Doing things right this time. Pics to come.

[hootyburra]

4-17/13 Update.
Turbo will be back tomorrow hoping to have everything installed and running by next weekend.
Have the wiring ran to the hatch for battery relocate, need to find a mounting spot and wire in the fuses. I also need to decide what battery I am going to run(any suggestions? )

New bumper will be ordered and fresh paint in the next two months.

1-18-13 Update.

Replaced coil pack harness and added 2.0T coils.
I am having issues with misfires. (BKR7E's )
I started at .035 down to .026 now. Changed plugs twice.
The gap did not help at all.
Misfires are only at part throttle.

Under boost everything is fine.

Any suggestions?

12-5-12 (Much needed update)
For anyone still following

I have been daily driving the car since the end of July.
I am still working on the tune, this seems to be a never ending process.
At this point I am pretty happy with it; still have a few issues that I feel are beyond my knowledge right now. The car is violent. 26psi(21psi WG spring + 5 with MBC)
Full spool comes on right around 4k and pulls till the rev limiter I set at 7700 in Maestro.
Traction is a major issue in 1st 2nd and 3rd. At 21 3rd was ok, at 26 3rd is wheelspin.
I plan on working on this more in the spring, boost by gear and most likely radials. LSD will be next year. I want to focus on the looks of the car and horrendous engine bay.

On the list of things to do.
Battery relocate,
Clean up lines and wires.
New dipstick tube
Tap cold side for WG pressure source, running off IM now (this will be done soon. I need to decide on a coupler tap or drill and tap the compressor.
New paint, front bumper, hood, smooth rub strips etc.
Fab shield for 034 surge.

Enough blabbing for now.
Pictures from a few minutes ago.








7-22-12.
It's alive, idle is complete sh!t. I'm not even getting a reading on the AEM for a/f.
I tried logging block 32 in Maestro while I was holding the rpm around 2.
I was not seeing any reading.

I am using the 870 base file from Chris.

Cold side IC piping is disconnected.
Smells like sh!t, like burn your throat from the fumes.


Any suggestions?


Will not having the IC piping have that big of an effect?





4-26 Edit.
Haven't had much time to update this...
I have started reconnecting wiring, enough to get the initial log for Chris.
I am most likely going to unplug it all again and start rerouting it.
I already split alot of the sensors apart and rewrapped the factory harness.

I received the 034 and 044 from unnaturaly aspirated, great seller, Picked up the Russell adapters for the stock lines. I really don't like how they stick out of the bay like 2 saplings.
I am really leaning towards running new lines from the filter.... Could I run a -4 braided from the filter to the surge; reason I ask is I can get a hell of a deal on premade braided from my machine shop... I can pass it on to you

I am also thinking about relocating the battery... This would give me room to mount the surge/pump... I don't like it on the passenger side where the coolant ball was.
I have also contemplated mounting it behind the rear tire, I would rather keep the pump close to the rail...

Lots of ideas, I will have time to work on the car now, I received a promotion at work
11 edit.
Motor is in the car.

Need to figure out a surge tank setup, or do I? The stock intank has it's own surge tank incorporated, could I just run an 044 inline and not have to worry below 1/4 tank?
I have been reading for most of the morning on this issue.

I am also talking with a very helpful memeber here about a top secret idea

I also came across this picture Why couldn't I run the 044 right off the tank?
so stock feed into the top of the surge, pump off the bottom off the surge to the rail, return from fpr back to surge, surge back to stock return.... Do you read me major tom?




4-3 edit.
Mounted the rest of the turbo parts. Have to run some misc lines and it can go back in the car.

I am worried about the routing of the coolant and oil drain lines.


Made my own gasket because one wasn't included




3-30




3-21 EDIT
Should have it home this weekend







2-2 Edit.
Here are pics that show the guide pin issue












1-9 Update
Alright I need a new cam chain tensioner. ...
AEB is non VVT, correct

I still have the harness for VVT...

Question is, Do I order the replacement CCT w VVT from MJM, or run non VVT?
What is the part number for non vvt cct?

I just want to get this damn thing back together already Machine shop has everything else done. Oh I also need a part number for cam cap screws, can't find them anywhere


11-9 Update.
Received a nice box of parts from CTS a few days ago. Haven't had much time to get anything done.

Here is what I have
x Supertech valves
x Supertech spring and retainer kit
x OEM lifter set
x Supertech valve seal kit
x Cam chain
x 06A IE manual timing belt kit with water pump
x 06A IE Dowel pinned crank gear
x ARP head bolt kit
x 06A Crank bolt, OEM


I still need to order
software(maestro),
injectors(ID 1000's ?),
Turbo setup(Is it worth the extra money to upgrade to the water cooled 5857? With the hours I am working the cash for that won't be an issue.)
Cluthc(FX400 w steel flywheel)
ARP Flywheel bolts.
FMIC Setup
Other misc fluids, etc

EDIT 10-23
I believe I have an ADR head.
Part numbers I found are:
058 103 373 A, 03050994wz, 058 A 13, 058 351 E


The issue I am having is the guide pins on the block are not lining up with the holes on the head.

The pins on the block are 10 3/4", the wholes on the head are at 9 3/4"
The head-gasket lines up fine with the holes on the head but it doesn't line up with the pins on the block...
I can get pics if that makes it easier. ..

Also what does everyone use to remove the valve springs?
Autozones rental is to big.
I saw posts with people using various tools, I don't want to mar the walls for the lifters.


Edit 10-11
Have the stroker motor 9.0:1 compression
Need to find a clutch and flywheel setup, recommendations? I am leaning toward the fx400 but am still considering a double puck.

I will be running the 5857, it's looking like CTS will be supplying it.

Ordered an RMR intake mani and DLI motor mounts.
I have both raxles
The transmission is fixed, need to decide on fluid. MT90?

I will be building the AEB head with schrick cams, 252/260
I am most like going to use supertech valvetrain components and stock intake valves.
I will be replacing all of the lifters and seals.

I am still torn between a manual timing tensioner setup.




Specs on the motor.
2008cc stroker motor - Motor was built by 034 motorsports using their stroker kit
New 2.0L FSI crankshaft w/ correct 06A/06B oil pump gear pressed on
Supertech 83MM forged pistons in 9.0:1 compression
Scat 144/20 forged connecting rods
Coated Main and Rod Bearings

I have decided it's time for a proper setup in my car.
I had lost first gear a few weeks ago and before pulling the transmission to get it fixed I decided to beat on it and have some fun. ... Long story short the clutch didn't like 6k launches in second.
I will have those carnage pictures up later.

After fighting with the 02M removal, not listening to wiser members on this forum who told me to pull the motor, I made the decision that I am not putting the transmission in without building the motor.
A friend and fellow member AudiTTor offered me his current motor and head. It is a deal I can't turn down.
Specs for that are:


I am taking the transmission to APtuning tomorrow to be fixed and having the shift fork tapped and strengthened while it is apart.

I have a passenger side raxle on the way and the driver-side is already here. For Marty he is a great guy, very helpful and informative.



I am torn between which kit I want to buy and which turbo to run.
All of the ebay(EMUSA) kit is coming off the car. I will be reusing the IC piping and replacing the core. I was surprised at how well it has held up and it still has no issues. 20psi daily driven and abused.
I figure that I am doing everything else and I don't want to deal with that ATP mani ever again.

CTS is my first choice. Clay has been extremely helpful.
Al has also been a great help.


I am looking for something that will be great on the highway but also good in town. I don't mind the late spool, this should help with fuel efficiency once I lose the lead foot.


Questions that I have are:
1. Will the 630's be enough for the 5857, could I run a 4bar fpr if needed?
2. What is your favorite kit, CTS, PAG, or FFE?
I am looking for something that will be great on the highway but also good in town. I don't mind the late spool, this should help with fuel efficiency once I lose the lead foot.
4. Other things I am forgetting and will ask as I remember.

I am really looking forward to the end result.

[hootyburra]

Can I run a stock AEB intake manifold? Will there be fitment issues?

[seth_3515]

yeah, but if you are building the head, and going, with the turbo is there any way you could get an SEM or custom? I know money can be an issue, if it is just use the stocker.. I went with the 870's, but i want like 29-30psi daily. The 5857 will definitely push the limits on the 630's with 4 bar IIRC.. have to work the formulas again or try to find the originals. I had the same questions you did.

FIY- got a 5857 BB and ordered the pagparts mani and DP. Should be shipped this week

[seth_3515]

also did you go with the IE dowel rod kit? Money is kinda tight so im wondering if I can get by for a few months (3-4) before tearing into it again..

[20thAEGti1009]

Definitely a fan of the FFE kits. You can't go wrong with one of there mini me kits.

[hootyburra]

I looked at the mini me.
I really want something V-Banded to make it super easy to swap turbos down the road.

[hootyburra]

I am trying to find the part # for the aeb intake manifold gasket.
I am going to pick one up and port my stock one out the best I can till I can pic up an aftermarket IM.

I called autozone and asked if they had one for a 99 A4 and he said yes, when I look on rockauto the gasket is the same for the 99 A4,AEB, and an 02 gti

[screwball]

I popped on a PAG bottom mount kit on earlier today and it went together like clockwork. It was worlds better than the ATP stuff it replaced. I should've just done this from the get go 3yrs ago.

Pag T3 BM Mani
50 Trim
Tial F38 WG
Rerouted Downpipe
Swapped TB to DS side - Noodle with all the wiring to fit
Apex Tuning DS IC plumbing

[hootyburra]

How much nicer is it to have the vband many then the t3 flange?

[screwball]

One nut vs 4 is a big step up as far as I'm concerned - I would've loved to have gone Vband everything, but I was in a unique position w/ the old style Tial 38 (pretty sure the newer mani's are all Vband) I have and a T3 footprint. Custom tailoring little details and bits really seems to be the great part about working with PAG. You ultimately get something that is setup for you and your car. I sent him a used DP and my turbo and he jigged it all up to his mani w/ a rerouted dump that fit just about perfectly come installation time. The manifold was on in minutes instead of hours. Honestly, I can't say enough good things about these setups.

What you don't get w/ one of these kits:

Torturous installation
Warped flanges
Thin wall - subpar materials
Plumbing (Downpipe or IC) that rubs on everything
Crappy hardware
Crappy oil lines

PM me if you have more questions.

[20thAEGti1009]

I looked at the mini me.
I really want something V-Banded to make it super easy to swap turbos down the road.

Pretty sure FFE will vband just about anything you want. They are also a great bunch of guys to deal with. If your looking for the best there really is no other options IMO.

[pete@integrated]

630's @ 4 bar will not be enough for a 5857- if you use it / push it hard.

FWIW, the 02m drops in/out pretty easily, if you drain it and take off both axle cups.

[TooLFan46n2]

..... Custom tailoring little details and bits really seems to be the great part about working with PAG. You ultimately get something that is setup for you and your car. I sent him a used DP and my turbo and he jigged it all up to his mani w/ a rerouted dump that fit just about perfectly come installation time. The manifold was on in minutes instead of hours. Honestly, I can't say enough good things about these setups.

What you don't get w/ one of these kits:

Torturous installation
Warped flanges
Thin wall - subpar materials
Plumbing (Downpipe or IC) that rubs on everything
Crappy hardware
Crappy oil lines

PM me if you have more questions.

Yeah he does great work. Heres a pic of the T3/T4 Quattro downpipe w/ o2 recirc he jigged up to fit a golf chassis/firewall entrance for me. He never made on like this before; fitment was perfect and my car was 200 miles away. My setup is awesome to work on I never have to fight with anything.

[hootyburra]

630's @ 4 bar will not be enough for a 5857- if you use it / push it hard.

FWIW, the 02m drops in/out pretty easily, if you drain it and take off both axle cups.

Not taking off the cups was my mistake...

What injectors would be good? Looks like I need a new tune also.

[pete@integrated]

Ya, I've done that too, left them on trying to save time... Not so much

An 830/870 will work, or a 1000, just depends who you are using for tuning and what they have which will run good on an injector in that ballpark. A lot of the files in that size are pretty rough compared to the 630cc files

[velocity196]

630's @ 4 bar will not be enough for a 5857- if you use it / push it hard.

FWIW, the 02m drops in/out pretty easily, if you drain it and take off both axle cups.

Really all you need it the pass cup out and it slides right in. It's heavy to lift by hand but with a picker or a lift of some kind theres a eye let or ear let to pick it from the top. Easy squeezy, no oil drain or anything

Not taking off the cups was my mistake...

What injectors would be good? Looks like I need a new tune also.

Lucas 830's are great injectors. Any bigger and go ID1000's or 1200's

[hootyburra]

It looks like I am picking up the Tapp 1000cc file also.


I have been talking with Clay and he has been very helpful so far.
for great communication.

[sledge0001]

It looks like I am picking up the Tapp 1000cc file also.


I have been talking with Clay and he has been very helpful so far.
for great communication.

Vband ONLY!!! It will save you hours of wrenching...

I swear by my pagparts setup where I swore at my ATP setup

[groggory]

Yeah he does great work. Heres a pic of the T3/T4 Quattro downpipe w/ o2 recirc he jigged up to fit a golf chassis/firewall entrance for me. He never made on like this before; fitment was perfect and my car was 200 miles away. My setup is awesome to work on I never have to fight with anything.

(and a loose bolt)

[schwartzmagic]

I really want something V-Banded to make it super easy to swap turbos down the road.

Installing or re-installing is a PITA if you don't have a lift and are doing it by yourself. Holding up the turbo with one arm and trying to get the v-band clamp on and tightened is tricky. Even more so, my case, when you're on the floor with the car on jack stands

How much nicer is it to have the vband many then the t3 flange?

See above

One nut vs 4 is a big step up as far as I'm concerned

Tell me installing wasn't a total breeze with the vband clamp? That **** is a PITA sometimes. More so after the clamps have gone through several heat cycles.

[screwball]

I couldn't tell you cause I'm T3 man, and I didn't bolt the turbo to the manifold before I popped it all in so there's one problematic nut by the center section that was a pain in the balls to reach from under the car, but if that's the worst of my problems I'm fine. I "pulled" my ATP mani w/ a cut off wheel for comparison, I won't even get in to that saga.

[velocity196]

V bands are awesome! I only have them on my DP but if I ever get rid of my kinetic manifold, it's going v band everything!

[hootyburra]

Have the motor pulled.
The freon leak when I loosened the AC lines was pretty neat.
Transmission will be done by next week.
Trashed second gear hub and synchro.

Will probably move the PS reservoir and delete the coolant ball.

[hootyburra]

more pics

[IAmTheNacho]

If your talking about a front wheel drive 02M the easiest way to pull and install is to leave the transmission completely intact and drop the subframe and let it float. 4 bolts no cups to remove very simple. Although im spoiled and dont have the rust situation most do outside of Arizona.

[hootyburra]

picked up an engine stand at HF today.
Forgot to get longer bolts to secure it

I am thinking about relocating the power steering reservoir to under the wiper tank, removing the coolant ball and getting rid of the wiper tank. This should clean up the passenger side alot.

[wagner17]

love my stand from hf

[AudiTToR]

I am thinking about relocating the power steering reservoir to under the wiper tank, removing the coolant ball and getting rid of the wiper tank. This should clean up the passenger side alot.

We should really look at doing this on my TT. Perhaps i could mount a surge tank over there with the 044 and wouldnt have to worry about slosh off the launch.

[tedgram]

I need to clean up my engine bay also hardly have room for just the fuel pump.

[hootyburra]

We should really look at doing this on my TT. Perhaps i could mount a surge tank over there with the 044 and wouldnt have to worry about slosh off the launch.

It doesn't look to hard. Get that motor to PA

[hootyburra]

I am going to be tucking some wires on the passenger side and cleaning that area up.

[hootyburra]

Found a good deal on a CTS 50 trim kit.

Thinking about running this with the AEB head.

26 psi should be plenty of fun right?

[screwball]

PMs are full hooty

50 trim at 25+ w/ big port stuff and cams should bring you well over 400wheel.

[Big_Tom]

im glad you decided not to get the 5857. running 26 psi on a 50 trim is sick. i have run 25/26 psi before and i wish i could do it daily lol. i need rods i run 22.5 psi daily, but the extra 3/4 psi is also, you know i have the small port so big port would be even nastier. AND you got cams

[hootyburra]

I cleared the pm's awhile ago.
They should go through now.

Now the question is CTS kit or PAG, or ffe?

The CTS kit seems to be the most complete kit.
I'm not really worried about nuts and bolts. I can get them easy.