I am in the same boat, rattles real bad, even after upgraded bushings..
i searched and found a few people who said they deleted it but didnt really say how or what they used to replace it or what they used to fill the hole. I am N/A but i saw a few posts where people said they they didnt notice a drop in TQ or anything so i wanted to try it out. bushings just dont work anymore...
I still don't understand why some aftermarket company hasn't made a hybrid composite/aluminum intake manifold for the MKIV. I had the same issue with my VR6 and if it continues to rattle even after the Gruvenparts bushings you need a new manifold. Which sucks. VW should have recalled that intake and it's crappy designed bushings.
People use pvc pipe to close it up. I've thought about trying to somehow sleeve the spare one I've got laying around. I figure if you can get a hold of some very thin steel, you may be able to slide it in the manifold an maybe epoxy it in place? Still haven't figured out how I'm going to do it
It would be wind up being $2000 for a manifold, that does the exact same thing as the stock one...
No company is going to pay the costs for R&D, molds, tooling costs, ect, to manufacture a part that MAYBE 5 people will buy, causing the company to lose a TON of money.
Spending $2000 on a manifold that is the same as stock, for a $5000 car, isn't a investment that makes sense.
That's an interesting idea, I guess my only concern is using aluminum on aluminum -- it's bound to wear down. I was thinking that if I sleeved it with steel, it would be harder than the teflon bushings, and therefore I would only ever have to worry about replacing bushings when getting worn.
In thinking about this I'm making it too complicated. Why couldn't someone just cnc a new aluminum shifter rod with provisions for a sealed bearing at either end like that's indicated here.
And then where this yellow arrow is pointed the sealed bearing could fit where that existing seal is.
They are the same size seals on either end of the shifter rod.
The aluminum shifter rod would be stiff enough to be supported just by those two bearings at either end. It would cut out any wear to the manifold because the bearings would be supported buy a cheaper end cap on the passenger side and the vacuum actuator on the driver side.
I think this would be an simple and cheaper fix. Instead of recreating a whole new hybrid manifold. Could be something for Gruven Parts, or 42 Draft to work out.
i dont remember which cuz its been awhile but ive seen NA cars on the dyno and have lost either 10wtq or 10whp when the valve wasnt working
***from my vortex observations I have come to the conclusion that post count has no direct effect on automotive knowledge, or even common sense for that matter***