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Thread: mk4 12v changeover valve (aka intake shift rod) delete

  1. 10-11-2011 04:07 PM #1
    i searched and found a few people who said they deleted it but didnt really say how or what they used to replace it or what they used to fill the hole. I am N/A but i saw a few posts where people said they they didnt notice a drop in TQ or anything so i wanted to try it out. bushings just dont work anymore...

  2. Member sgentile787's Avatar
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    10-12-2011 09:30 AM #2
    I am in the same boat, rattles real bad, even after upgraded bushings..

  3. Moderator EPilot's Avatar
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    10-12-2011 09:43 AM #3
    I still don't understand why some aftermarket company hasn't made a hybrid composite/aluminum intake manifold for the MKIV. I had the same issue with my VR6 and if it continues to rattle even after the Gruvenparts bushings you need a new manifold. Which sucks. VW should have recalled that intake and it's crappy designed bushings.

  4. 10-12-2011 03:48 PM #4
    Quote Originally Posted by EPilot View Post
    I still don't understand why some aftermarket company hasn't made a hybrid composite/aluminum intake manifold for the MKIV. I had the same issue with my VR6 and if it continues to rattle even after the Gruvenparts bushings you need a new manifold. Which sucks. VW should have recalled that intake and it's crappy designed bushings.

    Because noone is going to pay $2000 for a manifold that is the same basic principle as stock, minus wear issues.
    Quote Originally Posted by root beer View Post
    Are you from New Jersey, or did you just get the paint job in New Jersey?

  5. Moderator EPilot's Avatar
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    10-12-2011 05:11 PM #5
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnStamos View Post
    Because noone is going to pay $2000 for a manifold that is the same basic principle as stock, minus wear issues.
    But it does work so still don't understand your reasoning.

  6. Member 12veeRsix's Avatar
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    10-12-2011 05:40 PM #6
    People use pvc pipe to close it up. I've thought about trying to somehow sleeve the spare one I've got laying around. I figure if you can get a hold of some very thin steel, you may be able to slide it in the manifold an maybe epoxy it in place? Still haven't figured out how I'm going to do it

  7. 10-12-2011 05:42 PM #7
    Quote Originally Posted by EPilot View Post
    But it does work so still don't understand your reasoning.

    It would be wind up being $2000 for a manifold, that does the exact same thing as the stock one...

    No company is going to pay the costs for R&D, molds, tooling costs, ect, to manufacture a part that MAYBE 5 people will buy, causing the company to lose a TON of money.

    Spending $2000 on a manifold that is the same as stock, for a $5000 car, isn't a investment that makes sense.
    Quote Originally Posted by root beer View Post
    Are you from New Jersey, or did you just get the paint job in New Jersey?

  8. 10-12-2011 08:55 PM #8
    Quote Originally Posted by 12veeRsix View Post
    People use pvc pipe to close it up. I've thought about trying to somehow sleeve the spare one I've got laying around. I figure if you can get a hold of some very thin steel, you may be able to slide it in the manifold an maybe epoxy it in place? Still haven't figured out how I'm going to do it
    can you elaborate?

    i asume you mean using a pvc pipe thats the same size as the hole that needs to be covered once the change over valve is removed? anyone know the size?

  9. Moderator EPilot's Avatar
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    10-12-2011 11:25 PM #9
    Quote Originally Posted by 12veeRsix View Post
    People use pvc pipe to close it up. I've thought about trying to somehow sleeve the spare one I've got laying around. I figure if you can get a hold of some very thin steel, you may be able to slide it in the manifold an maybe epoxy it in place? Still haven't figured out how I'm going to do it
    What if you were to create an all in one changeover valve and bushing that fits in the same space as the old one. Create an aluminum tube with an aluminum changeover valve using proper bearings that fits with the same specs as the old one. And if it's sandwiched by the end plates there would be some close tolerance and no rattle.

  10. Member 12veeRsix's Avatar
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    10-13-2011 07:19 AM #10
    That's an interesting idea, I guess my only concern is using aluminum on aluminum -- it's bound to wear down. I was thinking that if I sleeved it with steel, it would be harder than the teflon bushings, and therefore I would only ever have to worry about replacing bushings when getting worn.

  11. Moderator EPilot's Avatar
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    10-13-2011 09:57 AM #11
    Quote Originally Posted by 12veeRsix View Post
    That's an interesting idea, I guess my only concern is using aluminum on aluminum -- it's bound to wear down. I was thinking that if I sleeved it with steel, it would be harder than the teflon bushings, and therefore I would only ever have to worry about replacing bushings when getting worn.
    I was thinking more along the lines that instead of bushing that the shift rod turns on it would be actual sealed bearings. and the aluminum shifter rod would be in a steel or aluminum sleeve so there would be no wear parts. No bushings to replace at all.

    In thinking about this I'm making it too complicated. Why couldn't someone just cnc a new aluminum shifter rod with provisions for a sealed bearing at either end like that's indicated here.


    And then where this yellow arrow is pointed the sealed bearing could fit where that existing seal is.

    They are the same size seals on either end of the shifter rod.
    The aluminum shifter rod would be stiff enough to be supported just by those two bearings at either end. It would cut out any wear to the manifold because the bearings would be supported buy a cheaper end cap on the passenger side and the vacuum actuator on the driver side.
    I think this would be an simple and cheaper fix. Instead of recreating a whole new hybrid manifold. Could be something for Gruven Parts, or 42 Draft to work out.

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    10-13-2011 11:38 PM #12
    i dont remember which cuz its been awhile but ive seen NA cars on the dyno and have lost either 10wtq or 10whp when the valve wasnt working
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  13. Member Light on Fuel's Avatar
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    10-14-2011 01:41 PM #13
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnStamos View Post
    Because noone is going to pay $2000 for a manifold that is the same basic principle as stock, minus wear issues.
    ^ Exactly.

  14. Member redskins1fan's Avatar
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    10-14-2011 03:02 PM #14
    my wifes car has the same problem,ive been thinking about swaping in a mk3 intake manifold,and be done with it...i know their was a DIY on it,but can't seem to find it now...................

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    10-14-2011 03:21 PM #15
    Quote Originally Posted by redskins1fan View Post
    my wifes car has the same problem,ive been thinking about swaping in a mk3 intake manifold,and be done with it...i know their was a DIY on it,but can't seem to find it now...................
    Here's the link to that DIY:

    www.areyouf'ingkidding.com

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    10-14-2011 09:57 PM #16
    Ha ha at the post above

    <--------- this guy loves it
    ***from my vortex observations I have come to the conclusion that post count has no direct effect on automotive knowledge, or even common sense for that matter***

  17. Member vr6pilot's Avatar
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    10-21-2011 11:37 PM #17
    OP will be unhappy
    Keurig...because landfill.

  18. Banned euro.lo's Avatar
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    10-24-2011 11:19 AM #18
    This idea should be pitched to gruvenparts they are usually pretty friendly to try new ideas.

    sent from my igloo

  19. Member 12veeRsix's Avatar
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    10-24-2011 05:58 PM #19
    I've talked to them about it and they've basically said that it'd be to expensive to market.

  20. Junior Member JeffJr91's Avatar
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    06-12-2012 09:30 AM #20
    I got my shift rod and bushings replaced when I got my valve cover gasket replaced. Not a sound
    l 717 ALL DAY l VR6 l

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