Do you have a thread on yours?
How does the redirecting work? is it cable operated, vacuum operated? ect?
Some progress on the front suspension, though I continue to have a stubborn brake drag on the passenger front which I haven't eliminated yet. Not sure what it could be at this point, unless my new caliper is improperly rebuilt (which is possible, I had to re do the external piston boot because of how poorly done it was, maybe the square cut gasket is twisted or something)
New shocks in the replace the originals- heres a few pics of the replacement cartridge vs the original setup.
cartridge installed in the original shock tube-
During reassembly, I sanded down, then rubbercoated everything. Couple thick coats of nice rubber will keep the corrosion levels down, paint was flaking off this entire unit-
Here is the passenger side after full re-installation, since I was taking everything apart, I figured what the hell, so for both sides, new strut bearings, shocks, rotors, pads, semi loaded calipers, rubber brake lines, and a new axle boot on this side-
I learned how to properly, or easily reinstall that strut nut up top. Its WAY easier if you hand thread it as much as you can loose up in the air, then connect everything and put the tire back on, then load the strut by putting it partially back on the ground, THEN tighten that nut. Easy as pie and almost impossible to cross thread that way.
Car is ALMOST ready to drive, but that damn brake drag is killing me, have to figure out what the problem is, maybe it goes back to the master?
I don't think its the new caliper, it was pretty hard to draw fluid down the brake line, could be a blockage further up in the system somewhere
last weekend I found a suitable body for my 85 Jetta drivetrain to move into, and while I was there, I scored a nice looking set of rims from the guy. They came with 1.5 inch spacers, and he said stuck out way to far on a MK2. I figured they might work on the wider quantum-
Here are some pics-
They actually almost seem to fit without spacers, so I will try them again. I think they don't look just right, I need them further in, and with a larger tires, but I love the 5 spokes. They are pretty corroded, so first need to be refinished, and no center caps either.
And dont be amazed anymore...there will be no major mechanical malfuntion, and it will start everytime
Oddly enough, I had very similar front bumper damage, my passenger caliper did drag sometimes (worked itself out after lubing the piston a bit and driving it plenty), gonna need a bit of suspension resto soon too, expect im going a much lower route
Would love to see what you have done, and definitely how it turns out lowered.
Follow up on the brake issue-
Pretty convinced its related to the master cylinder.
Took the passenger caliper apart, reassembled, it appears to be working properly, removed the line from the master and checked for blockages or pinches in the line between the caliper and master, no problems there.
new master came in the mail, need to bleed it and install
Bah, I guess i will toss a thread up... for now this is it stock hieght, and then with a 2" drop... going to have to do some welding fabrication on a new set of coilovers to get them to work on this car and to get as low as I want to go... Mind you this thing started out looking exactly like your Q... color and all
Before drop and tint:
Quality tint job 5%, 18%, 35% and a 2" drop:
Let me know how it acts after the new master... Mine still drags eeeeeevery once in a while but lets go with a good hard pump on the pedal
Last edited by TheWolfsburg; 12-08-2011 at 09:19 PM.
looks pretty good lowered! First pic looks almost like a synchro, not the 2wd version. The tires on mine were much bigger, so I didn't have that lifted look.
how is the ride lowered? Did you just cut a coil or two out of the spring? or use a different spring?
I also put a pair of new tires on the front to resolve a slight vibration from the original pair, which had some uneven wear.
2nd improvement is I also ordered some new hatch struts that came with the master, I think thats been one of the greatest improvements so far.
Heres a pic of how I bled the master, I had a couple of those premade brake lines kicking around that fit, so I cut them in half, fully installed the master, and routed them back into the reservoir. Worked pretty well, I thought less messy than a standard bench bleed. Took about 150 pumps of the brake pedal to bleed it.
haha, this is an ideal chore for a helper. In this circumstance I told my friend to just start pumping the brake pedal, then went across the street and ordered us a pizza.
Ive decided that this car is too high. This is the last thing you would ever hear from a guy like me, who loves high ground clearance, but the tires I have on this car are oversize, and I think it looks goofy. Ill take a pic, might have to do with the bent up front bumper and lack of rear bumper, looks like a boat.
Last edited by tinworm; 12-12-2011 at 07:55 AM.
timing is a belt drive, right up front and easy to work on... even has a little peeking hole to light the timing belt when setting it, just drop the front bumper and good to go.
And Im glad to hear the too high comment... I was hoping to inspire a little low around here
(and I think somebody asked, but I used bolt on spring clamps to compress three coils on each spring... no cutting... drives like a ferrari)
what exactly do these clamps look like???
or something a bit simpler?
except I used my spring compressor to compress everything, and then I fit three coils in there instead of the two... and no worries about the safe thing... if they evergave way, all they would do is expand in place... effective raising the car. Being wrapped around the strut, they aint going anywhere. And you can change the height to your taste, all revesable too, as opposed to cutting springs.