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    Thread: 300 wheel hp supercharged vr6

    1. Member tdmopar59's Avatar
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      09-28-2011 07:32 PM #26
      I edited the original post and title so I could ask my new set of questions without making a new thread....

    2. Banned SVTDanny's Avatar
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      09-28-2011 09:22 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by Capt.Dreadz View Post
      I wonder if they make a VR bracket for this...

      300hp would be no problem then
      You're obviously joking, but a VR6 could never even make enough power to spin that.... the F3 requires 500-800 base horsepower and the F4 requires 900-1400, not sure which you pictured as they're both massive.

      OP - don't do a lightweight flywheel. Stock clutch will be fine, but you might want to consider upgrading if you're going to be there. For 325 whp, don't bother with the head or cams. Get a Kinetic kit, 3" exhaust, and a Walbro, then turn the boost up until you hit your number. You'll hit your goal easily.

    3. Member tdmopar59's Avatar
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      09-28-2011 10:13 PM #28
      I was going to have this done
      http://www.spturbo.com/onlinestore/i...nder-head.html

      I figured it might help it breathe a little better have a nicer low end. Main reason I was thinking about cams was for the year I'm going to drive it naturally aspirated... As long as they will have some benefit down the road as well... I don't want to buy them if they're only good for a year for me. I'm just now beginning my research on which turbo to go with... I'm not much of a kit person there are too many choices out there. What would you reccomend upgrading to? And any reason for the no on lightweight flywheel? Only downside i've came across so far was some extra noise...

    4. Banned SVTDanny's Avatar
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      09-29-2011 08:11 AM #29
      Cams would be a good choice if you're looking to go all out. For a very mild build as you're describing, there is no need. If you want to rebuild the head, then go for it, but the same applies - unless you're really looking to push the envelope, your money is better spent elsewhere.


      You would be best off with the Kinetic kit. It's a great kit with everything you'll need to do exactly what you want. With that turbo, you will easily hit your goal of 325, and also have great down-low power.

      Lightweight flywheel is up to you, but for a turbo car, you really want to keep everything moving as much as you can during shifts. Not that big of a concern with the Kinetic 60 trim since it spools very quickly, but again, your money is better spent elsewhere.

      If I were you, I'd leave the head alone, and rebuild the bottom end. Hone, bearings, rings, ARP bolts, gaskets, chains, etc. Spend your money there so you don't wind up burning a quart of oil a week down the road.

    5. Member tdmopar59's Avatar
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      09-29-2011 08:33 AM #30
      Quote Originally Posted by djsheijkdfj View Post
      Cams would be a good choice if you're looking to go all out. For a very mild build as you're describing, there is no need. If you want to rebuild the head, then go for it, but the same applies - unless you're really looking to push the envelope, your money is better spent elsewhere.


      You would be best off with the Kinetic kit. It's a great kit with everything you'll need to do exactly what you want. With that turbo, you will easily hit your goal of 325, and also have great down-low power.

      Lightweight flywheel is up to you, but for a turbo car, you really want to keep everything moving as much as you can during shifts. Not that big of a concern with the Kinetic 60 trim since it spools very quickly, but again, your money is better spent elsewhere.

      If I were you, I'd leave the head alone, and rebuild the bottom end. Hone, bearings, rings, ARP bolts, gaskets, chains, etc. Spend your money there so you don't wind up burning a quart of oil a week down the road.

      Thanks! I will look into some bottom end work. How quick does it spool? I'm coming from the 1.8t world and I simply hate lag Haha. I have been looking at turbo's a lot recently there is just an overwhelming amount of options. I was thinking a turbo that makes 325 around 12psi and can be cranked up here and there. It's funny how the goal changes originally it was just a modest 300hp supercharged build lol. I was starting to consider a gt3076r... Thoughts?
      Last edited by tdmopar59; 09-29-2011 at 08:38 AM.

    6. Banned SVTDanny's Avatar
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      09-29-2011 08:57 AM #31
      The 60 trim will start to spool almost instantly above 2,000 RPM. You will hit 325 with it at around 12-14 psi, depending on the rest of your setup. You'll be good for 400 hp with it as well.

      If you're dead set on not buying a kit for whatever reason (It really is your best option).... go to a GT35 or 6262 with a .63 T3 hotside on either... no sense in wasting your time on anything smaller for the amount of money a good turbo costs.

    7. Member tdmopar59's Avatar
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      09-29-2011 09:30 AM #32
      The 60 trim kit sounds better than I originally thought it would be. I think thats what I might run (initially at least lol). I'm looking into my options as far as getting the motor ready.

    8. Member tdmopar59's Avatar
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      09-29-2011 12:50 PM #33
      I've been looking around online for bottom end parts. I was going to do oem bearings, possibly the performance rings from German auto parts unless oem is better, mk4 head gasket kit? Input? What benefits if any would I see if I did have my head done. And the other question is are there any cams that work well both with forced induction and naturally aspirated applications? I don't wanna be bored while I save for boost Haha. Thanks for the help! There is so much info out there I feel like I've been studying for a final the past couple days with all the reading I've been doing on here Haha

    9. Member V-dubbulyuh's Avatar
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      09-29-2011 01:01 PM #34
      Quote Originally Posted by djsheijkdfj View Post
      go to a GT35 or 6262 with a .63 T3 hotside on either... no sense in wasting your time on anything smaller for the amount of money a good turbo costs.
      Agreed, GT30 on a VR is a joke.
      "OP sounds like a MKIV guy"

    10. Member Salsa GTI's Avatar
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      09-29-2011 01:05 PM #35
      Quote Originally Posted by tdmopar59 View Post
      [1. Should I get cams? Which cams would work well both naturally aspirated and with forced induction.

      2. Schimmel Performance is about a mile from my house and I was thinking of having him do my head while I had it out. Should I just have the head redone? Also get springs and lifters?

      Take money and flush it down the toilet.....it works better

      3. Is a stock sachs clutch and a lightweight flywheel a good clutch for my situation or what would be a better fit for a similar price?

      Clutch for your goal in HP/TQ......and add a tiny bit more...because you will tire of 12-15 psi

      Thanks for the help!!
      As for the rest...i agree with pretty much all of the above posts....and 325whp is 8v power....lol
      Just kiddding....at that power level the engine wont even be working hard
      Read everything you can...learn from others...buy your parts carefully and have fun

    11. Member V-dubbulyuh's Avatar
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      09-29-2011 01:07 PM #36
      Quote Originally Posted by tdmopar59 View Post
      I was going to do oem bearings, possibly the performance rings from German auto parts unless oem is better, mk4 head gasket kit? Input?
      I would not recommend this at all, especially since you are going to use a chip tune. If anything I'd be considering a headspacer not a MK4 headgasket which will increase compression.

      For 300hp having the head modded is a waste of time and money. If you have money to burn I will provide you my Paypal address and you can make a sizeable deposit just for shyttss and giggles.

      262's are the popular cam choice for moderate power goals due to their price (also works well both NA & FI).
      "OP sounds like a MKIV guy"

    12. Member tdmopar59's Avatar
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      09-29-2011 01:12 PM #37
      Okay the head gasket situation has had me a little confused. So a head spacer lowers compression the mk4 must raise it than... Should I just get a stock one since I'm not going huge power and it will be n/a for a while or get a spacer? 262's do seem decent for the money and should make the next year more fun but I'm starting to think I might turbo and than modify later if need be ( and by need I mean want Haha )
      Last edited by tdmopar59; 09-29-2011 at 01:14 PM.

    13. Member V-dubbulyuh's Avatar
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      09-29-2011 01:29 PM #38
      Quote Originally Posted by tdmopar59 View Post
      Okay the head gasket situation has had me a little confused. So a head spacer lowers compression the mk4 must raise it than... Should I just get a stock one since I'm not going huge power and it will be n/a for a while or get a spacer?
      That question is going to open a whole can of worms. I suggest you search carefully about the different compression ratios currently available. You are going to get varying responses on what compression ratio to run but this is what I suggest.

      1. Stay the **** away from Mk3 headgaskets as they are horrible (composite card-like material) and do not like boost very much. Especially if it is the original one (making it at least > 10yrs old). If you start getting too boost happy it will blow out on you. These gaskets can be used only if you are very timid with the boost and assuming that it is in decent condition to begin with (but how would you know this unless you removed it for inspection).

      2. I would not recommend running a Mk4 headgasket if you intend to turbo your car, again especially because you are going to run a chip and not a customized stand alone system on race gas etc. You are playing with fire with that high compression, high intake temp, aggressive timing combination. Good luck!

      3. A stainless steel headspacer by any of the "reputable" companies out there will lower your compression enough to keep you out of trouble when you start dialing up the boost. I am not even to suggest which one (brand nor compression level) for you to go with as that is very subjective.

      4. If you must (whatever that means)stay stock compression there are some companies that make stainless gaskets that maintain stock compression and don't have the vulnerability that your Mk3 OEM gasket has.
      "OP sounds like a MKIV guy"

    14. Member tdmopar59's Avatar
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      09-29-2011 01:50 PM #39
      Looks like that's my next section to research. And as far as rings... If I wanna go more power in the future (nothing insane) do I still just need rings? What are people using oem or aftermarket?? Thanks for all the input its greatly appreciated

    15. Banned SVTDanny's Avatar
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      09-29-2011 01:53 PM #40
      If the bottom end comes apart, you will need a hone & rings. Well..... you technically don't "need" them, but you'd be asking for trouble by assembling it back the way it came apart. I wouldn't recommend anything other than OEM rings.

      I wouldn't recommend lower than 9:1 compression.... my car is at 9.5:1 and I'm @ 17 lbs on a 6262, no melted pistons thusfar....

    16. Member tdmopar59's Avatar
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      09-29-2011 02:07 PM #41
      Quote Originally Posted by djsheijkdfj View Post
      If the bottom end comes apart, you will need a hone & rings. Well..... you technically don't "need" them, but you'd be asking for trouble by assembling it back the way it came apart. I wouldn't recommend anything other than OEM rings.

      I wouldn't recommend lower than 9:1 compression.... my car is at 9.5:1 and I'm @ 17 lbs on a 6262, no melted pistons thusfar....
      17psi on stock pistons with fresh rings? Thats awesome! Which rings? That's why my goal is about 12 psi at 325hp so I can turn it up get more boost and power when I wanna go wild

    17. Banned SVTDanny's Avatar
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      09-29-2011 02:20 PM #42
      Not quite.... my bottom end was bored to 2.9 and I have Wiseco 9:1 pistons. I'm using the MKIV gasket so my final compression is somewhere between 9:1 and 9.5:1. I used the Wiseco rings since they are oversized and made for the pistons, but if you are using stock 81mm pistons, OEM rings are more than fine to use.

      I would more than likely still be using OEM pistons, but I bought my car blown up to rebuild it, and found some scoring in the cylinder walls so I was forced to bore it out. I would also still be using the Kinetic 60 trim turbo that came with the car, but I managed to trash it as well, and went ahead and upgraded to the 6262....
      Last edited by SVTDanny; 09-29-2011 at 02:22 PM.

    18. Member tdmopar59's Avatar
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      09-29-2011 02:34 PM #43
      I see. So stock pistons with fresh rings are fine to boost up to what Psi and HP ? I will have to organize all my research at the end of my research to help people out in the future.

    19. Banned SVTDanny's Avatar
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      09-29-2011 02:37 PM #44
      There's a VR6 running bottom 10's and trapping 150 MPH on a bone stock bottom end... it's more than stout enough for what you want to do. I don't know the record for a stock bottom end VR, but I would guess somewhere in the 600-700hp neighborhood, maybe more.

    20. Member tdmopar59's Avatar
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      09-29-2011 03:26 PM #45
      Quote Originally Posted by djsheijkdfj View Post
      There's a VR6 running bottom 10's and trapping 150 MPH on a bone stock bottom end... it's more than stout enough for what you want to do. I don't know the record for a stock bottom end VR, but I would guess somewhere in the 600-700hp neighborhood, maybe more.
      Well that's 100% awesome Haha. Great news though saves me some $$$

    21. Member tdmopar59's Avatar
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      09-29-2011 06:14 PM #46
      I'm having a problem trying to see how the whole headspacer situation works out. I feel like 10:1 might limit my boost but a 9:1 would suck while naturally aspirated....

    22. Banned SVTDanny's Avatar
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      09-29-2011 07:45 PM #47
      Don't go lower than 9:1 and you'll be fine. There will be little difference in driveability at that point. Once you get into the 8's and lower, then it starts to feel "mushy" off boost.

    23. Member tdmopar59's Avatar
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      09-29-2011 10:28 PM #48
      Here are the two kits I'm looking at... are the grant piston rings any good or should i stick with oem?

      http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/p...oducts_id=2552

      http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/p...oducts_id=3974

    24. 09-29-2011 10:30 PM #49
      Build it once. Think long and hard about your end goal for the car. Are you power hungry, trying to impress people, drag racer, get bored easy? If so then go 8.5:1 spacer off the bat IMO bc your going to push the setup on 93 octane most likely. If your going to wanna push 20-25psi on the street then why play with high compression. There are exceptions, but traditionally what compression have OE manufacturers chosen for higher boost turbo engines? 8-8.5:1.

      I went 9:1 b/c I don't need to run 20 psi on the street
      -15psi on the street on 93 octane is enough to kill 99.9% of what I run into and also saves my trans. A ferrari found out last weekend what 400hp in a 2600lb. car can do.
      -20psi at the track with a 50/50 93/105 octane mix is enough to trap 130mph and run right up to roll bar limit.

      Unless your talking about some serious power and this is going to be a drag car leave the bottom end/head alone. Boost, intercooler, spacer, cams, full exhaust, chip tune. All you need. Anything more on a non race car is not needed and not based on logic.
      93' Corrado SLC Turbo-11.490@128.76mph-street car
      96' Volvo 854R-ready for more boost
      Allmotor VW's are slow
      Race cars are for people with an inferiority complex

    25. 09-29-2011 10:32 PM #50
      Quote Originally Posted by tdmopar59 View Post
      Here are the two kits I'm looking at... are the grant piston rings any good or should i stick with oem?

      http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/p...oducts_id=2552

      http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/p...oducts_id=3974
      OEM is all you need man. I rebuilt my motor and everything is OEM except for the ARP headstuds and the C2 9:1 spacer. 20psi is nothing.
      93' Corrado SLC Turbo-11.490@128.76mph-street car
      96' Volvo 854R-ready for more boost
      Allmotor VW's are slow
      Race cars are for people with an inferiority complex

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