Pertaining to the Neuspeed gear....or any aluminum based gear....the main issue is that its aluminum. It may be great for weight, but isnt so great when it comes to durability over steel (oem material). Over time, the timing belt eats away at the gear teeth, making them very sharp. This, in turn, wears the timing belt material faster, making it more susceptible to failure. But being in the location it is, you can keep a close eye on it's wear. I fine toothed file can be used to smooth out any sharp edges. Also, with the Neuspeed gear specifically, the locking screw threads will strip with prolonged 'use'; So care is needed not to over-tighten the locking screws when tightening it.
To be honest, the whole premise of a 'light weight' cam gear is silly if you think a bout what it is attaching to...the camshaft. Have you ever tried to turn over a fully loaded cam assembly by hand before? You cant. Valve spring tension is too great. So what is the sense of a lighter cam gear? Nothing really. Techtonics has/had a product they sold with that was the stock outer gear/teeth, with the gear spokes and hub replaced with their own aluminum design. A few grams lighter than OEM, but with the strength and durability of the OEM gear cogs for belt tooth longevity.
And as for the functionality of the gear; Anything under 4* in either direction won't even register on the butt-dyno. For the most part, what you are doing is changing the valve open/closing event times. By advancing the gear, you are changing the events by 4* earlier. The effect this has is that low end torque is raised, and tapers down until peak hp, where it then continues to die off faster than the cam at 0*. The opposite occurs when you retard the timing. You lose a little bottom end, in which that gap decreases until peak hp, where after peak hp, your tq doesnt die off as fast as stock timing, and there is where you gain more hp on the top end. Depending your your mods depends on how much changes. On my old motor, I experianced about 5-7wtq difference adjusting it 4*. Not much of a change, now is it? This isnt a magical 'more horsepower' mod. Its more of a fine tuner tool to use in conjunction with whatever you have done to your motor and a dyno. There is no way to know what you did without looking real-time on a dyno and adjusting then.
For the most part, I always set my gear to 4* advanced. With my peak hp at 6900rpms, I was able to get a little more grunt below 4500rpms for around town driving (about 90% of my driving) and still maintained my 135whp peak hp. Sure, power died off faster after peak, but who cares? I rarely revved past 7200 with the 276* cam anyways (no need to). So unless you plan on driving like a d*ck around town every day and rev your motor out at ever sign, light, and intersection, run +4* cam timing.
Oh, and an adj cam gear on a stock cam is beyond pointless.
Any other questions?
Make sure you purchase the correct product. I believe your 2002 motor has the cam position sensor integrated in the gear itself. Might want to double check that......
I got mine nib in the classifieds brand new for $300, along with a full exhaust for $100.....I personally think they're some of the best headers available for these cars. It's definitely not ebay junk, and it doesn't have the bull**** tri-y merges that most have. Also, you can add a nice collector if you want.....that's where the power is made. I've heard some guys have made some really good power gains by going to a long collector(you can either go the summit racing route, or burns, vibrant) on these motors on a regular old pacesetter even. The fact that you can order a header with 1.75" primaries is just awesome.
My vr thread has schrick 268's in it....800 dollar cams. That doesn't mean you can't find them used for 3-400.
Tell people the best parts, they can figure out pricing.
Last edited by root beer; 12-04-2011 at 02:44 PM.
How to build a relatively inexpensive, reliable, powerful VR6
I am ready, I am
I want to buy some 4x100 15" Pininfarinas. If you have one of the few sets i've seen, please let me know.
276 TT cam with upgrraded lifters, followers, etc
Major port and polish
Custom SRI (to be installed within the next few weeks)
ECS lightweight Pulleys
Neuspeed adjustable cam gear (just ordered)
EGR/secondary air delete
Ported AEG exhaust manifold to custom 2.5" racepipe (soon to be replaced by supersprint header)
2.5" non catted, non resonated magnaflow exhaust
VF engineering motor mounts (all three)
United Motorsports Tune with Cam profile
Trying to think if I forgot anything else, If I cant get the numbers I want out of this cam I want to go to the 288 but I've never heard/seen anyone run one in a mk4 2.0. Any tips advice
I hope you did a 'stock' dyno. Setting a goal is great and all, but unless you have a base-line to compare too, its just an arbitrary number. Every dyno is different, and every dyno operator is just ass suspect. Just because you roll 140whp, doesnt mean squat unless you know what YOUR baseline was. What if, for instance, your baseline on the dyno you used was 100whp. You rolled 140whp...thats only a 40whp net. What if you rolled 88whp stock. Now its a 52whp net. What's more important? Saying you rolled 140whp or saying you gained 52whp over stock?
Not trying to be a Debbie Downer here, just trying to keep expectations in check. I am curious to see how all this motor work pans out on a MKIV and see it run CEL-free with the 276*. I'm not sure how well you would like a 288* in a MKIV. Between the weight of the car and the tall gear ratios of any MKIV-trans options, I don't think any top end gained would be worth the low-rpm loss. Unless you are just going for bragging rights and don't plan on driving the car as a daily driver.
Regardless, do as much as you can and keep it CEL-free. As long as that light is lit, you still have work to do....
Dont worry already did everything you said, baseline was 86 whp on a local mustang dyno...I was pretty embarrassed after seeing that but I knew I needed a number to work off of. And as far as the CEL, to my amazement( and the reason I will always be using Jeff at United Motorsports from now on) the CEL has not even come on once since the cam has been installed which was 2 months ago. Only real problem Im trying to overcome, as long as the dyno operator was running the dyno right, I seem to stop making power after 6600-6700 rpm.... which surprised me because with the P&P and big cam I was expecting it to keep making power up to the 7200 rpm fuel cut.
What do you guys think? Im in need of advice and I know some of you guys have alot of experience building aba's and such
Last edited by 02vwgolf; 12-05-2011 at 11:22 AM.
And I forgot to say It was daily driven for a month and a half after the cam was installed, but now I finally got an suv so she gets to stay in the garage while im up in school And as far as why im doing it, its the same reason why I did my 2.0t...just because all my friends make fun of me for "wasting" money on my 2.0 and dont think I can do it Its really just personal aspirations that drive my desire to do it, im the only person who drives it and I love every single one of those 8 valves
What was done to your head as far as 'work'? Was it flow benched after? What cam profile was it ported for? Were the velocity ramps ground out of your MKIV intake ports? What you had done to your head is going to play a MAJOR role in your torque curve. Then there is how the SRI was designed and what rpm the harmonic wave was designed to hit at. Then there is header design that effects your low and high end torque peaks. Lots of head variables here...all parts of the puzzle.
Stock 8v heads stop making torque after 4500rpms. Better flow just keeps it from dying as fast. Getting all the bolt-ons and headwork to work with each other is the key here.
This is my before/after dyno from 2008. Even with a 288*, my peak was between 6000-6500rpms. Still pulled past 7000rpms, but never shifted past 7200. Its at this point where you need to run a REALLY large cam to move the peak powerband up into the 7000+ range. And that's not daily-drivable. Or inexpensive!
-As for the flowbench, at the time the head was ported the flow bench was not working( got me a discount but doesnt help know how well it flows)
-I had given the cam to the machine shop when I dropped the head off so it was ported to run the 276, machine shop recommended bringing it back if I decided to go with a larger cam later down the road
-And to the best of my knowledge the velocity ramps were ground down, and a decent amount at that because when the shop was doing it they told my there were actually small air pockets inside some of the casting( which seems pretty terrible but its a mexican made head) which meant they had to grind more to get back to a metal surface
The shop I took it to, I have became somewhat friends with and based off what your saying it sounds like a may need to remove the head and take it back to get flow benched to have a real idea how well it is flowing.
And you seem to know a ton, have you had any experience porting obd2 throttle bodies because I have heard this can make a difference, but if too much is taken (which seems to be a fine line) it will kill the performance and tb's are pricey
What year did the MKIV switch to DBW?
Wont touch DBW throttles. They don't take to being ported. Like, at all.
I saw a thread over on the naturally aspirated forum a while back about the lack of provable gains from going with the TT over-sized valves in n/a ABA's... how do you feel about that because im thinking of if I have to that would be the last otpion
Too much to get into regarding that. Diameter increases doesnt take well to shrouding created by the bigger valves. Unshrounding drops compression and you only have some much real estate between the valve face and bore. Intake ports are only so big where you lose low end velocity. If anything, go with a bigger exhaust valve. Proper bowl work and blending, plus a righteous 3-angle grind is most beneficial. Also, back-cut valves increase flow rates. But Im not really one to comment on this as I don't have any experience with porting heads, or flow benching.
As for throttle options, go into the 1.8t forum and poke around for larger throttle options. There are a few threads that get into options that the guys utilize for BT options. But remember, make sure everything else is taken care of and that your throttle is the bottleneck. IOW, worry about that last.
ported polished OBDII german head, decked .002in surface
TT 35mm intake valves TT 42mm Intake valves
dual valve springs, Titiainum retainers, AEG lifters
TT 276 cam
BFI PEM stage 2
LW crank pulley
LW intermediate shaft gear
LW alternator pulley
42dd test pipe
TT 2.25 catback with borla muffler
made some good power and now its all for sale, gonna tripple what I made with the ABA now
MR Eurowerks air ride kits and bits OEM parts, Fender rolling,EuroImage,WCI
I didn't realize it was a MK4 you guys were talking about. The ABA I built for my coupe was from a mk3 (obviously), lol.
Updated some info. This thread is a MK3 ABA thread; that's why it's lacking info on the MK4 engines.
What capabilities do you have to read the air/fuel ratio? And how can you set it to what you want? This is what I'm finding as one of the keys to making good power and power where you want it.
Are these gauges the common way to tune? or are they just toys. Most of the posts I see the mention of a chip upgrade. It would seem these are blind upgrades unless you have a measured record of what the fuel is actually doing. I understand that you can use a PC to connect to the OBDI &II computers to read the air fuel ratio.
I know that with MegaSquirt you need to use a computer to read the air fuel ratio among other values to develop the tune. But the guys with MegaSquirt running are the only ones who talk about using the air fuel ratios in their tuning.
The box tunes are just the basic set ups tuned on, what I consider, every day mods. Cam, exhaust, intake. Ignition is sweetened up for the bigger cams, as well as the fueling. Technically, you shouldnt need a wideband for it. I consider a wide-band set-up (I used the AEM UEGO) a necessary mod for every built motor. Not just to see what your fueling is doing, but to also aid in diagnosing issues you encounter along the way. It can tell you O2 and MAF issues immediately. Another think i had was a vacuum gauge. Sounds silly, but it also aids in any potential issues you might encounter.