Time to sell her. Build thread and some pics here: http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?t=34762
I have worked my ass off on this car, and I just don't think I can do it anymore. I would much rather someone else had the car who can devote more attention to it than I am capable of, I just have too much going on and too many other projects.
This is an early 90 CQ, so it has the rear swaybar, cast control arms, and bag-o-snakes. Previous owner installed a Stebro exhaust, and the cat is gutted. It also has the cold weather package.
Here is a VERY long list of what I have done to the car, I am sure I am missing some things:
Replaced trans with Audi 90 "long box" 01A, Redline fluid
Southbend Stage 1 clutch, with 034 forged flywheel bolts, all new hardware.
New throw out bearing
New Clutch slave cylinder
034 "Street density" engine and trans mounts
034 01A short shifter
Full timing belt with all new hardware
New waterpump, new thermostat, full coolant flush with HEPU G12 and Redline Water Wetter additive
New rear main seal set
Intake manifold gasket
Valve cover gasket
Various vac lines replaced
re-o-ringed the AC system
Gutted cat, I think Tom installed the 2.5" Stebro IIRC... I installed a better adapter pipe from cat to Stebro.
034 Injector upgrade kit with resistor delete
That was all done last summer. Since then, these are things I have tackled this summer:
New outside temp sensor
New Drivers side door seal
New blower motor for HVAC
Repaired a 4 foot section of the pressure side of the hard fuel line under the car with flare fittings and used good expensive line
New washer pump
Lubed/conditioned both front window regulators
Replaced the electro/pneumatic heater valve
Replaced both corner marker sockets with new ones that werent broken.
New headlight/turnsignal/cruise control stalk (new OEM, like $100 from International Parts)
Replaced the drivers side fog light, the wiring still needs fixed though.
And some extras that will come with the car:
B4 hood that still needs final finishing and paint. It was pretty dented up, I did a good job of banging the dents out and filling them, I was going to paint it satin black for now until I re-sprayed the whole car. I have a nice B4 grille too.
I also have all three upper core supports for the B4 hood, the center being a brand new piece, and a new latch catch assembly. I also went the extra mile and looked up all of the front end hardware that the B4 cars use on ETKA, and bought all new stuff, so all of the screws, bolts, clips, etc.. are brand new in bags. It's like $100 in just hardware.
A brand new set of Depo B4 Euro headlights with city bulbs, and I also grabbed the unobtanium B4 headlight connectors with pigtails. I also have the two trim pieces that go under the B4 headlights, and the hardware to attach them is new as well.
I had a set of clear corners, but one fell out so it is currently running one clear corner and one amber. It fell out because the B3 headlights are shot basically. The clear corners are cheap though.
-Basically the whole B4 hood swap is ready to install once the hood has been "prettied up" enough. I hate bodywork with a passion but I am pretty good at it, it's just finding the motivation to actually do the work. It took me almost a year just to gather up all of this stuff.
I have an 01E 6-speed transmission from a S4 2.7TT "in a box" that I picked up for cheap. It's in pieces, and I did not inventory everything to see what is there and what isn't. I have a spare 7A flywheel to use with it too.
I have a spare 7A intake manifold, the idea was to cut it up and re-weld it to make a forward-facing drivers side manifold for turbo swapping.
I have a spare rear licence plate tub that is in much better shape than the one that is on the car. The idea was to do a carbon-fiber look to the inner panel where the license plate goes.
The drivers side kick-panel under the dash is off the car but I do have it. I forgot to order the hardware to re-attach it when I got all of the other hardware. I also have the belly pan under the car but no hardware to re-attach as well.
The original cluster is currently off of the car and will come with it. I think Tom got a spare cluster and swapped it to fix the Tach issue but it didn't fix it. The cluster that is currently in the car says 250,000 miles when the stock cluster is 160,000 something. I think I have put 15,000 miles on the car since I have owned it. It is fun to watch people's reactions when they think the car has 250k on it though.
The Fondmetal 17" wheels and 8mm spacers made by Adaptec will come with the car along with the longer taper wheel bolts. The tires are "meh" condition and are 215/45/17 size. I want to run 225/45/17. A couple of the wheels do have small dents on the inner lip- I did my best to bang them out with a block of wood, a blunt chisel, and a hammer. It was good enough that the guys at Firestone did not notice when they balanced them. (and usually they are nazis about not balancing a bent wheel) My goal was to take them off for the winter, have them straightened and re-finished since I like them a lot now and get new tires for next summer. The OEM Speedlines have been re-finished and are sporting General Altimac snow tires in a 195/65/15 that have PLENTY of life left, probably three more more winters at least- they will come with the car along with the stock wheel bolts for them as well.
A set of Powerflex control arm bushings will come with the car, I attempted to install but gave up as I could not get the control arm bolts out.
Set of OEM Boge rear shocks, new in box
Set of rear suspension bushings, OEM quality.
And last but not least, the car will come with the Bentley manual that includes the electronic troubleshooting manual. That's like a 2 million dollar value right there.
I also have a journal of the previous-previous owner, that documents everything he did to it. I have added to it as well, but not quite as thoroughly.
And now for the issues, all old cars have them...
The biggest issue is the headlights. The low-beams stopped working suddenly. That's why I bought a new headlight stalk. That didn't fix the issue. I was pin-testing them and if I manually jumpered the power wire to the low-beam wire, they came on. So it's not a fuse or relay issue. I also tested the new headlight switch and it is operating the way it should. I don't have any idea what is going on with that. The high-beams work fine, and thankfully, the B3 headlights suck so bad, that nobody knows I am running around with high beams on so I am not blinding people when I need lights. I got so frustrated that I have not looked into it any further.
There is the vibration issue from the worn out front control arm bushings that I attempted to replace as well as it probably needs an alignment.
Crack in the windshield, I can put you in touch with someone local to Columbus that has a NOS windshield for the CQ that I was going to snatch up when It came time to re-spray the car.
The heated seat relay needs replaced, it makes funny "sproing" noises when you use the heated seats- eventually the seat heaters stop working if they have been on for a while.
The AC still doesn't work, but I got to the bottom of the issue after running through the whole Bentley section on testing the climatronic and replacing the outside temp sensor. The AC compressor will run if you jumper the low pressure switch- I was unsuccessful in charging the system with refrigerant- I don't have the proper tools for it. The rest of the Climatronic works perfectly.
Tach doesn't work still. I have done one of two tests that the Bentley says to check. Checking voltage on one of the ecu pins while running, the voltage was not in range. The 2nd part of the test was testing a pin on the back of the cluster while the car was running- I didn't get that far. That determines that it's either the ecu or the cluster. (or the wiring that goes from the ecu to the cluster) My guess is the ecu since the cluster has already been swapped. I tested the impulse sender a while ago and it's good.
The passenger side window regulator stopped working. It happened one other time and I fixed it, but it broke again. The cables are too loose and they come off of the wheel. I have not dug back into it to fix it again since it's not "windows down" weather anymore. Nothing is broken in the regulator, the cables are just too loose and slack up too much when the window goes down.
There is a lifter tick that comes and goes. Typical.
Other than that, everything works! Car runs great, and is very reliable- I drive it 100 miles every day on my commute, and I average 27 MPG per tank, usually see 29-34 MPG on the highway during steady cruise. I took it on two road trips since I have had it, once to New Jersey and once to Baltimore, it was flawless both trips. I do oil changes at 5k intervals with Mobil 1 15-50 in the summer, 10-30 in the winter. Still have to do it through the dipstick though, I never did get that oil pan bolt free. :frustrated:
Not in a huge rush to sell it, but my Wife and I are really trying to move and I have too many car projects already, and working on this car has become a chore rather than a hobby.
Asking $4500 OBO. Thanks for looking!