I tried posting a pic of my parts but it didnt work, ill post it soon...
On another note, i need some tips for fueling. I have a custom sri and it came with a fuel rail. I will need bigger fuel lines (assuming the size of feed and return) and a way to hook up an fpr, I heard it was a bitch..
Can someone please show me some pics or just give me some general info about how i can set all this **** up? I also would like to install a fuel pump, so any directions on the install for that would be GREAT!
I am getting really close to start this build and would like to cover everything before I get stuck.
Another fueling question. I am looking at this fpr adapter..
It looks like the fpr would mount on the oposite side of stock. If this is the case, would i plug the far side of my fuel rail(driver side)? feed like goes in the top, return is in the bottom correct me if im wrong
Would I be good running stock fuel lines to this adapter? I am running #42 injectors
Last edited by kushdubber; 11-27-2011 at 04:17 PM.
After doing some more reading, i can ditch the whole fpr adapter idea and use an ajustable one. I am thinking it will be better for the long run and tuning?
This way I can hood up the feed and return fuel lines to each end of my rail and hook those up to my adj fpr.
still my question is, should I upgrade all my lines to braided ones? I plan on installing an inline fuel pump as well.. so whatever help on that would be great.
Correct me if any of that is wrong
Just a helpful hint (before breaking the locating tabls off of your engine harness copnnectors) - there is a plastic "locking bar" that slides over about 1/2", this must be moved before attempting to remove the connectors from your CE2 panel.
If you don't want to remove your OBD1 harness, you do have other engine management options.
Eurodyne Maestro Tuning, Stand-Alone ECU Install/Tuning/Wiring Harnesses
hi guys, i have a question on fueling and setup with an adjustable fpr
I have all my lines and fittings as well as an aeromotive fpr.. there are 3 in/out ports on my fpr and I have read through the setup manual which is telling me 2 ways to hook this up.
#1 Block of the far end of my fuel rail. Run the feed line from the fuel pump into the fpr, and the other side (feed) into my rail. then i would run my return line from the bottom port on the fpr to my return line to tank
#2 on the digram is running feed from my fuel pump to the far end (driver side) of my rail, then connecting the other side (passenger) of the rail to the port on the fpr. and then connecting my return from the bottom of the fpr to my return line to tank
sry if it sounds confusing. hope someone can shed some light from a past experience.
Fuel feed line from the pump goes directly to the fuel rail inlet closes to pass. Side fender...
Outlet is the far side n that goes to the side of the adj fpr...
The bottom of the fpr is for the return and that goes to the tank...
Post pics when ut done
Another question I have been thinking about. I am wondering how to mount the dv.. i know it goes on the charge piping but I have seen it installed 2 different ways. 1) the bottom port is attached to the charge pipe and the side connects to the intake to recirculate. 2) or the opposite. side attached to charge pipe and bottom to intake.
the second option imo would look a lot cleaner, i can install it upright.
whats the difference and why are people running two different ways? can this be changed by switching the vac line to a boost line to reverse when the valve opens and closes? or vice verca...
a good picture for a reference to option 2 would be Dm Motorsports Red Rocket with x2 dv's
finaly i got all the nuts tight on the exhaust mani, that was a bitch.
i went to bolt up the turbo and realized that one of the nuts is too big to turn onto the threads. does anyone use a smaller nut? see below pic for reference..
also, i clocked the compressor side of the turbo, pretty easy. but looking at the picture, it seems i am going to have to clock the exhaust side now too? the oil drain should be at the bottom, am i able to rotate the hot side? if so, is it the same deal as the cool side?
put that nut on first... dont put the turbo all the way down the stud when you put the nut on...
also loosen both the compressor bolts and the turbine bolts to clock the center housing... you can do this while the turbo is on the manifold or take the turbo off and clock it which is easier as you have more room to get access to the bolts...
also install the return flange and return line on before you put the turbo back on the manifold...
GAP vs OEM nuts - This is why I had such a problem with mine.
I bent up my studs a but my mani didn't leak, got lucky. I still ordered replacement studs which ill be installing sooner than expected
both sides will turn, just loosen up those bolts. and for your DV - if your not running a boost controller leave the top port OPEN and nipple off turbo to the sideport. If your turbo doesnt have a vac port then mani + DV + EVAP (with check valve) if no check valve I left the evap open and alone, didn't seem to hurt anything.
Last edited by CorradoFuhrer; 12-25-2011 at 01:06 AM.
and for your DV - if your not running a boost controller leave the top port OPEN and nipple off turbo to the sideport. If your turbo doesnt have a vac port then mani + DV + EVAP (with check valve) if no check valve I left the evap open and alone, didn't seem to hurt anything.[/QUOTE]
you mean wastegate? and not DV= diverter valve...