How to build a relatively inexpensive, reliable, 'powerful' 2.0 8v.

[Hurt]

I actually have a catback its 2.5 " piping no resenator thats why I was asking what my next step is

Well it depends on what you want from the car, what year it is, etc. If you've got a 93-95, you can get a 270* cam and a matching chip and the car will really wake up. If it's 96+, you'll need to upgrade valve springs if you want to use a cam with more than .432" of lift.. So you could get a 260* cam (432" lift) and a matching chip from TT, C2, GIAC, etc.

[vacuumnoise]

I just dealt with the issues for about 2 weeks, and low and behold, no more problems.

I have to install the revised chip (its in my glovebox), I'm still running on the OG stg2 chip....

btw what cam were you using for yr 136whp build??

[Hurt]

I have to install the revised chip (its in my glovebox), I'm still running on the OG stg2 chip....

btw what cam were you using for yr 136whp build??

It's a TT 276*, I could have made more power using the 288 or 298 but I do daily it.. So that was out of the picture. I've been paying more attention to my VR, lately, though..

[vacuumnoise]

hmm yeh VR's are nice, sexy sound

Im thinking of building an obd1 head with 50 thousandths shaved off and this cam http://techtonicstuning.com/main/ind...oducts_id=1766

[Hurt]

hmm yeh VR's are nice, sexy sound

Im thinking of building an obd1 head with 50 thousandths shaved off and this cam http://techtonicstuning.com/main/ind...oducts_id=1766

Yeah, VR6's sound awesome.. but only get 2/3 of the MPG of my 8v. More power, though, and I love the flat torque band. Pulls to the rev limiter like it's on a mission, bouncing off at around 7200! I only drive it because the 8v is in hiding right now, awaiting it's new parts.

I bought one of those 276 boost cams. It's in the mail. It should be here soon, it'll be installed on my OBD1 euro head that's shaved 040" and it has a 3 angle valve job. I'll be adding oversized valves, too.

BBM lysholm =

[vacuumnoise]

Yeah, VR6's sound awesome.. but only get 2/3 of the MPG of my 8v. More power, though, and I love the flat torque band. Pulls to the rev limiter like it's on a mission, bouncing off at around 7200! I only drive it because the 8v is in hiding right now, awaiting it's new parts.

I bought one of those 276 boost cams. It's in the mail. It should be here soon, it'll be installed on my OBD1 euro head that's shaved 040" and it has a 3 angle valve job. I'll be adding oversized valves, too.

BBM lysholm =

sick, but when you run that cam you'll already have the SC on? or will u run it then put the SC on?

[Hurt]

sick, but when you run that cam you'll already have the SC on? or will u run it then put the SC on?

It's all going in at once.

[vacuumnoise]

sick

[Hurt]

sick

This weekend it should be done, if my packages come. With the 6 speed this car will be a rocket. I'll need wider tires, though. I currently have 175/50/15's on a 15x7 rim (Konig candy) for the summer season. I'm going to raise the car 1.0" F and 1.5" R, and get a set of new rims for the 225/45/15 Toyo R1R high performance rubber I have sitting in the garage. Hopefully the rubbing isn't too bad.

Getting kind of off topic - if you'd like to keep chatting, we can take it to PM's.

[AJmustDIE]

**** it I think somebody should cover head porting, as it is single handedly WHERE the power is to be gained from on these 8v's.

[Hurt]

**** it I think somebody should cover head porting, as it is single handedly WHERE the power is to be gained from on these 8v's.

We'd need a machinist to do it and go over the whole thing. It's too complicated for the average DIYer, and hogging out your head will likely result in decreased power unless you REALLY know what you're doing.

[AJmustDIE]

Paging root beer.

[911_fan]

Paging NY_fam.

FTFY

(no offense, Tim)




€

[AJmustDIE]

I wasn't singling out Tim as the most knowledgeable person on the subject, rather bring him in to show that anybody with a decent amount of sense, proper tooling and knows when to stop can do it.

[911_fan]

The thing with these heads, well, any head really, is that it takes a person with years of experience to visually know when enough is enough. It's not all about removing as much material as possible; you have to take into consideration cam profile (valve timing and lift figures) and valve size. In other words, velocity.

But for the most part, the gains most noticeable are done at the bowl/seat and the cut blend of the valves. That's something 90% of the people cannot do effectively.

But watching some YouTube vids on port wall clean-up and port matching to the intake is beneficial. Anyone with a good grinder can do that.


€

[root beer]

I heard that the only way to port a head is to straight up cast it from the fires of Mordor!

I think most of us can find some basic theory on google.

There are plenty of obvious improvements that can be made here. The ~5 heads i've done have all made totally decent power in relation to the vw performance benchmarks out there.

I totally emptied my current aba head, i just got ugly with it for a little bit of fun honestly. Considering the fact that it's a nitrous build in a light car, i was pretty aggressive. If it doesn't work, i'm not going to be insulted either....i'll just know not to go with that kind of port shape again.

If things don't look even, they were less even when i started.




I'll try to see what it make with the 276, but what it's ported more for is the 298. If it makes good power, i'm probably going oversized on the exhaust, but stock, cut down intake valves.

You don't know unless you try. I just don't like my trials to come at a professional's rates, and I love playing with a grinder.

[AJmustDIE]

Plus that's a nitrous port if I ever seen one!

[Hurt]

Good ol' Nitrous.. Blown up a few motors with laughing gas.

[ny_fam]

some one call?

Comments on the porting ... some things to remember air takes the shortest route, and doesn't like to change direction. So those areas need the most work.

[Hurt]

My BBM kit is coming tomorrow, along with the rest of my packages.

Bump for the forum's sake, guys. I'll be making some 0-60 and 0-100 pulls using my daily before FI and after, too. Friend just bought a farm with a near 1/2 mile long driveway.

[vacuumnoise]

My BBM kit is coming tomorrow, along with the rest of my packages.

Bump for the forum's sake, guys. I'll be making some 0-60 and 0-100 pulls using my daily before FI and after, too. Friend just bought a farm with a near 1/2 mile long driveway.

[Hurt]

C2 issues seem to be pretty well fixed.

[Hurt]

Bump for the forum.

[AJmustDIE]

Bump for picturing of new whining goodness.

[Hurt]

Looking into adding a SRI section. Maybe a feedback section?

Say, if you have a C2 chip, or a eurosport intake. You can give your feedback on the item, and I can add it to a list. Something like

Eurosport intake , , ,

Neuspeed intake

Something like that.

[AJmustDIE]

For the SRI section, you could list all known premade units and then list Ross Machine Racing's site for the DIY guys.

[Hurt]

For the SRI section, you could list all known premade units and then list Ross Machine Racing's site for the DIY guys.

Yeah, I'm trying to find more info on the HKK one. The USRT one is a very nice piece.

[stlgolf3]

Yeah I have the 94 golf im pretty sure its obd 1 also so which chip is thatbthe 270, n damm I had another question but I keep blanking n idk if anyone had a problem with their speedometer not working mine seems to work 2% of t he time usally if I go over a bump it will stop working or just wont start at all, n I have some kind of sound like keys jingling in the back left side I cant figure out what it is

[Hurt]

Yeah I have the 94 golf im pretty sure its obd 1 also so which chip is thatbthe 270, n damm I had another question but I keep blanking n idk if anyone had a problem with their speedometer not working mine seems to work 2% of t he time usally if I go over a bump it will stop working or just wont start at all, n I have some kind of sound like keys jingling in the back left side I cant figure out what it is

It's OBD1. You can get various different chips. TT sells one, GIAC does too. I'd go with TT. You just go online and order a chip that matches the number on the top of your ECU.

The 270* Autotech cam is a very nice piece. Good power, good idle. For OBD1, you don't need HD valve springs. Just remember you'll need to change the lifters, (~80 dollars).

Sounds like your cluster is bad. Go get one from a 93-98 Jetta/Golf/Cabrio/GTI and swap it in. It's 6 screws total.

[zero.]

Yeah, I'm trying to find more info on the HKK one. The USRT one is a very nice piece.

911_fan would know. He ran and dynoed both. I could be wrong, but I thought all the original USRT ones were made by HKK. Kind of custom pieces and not really production. He was taking stock lower manifolds as cores.

[Hurt]

911_fan would know. He ran and dynoed both. I could be wrong, but I thought all the original USRT ones were made by HKK. Kind of custom pieces and not really production. He was taking stock lower manifolds as cores.

Paging 911_fan!


I know from experience that the USRT piece is very very nice.. I don't know if any other companies really make a "good" one. I don't want to bother adding a place that says "buy a generic DIY intake manifold" because it's definitely more involved than the average person can do, and there is science behind it. I wouldn't run a home made SRI, unless I built it and made it from R to D.

[AJmustDIE]

It's not hard to do... if you can make measurements and can weld, or have somebody weld for you it opens up a whole world. Screw paying $700 for something that I built for $300, and **** on it in terms of flow.







Colm, this thread shouldn't be carried with the attitude of "something your average person can't do and won't be included" kind of thread. Those kind of decisions should be left up to the people attempting such things. If they feel it's too much for them well then maybe it is, that's not to say it shouldn't be included among this resource bin for ambitious people who don't want to puss(y) foot around and actually want to make power.

[Hurt]

It's not hard to do... if you can make measurements and can weld, or have somebody weld for you it opens up a whole world. Screw paying $700 for something that I built for $300, and **** on it in terms of flow.


Colm, this thread shouldn't be carried with the attitude of "something your average person can't do and won't be included" kind of thread. Those kind of decisions should be left up to the people attempting such things. If they feel it's too much for them well then maybe it is, that's not to say it shouldn't be included among this resource bin for ambitious people who don't want to puss(y) foot around and actually want to make power.

You're right.
I'll try to look into some DIY kits. I know BBM sells one, and I'm sure ebay does too. Using the stock lower intake manifold/fuel rail makes things a bit easier if possible.. I suppose it wouldn't be too hard.

I just think they can go wrong easily and you can starve cylinders if you don't know what you're doing, you know? It's like playing with fire.

[2.slowduo]

the mk4 lower manifold is smaller at the head than it is at the union of upper and lower creating a venturi effect

thus making it a better place to start a diy sri
just a thought

[zero.]

The HKK ones were like $400 or less with core when they were being made. I don't think they were that sophisticated of a design. The USRT ones were an improvement, but the same guy, Greg Haley from HKK/SVi Welding, was making them as far as I know. The latest USRT long runner ones are someone else I'm pretty sure. I don't remember whole story but I remember people having problems getting work and parts back from Greg. Schimmel makes them too. I don't know about for a 2.0, but money talks.