Steve let me know how the paint work goes. My 5KTQ is in need of some paint.
I have crested a 1000 miles since the restore and I changed the oil for Genevieve's winter storage.
The paint project has stalled. I have been swamped at work and my motivation is down a little. I think I have shifted my thought process a little. Instead of painting the valence, I think I am going to clean and touch it up with some rust inhibitor. I think I have decided I would like to find a small bumper Pre-85 Coupe GT or 4000 sedan front spoiler. I can get it painted with no dis-assembly to the car, it will cover the blemish as well as I think it would finish the nose of the car off better.
If you know of a 4000 front spoiler available, drop me a line.
I also have update on a problem and fix. I was having some harder starting when the car was cold. I thought through my memory bank on how the CIS worked and remembered the cold start valve (called the fifth injector on 4cylinder cars and the sixth injector on 5cylinders) along with the thermo time switch. This all came to me as I was cranking and after 5 seconds of starter crank I could hear a relay start pulsing and the car would start. This took me back to my 77 Scirocco and the hot start problems I fought there. Back then there was a circuit you could add that was a relay that would pulse the fifth injector if the starter cranked more than 5 seconds. On later cars, this circuit came standard. It is taking me longer to type it out than the thought process did but I figured out the sixth injector wasn't firing when cold and that I must have a thermo time switch problem. I went to the engine bay, found the thermo time switch and there it was, big as day, not even plugged in. I found the plug hanging next to it and I figure it hasn't been plugged in for a very long time, possibly since the car was new. I cleaned the contacts up a little, put some dielectric grease on them and plugged it in. Voila! Starts on a dime when cold!
I have a couple of little things left to chase and I am ordering parts. Those include a front seat guide clip because the driver's seat rocks a little, an O-ring for the idle screw because it is dry rotted and affecting idle slightly and lastly a new oil cap. When I did an engine bay cleaning for the first time, I found that gunk engine cleaner dissolved the silver engine paint on the oil cap but luckily did not affect the black engine paint on the valve cover or brake booster. Not sure what happened since they were both the same brand and type of high temp ceramic engine paint, go figure... I also have some seepage back at the gasket for the water inlet into the head from the top radiator hose. I used a new paper gasket with Permatex and tightened to the torque specs in the Bentley Manual but no joy. I was careful to clean and prep the mating surfaces too. I think I will either retry with a new gasket and a skim of RTV for seek making a custom gasket out of rubber. I will likely chase that seepage when I do the water pump and timing belt. All in all it gives me a couple of small things to do over the winter.
That is all I have for an update currently. Likely won't have more until spring.
Thanks to all for the words of encouragement, the help and tech tips and for following my progress.
Last edited by sgjii; 11-16-2011 at 09:20 AM.
I was working on car projects this weekend and had a couple of little parts for the Audi.
I had trouble with the passenger door shutting properly and found that the door pin was missing its plastic collar. I found an inexpensive set on eBay from MK1 Originals. They didn't list a fitment for the 4000 but I took a leap of faith based on time period and photos. They fit and function great.
I also had a cracked trunk lock seal. It had dried out, cracked and shrunk. Again I could not find official fitment but it is the same style lock as the MKII Scirocco. I again ordered on faith, this time from MK1 Autohaus and Eureka, it fit perfect!
I also spoke with my body shop contact and I think I am going to add a Coupe GT front spoiler and a 4000Q trunk spoiler. I also want to address the surface rust around the rust proofing plugs in the door sills.
I still need to address the timing belt and water pump, just based on age. If anybody has and is willing to loan me the crank pulley holding tool it would be much appreciated.
Of course, some new photos
Last edited by sgjii; 10-27-2014 at 10:57 AM. Reason: URL update
I appreciate the input.
I have the rear spoiler and was going to mock it up prior to final decision. I was debating if the 4dr Quattro spoiler would look right or too gaudy. My biggest love for the spoiler was that it was OEM.
I have also considered a very small lip edge spoiler. It would be aftermarket but I would have it painted to match. I installed one on my Mercedes SLK and really liked how it set off the tail end.
Overall, I think the blank trunk looks wrong or unfinished. No matter what I do it will be 3M tape and no drilling.
I wholeheartedly agree on not doing the trunklid spoiler. The car is what it is, and it looks great!
On the other hand, if you REALLY want to do the trunklid spoiler, find a good trunklid from a 1984 4000S Quattro which would be the only year of the old style decklid with the spoiler. Have the donor painted (inside and out) to match your car. A GOOD shop can get an exact match.
That way you still have the original to go back to if you or whoever owns the car in the future desires.
Those spoilers do inevitably get cracks in the paint. You can use a flex agent when it is painted, but it seems to be just a matter of time.
I "did up" a 1982 4000S years ago with the trunklid spoiler, chin spoiler, and the under-bumper rear valance from a 1984 4000S Quattro (only year for that piece, too). It looked good, but it was not nearly as clean or original as your car (I'll insert a pic, although the under-bumper valance was not installed yet, I guess).
Like previous posters have said, it's your car, but it is so clean and original that it seems to deserve to stay that way.
What started me down the spoiler road in the first place was the front. The metal valence below the bumper has damaged from being run up and into a concrete parking lot stop. The cracked and damaged paint rusted and flaked significantly with setting all those years. My thought was to clean the rust, seal the damage to prevent further decay and cover it with a factory front spoiler painted to match.
I do not have a ton of money invested in the OEM front and rear spoilers and could likely resell them and be whole. The only mods to the car thus far are the Nardi steering wheel, 15in BBS wheels and the upgrade to vented front rotors instead of solids. None of these upgrades are such that they can't be undone and I saved all the original parts.
My plans include the addition of Bosch fog lights and a factory Fog Switch, the front spoiler, possibly the rear spoiler and a decent sounding stereo head unit with factory speaker locations. I will likely have to replace the speakers because of rotten paper speaker cones. The headunit is already picked and is a Kenwood with CD, Bluetooth, iPod interface and XM Radio. Again I will save the factory piece and NOT cut the wire harness. I don't own "garage queens" and I like to drive them so some creature comforts are a must.
Just wandered into the Audi area and read your whole thread and looked at the pics. Love it! What is the name of the color? Is it metallic? Good find, hope you enjoy many more miles.
My Original 1977 Scirocco is for sale: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...n-Baltimore-MD
The color is Indiana Red and yes it is Metallic.
Just a few minor tweaks like the new water pump & belts, fuel accumulator and she will be ready for the summer. I am looking forward to a fun summer and a few thousand more miles.
Now I am the proud owner of a 1980 Audi 4000 2Door Sedan. (PICTURES at www.sbfiles.com/audi4000)
I was in the Army in 1980 on orders for Germany. I had just bought a 1980 Honda Wagon because I was going to Germany soon and I thought the car would be good for Europe. It was not. Honda was about the only car company that made engines that worked well with unleaded gas and could not be brought to Germany and burn regular gas, they would burn up. The dealer also sold new Audi's! I looked over the inventory and bought a cream/yellowish Audi 4000 S/5 Cly. When I got to Germany I made friends with a German family. Reinhold worked for VW making the Audi. He took my car to the factory with him and three weeks later I got it back. It had been Germanized! I could cruise at 170 MPH all day on the Autobahn. I loved that car. After three years we went back to Ft. Sill Oklahoma. Driving home one day I stopped in at the local dairy queen just down the street from the house. Somewhere just north of us it was one of those famous Oklahoma downpours and the drainage ditch next to the dairy queen filled and overflowed its banks in a matter on seconds. I had left the car running, windows open, and the water just picked it up and down stream it went. The car was recovered and the insurance payed to replace the engine and transmission that had been destroyed. The car just never ran right, at least for me after that. I sold the car and bought a 1980 Fleetwood Cadillac. The wife was in Real Estate and that was the perfect car for her. I often wonder if that car is still in Lawton Oklahoma somewhere. I do not have pictures, divorce destroyed them. I cannot find any paperwork with numbers on them. The dealership is long gone too. I miss that car. Yours is beautiful.
Sorry to hear about the flood taking your Audi.
Your post must have pushed this back to the top as I got a Statcounter report with an unusually high page count, which made me take notice and come check the thread.
Although I made it to Carlisle, PA for the 2012 Import and Kit show this summer, my summer has been swamped with work and business travel. My car projects and especially Vortex postings have fallen way behind.
I have some new photos and updates I need to post to all three of my vehicle threads, I have been off the grid for too long.
Thanks for bringing my attention back
On a side note, there is a cream 4000 2 door that looks to be in great shape on eBay currently. If I remember it is a 4 cylinder though...
I am Nauman ,I live in Treasure island I do LED automotive Lighting business in west USA ,And most of my client use them for 2010 & UP Chevy camaro with only the “LS/LT” Standard halogen headlights .
In the beginning ,we find a 7.5W with projector lens from china market with a similar base P13W .When I install them and appear three problems : The socket are not so deep ,Also the O-Ring Groove is too close to the flange .The color is just right to what we need .
For better solve this Problem ,We contact with an another company called Shenzhen Moya Led lighting co.,ltd and send one of my Philips halogen 55W headlight for their study and after wait 2 weeks ,They send me a same sample and it is just what I real need .I am so happy about that .Now I ordered 200 pairs each month ,And also with beautiful packing for my clients .And the price is very good even compare with E-Bay .
Any guy who also use these lamps ,I like to share the experience .Thank you !
Nauman 10-12-2012. attached comparision of the halogen picture & LED .
It has been too long, but in the words of Randy Quaid's character in Independence Day, "I'M BAAAACK!"
Well, I have been working way too much and doing way too little with my project cars for the last year. I have registered for Carlisle 2013, just finished a major work project and once again have the time and motivation to work on the Audi.
I pulled the cover off, connected the battery and she fired right up! Time to start working on tweaks and upgrades before Carlisle. Genevieve just crested 15K miles with the two commutes to work since waking her from her winter slumber.
Last fall the car developed a fuel leak and I had to drive the Mercedes to the Columbus Audi GTG Spook Run. First thing to address this year was the fuel leak. The line between the high pressure pump outlet and the fuel accumulator was cracked and spraying Upon further inspection the culprit became obvious. Aside from the age of the line, the fuel accumulator mounts seperated and had let go, this allowed the accumulator to bounce around and stress the brittle plastic and it started leaking right at the connection to the pump. I had a new/upgraded fuel line kit from MK1 Autohaus for my Scirocco and all of the fittings were correct. The line length was a bit of an issue but I got creative with routing the lines and moving the pump back a couple of inches in the bracket. What a pain, the leaking fuel had softened the undercoating and everything I touched was a black tar goop mess! I went through half a box of Nitrile Gloves and a Saturday.
Upgrades for this year will include mechanical and cosmetics.
I found a New In Box, New Old Stock Kamei front spoiler for the car. It has a hand signed and dated inspection sticker from 1983. It will nicely finish off the front valence and hide some of the sins of parking lot curb stop damage from the original owner.
For the rear is a trunk lip spoiler. I was going to do an OEM 4KQ trunk spoiler but hated the idea of drilling the trunk deck. I ordered the small lip style by length and it attaches with gold ole' 3M tape. Since the Kamei is unpainted and black, I left the lip spoiler "natural" as well.
The exhaust has been an "eye sore" for me and I have been debating a remedy ever since I got her running. Not the highest tech solution but I painted the rear muffler Hi-Temp flat black to help it hide/blend and I added a mass auto parts store chrome exhaust tip (yeah, I know... china special). Might not be Borla or Ansa but better than before and inexpensive.
I am exploring some wheel center cap ideas to fit the Mesh X wheels and dress them up a little beyond the bland cap they have now. We will have to see if the new caps will fit reasonably...
Lastly I plan to have the windows tinted. A nice 35% smoke window tint (shhh don't tell the Ohio Highway Patrol, they think 50% is the limit). I like the way it looks, it keeps things cooler and it will protect the fragile, aged interior from UV damage.
Good news for this summer's heat is that at the end of last year, I had the AC serviced and it now blows snow from the vents, well not literally but the air is nicely chilled.
It took 6 months to get them and they have been setting in the corner of my living room for another 6 months but it is time for a set of springs. I started by looking for H&R then Vogtland and then Nuespeed and Eibach, No Joy, All discontinued. I had not heard of or used B&G Springs before but they were the only player left in the market and they received the thumbs up from a local Audi enthusiast. They are not a stocking item and were a production order item from overseas. I ordered, they were put on the schedule to be made and then came on the slow boat across the ocean. Since I like the 4000 chassis and I have also acquired a Coupe GT, I was afraid I would never have another opportunity for springs once these were discontinued and it looked like that was a real possibility... I ordered two more sets! I ordered nearly six months ago and they showed up last week. I plan to mate them up with some Saches/BOGE shocks and that should cure the mushy ride. The shocks are rotten from age and the springs have NO performance character to them at all. I affectionately call the current suspension setup the "Mashed Potato One" suspension package LOL.
The suspension upgrade is under way and the entire front is down. The ball joints and tie rod ends are tight, as they should be for so few miles. The control arm bushings are a little questionable and since they have always been a weak link I have 4 new ones. I dropped the entire front suspension, cradle and all. Everything will get wire brushed, cleaned up and given a fresh coat of chassis black paint before re-assembly (thanks Eastwood). I also have new strut mounts since the original ones were soo crusty.
A question I would pose to my fellow Audi folks, since I am not changing the tie rod ends or ball joints nor disturbing their alignment, should I have the car re-aligned from a spring change? I am guessing the alignment will likely change with the lower stance of the new springs.
Check out last nights photos: www.jenkinsboys.com/audi4000
Last edited by sgjii; 10-27-2014 at 11:01 AM. Reason: URL update
Made more progress last night. More pics at www.jenkinsboys.com/audi4000
Rear suspension is buttoned up. Front parts are cleaned, painted and ready for re-assembly.
I did run into a problem, well two actually. First problem was minor and just a pain in the ass to fix. When I was taking the rear shock mounts loose, I dropped the top nut and washer and lost it behind the gas tank. It went right between the tank and back seat mounting panel. I fished around with a telescoping magnet and got it caught on something and it broke off... Now I had missing pieces and a potential rattler lost in the abyss. I bit the bullet and emptied the trunk. I took the spare tire out, trunk fascia out and then loosened the gas tank. I was able to retrieve all pieces but it was a serious time suck on what should have been such a simple rear shock change.
The next problem was much bigger and start Wednesday evening. I have done control arm bushings on later 4000/B2 chassis cars and they can be stuck and challenging but doable. This car has the early control arm and bushing style. Getting them out was rough but now the little bastards won't go back in. I greased, I sprayed with silicone, I talked sweet to them, I swore at them, I tried gentle persuasion and ultimately brute force... No Joy. What to do? When all else fails, read the directions!
I broke out the Bentley Manual and found reference to specialty tool number 3039. It appears to be a funnel like sleeve that the bushing presses into which compresses the lip to allow it to pass into the control arm, of course I don't own specialty tool number 3039. I (wrongly) thought that by sleeping on it, I may have some great epiphany about getting them pressed in -or- some help from a friend -or- just another fresh try that was not at 11PM might make the magic happen... yeah right.
Google and forum searches lead me to Zelenda to find the tool is $95 plus shipping and God only knows if it is in stock and how long to get it. No control arms are a show stopper. This is definitely looking to affect my plan of going to the Columbus Audi GTG Saturday and starting to jeopardize the trip to Carlise, all over some $3 bushings.
I then started looking for complete control arms and found some on eBay but in California. About $70/ea makes it start looking like new arms with new bushings and fresh paint was likely how I should have approached it in the first place and not much more money than the tool. Now I am back to long distance and shipping time.
Thursday/Yesterday morning I resigned myself to the fact that I need to order either control arms or the tool and worse yet, suck up the overnight shipping to keep things on schedule. Instead of using my phone for internet research, in the dark, from the tailgate of the pickup, I sat down at my office computer and started looking around, then I found it! Hans Auto Parts www.hansautoparts.com was east coast in NC, had the arms in stock and holy smokes they were only $15/ea. I still sucked it up on $120 overnight shipping but hey the arms were so cheap it was still a deal. I looked around their website and they have some pretty cool VW/Audi parts for super prices. It is worth a visit.
I hate to utter the words (or type them), China has become less and less of a "bad word" and source of poor quality. Heck, most of what we can find in car parts across multiple makers/brands are from China as aftermarket and damn if they aren't OE parts in a lot of cases now. I think the control arms are Grazzmetal brand, and the only choice in the market if you can't find New Old Stock genuine VW/Audi. They also had ball joints and tie rod ends for great prices and I decided to just go for those as well. All told, I bought two control arms w/bushings, two ball joints, two tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, strut top nuts & overnight shipping for $179.68 My only disappointment would be no bolts/hardware with the ball joints but for $4/ea how can I complain too loudly?
I just can't shut up about my amazement at $15.00 control arms, $4.00 Ball joints & $5.00 tie rod ends!!!
Hopefully tonight, I get her back on the ground and rolling on the new suspension parts. I will update again soon.
Last edited by sgjii; 10-27-2014 at 11:01 AM. Reason: URL update
A very productive weekend.
Finished up the suspension late Friday, early Saturday morning. Had the car aligned and then met the Columbus Audi GTG folks at City Barbecue in Gahanna.
The suspension came together great. I have to admit that I was a little worried when I compared the new B&G front spring to the stock one, uncompressed there was almost a six inch difference.
I think I now know why B&G didn't list this car in the application guide. I was reading in the Bentley Manual that there were two different style springs, one that was the same diameter coils top to bottom and one where the last coil on each end was tighter/smaller diameter. Fortunately I had the later style so my spring seats and perches were correct for the B&Gs, lucky me!
Everything is scraped, painted, fresh, tidy and back together. The sway bar was challenging to remount though. I figured out that the suspension had to be compressed with the weight of the car to re-install the bar. I placed jack stands under the ball joints and let the lift down, thank you Sir Isaac Newton.
I also did a little "hidden" body work on the front valence where the previous owner had hit a curb stop. Those Harbor Freight body hammers really do work! I was quite proud of my metal smoothing skills and took some photos of the primer but was so excited to install the spoiler that I forgot to take painted photos. Probably all for the better since the paint mix was significantly off in color. Instead of "Indiana Red" I think the boys at Sherwin Williams mixed "Dry Bloody Scab" for the color... The couple of touched up sots on the door look better than nothing but I am definitely disappointed in the very dark color differential. It is un-catalyzed single stage enamel so I figure it will simply polish of with some compound when I try again for a better color match of touch up paint. The front valence on the other hand is hidden behind the spoiler and the work was more for anti-rust than cosmetics.
The car has COMPLETELY different road manners. It now feels like a sports car rather than a mush wagon, Sunday geriatric driver. When accelerating, the nose no longer rises so high that small aircraft warnings are issued, the car stays nice and level. Taking the freeway ramp at 50+MPH is no longer a suicide mission. Aside from the lack of control that the Automatic offers versus a 5spd, it drives out quite respectably. She will hold her own even better in this fall's October Spook Run.
I also like that the car just looks better with the lower stance. The NOS Kamei spoiler has been a major improvement as well, the nose finally looks "finished" rather than like something is missing.
On my way to the Audi GTG, the $10 exhaust tip silently disappeared on I270. Apologies if it ended up in some poor sap's grill or windshield, damn Chinese junk. I took it as an omen that it was not meant to be so I just painted the rest of the exhaust tip matte black and moved on.
As for wheel center caps I mentioned previously, I had some really cool red/carbon fiber look BBS caps ordered but they will not fit the wheels on the car. Close but too loose, so no cosmetic change there.
After a great weekend and about 200 miles on the new suspension, I got up this morning and drove her to work, Just Because I Could! Well that and it was sooo fun to do so. Actually made me smile on this morning's commute rather than pre-occupying my mind with fantasies of employing the "Pit Maneuver" on the lousy drivers that surround me at 7AM.
I plan to get the windows tinted Wednesday with the best window tinter I have ever found, kudos to Mike Riley at Ziebart Reynoldsburg, OH. He tinted my 2013 Chevrolet Cruze and even though it is not a vintage Audi, VW or Porsche, I am just as picky and meticulous with it. He is conscientious, careful and downright a true craftsman. There is a lot of crappy window tint out there and any schmuck can call himself a tinter (hell I have even tinted a couple of cars myself) but Mike is the master!
Next, I re-install the back seat, wash & detail and she is ready for Carlisle!
This coming Mother's Day weekend, I plan to do the wash & detail followed by a photo shoot at my parent's farm. They have a beautiful lake and covered bridge in the backyard for a nice back drop.
Car looks great! Cant wait to see it at carlisle this year again.. I had the 84 4ksq with bbs rm's last year.. This year Ill be rolling in a 82 4k diesel..
Funny thing is last year I also got a brand new in box kamei front spoiler!! With all documents and stickers
I wasnt sure about mounting it to the diesel but maybe I will just to steal your thunder
Have any pics of how you mounted it?
As for mounting, I did not photo the holes I drilled. I drilled 6 holes as it did not mate to any existing holes in the apron. I used a 9/32 bit and nylon plugs/nuts that I found in the Oreilly Auto Parts fastener section. They were kind of like license plate fasteners but were packs of an assortment from Dorman (click here). It took two packs to get 6 plugs that fit round holes the same size as most were meant for square holes. I looked through my tool box and couldn't find any square drill bits...
Mike did the window tint last night. Sublime!
I love the look of the tint, the attention to detail that was employed and the UV protection it will provide for the interior.
Check out the photos:
Last edited by sgjii; 10-27-2014 at 11:02 AM. Reason: URL update