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Thread: Doing things right this time. Pics to come.

  1. Member MKIII_96's Avatar
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    10-03-2011 06:51 PM #36
    i would go ffe mini me kit
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  2. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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    10-03-2011 10:12 PM #37
    go pagparts or cts
    My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, GodSpeed Aluminum Radiator, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

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    10-04-2011 12:08 AM #38
    Quote Originally Posted by Big_Tom View Post
    go pagparts
    oh and OP, upgrade my old file if you havent already. i had that ECU setup for 630s back in 2007!
    Take a second and thank a Veteran.

  4. Member hootyburra's Avatar
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    10-04-2011 12:52 AM #39
    sent you a PM boosted.
    CTS 3076 kit, CTS 750hp FMIC, CM FX400, 2L, AEB, RMR IM, Raxles, Eurodyne, 870's...

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    10-04-2011 12:05 PM #40
    Pagparts. It is worth the wait.

    The iron he uses is better than what garrett uses for their exhausty heaty stuff. It even smells different when you grind it flat or sand it flat.

  6. Member sledge0001's Avatar
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    10-04-2011 12:14 PM #41
    Quote Originally Posted by gdoggmoney View Post
    Pagparts. It is worth the wait.
    No doubt. Pagparts all the way.
    Quote Originally Posted by Arin@APR View Post
    I'm outta here... you guys are idiots. You can quote me on that and throw it in all of your sigs.

  7. 10-04-2011 12:22 PM #42
    Haha...equal length or bust.

    mini me, cts, and pag do not compare.

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    10-04-2011 12:25 PM #43
    Quote Originally Posted by AudiTToR View Post
    Haha...equal length or bust.

    mini me, cts, and pag do not compare.


    Verdict is out for long term reliability. I know Ed has insane fabrication skills and does it right, but you are asking a welded tube manifold with a flange to stand up to be glowing red, hit giant potholes and bumps at speed, cool down, and vibrate like mad.

    I'm no fanboy, I like to pick the best solution regardless of who makes it. For a daily
    driven type street car an iron manifold is a requirement to me..

    I don't want to be in Colorado on vacation or a random trip and find my manifold cracked and I need to find someone to tig it etc

  9. 10-04-2011 01:29 PM #44
    Quote Originally Posted by gdoggmoney View Post
    I don't want to be in Colorado on vacation or a random trip and find my manifold cracked and I need to find someone to tig it etc
    Then Wrap it. no more worries, its braced by itself.

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    10-04-2011 01:38 PM #45
    Quote Originally Posted by AudiTToR View Post
    Then Wrap it. no more worries, its braced by itself.

  11. Member schwartzmagic's Avatar
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    10-04-2011 02:48 PM #46
    Quote Originally Posted by AudiTToR View Post
    Haha...equal length or bust.

    mini me, cts, and pag do not compare.
    X 2 lol

    Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

  12. Member MKIII_96's Avatar
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    10-04-2011 05:31 PM #47
    Quote Originally Posted by AudiTToR View Post
    Haha...equal length or bust.

    mini me, cts, and pag do not compare.
    x3 but i had to choose one of the companies he posted. i would choose any 3 but the cars that roll out off ffe are insane so i chose them
    Blue ECS lightweight/under drive pulley's for sale! Crank/Alt/PS
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  13. Member hootyburra's Avatar
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    10-04-2011 06:14 PM #48
    A stroker motor is going in.
    Need to find a clutch and flywheel setup, recommendations?
    Can I run the G60 flywheel I keep reading about when looking for info?

    Specs on the motor.
    2008cc stroker motor - Motor was built by 034 motorsports using their stroker kit
    New 2.0L FSI crankshaft w/ correct 06A/06B oil pump gear pressed on
    Supertech 83MM forged pistons in 9.0:1 compression
    Scat 144/20 forged connecting rods
    Short block is fully assembled and awaiting a new home.
    Coated Main and Rod Bearings

    Should I try and budget for a bigger turbo then the 50 trim?
    Then I will have to upgrade the fueling and tune, correct? 630's will max out around 425whp?
    Last edited by hootyburra; 10-04-2011 at 06:16 PM.
    CTS 3076 kit, CTS 750hp FMIC, CM FX400, 2L, AEB, RMR IM, Raxles, Eurodyne, 870's...

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  14. Member Twopnt016v's Avatar
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    10-04-2011 06:39 PM #49
    Quote Originally Posted by hootyburra View Post
    A stroker motor is going in.
    Need to find a clutch and flywheel setup, recommendations?
    Can I run the G60 flywheel I keep reading about when looking for info?

    Specs on the motor.
    2008cc stroker motor - Motor was built by 034 motorsports using their stroker kit
    New 2.0L FSI crankshaft w/ correct 06A/06B oil pump gear pressed on
    Supertech 83MM forged pistons in 9.0:1 compression
    Scat 144/20 forged connecting rods
    Short block is fully assembled and awaiting a new home.
    Coated Main and Rod Bearings

    Should I try and budget for a bigger turbo then the 50 trim?
    Then I will have to upgrade the fueling and tune, correct? 630's will max out around 425whp?
    You can not run that flywheel with a 6 speed tranny....5speed..yes

  15. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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    10-04-2011 06:41 PM #50
    See my fueling thread (and bobQ's thread linked in there) for the max power possible by each injector.

    Just my $.02...

    Get some Lucas 830 injectors and the Unitronics MAFless 830 file. It's pretty rock solid and will fuel most things you can throw at it.
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  16. Member hootyburra's Avatar
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    10-04-2011 06:52 PM #51
    Quote Originally Posted by groggory View Post
    See my fueling thread (and bobQ's thread linked in there) for the max power possible by each injector.

    Just my $.02...

    Get some Lucas 830 injectors and the Unitronics MAFless 830 file. It's pretty rock solid and will fuel most things you can throw at it.
    Looks like I am selling the Eurodyne afterall. I will see what I can do to get it upgraded first.
    CTS 3076 kit, CTS 750hp FMIC, CM FX400, 2L, AEB, RMR IM, Raxles, Eurodyne, 870's...

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  17. Member schwartzmagic's Avatar
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    10-04-2011 06:55 PM #52
    Quote Originally Posted by hootyburra View Post
    Need to find a clutch and flywheel setup, recommendations?
    Can I run the G60 flywheel I keep reading about when looking for info?

    Should I try and budget for a bigger turbo then the 50 trim?
    Then I will have to upgrade the fueling and tune, correct? 630's will max out around 425whp?
    If you're gonna spend money on a clutch/flywheel kit I would go with Clutchmasters. If you are gonna be daily-ing the car go with a FX400, 6 puck clutch, steel flywheel. If you're drag-racing the car only, FX725 twin disk, aluminum flywheel. They also have an FX850 twin disk. Not too sure about the specs on that one other than its 8.50" vs the 7.25" FX725. G60 fw works with the 5 speeds not the 6.

    Contact Marc @ VAPmotorsports. He will hook you up with great pricing. Tell him I sent you.

    I would budget for a bigger turbo than a 50 trim but it all depends on what your goals are. Since you have that 2L block you may as well take advantage of that extra displacement by getting a turbo > a 50 trim. My $0.02. But again, it all depends on what your goals are. lots of people start off small and eventually go bigger. why waste money 2 or 3 or 4 times? Go bigger the first time.

  18. Member hootyburra's Avatar
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    10-04-2011 08:01 PM #53
    Quote Originally Posted by schwartzmagic View Post
    If you're gonna spend money on a clutch/flywheel kit I would go with Clutchmasters. If you are gonna be daily-ing the car go with a FX400, 6 puck clutch, steel flywheel. If you're drag-racing the car only, FX725 twin disk, aluminum flywheel. They also have an FX850 twin disk. Not too sure about the specs on that one other than its 8.50" vs the 7.25" FX725. G60 fw works with the 5 speeds not the 6.

    Contact Marc @ VAPmotorsports. He will hook you up with great pricing. Tell him I sent you.

    I would budget for a bigger turbo than a 50 trim but it all depends on what your goals are. Since you have that 2L block you may as well take advantage of that extra displacement by getting a turbo > a 50 trim. My $0.02. But again, it all depends on what your goals are. lots of people start off small and eventually go bigger. why waste money 2 or 3 or 4 times? Go bigger the first time.
    I will get in touch with him tomorrow.
    The 60-1 is still to small?
    Back to the 5857? 6262? What will spill be like with the 2L?
    Any informative thread on this?
    CTS 3076 kit, CTS 750hp FMIC, CM FX400, 2L, AEB, RMR IM, Raxles, Eurodyne, 870's...

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  19. Member pielout's Avatar
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    BT JB 20th #0818
    10-04-2011 10:07 PM #54
    i was in the same boat as you and ended up with the FFE mini-me kit...it was either them or pag cus i wanted a bottom mount kit due to stealthyness and i hear about the extra heat in the engine bay due to top mount....i have yet to install since the motor is getting a complete overhaul and i just like you will be tucking some wires, the craftsmanship on the fabrication is flawless im sure whatever you decide you will enjoy

    cpl of pics:

    WeTdUb

  20. Member hootyburra's Avatar
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    10-05-2011 10:08 AM #55
    Pieout- How long did it take for you to get the FFE kit?
    I see they have a 4-6 week time on there webpage.


    Other questions.
    IE timing belt kit?
    ARP hardware obviously. Head Studs, Bolts?
    Is it worth the extra money to upgrade from the journal bearing?
    What about the 60-1 with the stroker?

    Does anyone have dynos?

    Will gas mileage be improved or worsen with different compression assuming I stay out of boost?

    I will most likely upgrade to an 044 pump since I don't think the 255 will be enough.
    CTS 3076 kit, CTS 750hp FMIC, CM FX400, 2L, AEB, RMR IM, Raxles, Eurodyne, 870's...

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  21. Member pielout's Avatar
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    BT JB 20th #0818
    10-05-2011 11:08 AM #56
    Quote Originally Posted by hootyburra View Post
    Pieout- How long did it take for you to get the FFE kit?
    I see they have a 4-6 week time on there webpage.

    .
    It actually took them almost ten weeks due to them having 3 other kits ordered around the same time and only 1 welder in house, also they were waiting on vender parts, but worth the wait
    WeTdUb

  22. 10-05-2011 11:23 AM #57
    Quote Originally Posted by gdoggmoney View Post
    Verdict is out for long term reliability. I know Ed has insane fabrication skills and does it right, but you are asking a welded tube manifold with a flange to stand up to be glowing red, hit giant potholes and bumps at speed, cool down, and vibrate like mad.

    I'm no fanboy, I like to pick the best solution regardless of who makes it. For a daily
    driven type street car an iron manifold is a requirement to me..

    I don't want to be in Colorado on vacation or a random trip and find my manifold cracked and I need to find someone to tig it etc
    please show me one of eds tubular manifolds that has had an issue....this type of post comes up all the time and there is nothing to show for it that i have seen

    tubular vbanded or gtfo



    Quote Originally Posted by pielout View Post
    It actually took them almost ten weeks due to them having 3 other kits ordered around the same time and only 1 welder in house, also they were waiting on vender parts, but worth the wait
    i think i was down there as yours got finished and packed up

    best time to hit up ed is during the off season....not the middle of summer when everyone wants thier stuff done at the same time but the wait is worth the end result thats for sure
    Joosey - DubAudi - Banchwerks - ForceFed Engineering

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    Quote Originally Posted by uzi did it View Post
    you can compare me to kobe bryant of the vw world. i'm just that good.

  23. 10-05-2011 11:30 AM #58
    I don't think anyone's knocking Ed or FFE's welding capabilities, It's just the old cast vs tube debate.
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  24. 10-05-2011 11:34 AM #59
    Quote Originally Posted by screwball View Post
    I don't think anyone's knocking Ed or FFE's welding capabilities, It's just the old cast vs tube debate.
    thats kinda my point....if you have it done by a reputable welder who uses the correct materials you should have no problems at all
    Joosey - DubAudi - Banchwerks - ForceFed Engineering

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    Quote Originally Posted by uzi did it View Post
    you can compare me to kobe bryant of the vw world. i'm just that good.

  25. Member hootyburra's Avatar
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    10-05-2011 11:42 AM #60
    Quote Originally Posted by screwball View Post
    I don't think anyone's knocking Ed or FFE's welding capabilities, It's just the old cast vs tube debate.


    For me it is going to come down to the best prices and customer service.
    I see that all 3 have great quality parts. I have read so many pissing matches about who's is better and really there is no winner. All of them are great kits and will make great power with the right supporting mods.

    I am looking to buy the Ferrea Valvetrain
    A new turbo kit. The whole kit, turbo mani, dp, intake, lines, wg, hardware.
    I am selling everything that was on the car.
    A new FMIC. I'm still up in the air about buying a good core and using a universal piping setup. I want to go 2.5 all around.
    Large port Intake Mani
    New Injectors and probably pump.
    New clutch kit w/ steel flywheel.
    ARP head studs/bolts and ARP flywheel bolts.

    It will pretty much be a new car when things are done.
    CTS 3076 kit, CTS 750hp FMIC, CM FX400, 2L, AEB, RMR IM, Raxles, Eurodyne, 870's...

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  26. Member schwartzmagic's Avatar
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    10-05-2011 07:38 PM #61
    Quote Originally Posted by ForVWLife View Post
    tubular vbanded or gtfo



    Couldn't agree with you more



    lol

  27. Member hootyburra's Avatar
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    10-05-2011 10:33 PM #62
    They really do look awesome and like a quality mani but is the difference in price going to justify the gains?
    Is it a pita to take the turbo on and off trying to line up the vband and hold everything?
    CTS 3076 kit, CTS 750hp FMIC, CM FX400, 2L, AEB, RMR IM, Raxles, Eurodyne, 870's...

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  28. Member MKIII_96's Avatar
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    10-05-2011 10:40 PM #63
    youll probably lose a little low end because less back pressure from the tubular mani but youll make more power up top and it will feel smoother. and v-band is probably easier than anything to put on and off
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  29. 10-05-2011 10:52 PM #64
    Quote Originally Posted by hootyburra View Post
    They really do look awesome and like a quality mani but is the difference in price going to justify the gains?
    Is it a pita to take the turbo on and off trying to line up the vband and hold everything?
    putting a vband turbo on is a breeze...the flanges kinda slide together

    get the clamp on and tighten it down and align it as neccesary

    to me the extra cost of the manifold is worth the price of having vbands everywhere

    exhasut/turbo bolts and studs are the worst
    Joosey - DubAudi - Banchwerks - ForceFed Engineering

    PVW 9/11

    Quote Originally Posted by uzi did it View Post
    you can compare me to kobe bryant of the vw world. i'm just that good.

  30. Member hootyburra's Avatar
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    10-05-2011 10:53 PM #65
    I just started to glance at the long discussion on VVT. I have alot more reading to do when my mind isn't shot.

    With the AEB head, cams and stroker will I need the VVT?
    Can I have it tuned out by eurodyne/Chris?
    If so Just resistor it off...
    I saw a few things about rough starts and fuel trims but that seemed to be when it wasn't tuned out.
    CTS 3076 kit, CTS 750hp FMIC, CM FX400, 2L, AEB, RMR IM, Raxles, Eurodyne, 870's...

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    10-05-2011 11:28 PM #66
    Quote Originally Posted by ForVWLife View Post
    please show me one of eds tubular manifolds that has had an issue....this type of post comes up all the time and there is nothing to show for it that i have seen

    tubular vbanded or gtfo





    i think i was down there as yours got finished and packed up

    best time to hit up ed is during the off season....not the middle of summer when everyone wants thier stuff done at the same time but the wait is worth the end result thats for sure





    Listen bud. Ed is a gifted fabricator and I have seen his work. I have also seen many others with skills like his and hope myself one day I can do 3/4 of what he can with a tig.

    Facts are facts. Materials are materials. A thick iron casting when machined flat and not left to rust is reliable long term for 10+ years. Look at good castings on old things like a Volvo,
    Etc. They require decade gasket replacement and or machining flat/cleaning and new hardwar

    I've yet to see a tube manifold last like that, and when I'm in Washington state I don't want to find out that the heat cycle and glowing red to ambient and sub 0 temperature cycling did my beautiful tube header in.


    The mini me is short and well thought out, lots of welds thick and thick flanges. I'd run that on a street car cruiser. If I want rock sid reliability no questions? Quality casting.

    I drive everywhere and have a small toolbox with me. I don't have a tig and what I'd need to fix that properly 1500 miles from my garage, and sending it back to Ed while your car is there.... Have fun.

    Different applications, different tools and toys.

  32. Member hootyburra's Avatar
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    10-06-2011 07:54 AM #67
    Quote Originally Posted by gdoggmoney View Post
    Listen bud. Ed is a gifted fabricator and I have seen his work. I have also seen many others with skills like his and hope myself one day I can do 3/4 of what he can with a tig.

    Facts are facts. Materials are materials. A thick iron casting when machined flat and not left to rust is reliable long term for 10+ years. Look at good castings on old things like a Volvo,
    Etc. They require decade gasket replacement and or machining flat/cleaning and new hardwar

    I've yet to see a tube manifold last like that, and when I'm in Washington state I don't want to find out that the heat cycle and glowing red to ambient and sub 0 temperature cycling did my beautiful tube header in.


    The mini me is short and well thought out, lots of welds thick and thick flanges. I'd run that on a street car cruiser. If I want rock solid reliability no questions? Quality casting.

    I drive everywhere and have a small toolbox with me. I don't have a tig and what I'd need to fix that properly 1500 miles from my garage, and sending it back to Ed while your car is there.... Have fun.

    Different applications, different tools and toys.
    CTS 3076 kit, CTS 750hp FMIC, CM FX400, 2L, AEB, RMR IM, Raxles, Eurodyne, 870's...

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  33. 10-06-2011 09:13 AM #68
    Quote Originally Posted by gdoggmoney View Post
    Facts are facts. Materials are materials. A thick iron casting when machined flat and not left to rust is reliable long term for 10+ years. Look at good castings on old things like a Volvo,
    Etc. They require decade gasket replacement and or machining flat/cleaning and new hardwar

    I've yet to see a tube manifold last like that, and when I'm in Washington state I don't want to find out that the heat cycle and glowing red to ambient and sub 0 temperature cycling did my beautiful tube header in.


    The mini me is short and well thought out, lots of welds thick and thick flanges. I'd run that on a street car cruiser. If I want rock sid reliability no questions? Quality casting.

    I drive everywhere and have a small toolbox with me. I don't have a tig and what I'd need to fix that properly 1500 miles from my garage, and sending it back to Ed while your car is there.... Have fun.
    Ok....this is what it comes down to, the user is talking about maxing out big turbos. A lot of you spout of information and have no idea what you are actually talking about. Cast manifolds are great if you wanna chill in the 400whp rhelm. Sure they can be pushed further.....but at the end of the day a well built equal length can not be beat. You talk as if an equal length is gonna fall apart after a season....or two. You obviously have no idea what you are talking about. The hp gain is not even compariable. The flow is not even comparible.

    The kid is building a set up perfectly for a high flowing turbo to make huge numbers and lay down quality times at the track. If you do not have the correct knowledge, get the F out of the way.

    Sori...get an equal length mani, we will get it coated and wrap the dp. Don't listen to these losers nutswinging the products they bought because someone told them it was the best thing to do. You are almost on the forefront of the industry as far as building a fast car...there is no reason to listen to individuals who have never hit more than 400whp in their cars.

  34. Member hootyburra's Avatar
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    10-06-2011 07:17 PM #69
    CTS 3076 kit, CTS 750hp FMIC, CM FX400, 2L, AEB, RMR IM, Raxles, Eurodyne, 870's...

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  35. Member schwartzmagic's Avatar
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    10-06-2011 07:19 PM #70
    I'm not knocking cast manifolds, some people have made 550+ whp on them. I just like the tubular manifolds better. Theres no denying though that all drag cars looking to break records run tubular manifolds. Theres a reason for that.

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