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Thread: obd1 vr boost options.. help appreciated

  1. Member kushdubber's Avatar
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    09-27-2011 02:11 PM #1
    Converting my obd1 to obd2, then the exciting turbo build
    Last edited by kushdubber; 12-04-2011 at 08:57 PM.

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    09-28-2011 05:23 AM #2
    if you know what you are doing piecing your own kit would be ideal as you get the parts that you want... but if you dont the kinetic turbo kit is for you

    goodluck
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  3. Member kushdubber's Avatar
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    09-28-2011 11:13 AM #3
    These are my current parts for the build:

    Precision billet HP6262 68ar
    kinetic manifold
    kinetic 3" dp
    38mm tial wg
    Forge super dv
    C2 # 42 software and injectors
    4" maf housing
    arp head studs
    9:1 head spacer

    oil feed/return lines
    fmi
    4 bar fpr
    Last edited by kushdubber; 10-09-2011 at 10:09 PM. Reason: parts

  4. Member V-dubbulyuh's Avatar
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    09-28-2011 02:03 PM #4
    Quote Originally Posted by kushdubber View Post
    I have a parts list of what I think I will need to get around 300 hp.

    Please correct me if i am missing anything major.

    T04 turbo - ive seen setups using this, any suggestions would be great.
    atp manifold
    3" downpipe
    38mm tial wg
    oil feed/return lines

    c2 software (still unsure about this and what injectors to use)
    other little bits and pcs to hook everything up.
    1. Caution on using that, be sure you have a compatible turbine housing (as I did not see mention of using an SRI).

    2. Try to get your hands on a set of the older Bosch Bluetops (36). FYI there is another Bosch Bluetop that is not 36 lb so be careful there. I have not used them personally but I know people have had luck with the Lucas injectors also.

    Quote Originally Posted by kushdubber View Post
    And if i decide to use a ic, it will obviously need different software and injectors correct?
    I will get a bov if i go this route, any suggestions?

    Thanks
    The use of an IC will not alter your injector or software needs. You will be fine with the chip you selected above. As far as software options for OBD 1 you are basically limited to C2 and Standalone (I don't think United is supporting OBD1 Vr6 at the moment).
    "OP sounds like a MKIV guy"

  5. Member SVTDanny's Avatar
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    09-28-2011 02:10 PM #5
    Do yourself a favor and swap your motor to OBD2 before throwing a turbo kit on there. You will save yourself a ton of headaches down the road.

    C2 will take your money for the OBD1 software all day long, but you'll be lucky to get a response if you're having any problems (And you will have problems).

  6. Member kushdubber's Avatar
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    09-28-2011 04:43 PM #6
    sri meaning a short ram intake? or short runner? (short runner in the future)

    I have taken note of the bosch bluetops, will look into that.

    Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by djsheijkdfj View Post
    Do yourself a favor and swap your motor to OBD2 before throwing a turbo kit on there. You will save yourself a ton of headaches down the road.

    C2 will take your money for the OBD1 software all day long, but you'll be lucky to get a response if you're having any problems (And you will have problems).
    unfortunatly my motor was swapped this summer so i would rather not deal with that again. what types of problems compared to obd2? and why? if i have a shop for tuning, would they be able to fix those problems?

    Thanks
    Last edited by kushdubber; 09-28-2011 at 06:39 PM.

  7. Member SVTDanny's Avatar
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    09-28-2011 08:56 PM #7
    No. OBD1 is archaic and nobody wants to mess with it. From what I've seen, what seems to have happened is that Jeff wrote the OBD1 tunes when he was with C2, then he left, and doesn't mess with OBD1 anymore. C2 is stuck with the tunes, but nobody that knows how to do anything with them to further tweak them. Essentially, C2 is still selling a flawed product that they are either unable or unwilling to support.

    Jeff told me himself that he recommends 100% everyone swap to OBD2 before doing anything, because the OBD1 ECU is extremely limited and there will always be quirks in the tune.

    You don't have to swap the whole motor, just the engine bay harness, engine harness, MAF, O2 sensors, upper intake, throttle body, and ECU. Nothing that couldn't be accomplished in a Saturday afternoon.

    An option for OBD1 is to use the Ostrich emulator stuff to tune your own car, but unless you are well versed in dissecting maps within a BIN file and are able to figure out exactly what does what, you won't be getting anywhere. It's far easier/cheaper just to go to OBD2.

  8. Member V-dubbulyuh's Avatar
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    09-29-2011 07:06 AM #8
    Quote Originally Posted by djsheijkdfj View Post
    You don't have to swap the whole motor, just the engine bay harness, engine harness, MAF, O2 sensors, upper intake, throttle body, and ECU. Nothing that couldn't be accomplished in a Saturday afternoon.
    You should have provided links to the several swap/conversion threads or you can bet that this will as usual become yet another "How to: OBD1 to OBD2" with the typical single vs dual row, yada-yada BS thread.

    I'm too lazy right now to search and post them up... but as many times as that topic has been addressed it should not be hard to find.
    "OP sounds like a MKIV guy"

  9. Member kushdubber's Avatar
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    09-29-2011 10:35 AM #9
    Thanks guys!

    Ok so before I start this project I am going to do this conversion. I have been reading and it will be a lot easier to tune with the c2 software. Problems are the last thing I want.

    So, I am going to need the following (correct me if im wrong)
    obd2:
    ECU
    Intake mani
    harness (engine bay/engine)
    crank shaft sensor?????
    o2 sensors- how many?
    fpr?
    MAF - just a stock obd2?
    throttle body


    PLEASE let me know what im missing, and maybe what i dont need if I will be using C2 software.

    Anyone that reads this with some knowledge, your help is appreciated as i would like to get this rolling asap!!

  10. Member kushdubber's Avatar
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    09-29-2011 10:40 AM #10
    Quote Originally Posted by V-dubbulyuh View Post
    You should have provided links to the several swap/conversion threads or you can bet that this will as usual become yet another "How to: OBD1 to OBD2" with the typical single vs dual row, yada-yada BS thread.

    I'm too lazy right now to search and post them up... but as many times as that topic has been addressed it should not be hard to find.
    id rather this be a turbo build IF this thread continues. Once i have my parts list for the obd conversion I can figure that out on my own


  11. Member SVTDanny's Avatar
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    09-29-2011 11:00 AM #11
    Quote Originally Posted by kushdubber View Post

    obd2:
    ECU
    Intake mani - upper only
    harness (engine bay/engine)
    camshaft position sensor, I believe you only need this if you swap to a single chain though
    o2 sensors - front & rear, I believe the C2 tunes delete the rear one though, so just front
    fpr - 3 BAR
    MAF - just a stock obd2 - yes, if your OBD1 sensor is a 4 pin then you can use it
    throttle body

    Fixed/edited.

  12. Member kushdubber's Avatar
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    09-29-2011 11:37 AM #12
    Quote Originally Posted by djsheijkdfj View Post
    camshaft position sensor, I believe you only need this if you swap to a single chain though
    Do I need to swap to single chain or can I leave as is?

    Less work the better lol

  13. Member SVTDanny's Avatar
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    09-29-2011 12:22 PM #13
    You can leave it, although if you're doing the chains anyway, might as well just switch to the single upper.

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    09-29-2011 12:31 PM #14
    Quote Originally Posted by V-dubbulyuh View Post
    You should have provided links to the several swap/conversion threads or you can bet that this will as usual become yet another "How to: OBD1 to OBD2" with the typical single vs dual row, yada-yada BS thread.
    Quote Originally Posted by kushdubber View Post
    Do I need to swap to single chain or can I leave as is?

    Less work the better lol
    You can't say I didn't call it out.

    Leave it dual row, that is fine.
    "OP sounds like a MKIV guy"

  15. Member kushdubber's Avatar
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    09-29-2011 01:07 PM #15
    Quote Originally Posted by V-dubbulyuh View Post
    You can't say I didn't call it out.

    Leave it dual row, that is fine.
    hahahaha, awesome.

    I am going to leave it.

    Quote Originally Posted by djsheijkdfj View Post
    You can leave it, although if you're doing the chains anyway, might as well just switch to the single upper.
    Thanks dj for your help. I am going to start looking for these pcs asap

  16. Member kushdubber's Avatar
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    10-01-2011 10:42 AM #16
    im gonna plan on running a t04 60-1, what size hg spacer should i get?

    whats the difference between 8:5:1 and 9:1?

  17. Member kushdubber's Avatar
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    10-02-2011 11:25 AM #17
    Quote Originally Posted by kushdubber View Post
    im gonna plan on running a t04 60-1, what size hg spacer should i get?

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    10-02-2011 12:16 PM #18
    go with 9:1 spacer as its the best of both worlds...

    someone once said that run 8.5:1cr if you want to get the record of most hp out of 87 octane

    Ive run 25+psi (actually hitting my boost cut at 27psi a couple of times)on 9:1cr on 93oct with water/meth with my old setup using Precision's PT61 turbo with a stock vr with the 9:1 spacer...
    2010 MB GLK350 4matic
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  19. Member kushdubber's Avatar
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    10-02-2011 12:40 PM #19
    Quote Originally Posted by PjS860ct View Post
    go with 9:1 spacer as its the best of both worlds...

    someone once said that run 8.5:1cr if you want to get the record of most hp out of 87 octane

    Ive run 25+psi (actually hitting my boost cut at 27psi a couple of times)on 9:1cr on 93oct with water/meth with my old setup using Precision's PT61 turbo with a stock vr with the 9:1 spacer...
    lol

    thanks im gonna order one right now

  20. Member kushdubber's Avatar
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    10-08-2011 10:59 AM #20
    I am about to order my parts. But first can someone fill me in on the battle between bov's & dv's?

    I have decided to go with the dv.

    Thanks
    Last edited by kushdubber; 10-08-2011 at 12:08 PM. Reason: found my answer

  21. Member cant get a password's Avatar
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    10-08-2011 03:38 PM #21
    I went a differnt route I picked up a used megasquirt and harness for $250 on my local craigslist and took a bad obd1 ecu and took the connector off of the board and made my own plug and play harness.

    http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...r6-distributor

  22. Member kushdubber's Avatar
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    10-08-2011 05:37 PM #22
    Quote Originally Posted by cant get a password View Post
    I went a differnt route I picked up a used megasquirt and harness for $250 on my local craigslist and took a bad obd1 ecu and took the connector off of the board and made my own plug and play harness.

    http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...r6-distributor
    thats a nice project dude glad it worked out!! However id never be able to do that lol

  23. Member kushdubber's Avatar
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    10-08-2011 05:38 PM #23
    Ordered my parts from cts.

    I just want to say thanks to Clay, great guy!!

  24. Member kushdubber's Avatar
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    10-12-2011 06:31 AM #24
    I have 2 questions.

    Why does everyone run bovs? I have been told, and i have read, that a dv is much better for these set ups. Is it the software? If so, what other software do they run, aside from c2?

    Also, what is entailed in moving my battery to the trunk? Extended power/ground wires to a battery box in the back?

  25. Member SVTDanny's Avatar
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    10-12-2011 12:47 PM #25
    I run a BOV just because I didn't have time to mess with welding a recirc fitting onto the turbo inlet piping. You really should run a DV (Just like I need to) with a MAF based system like ours. When the BOV vents the air, the MAF has already counted that air, and so it just dumps fuel everytime you let off in boost. If you go to a different management and run speed density or some other option that isn't MAF based, you can vent to atmosphere all you want.

    Run a 0 gauge power cable to the back of the car. Ground the battery to the floor pan, and ground everything up front into the frame rail, or to another central ground.

  26. Member kushdubber's Avatar
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    10-12-2011 12:53 PM #26
    Awesome thanks

    Will the dv be moutned to my ic piping? and recirculated to the maf intake pipe? ( and mounted after maf sensor?)
    Last edited by kushdubber; 10-12-2011 at 01:04 PM.

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    10-15-2011 11:38 PM #27
    Don't mean to intrude on your thread but you seem to be getting some good responses from people who know what they are talking about.

    Question:

    what are the limitations for a stock 12v vr6 head, say running a 263 cam. i have a fully built short block on the way...

    I plan on running at least a gt30r

  28. Member kushdubber's Avatar
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    10-17-2011 09:36 AM #28
    Can someone please help me identify the two following parts? I have looked through my bentley, but I might be looking at something wrong.



    &



    Thanks!

  29. Member SVTDanny's Avatar
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    10-17-2011 10:12 AM #29
    1. Idle stabilizer valve

    2. Auxiliary water pump

  30. Member kushdubber's Avatar
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    10-17-2011 11:57 AM #30
    Do I have to route the isv tube to my intake that mounts to the turbo?
    Also, the pvc pipe that runs off the valve cover goes into my intake as well correct?

  31. Member SVTDanny's Avatar
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    10-17-2011 12:54 PM #31
    One side of the ISV goes to the intake, the other side goes into your charge piping. The ISV won't hold boost, so both sides need to be post-compressor.

    Yes , PCV goes to the intake pre-compressor.

  32. Member kushdubber's Avatar
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    10-17-2011 01:20 PM #32
    Quote Originally Posted by djsheijkdfj View Post
    One side of the ISV goes to the intake, the other side goes into your charge piping. The ISV won't hold boost, so both sides need to be post-compressor.

    Yes , PCV goes to the intake pre-compressor.
    Thanks

  33. Member kushdubber's Avatar
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    10-22-2011 09:59 AM #33
    Can I delete the isv? Its looking like the obd2 harness does not have a plug for it and I dont know how I would add one in there. I have seen people delete this part.


    Thanks for any help
    Last edited by kushdubber; 10-22-2011 at 10:32 AM.

  34. Member kushdubber's Avatar
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    10-23-2011 07:33 PM #34
    did that ^^


    Another q, is there a specific way to remove the clips into the fuse box?????

  35. Member SVTDanny's Avatar
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    10-23-2011 07:37 PM #35
    If you're going to OBD2, then no, there's no ISV - its function is replaced by the stepper motor in the throttle body.

    Are you talk about the plugs into the back of the fuse block? Just hold down the tabs and wiggle, they can be pretty stuck in there. You can use a small flathead to pry them out.

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