt, and 18mm deepwell socket on nut, remove the stretch bolts that "pinch" the spindle around strut bottom. at this time do one side of car.









12. Using a strut spreader tool, insert tool into rear slot, and twist it 1/4 turn to open the "pinch" on spindle.






13. With pinch "open" you will feel the spindle begin to drop, you will need to stomp on the rotor to get it off. Mine came off pretty easy, this is where having both sides of sway bar links off helps alot, otherwise you are fighting the sway bar. It helps alot if you can push the LCA and sway bar down, having a buddy hold them down makes it alot easier so when you stomp the rotor it pops down low enough easily. I did mine alone and wasn't too bad.





14. Once it was at bottom, i was able to get a screwdriver in there to get it out completely.









15. Now go under the hood and open up the rain tray above strut. Pull out the foam seal at edge, then pull some rubber weatherstrip off so you can lift rain tray enough to expose three 13mm bolts on strut tower.





16. Loosen the 13mm bolts, on the last bolt reach down and hold the strut with one hand so it does not drop when you remove last bolt. As you pull out strut, make note of the REARWARD hole, take some blue tape and put a piece of tape around edge at the rearward hole. this will assure the bearing plate goes back in exactly then same later.






17. I put the strut into a vice to hold it(careful how you clamp it!!)......using a spring compressor tool (got mine real cheap at harbour freight) compress the stock springs enough to remove pressure so when you remove nut it doesn't kill you!






18. once compressed, remove the large 21mm NUT on top of strut. This is where a special tool is needed, I ended up buying a offset box wrench set at harbour freight for only $15 for entire set, they did not have a set with 21mm though, so i got SAE set and used the 13/16 size which worked perfectly. You need to hold the middle shaft with 7mm allen wrench/socket. Notice Tape on rearward hole.







19. Remove the 21mm nut , remove bearing plate and remove stock spring from strut. Notice how bump stop is oriented.






Spring compare





20. Install new lowering spring over strut, be sure to install spring with writing/part numbers right side up, so you can read springs when upright, also be sure to slide bump stop on correctly, install bearing plate and install nut hand tight.




21. before tightening, slide the dust boot up into the bearing plate and be sure its seated and snapped in, you can slide up the bottom of dust boot sleave alittle instead of stretching the boot too much. Also be sure bottom of spring itself is seated properly into strut seat. Now tighten the 21mm nut, holding the 7mm allen. Torque these down pretty hard IMO.




22. Now set this finished strut over at car near where it came off from.....and remove the other side strut repeating steps 11 thru 21. DO not mix them up.






FRONTS REINSTALL:

1. Basically going to reverse the removal.....be sure to locate the peice of tape at the rearward hole of bearing plate, hold strut up with one hand while guiding down a 13mm bolt from under the raintray. Start the bolt by hand, this will help hold the strut up. Make sure the hole with tape is rearward.





2. Install and snug down all three 13mm bolts at this time. Notice tape is rearward.








3. Now insert strut spreader tool into spindle, open the "pinch" up, and work the strut back ontop of spindle to start seating it.








4. Reinstall three LCA 16mm nuts on very bottom, and torque down.






5. Place floor jack under LCA bolts, and pump up....you will see the spindle slide upward around strut. Pump it up all the way til the strut bottoms into spindle, be sure its all the way in.








6. Remove strut spreader tool. Install NEW stretch bolts into spindle, and existing 18mm nuts. Using M14 triple square and 18mm deepwell socket tighten/torque down.





6A. Fully tighten the three 13mm bolts under rain tray and remove jack from under LCA.


7. repeat opposite side.


8. Once all done, install the sway bar links on both sides of car, with the 18mm nuts. torque down.





9. reinstall the ABS wires into their holders.



10. reinstall wheels and lower car, torque wheels.






REAR REMOVAL: (much easier and quicker)

1. On level ground, block front tires and apply hand brake, and put car in gear or park.

2. place jack under middle of car at rear frame/crossmember. Its right behind the spare tire well.









3. once jacked up, place jack stands under each side where stock VW jack would go.








4. Remove rear wheels with 17mm socket or stock VW lug wrench. Pics, stock springs before removal.









5. Remove LCA (lower control arm) 18MM nut.










6. Once nut is removed, place floor jack under LCA.






7. Jack up jack slowly, and just high enough to allow LCA bolt to be pulled out.




7a. *** Take notice of BiXenon leveler rod on the rear left LCA,be careful not to hurt the rod***



8. once bolt is out, lower the jack slowly allowing stock spring to become loose.




9. remove spring




pics of top and bottom seats





10. remove top rubber seat/cushion


compare pic




11. install top rubber seat/cushion onto new lowering spring, making sure the words/part numbers on springs are facing upward so you can read them when installed.





12. install new spring into LCA, making sure to seat it properly into the bottom seat in LCA.







13. Place jack under LCA, and jack up lining up the LCA , once high enough tap existing bolt into place from rear.





14. Install 18mm nut and torque down.




15. Once both sides of car are done, reinstall wheels, torque lugs, remove jack stands, lower car.


DONE!

[tonyh215]

Nice write up as always

[rockerdan]

I installed my new wheels/tires at same time as Suspension. I have to say, i was worried after so much reading of 19s riding super rough, and super sports riding rough. Well with this setup the ride is very close to stock IMO after 50 miles today. So far i find these tires must be alot smoother, and are sure alot quieter then stockers. So the wheels/tire combo IMO is actually better then stock 18s.

As for springs, I did detect the odd bounce on certain type of bumps, but very slight and IMO not bad at all. As for potholes/bumps, the super sports feel great, barely rougher then stock. This could be due to the soft smooth feel of these amazing conti DW tires, just amazing. The car feels sportier, much more like a go kart and turns amazing. Im hoping it will settle alittle more, the drop is more on rears for me, but h&r says supposed to be more on fronts. Hoping it just needs to settle more up front. Anyway, very happy for the cost cant beat it. I will install koni shocks to match these springs in about 6 mts. But im anxious to see how the stock dampers hold up after reading so many mixed reviews on stock shocks/lowering springs.

Big thanks goes out to Achtuning! They hooked me up with a great deal, and these wheels are very high quality, not made in china! The mounted/balanced my tires and shipped all here flawlessly! Nice job guys, thanks!

Some pics.....Hartmann hroc-233 19x8.5 ET47 with conti DW 225/35-19 tires.

[shankys_14]

Looks real nice Dan I was looking into the 233s.

[Dix]

Awesome spring install writeup!

Gotta love the Northeast though... 5K miles on the car and already rust around the LCA.

[rockerdan]

Awesome spring install writeup!

Gotta love the Northeast though... 5K miles on the car and already rust around the LCA.

This car has never seen winter/snow/salt and barely any rain. I drive my truck when its crummy out. Anything you see is just on surface, each bolt/nut had barely anything on it and all came apart easily. I would hate to work on this after a couple winters though.

Dan

[rockerdan]