hmm yeh VR's are nice, sexy sound
Im thinking of building an obd1 head with 50 thousandths shaved off and this cam http://techtonicstuning.com/main/ind...oducts_id=1766
I bought one of those 276 boost cams. It's in the mail. It should be here soon, it'll be installed on my OBD1 euro head that's shaved 040" and it has a 3 angle valve job. I'll be adding oversized valves, too.
BBM lysholm =
Getting kind of off topic - if you'd like to keep chatting, we can take it to PM's.
The thing with these heads, well, any head really, is that it takes a person with years of experience to visually know when enough is enough. It's not all about removing as much material as possible; you have to take into consideration cam profile (valve timing and lift figures) and valve size. In other words, velocity.
But for the most part, the gains most noticeable are done at the bowl/seat and the cut blend of the valves. That's something 90% of the people cannot do effectively.
But watching some YouTube vids on port wall clean-up and port matching to the intake is beneficial. Anyone with a good grinder can do that.
I heard that the only way to port a head is to straight up cast it from the fires of Mordor!
I think most of us can find some basic theory on google.
There are plenty of obvious improvements that can be made here. The ~5 heads i've done have all made totally decent power in relation to the vw performance benchmarks out there.
I totally emptied my current aba head, i just got ugly with it for a little bit of fun honestly. Considering the fact that it's a nitrous build in a light car, i was pretty aggressive. If it doesn't work, i'm not going to be insulted either....i'll just know not to go with that kind of port shape again.
If things don't look even, they were less even when i started.
I'll try to see what it make with the 276, but what it's ported more for is the 298. If it makes good power, i'm probably going oversized on the exhaust, but stock, cut down intake valves.
You don't know unless you try. I just don't like my trials to come at a professional's rates, and I love playing with a grinder.
Last edited by root beer; 05-22-2012 at 12:29 PM.
How to build a relatively inexpensive, reliable, powerful VR6
I am ready, I am
I want to buy some 4x100 15" Pininfarinas. If you have one of the few sets i've seen, please let me know.
Good ol' Nitrous.. Blown up a few motors with laughing gas.
some one call?
Comments on the porting ... some things to remember air takes the shortest route, and doesn't like to change direction. So those areas need the most work.
My BBM kit is coming tomorrow, along with the rest of my packages.
Bump for the forum's sake, guys. I'll be making some 0-60 and 0-100 pulls using my daily before FI and after, too. Friend just bought a farm with a near 1/2 mile long driveway.
C2 issues seem to be pretty well fixed.
Bump for the forum.
Looking into adding a SRI section. Maybe a feedback section?
Say, if you have a C2 chip, or a eurosport intake. You can give your feedback on the item, and I can add it to a list. Something like
Eurosport intake , , ,
Something like that.
Yeah I have the 94 golf im pretty sure its obd 1 also so which chip is thatbthe 270, n damm I had another question but I keep blanking n idk if anyone had a problem with their speedometer not working mine seems to work 2% of t he time usally if I go over a bump it will stop working or just wont start at all, n I have some kind of sound like keys jingling in the back left side I cant figure out what it is
The 270* Autotech cam is a very nice piece. Good power, good idle. For OBD1, you don't need HD valve springs. Just remember you'll need to change the lifters, (~80 dollars).
Sounds like your cluster is bad. Go get one from a 93-98 Jetta/Golf/Cabrio/GTI and swap it in. It's 6 screws total.
I know from experience that the USRT piece is very very nice.. I don't know if any other companies really make a "good" one. I don't want to bother adding a place that says "buy a generic DIY intake manifold" because it's definitely more involved than the average person can do, and there is science behind it. I wouldn't run a home made SRI, unless I built it and made it from R to D.
It's not hard to do... if you can make measurements and can weld, or have somebody weld for you it opens up a whole world. Screw paying $700 for something that I built for $300, and **** on it in terms of flow.
Colm, this thread shouldn't be carried with the attitude of "something your average person can't do and won't be included" kind of thread. Those kind of decisions should be left up to the people attempting such things. If they feel it's too much for them well then maybe it is, that's not to say it shouldn't be included among this resource bin for ambitious people who don't want to puss(y) foot around and actually want to make power.
I'll try to look into some DIY kits. I know BBM sells one, and I'm sure ebay does too. Using the stock lower intake manifold/fuel rail makes things a bit easier if possible.. I suppose it wouldn't be too hard.
I just think they can go wrong easily and you can starve cylinders if you don't know what you're doing, you know? It's like playing with fire.
the mk4 lower manifold is smaller at the head than it is at the union of upper and lower creating a venturi effect
thus making it a better place to start a diy sri
just a thought
The HKK ones were like $400 or less with core when they were being made. I don't think they were that sophisticated of a design. The USRT ones were an improvement, but the same guy, Greg Haley from HKK/SVi Welding, was making them as far as I know. The latest USRT long runner ones are someone else I'm pretty sure. I don't remember whole story but I remember people having problems getting work and parts back from Greg. Schimmel makes them too. I don't know about for a 2.0, but money talks.