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    Thread: g60 and Corrado FAQ post collection

    1. 10-14-2002 09:53 AM #1
      Hello all-

      I've started a collection of posts relating to subjects we commonly see in here and the Corrado forum. Rather than re-post it all in here, I've put the links the FAQ in the Corrado forum. The FAQ is located here: The Corrado FAQ.

      Feel free to suggest new topics for the FAQ, or add your own. It's just starting out, so there aren't that many subjects up yet. I think this will help us go a long way towards avoiding repetition of common questions. So, if you're a newbie or have a question you might think is pretty common, please look through the FAQ list first before posting here.

      Thanks everyone,

      -Nate

      (edited to reflect new location of FAQ)


      [Modified by SaabFan, 4:36 PM 11-5-2002]


    2. 10-14-2002 11:00 AM #2
      Thanks Nate. What do we owe you for it?
      -Greg

    3. Member R3's Avatar
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      10-14-2002 11:44 AM #3
      thank god!

    4. Member fastg60's Avatar
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      10-14-2002 12:12 PM #4
      whooohooo, no more BOV question posts and what boost do you get with this pulley threads........yippee

      sticky's are cool


    5. 10-14-2002 01:10 PM #5
      quote:
      Thanks Nate. What do we owe you for it?

      $1,256!

      Just kidding, nothing is owed, this is the stuff us moderators are here for.

      But if anyone wants to buy me a the next time you see me at Waterfest or something, I'd be glad to accept.

      -Nate


    6. 10-15-2002 07:25 AM #6
      Why not add your writeups to a collection of already existing 180 corrado-specific techtips/faq's found on the corrado club site?

      http://www.corrado-club.com/faq/techtips.cfm

      The direct link to submit new FAQ's is:

      http://www.corrado-club.com/faq/entryform_faq.cfm

      Just make sure to see if something does not already exist before you submit....

      ANdy


    7. 10-15-2002 11:58 AM #7
      I thought about making use of the Corrado Club FAQ instead of creating one on here, but I decided not to. I began writing up a handful of topics for either submission to Corrado Club or inclusion in an FAQ here or somewhere else, but I scrapped that idea in favor of the "search and post results" format I started to use in the FAQ in the Corrado forum.

      First off, I wanted something that was dynamic and local to Vortex - for ease of use and ease of creation. With an FAQ here, I/we/anyone can post in it, suggest topics they'd like added, etc. The Corrado Club FAQ is an excellent source of info, but it feels "distant" from Vortex.

      "Ease of use" might not seem like a valid reason to have an FAQ here instead of pointing people to the Corrado Club FAQ. But, when new users here ask a basic question and then say "I already read the Corrado Club FAQ" - when, in fact, there are a handful of good writeups on their subject in the Corrado Club FAQ, then having an FAQ here does seem a bit "easier," since they'll instantly see it the first time they come in here, and it'll be easy for us to point them to it.

      Plus, the way I'm doing it makes it simple to add a ton of info with very little effort - I or someone else can come up with a topic idea, and I/they spend 5 minutes searching and then posts a list of the results, rather than having to write up a topic from scratch.

      Plus, IMHO, linking to a bunch of threads is a much more informative FAQ structure than having individual people write about individual topics. Take an example - what to look for when buying a Corrado. I or someone else could write a paragraph or two (for Corrado-Club), or someone could post (in here) a list of two dozen threads on that topic. IMHO, the second is the more informative method - instead of one person's opinion, you get 20 people's opinions.

      The Corrado Club site is an awesome source of info, and I point people there *all* the time. But still, we have newbies here say things like "help wme with XXX common problem, I already searched and I already checked the Corrado Club FAQ." Telling them to search harder or read the Corrado Club FAQ again doesn't usually help much, so I figured I'd do the searching for them ahead of time and post the results here.

      -Nate


      [Modified by SaabFan, 12:02 PM 10-15-2002]


    8. Member fastg60's Avatar
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      10-21-2002 10:45 AM #8
      here, since nobody else is doin it yet.....this will help with most all your g60 FAQ's: http://sam.bytebandits.com/radotutorial

      thanks goes out to sam aka mrkrad, one of our resident g60 tuning guru's.


    9. 10-25-2002 04:31 PM #9
      Thanks for posting that link to Sam's photo-walkthrough. I've been looking for it for a bit, but with the search down now, I hadn't found it. . .

      -Nate

      Anyone else have a contribution?


    10. 10-27-2002 06:15 PM #10
      Nate, I'm just glad you put this in the G60 forum- hadn't seen the Corrado FAQ in a long time- I gave up on the Corrado forum about 2 months ago- same stupid stuff day after day. Long live the G60 forum!- where MOST of the topics and posts seem to be intelligent.

    11. 10-28-2002 03:59 PM #11
      Just a quick FYI, the Corrado FAQ is undergoing some re-structuring.

      -Nate


    12. 11-05-2002 04:33 PM #12
      I've added a couple new topics. Newcomers to the g60 forum will want to check out the Overview of g60 modifications topic.

      -Nate


    13. Member CorradoCody's Avatar
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      12-01-2002 01:36 AM #13
      How about some Lysholm ones? People often ask about it in the G60 forum and Corrado forums. Or did I miss something?

      CC


    14. 12-05-2002 08:00 AM #14
      quote:
      How about some Lysholm ones?

      That is a good idea. The FAQ hasn't gotten in to any alternative configurations yet except for turbos and 16v stuff. I'll add that next time I work on it.

      -Nate


    15. 12-05-2002 06:22 PM #15
      car will start and run for only a few seconds(like 10) every time I start it, then it stalls out. When i go to restart car it turns over and runs fine. This happens evertime i start the car. "????" I was thinking it may be running of 5th injecter and stalling cause of a dirty fuel distributer. But it seems weird that it happens every time, only on the 1st time, and always once. Has new plugs, wire. If you can diagnose , pleasee help. it is just rally annoying.. thanks, Keith

      smithclicks@aol.com


    16. Member REPOMAN's Avatar
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      08-02-2010 11:57 PM #16
      02A gearbox ratio list

      In code order:-

      Code|1st|2nd|3rd|4th|5th|Final
      AFE|3.778|2.105|1.345|0.971|0.795|3.684
      AGC|3.778|2.105|1.345|0.971|0.795|3.944
      AGK|3.778|2.105/2.118|1.458|1.034|0.838|3.389
      ASD|3.300|1.944|1.308|1.091|0.717|3.158
      ATA|3.778|2.105|1.345|0.971|0.795|3.684
      ATB|3.778|2.105/2.118|1.345|0.971|0.795|3.684
      AYH|3.778|2.118|1.429|0.971|0.837|3.944
      AYK|3.778|2.118|1.429|1.029|0.838|3.684
      AYL|3.778|2.118|1.429|1.029|0.838|3.684
      AYM|3.778|2.118|1.345|0.971|0.756|3.944
      AYN|3.778|2.105/2.118|1.345|0.971|0.756|3.684
      CAT|3.778|2.118|1.345|0.917|0.717|3.944
      CAW|3.778|2.105/2.118|1.458|1.034|0.838|3.647
      CBA|3.778|2.105/2.118|1.360|0.967|0.769|3.647
      CCM|3.300|1.944|1.308|1.034|0.838|3.389
      CDA|3.300|1.944|1.308|1.029|0.837|3.684
      CDM|3.300|1.944|1.308|1.034|0.838|3.647
      CES|3.778|2.118|1.429|1.029|0.838|3.684
      CEW|3.778|2.118|1.429|0.971|0.837|3.944
      CEX|3.778|2.118|1.345|0.971|0.756|3.944
      CEY|3.778|2.118|1.345|0.917|0.717|3.944
      CGN|3.300|1.944|1.308|1.029|0.837|3.684
      CGP|3.778|2.105/2.118|1.360|0.967|0.769|3.647
      CGX|3.778|2.118|1.458|0.971|0.837|3.944
      CGY|3.778|2.105/2.118|1.458|1.029|0.837|3.684
      CHA|3.778|2.118|1.360|0.917|0.717|3.944
      CHN|3.300|1.944|1.308|1.034|0.838|3.389
      CHU|3.778|2.118|1.360|0.971|0.756|3.158
      CJA|3.778|2.118|1.458|1.029|0.837|4.235
      CMZ|3.778|2.118|1.458|1.029|0.837|3.684
      CNA2|3.778|2.118|1.360|1.029|0.717|3.684
      CNL|3.778|2.118|1.458|1.029|0.837|3.684
      CRU|3.300|1.944|1.308|0.971|0.756|4.235
      CTM|3.778|2.118|1.458|1.029|0.837|3.684
      CTN|3.778|2.118|1.360|1.029|0.755|3.158
      CYP|3.778|2.063|1.348|0.967|0.967|3.158
      DPA|3.300|1.944|1.308|1.029|0.837|3.684
      DQY|3.778|2.118|1.360|0.971|0.755|3.389
      DZC|3.625|2.071|1.474|1.038|0.844|3.389
      DZQ|3.778|2.118|1.360|1.029|0.838|4.235
      EBJ|3.778|2.118|1.360|1.029|0.838|4.235
      EBQ|3.300|1.944|1.308|1.029|0.838|3.937
      EGC|3.300|1.944|1.308|1.029|0.838|3.944
      EGD|3.300|1.944|1.308|1.029|0.838|3.937
      EGF|3.625|2.071|1.474|1.038|0.844|3.389
      ELG|3.300|1.944|1.308|1.029|0.838|3.937
      EMT|3.300|1.944|1.308|1.029|0.838|3.937

    17. Member REPOMAN's Avatar
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      02-28-2013 11:11 PM #17
      Dyno tuning tips.

      1. Tuning EFI Systems on a Chassis Dyno

      Sometimes when you are tuning an engine that is already in a vehicle on a chassis dyno, a lot of strange things can happen that you should be aware of.

      First of all, it is important to keep a perspective on all the things that are happening. It can be very difficult to keep track of engine temperature, manifold pressure, air/fuel ratios, engine torque and horsepower readings all at the same time. It will take some practice to get comfortable with all of this while the wheels are spinning.

      Try to pay attention to things like traction of the tires on the rollers. Many cars that produce big power can easily overpower the amount of tire adhesion to the roller, and this will dramatically affect the amount of power the dyno records. If you aren't applying all the power to the roller, it can't tell how much power you are making. On a dyno chart, this can normally be seen as an abnormal spike in engine speed and a corresponding drop in power and torque readings.

      It is also important to remember that if you are recording Air/Fuel ratios with anything but the most high-speed exhaust analyzers that it is very common to get false readings when the engine accelerates too quickly. This happens because the engine speed changes so rapidly that the exhaust meter cannot update its sampling rate quick enough. By the time it processes a sample and displays it, the engine can be well beyond that operating range and be dangerously lean, or grossly over fueled. This makes it nearly impossible to record data and make accurate changes to the calibration.

      Soft compound racing slicks and/or too little tire pressure can cause the tire to deform on the roller and actually decrease surface contact! Use a good radial street compound tire and strap the vehicle down tightly against the rollers.

      2. Tuning Ignition Timing Tables

      Whether you are tuning an engine on an engine dyno or a chassis dyno, you should always make sure that it gets tuned to the proper amount of ignition timing.

      The best way to do this is to use a steady state holding pattern on the dyno and hold the engine to a specific RPM. Then load the engine to whatever site you wish to tune and record the instantaneous power readings.

      When you make a change to add or subtract ignition timing, you will normally see a corresponding change in power output.

      Using an onboard or aftermarket Knock sensor to check for detonation is the easiest way to find the maximum allowable ignition advance. However, if you do not have access to one, here is another way to get pretty close.

      Advance the timing until maximum power is reached and begins to fall off when more timing is added. From there, back off the ignition advance one or two degrees and set it there.

      Once you have made a few hard pulls on the engine at this setting, shut it off and remove the spark plugs. Inspect them for obvious signs of detonation or erosion. Pay careful attention to the J-shaped ground strap. You will notice that somewhere on the strap it begins to change color.

      Ideally, when the proper timing is set, there will be enough heat in the combustion chamber to make the color change at about the center of the strap. If it changes more out towards the end of the strap, then there is not enough heat, and more advance is needed. Conversely, if the color change is near the bottom where the strap joins the plug, then take some ignition advance out in order to start the burn later and transfer more heat out the exhaust!

      3. Using Ignition Timing to Stabilize Idle

      When tuning a small displacement engine with very large injectors, you may have trouble establishing a good solid idle. This occurs because some ECUs do not have the injector driver strength to open and close these injectors for a short enough period of time and remain consistent enough to control the fuel.

      Other than using a better quality fuel injection computer than what you already have, (assuming you've already purchased one), there are a few tricks to help you along.

      First, always make sure that your ECU is getting full battery voltage, if not more from the alternator. The ECU will have a much harder time staying consistent if the supply voltage is not up to par.

      Second, use a little more ignition advance at idle than normal to help the engine produce slightly more torque and keep itself running a little better.

      Lastly, try lowering the base fuel pressure just slightly to take the pressure off of the magnet coil inside of it. The less pressure it has to open the valve against, the easier time the injector driver will have when trying to open it. You don't want to go down too low though, or poor fuel atomization can occur and make the poor idle situation even worse!

      I have found that some of the better brand ECUs such as Motec, Autronic, and EFI Technology have very little problems controlling very large injectors on even the smallest engines. If you are looking at purchasing a fuel injection system for your project and idle quality is a concern, these might be good systems to look into. It is often beneficial to look at all the pros and cons of owning a particular brand of fuel injection system other than initial cost alone.

      4. Using Oxygen Sensors

      Tuning a modern fuel injected engine is nearly impossible without the use of an oxygen sensor. There are a few points to consider when finding a suitable place to mount the sensor in the exhaust manifold.

      First, always try to mount the sensor so that it collects mixture data from as many cylinders as possible. Try to avoid having the sensor only get one cylinder's exhaust whenever possible. On an with the cylinders laid out in a V configuration such as a V6 or V8 it is most desirable to place the sensor in the exhaust collector where at least half the cylinders come together.

      On a small four-cylinder engine using a turbocharger, it is common to place the sensor just before the inlet of the turbo. This a good place to collect exhaust mixture information, however it is possible to overheat the sensor in this location. Most exhaust gas oxygen sensors can withstand up to about 800 degrees Celsius, but at times a turbocharged engine can easily exceed these temperatures.

      Also be sure that there are no openings or cracks in the exhaust system ahead of the oxygen sensor. This can introduce fresh air into the exhaust stream and cause the air/fuel ratios to seem leaner than they are.

      Lastly, some modern cars are now using air injection pumps to introduce fresh air into the exhaust stream in order to reduce exhaust emissions. This fresh air can also easily fool the oxygen sensor into thinking the engine's actual air/fuel ratio is leaner than it really is. Be sure to disable any such devices before you begin your tuning.

      Always protect your sensor from chemicals such as sealants, and remember that using leaded fuel will drastically shorten the life of your sensor.

      5. Back to the Basics

      When I was young and just starting out tuning engines an old man said to me "ninety percent of all your carburetor problems will be found in the distributor". At the time, I thought he was just a kooky old man. After years of tuning, my own experience seems to have proven him right. Many tuning issues with both carburetors, and modern fuel injection systems are mistakenly blamed on the fuel system.

      One thing to watch out for when tuning an engine using a modern fuel injection system is false information from an oxygen sensor when an engine misfires.

      When an ignition event fails to happen, or the engine "misfires", the oxygen sensor will want to read a leaner mixture than what really exists. This is due to the fact that the oxygen sensor can only read burned hydrocarbons. When the engine misfires, the unburned fuel doesn't get recognized by the sensor, so it seems that there is a large excess of oxygen in the exhaust system.

      Many novice tuners immediately begin to add fuel to the base fuel tables in an attempt to correct a lean mixture induced misfire. Not only does this usually not correct the problem, it often serves to make matters worse. Having too much fuel can also induce a misfire.

      Always be sure that the ignition system is in good working order. Visually inspect spark plug gaps and set them according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Also check that the spark plug wires are not burned or melted by the hot exhaust manifolds and check them for signs of wear.

      It's also a good idea to check all the power and ground supply wires to the ignition system and the high voltage leads to the ignition coils.

      I have found that going back to the basics and thoroughly inspecting the ignition system will almost always rectify the problem!

      !
      500HP 1990 Cowrado
      Have a great Orwellian Day
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GKS...80UVORSMiYMNQg

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